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madpanda posted:Do yokes rotate and turn fast enough for them to be viable for racing games or even just euro truck sim? Sure they turn fast enough. The problem is with the range. A typical Yoke like the CH yoke has about 90 degrees of rotation. A good wheel has 900 degrees of rotation. You can map the yoke to an exponential curve and it will work for some basic stuff.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:36
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Yeah and that's 45deg side to side for sim yokes. Expensive ones, and real ones, will go about 180 degrees total (90 either side). They don't turn all the way around like a car steering wheel.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:41
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madpanda posted:Do yokes rotate and turn fast enough for them to be viable for racing games or even just euro truck sim? I actually use my CH yoke for euro truck sim. Not as great as a real wheel but it works well enough that I don't mind using it.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:17
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madpanda posted:Do yokes rotate and turn fast enough for them to be viable for racing games or even just euro truck sim? If you don't have a racing wheel, I would go with a console-style controller over anything else.
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Apr 9, 2014 22:05
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I'm reading some FSX guide, and it recommends to read some other books. They are all very hard to find/expensive (at least for me as European). Is this usually the case? Are they that good? Here is the list: - Stick and Rudder, Wolfgang Langewiesche - The Compleat Taildragger Pilot, Harvey Plourde - Weather Flying, Robert Buck - Seaplane Operations, Dale De Remer and Cesare Baj - Mountain Flying, Doug Geeting and Steve Woerner - Basic Aerobatics, Geza Szurovy and Mike Goulian - Song of the Sky, Guy Murchie - Wind, Sand, and Stars, Antoine de Saint-Exupery - Fate Is the Hunter, Ernet Gahn - West with the Night, Beryl Markham - Federal Aviation Regulations and Aeronautical Information Manual
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Apr 10, 2014 00:46
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The very last one, at least, is available online for free as a PDF
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Apr 10, 2014 01:48
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Stick and Rudder is an excellent airplane flying primer. I'm surprised to hear it's expensive, I think I paid $10usd new for my hardcover copy.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:39
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Same here, got it off amazon for the same when I started sperging about planes/sims.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:44
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The Ferret King posted:Stick and Rudder is an excellent airplane flying primer. I'm surprised to hear it's expensive, I think I paid $10usd new for my hardcover copy. http://www.amazon.com/Stick-Rudder-Explanation-Art-Flying/dp/0070362408/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397098283&sr=8-1&keywords=stick+and+rudder yeah - $15?
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Apr 10, 2014 03:51
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Google Books used to have a good chunk of it available, sadly it's gone now. It's a really drat good book on how and why airplanes fly. It did my technical flying a world of good, actual pilots still use it to study for license exams. You'll see a copy in The Tuskegee Airmen.
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Apr 10, 2014 04:14
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Is anyone here into Aces High II? Or is that considered sacrilege or something by you guys? I'm ignorant of the flight sim community for the most part but I used to enjoy Aces High several years ago. Only reason I didn't continue with it was the monthly subscription.
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Apr 10, 2014 13:38
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I tried it and while it wasn't as realistic as say IL-2, I still found it fun. That being said, I don't have enough time for the games I already have. A monthly sub would be a waste.
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Apr 10, 2014 13:53
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You might check out War Thunder, its free to play and theres not a real pay to win component (its pay to fly jets and higher tier aircraft but low tier stuff is more fun anyways).
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Apr 10, 2014 15:52
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hobbesmaster posted:You might check out War Thunder, its free to play and theres not a real pay to win component (its pay to fly jets and higher tier aircraft but low tier stuff is more fun anyways). Don't do arcade battles with a HOTAS, you'll be at a disadvantage. Actually, just play realistic battles and ignore arcade mode unless you like that kind of thing.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:06
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hobbesmaster posted:its pay to fly jets and higher tier aircraft What? 
