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Being the owner of two 80s Taiwanese machines (bandsaw and table saw) I can say the quality has gotten a lot better in recent years (but still not great). Mine are really poorly made but work (kind of the definition of a lot of Harbor Freight)
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 18:26 |
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# ? May 19, 2024 18:40 |
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Splizwarf posted:I try to explain the tool quality trickle-down by comparing it to processor grading. I wouldn't even say that. It's like Foxconn manufacturers Apple products and tons of other things. Apple products are built to Apple standards and specifications and everything else is built to other standards and specifications, which may differ vastly. And often time people and buildings/areas are dedicated to one client or another and may not really be shared. So the fact that they may be built by the same company or even in the same facility doesn't mean a whole lot.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 20:19 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:Did I state otherwise, Mr. Obvious? (Yes, I don't give a gently caress. There are two Chinas) Not autistic, just kidding.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 21:28 |
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Bragging time! Bought a last years model Hustler X-0NE 26HP/54' VR4 deck. Amazing mower. 11mph top speed. Already scratched it
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 22:25 |
the spyder posted:Already scratched it That's just part of the breaking-in process, it's like signing your name. Let me know once you've accidentally set it on fire.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 23:35 |
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the spyder posted:Amazing mower. 11mph top speed. I bet if you threw a jet kit on there, flowmaster, pod filters, maybe regeared it for top end, you could hit 15, 17 miles an hour easy.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 23:58 |
Hit the nos, yo.
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# ? Apr 6, 2014 00:16 |
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the spyder posted:Bragging time! Bought a last years model Hustler X-0NE 26HP/54' VR4 deck. Amazing mower. 11mph top speed. A Hayabusa engine could probably be wrestled in there. the spyder posted:Already scratched it Oh...
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# ? Apr 6, 2014 01:26 |
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Work is buying hearing protection and wanted to know if we had any favorites. Are the electronic noise dampening ones any good for shop work out just shooting sports? I kinda wanna go nuts and get electronic cutoff ones with Bluetooth to listen to music with too.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 06:37 |
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Not an Anthem posted:Work is buying hearing protection and wanted to know if we had any favorites. Are the electronic noise dampening ones any good for shop work out just shooting sports? I kinda wanna go nuts and get electronic cutoff ones with Bluetooth to listen to music with too. Howard Leight Max plugs are still the best in my opinion: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...ward+leight+max If you want headphones (subpar, get in the way, but I've got some too because they are handy in the right situation) I'm not sure who had bluetooth in a decent quality phone, but these work great and are cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...eight+bluetooth I just plug a cable in and stuck it through my shirt.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 15:17 |
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Motronic posted:Howard Leight Max plugs are still the best in my opinion: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...ward+leight+max Need good noise reduction from machining, air tools, other stuff so headset is a must. Beefy isn't bad.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 15:23 |
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Not an Anthem posted:Need good noise reduction from machining, air tools, other stuff so headset is a must. Do you consider plugs to not work as well as headsets? If so, are you sure you know how to install foam plugs? Many people don't.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 15:30 |
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Motronic posted:Howard Leight Max plugs are still the best in my opinion: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...ward+leight+max Those Howard Leight Max plugs are loving great, we use those in my lab. I prefer the corded version myself though. e. not to mention those headphones are going to lower noise by about 7.5 actual decibels, the earplugs are going to do 13. e2. http://www.coopersafety.com/noisere...ereduction.aspx has a good explanation about how those nrr ratings work, and depending on what you're doing you could always wear plugs and headphones. Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Apr 7, 2014 |
# ? Apr 7, 2014 16:43 |
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Motronic posted:Do you consider plugs to not work as well as headsets? If so, are you sure you know how to install foam plugs? Many people don't. Not sure what Not An Anthem's specific deal is, but in the shop I work in, if my hands are covered in grease then there's no way in hell I'm going to roll up a foamie and stuff it into my ear. A good headset that I can put on mid-job with filthy hands and then clean later beats the hell out of not using the plugs.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 17:00 |
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Splizwarf posted:Not sure what Not An Anthem's specific deal is, but in the shop I work in, if my hands are covered in grease then there's no way in hell I'm going to roll up a foamie and stuff it into my ear. A good headset that I can put on mid-job with filthy hands and then clean later beats the hell out of not using the plugs. Depending on the shop (for instance, if you just work all day and don't talk to customers), you can and should just leave your earplugs in and only change them at lunch or whatever when your hands are clean. They're way more effective than headsets.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 19:04 |
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Some shops won't let workers wear earplugs and insist on headsets so that it is easier for the boss to see who is wearing their protection and who isn't.