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Apr 10, 2014 16:12
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Arcade can be fun for some cheap easy shooty-planes, and you may want to play a bit of it early on because there's not a large population of realistic/simulator battle players on the earliest levels. Mouse+keyboad will beat the poo poo out of a stick in arcade. In Realistic mouse is probably a little better but if you're good with a stick then go ahead. Simulator is the land of stick only and is also pretty fun. e: also it's really not "pay to fly jets". It's more "pay to fly jets in under 6 months". To be honest though all the best gameplay is in the middle ranges anyway. Shanakin fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 16:12
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kalstrams posted:What? It's not, you can unlock the jets by research & in-game currency, it just takes ages to research without using golden eagles.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:16
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Shanakin posted:e: also it's really not "pay to fly jets". It's more "pay to fly jets in under 6 months". To be honest though all the best gameplay is in the middle ranges anyway. That's how most f2p games work, you have a level beyond which you have to pay to advance in a realistic amount of time. The pay by the day for premium accounts is to get you used to paying a little bit, then you say "oh well the hitlerbolt has extra rewards and it's only $5" and then before you know it you're dumping more than a $15/month subscription in. Separating gamers from their cash in F2P games is down to a science, look at clash of clans, candy crush and the like. There's some good articles on gamasutra on the topic. But anyways, it never becomes p2w because people with pimped out energy fighters will try and turn fight spitfires and even chaikas and refuse to disengage because pubbies.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:23
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SybilVimes posted:It's not, you can unlock the jets by research & in-game currency, it just takes ages to research without using golden eagles. I know it is not. I was curious about what the hell he is writing.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:26
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hobbesmaster posted:That's how most f2p games work, you have a level beyond which you have to pay to advance in a realistic amount of time. The pay by the day for premium accounts is to get you used to paying a little bit, then you say "oh well the hitlerbolt has extra rewards and it's only $5" and then before you know it you're dumping more than a $15/month subscription in. That's cool and true and all that but it still doesn't make it "pay to fly jets". It's just pay to fly them in under 6 months on a semi-regular basis of playing.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:59
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hobbesmaster posted:Separating gamers from their cash in F2P games is down to a science, look at clash of clans, candy crush and the like. There's some good articles on gamasutra on the topic. World of Tanks is apparently the current leader in separating people from their cash. Edit: I've not played for at least a year, so I don't actually know. I go through intense phases with MMOs, then dump them for a year or so. Hav fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 17:55
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I'm surprised WoT is still a thing. Do they still only have the one 'kill all opponents or park in their circle to win' game mode that was old school a decade ago?
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Apr 10, 2014 18:09
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EvilJoven posted:I'm surprised WoT is still a thing. Do they still only have the one 'kill all opponents or park in their circle to win' game mode that was old school a decade ago? That is still the main mode, as far as I am concerned. I have not played it for already a year or so, but I would certainly notice such news article as I tend to read a lot of gaming stuff. Hav posted:World of Tanks is apparently the current leader in separating people from their cash.  Don't think much about CrossFire though. I was told that it has concurrent peak online of 4 million people, in China. cinci zoo sniper fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 18:46
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The Ferret King posted:Stick and Rudder is an excellent airplane flying primer. I'm surprised to hear it's expensive, I think I paid $10usd new for my hardcover copy. hobbesmaster posted:http://www.amazon.com/Stick-Rudder-Explanation-Art-Flying/dp/0070362408/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397098283&sr=8-1&keywords=stick+and+rudder yeah - $15? For some reason I have to pay like $20 just for shipping when I'd order from Amazon.com (I live in Europe). Amazon.de has the cheapest one for 14 Euros used (and still a lot more for shipping). The cheapest unit on Ebay is 17 Euros, 20 or so including shipping. I'm not willing to pay that much for a book from 1944.
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Apr 11, 2014 03:06
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It really should be in any chain bookstore locally. It's a very very popular aviation book. (I'm talking out my rear end, maybe it's just not stocked locally, but it really is quite a good book).
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Apr 11, 2014 03:11
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I gave pretty much the entire day to trying to get a diy track clip put together. I thought it was fate that radioshack had three ir leds left but one doesn't work out of the bag. I pulled one out of a tv remote and well.. tying that in to the chain made a bunch of sparks and now none of them work. Daaaaaamn it
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Apr 11, 2014 04:01
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Stick and Rudder is a fantastic book. I really need to get around to reading it again. And yes it is old, but none of it is outdated or irrelevant, the physics of flying haven't changed at all last I checked.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:52
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ethanol posted:I gave pretty much the entire day to trying to get a diy track clip put together. I thought it was fate that radioshack had three ir leds left but one doesn't work out of the bag. I pulled one out of a tv remote and well.. tying that in to the chain made a bunch of sparks and now none of them work. Daaaaaamn it Put in a day or two of overtime, get paid, buy a proper TrackIR. I'm not trying to sound like an elitist prick who thinks money grows on trees, I'm trying to save you time and money and frustration. Everyone I know who's built a freetrack setup spent so much time and effort trying to build one that they wish they would have just went out and got the money together to buy a real one.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:58
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^^^ I had loads of fun building mine, cost me next to nothing and it works as good as it possible can. I'm using it with a PS3Eye with removed IR filter. I found that the simplest way is to use a steel hanger and cut it up and shape to the size / angles needed. Then place all the components on it and see how much wire / space you need. after that it's just a matter of soldering and taping. I used an old phone power supply for power.
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Apr 11, 2014 07:57
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MrOnBicycle posted:^^^ Mine is even more ghetto. I used a bunch of pens glued together as the clip then smashed open a wii sensor bar and unsolder 3 (there are 8 total)of the ir leds extended them with scrap cat5e wire strands then plugged the sensor bar back into the wii that is nothing more than a glorified power brick now, Total cost was $9.99 for the used ps3 eye cam from gamestop.
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Apr 11, 2014 12:53
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RPS did quite cool piece on DCS World TF-51D Mustang.
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Apr 11, 2014 13:28
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EvilJoven posted:Put in a day or two of overtime, get paid, buy a proper TrackIR. I'm not trying to sound like an elitist prick who thinks money grows on trees, I'm trying to save you time and money and frustration. Everyone I know who's built a freetrack setup spent so much time and effort trying to build one that they wish they would have just went out and got the money together to buy a real one. Also the track clip pro is significantly better than the hat clip. Just throwing that out there.
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Apr 11, 2014 20:29
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EvilJoven posted:Put in a day or two of overtime, get paid, buy a proper TrackIR. I'm not trying to sound like an elitist prick who thinks money grows on trees, I'm trying to save you time and money and frustration. Everyone I know who's built a freetrack setup spent so much time and effort trying to build one that they wish they would have just went out and got the money together to buy a real one. Hard to do overtime as a barely self employed blob! TrackIR is on my list of things to buy but unfortunately that will be a little while. Anyways, I bought more leds and got a working clip model made but it's not rigid enough which I can see is messing up the calibration and causing other problems every time I take it on and off. I'm constantly battling deadzones as well. And yeah, it's clear trackIR is going to be superior to anything I can make for $10. I've had other surprise troubles, such as the leds somehow reflecting back as spots on my face which get picked up when I turn my head, although they at one point got dimmer and I'm not sure why. they seemed to be reflecting from the camera surface. So I'm going to give it another few hours and then probably give up on it. ethanol fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Apr 12, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 05:20
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The LEDs get dimmer when you turn your head because they are probably made to have a pretty narrow angle of projection. I filed my LEDs down to just before the metal part, and made them flat. Now the projection angle is as wide as possible, and I can turn my head more without the camera losing sight of the LEDs. It's also important to have the correct dimension and angles set up both in hardware and software. Edit: http://i.imgur.com/pgHYL58.jpg Here's mine. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Apr 12, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 09:05
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You can also just get wide-angle IR LEDs. Newark has them for a buck a piece: http://www.newark.com/osram/sfh485p/ir-emitter-880nm-t-1-3-4-through/dp/01M8813
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Apr 12, 2014 17:00
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That's actually not the problem. I did file them down. the problem is the IR beams are reflecting back onto my face and are almost as bright as the LEDs. Turning up the threshold helps this but then even then filed leds don't get picked past about 140 degrees yaw. This seems to be more camera related, which has a rather poor field of view and some sort of mirrorcoating. Shifting my head left or right while turning to keep inside the fov is necessary. This was all a major problem until I turned off the return to center option in facetracknoir, now losing tracking for part of a second isn't that big of a deal. and adjusting the curves to fit my fov worked wonders as well
ethanol fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 12, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 17:41
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That sounds like you've sitting next to a sunny window or something. It's really unlikely that your monitor or whatever else is in front of you is returning enough of the LED light to illuminate your face almost as bright as the LEDs themselves. e: are you using a piece of film or something to filter vis wavelengths? I have no idea how facetracknoIR does, uh, IR tracking. Paper Mac fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Apr 12, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 17:54
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Paper Mac posted:That sounds like you've sitting next to a sunny window or something. It's really unlikely that your monitor or whatever else is in front of you is returning enough of the LED light to illuminate your face almost as bright as the LEDs themselves. I'm using a visible light filter from the original xbox 360 remote. Whether that is on or off doesn't affect the ir reflections. It's definitely the three leds reflecting back from the camera lense itself. Sunlight actually reduces their reflecting intensity. I'm going to file down the leds more and turn the threshold up, that should negate them.
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Apr 12, 2014 19:05
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ethanol posted:I'm using a visible light filter from the original xbox 360 remote. Whether that is on or off doesn't affect the ir reflections. It's definitely the three leds reflecting back from the camera lense itself. Sunlight actually reduces their reflecting intensity. I'm going to file down the leds more and turn the threshold up, that should negate them. You don't have any kind of image auto-gain turned on do you ? Because that can mess with this sort of thing just like you're describing.
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Apr 12, 2014 19:27
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SybilVimes posted:You don't have any kind of image auto-gain turned on do you ? Because that can mess with this sort of thing just like you're describing. Hmm, not sure?
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Apr 12, 2014 19:50
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