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# ? Apr 7, 2014 21:14 |
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Motronic posted:Do you consider plugs to not work as well as headsets? If so, are you sure you know how to install foam plugs? Many people don't. Plugs work fine but headsets are easier to use for what we're doing. I know how to use foam plugs and get them "in..." Just asking for recommendations for headsets.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 02:23 |
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Blistex posted:Some shops won't let workers wear earplugs and insist on headsets so that it is easier for the boss to see who is wearing their protection and who isn't. Head guy at the police gun range said that in the ear plugs allowed the bone below the ear to still vibrate and damage the ear so he said to use over the year. Don't know if this is bullshit but might add to it?
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 02:33 |
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Not an Anthem posted:Plugs work fine but headsets are easier to use for what we're doing. I know how to use foam plugs and get them "in..." Just asking for recommendations for headsets. I love my earmuffs. Easy to put on and off, comfortable, work well. Cheap. Good middle ground as far as protection You still can hear most things. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-Optime-Reduction-Earmuff/dp/B0017YGE8A/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1396922030&sr=8-10&keywords=ear+protection
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 02:54 |
Christobevii3 posted:Head guy at the police gun range said that in the ear plugs allowed the bone below the ear to still vibrate and damage the ear so he said to use over the year. Don't know if this is bullshit but might add to it? Pretty sure it's bullshit. Last time I took a safety class, plugs were known to better reduce noise and thus better protect your hearing. Granted, that was almost a decade ago and I will admit I miiiiiight be misremembering, but I'd be surprised. Of course, there is absolutely nothing stopping you from wearing BOTH, and I've done it, and it's pretty hilarious when someone tries to talk to you and you forget how much dampening you're wearing.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 03:53 |
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Well, it's sort of kind of true... like when you test someone's ability to hear (not an actual hearing test, more like are they capable of recognizing a sound has happened) you can put the tip of a pitchfork on the bit of skull right behind the ear where your jawbone connects. That will make the little bones vibrate in case their eardrum is blown. I'm not a doctor, but I strongly doubt that's a path for any significant hearing loss. Maybe if you spend all day every day on the range like that guy probably does, but not your average person.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 05:13 |
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I had a job where we had to use walkie-talkies in a noisy environment (not high volumes, but lots of squealing and echoing that tended to obscure things), we often just pressed them against our jawbones when we couldn't make out what was being said.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 13:09 |
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the wizards beard posted:I had a job where we had to use walkie-talkies in a noisy environment (not high volumes, but lots of squealing and echoing that tended to obscure things), we often just pressed them against our jawbones when we couldn't make out what was being said. Now that would be a good case for using the earmuffs with the built in speakers and audio input. Hook them up to the walkie-talkies and crystal clear conversations.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 13:40 |
stubblyhead posted:you can put the tip of a pitchfork on the bit of skull right behind the ear I'd pretend to hear all sorts of things if someone had a pitchfork to my head.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 13:45 |
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I would like advice/suggestions on air compressors. I want to buy an air compressor to do a few things - sandblasting, running a nail gun... sort of heavy duty hobbyist type poo poo. I have been really interested in 'quiet' versions as I live in a metro area but I could work with a noisier one and just use it on weekend/daylight hours but a quiet one would be better. If money were no object (up to 500 or 600 dollars) what would be a good option? I don't know the first thing about the technical aspects of them other than a bigger tank means more air time and I assume more HP means quicker charging of the tank. Is there stuff I should avoid or be weary of? Can I pick up a used one?
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 18:38 |
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Bad Munki posted:I'd pretend to hear all sorts of things if someone had a pitchfork to my head. gently caress! Well, it makes a pitch, and isn't that really the important thing here?
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 18:49 |
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Beat. posted:I would like advice/suggestions on air compressors. I want to buy an air compressor to do a few things - sandblasting, running a nail gun... sort of heavy duty hobbyist type poo poo. I have been really interested in 'quiet' versions as I live in a metro area but I could work with a noisier one and just use it on weekend/daylight hours but a quiet one would be better. If money were no object (up to 500 or 600 dollars) what would be a good option? What's your electric situation? Very large ones need their own breaker in your panel.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 18:50 |
stubblyhead posted:gently caress! Well, it makes a pitch, and isn't that really the important thing here? I was just really enjoying a doctor threatening a patient with a pitchfork to the head, screaming, "CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW YOU SON OF A BITCH???"
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 18:57 |
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kid sinister posted:What's your electric situation? Very large ones need their own breaker in your panel. Ah, right now I am in an apartment type space, so it's lovely. I would not be able to do anything that elegant right now. I may move into a house in the next year or two, which would change things. I guess I should mention this would not be an every day / heavy use type thing but something I use maybe 2-3 days heavily per month, if that, depending on what kind of project I'm doing.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 19:00 |
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If noise is really a consideration, you're going to have to go pretty big (wheeled) to get away from the excessively noisy ones. The larger compressors have larger, slower moving pistons, and they are quieter. Then again do you want to be lugging around a compressor the size or large airplane luggage bags? This is likely as large a size as you'll ever need (unless you're sandblasting boats/houses), but is pretty noisy. Here is the size you're looking at when things start to get quieter than your average freight train.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 19:01 |
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Beat. posted:I would like advice/suggestions on air compressors. I want to buy an air compressor to do a few things - sandblasting, running a nail gun... Just so you know, you went from a small sub-$200 120v compressor that you can pick up and move around with one hand to something that comes attached to a pallet, costs $2k+ and needs a dedicated 30A 240v line with the addition of "sandblasting". So you may want to do some of your own very simple research into the devices you want to use and their PSI and CFM requirements, and then match those up to compressors so that you can come back and ask about something a bit more qualified like "What's the best 60 gal stand up compressor for the price?"
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 19:26 |
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I don't do anything even remotely big, mostly just a pin nailer and the occasional air blast, but this little guy is very quiet for a small compressor: http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-...enco+compressor It's also super tiny and light so even if you buy something really beefy later it's handy to have around for smaller jobs/portable use.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 19:41 |
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First off- the difference between a compressor that can run a nail gun and one that can run a sand blaster are two completely different categories of machines. A nail gun can be ran by nearly any $100-200 pancake style compressor. A sand blaster on the other hand (depending on size- let's use my small 20x24x15 cabinet as an example) can drain my 30 gallon Husky faster then it can keep up. (Currently $449 @Home Depot). Does it work- yes, but not well. Connected to my 60 or 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand/Champion- it has no problem. There are several types of compressors: Homeowner grade: These are the small pancake compressors you see bundled with nail guns. Great for filling a tire and installing trim molding. These are generally 120v, 5-20 gallon, and use what's called a direct drive oil-less pump. They are loud, run hot, and put out around 135PSI and more importantly 3-5 CFM (if that). Pro-sumer grade: These are the 20-30 gallon compressors you see at home stores and Sears. They are a mixed bag- but for the pro-sumer example, let's just say that 90% of these are scalled up versions of the homeowner grade. Same direct drive oil-less pump, 120v, 135psi-150psi and low CFM in the 5CFM-8CFM range. These numbers always seem to be exaggerated and their only main benefits over the smaller units are the larger tank and slightly higher CFM. Professional grade: These are the other 10% of compressors you see at the home stores. They have 30-80 gallon tanks, 3-5hp 120v/220v motors, 135-150psi, 8-16CFM and most importantly OIL lubricated pumps! These are quieter then the air free ones 10x over. Now there are grades above that, like my 60gal Ingersoll Rand SS5 (Retail $995), and even above that like Rotary screw, but we don't need to get in to those if you live in an apartment. Here's what you need to consider: How many CFM do the tools I want to run consume? Nail gun: 1-3cfm Air ratchet: 5cfm Paint gun: 5cfm Power sander: 6-8cfm Impact gun: 8cfm Sand blaster: 10cfm+ If you buy a 5-8CFM air compressor- it's going to run 80% of the tools you want to, but you have to be careful using it on anything that draws more CFM. The cheap oil-free compressors overheat quickly and are basically throw away units. My suggestion: Buy the biggest you can afford/move/power and get a oiled pump. That 30 gallon Husky I have has reliably ran everything above and it works fine on a 15amp circuit. (With nothing else on it, haha). It cost me $50 from a painter 5 years ago. If you are ok with a used compressor- look on craigslist for a few days. I constantly see nice 20-30 gallon compressors for under $200. Champion, Husky, and Speedair are all good compressors in your price range. IF YOU ARE STORING THIS INSIDE-DRAIN THE TANK AFTER EVERY USE. the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Apr 8, 2014 |
# ? Apr 8, 2014 21:58 |
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Motronic posted:Just so you know, you went from a small sub-$200 120v compressor that you can pick up and move around with one hand to something that comes attached to a pallet, costs $2k+ and needs a dedicated 30A 240v line with the addition of "sandblasting". Coming to this forum is me doing my very simple research, thanks for your help the spyder posted:First off- the difference between a compressor that can run a nail gun and one that can run a sand blaster are two completely different categories of machines. A nail gun can be ran by nearly any $100-200 pancake style compressor. A sand blaster on the other hand (depending on size- let's use my small 20x24x15 cabinet as an example) can drain my 30 gallon Husky faster then it can keep up. (Currently $449 @Home Depot). Does it work- yes, but not well. Connected to my 60 or 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand/Champion- it has no problem. Thank you, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. My friend has, what I'd guess is a 30 (it might be a 60) gallon compressor for his sandblasting and it constantly has to recharge, whatever, so I'm trying to avoid that as much as I can. It does get the job done just takes forever. Beat. fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Apr 8, 2014 |
# ? Apr 8, 2014 22:02 |
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Beat. posted:Coming to this forum is me doing my very simple research, thanks for your help Really? Then you're pretty terrible are research. Best of luck with using an internet comedy forum for your purchase decisions.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 22:06 |
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The mini Senco's are an awesome size and weight for things with a finishing nailer, but are fairly limited with their capacity and recharge time. We have two of them kicking around at work; great for small jobs, taking up stairs and even packing into the truck (super small footprint) I've got the Makita Mac 700, which is a pretty good middle ground compressor for size, capacity, recharge time and loudness, but drat is it heavy. I've been eyeing the Rolair JC10 myself. Tablesaw chat. Has anyone played with the Dewalt 7480 or the comparable portable Bosch? The Bosch is extremely tempting with it's small, stackable footprint (for storage), but seems to get somewhat negative reviews compared to the Dewalt 745. The 7480 seems to be the new 745, with a bigger ripping capacity and different motor, which lacks the soft start. I love the 745, but the 7480 can be had for $300.
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 22:09 |
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Motronic posted:Really? Then you're pretty terrible are research. Best of luck with using an internet comedy forum for your purchase decisions. I'm pretty good at sorting out helpful people from the general clowns
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 22:10 |
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Beat. posted:My friend has, what I'd guess is a 30 (it might be a 60) gallon compressor for his sandblasting and it constantly has to recharge, whatever, so I'm trying to avoid that as much as I can. It does get the job done just takes forever. Are you using your friends sandblaster, something bigger, a little $50 hobby sandblaster, or what? If you know, give us the model so we can read up on the specs and requirements. The first compressor I showed will run a little "rinky-dink" sandblaster for about a minute before you need to give it another 2-3 to recharge. If you sandblast the bottom of your canoe once a year, then it will be fine. If you're planning on sandblasting houses and industrial machinery then you're going to need a compressor that has a its own trailer you hook up to your truck's ball-hitch and runs off its own gas/diesel engine (plus a sandblaster to match). A little info would go a long way...
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 01:26 |
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My cordless tools are a bit long in the tooth so I'd like to buy some new ones. I'm not a professional, this is just for around the house type stuff. I assume all the major brands are more or less the same? I figure I'd buy one brand/series and stick with it so the batteries will be swappable. I'm looking at getting a hammerdrill, impact driver, reciprocating saw, and maybe a cordless saw. I have corded tools too but I find myself reaching for the cordless ones more often. I need a new miter saw too as my ancient cast iron Craftsman stopped working.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 01:43 |
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# ? May 19, 2024 18:40 |
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I think the goon consensus was that Makita and Milwaukee were the two brands that are leading the pack in the battery dept.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:11 |