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Motronic posted:In commercial hoods this is handled by actual ducting for makeup air so the hood works as intended/designed. If you've got some cash to burn you can get the makeup air heated so that you don't end up getting cold air down your back all winter (commercial hoods are huge). Seems like the simplest thing to do would be to have a heat exchanger that tries to equalize the temperature of the vented air with the make-up air. Probably can't get too fancy with the vented air since it could have all kinds of goop in it, but the make-up air should be pretty clean and could be run through whatever tiny hoses you need to get efficient heat exchange.
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Apr 8, 2014 17:44
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeast is a fungus Huh. I should have known that. Motronic posted:Some hoods are designed to be vented outside. These may NEVER be vented inside as it's against code to install something against it's certified labeling and instructions, and for exactly the reason you mention. My hood actually has a punchout you can use to have it just recirculate air, but if you do that, it sends it back into the kitchen through a grating on the top front of the hood. The utility there is that the air goes through the grease trap. So you can either do that, or vent directly outside, through a wall or through the roof. What's warned against is to just vent into the open attic space. I'm saying I think that's probably against code.
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Apr 8, 2014 17:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Seems like the simplest thing to do would be to have a heat exchanger that tries to equalize the temperature of the vented air with the make-up air. Probably can't get too fancy with the vented air since it could have all kinds of goop in it, but the make-up air should be pretty clean and could be run through whatever tiny hoses you need to get efficient heat exchange. Simple is not equal to cheap or feasible in the real world where metal is expensive, space is at a premium, and you have to pay people to build, install and maintain it. Leperflesh posted:What's warned against is to just vent into the open attic space. I'm saying I think that's probably against code. You are correc because: it's against the installation instructions. People seem to be surprised at how much of what "passes code" relies on what you buy and what's in the installation manual for that specific piece of equipment. The contents of the instructions are based on how the device was tested to meet it's required safety standard (UL, ETL, CE, etc). Install it contrary to that manual and it no longer passes the safety standard. Passing some safety standard is almost always going to be a requirement for any sort of permanently installed electrical, gas, or fire suppression equipment.
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Apr 8, 2014 19:22
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I still need to address the water issue on the back basement wall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6NOGA-tdWo
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Apr 8, 2014 21:14
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Looks like it's been addressed to me!
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Apr 8, 2014 21:47
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evilnissan posted:I still need to address the water issue on the back basement wall. I watched this entire video.
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Apr 8, 2014 22:17
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DNova posted:I watched this entire video.
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Apr 8, 2014 22:23
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Don't call a repairman. That could cost you thousands!
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Apr 8, 2014 23:03
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One Legged Ninja posted:Don't call a repairman. That could cost you thousands! By my estimates my dad saved millions on repairing this house!
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Apr 9, 2014 00:51
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Baronjutter posted:I'm pretty sure my apartment hood doesn't vent outside unless there's something tiny behind it, but it seems to work pretty good for smells. It's just got a million filters inside and scoops everything up. Yeah, and give those filters just a tiny bit of the usual abuse of someone who doesn't own the place and thus gives no fucks, and they'll be a greaseball just waiting to explode into merry flames the very second you get a grease fire on the stove.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:18
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Mine dumps the air back out directly into your face while you're cooking without filtering it at all it seems, which is really pleasant when cooking onions 
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Apr 9, 2014 02:29
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You've all inspired me to clean the filters in my kitchen hood. They're awful and I feel great shame for letting them get to this point. 
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Apr 9, 2014 04:52
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killhamster posted:You've all inspired me to clean the filters in my kitchen hood. They're awful and I feel great shame for letting them get to this point. Mine is horrific but ima level witchu: I have no idea how to clean it! I don't have a dishwasher (bitch left me).
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Apr 9, 2014 05:06
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High five terrified of kitchen hood bros. 
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Apr 9, 2014 05:17
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Oh man, I haven't even thought to check mine ever. I've been living here for three years and it probably wasn't clean when I moved in 
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Apr 9, 2014 05:24
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Mine dumps the air back out directly into your face while you're cooking without filtering it at all it seems, which is really pleasant when cooking onions
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Apr 9, 2014 15:21
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Zhentar posted:Cracking the window when it's -10 degrees out is quite effective at controlling bathroom humidity, actually. I've barely used my fan all winter. My ancient single-pane slider window freezes solid below -20'C and the bathroom fan just vents directly into the attic so I'm afraid to run it. For a bit I was using a desk fan which didn't help the dampness in there... definitely gotta get a gooseneck vent cut this summer before horrible alien death mold kills me. The home inspector noticed that the bathroom fan wasn't hooked up to anything, but failed to note that there was nothing in the roof to hook up to. The bathroom right next door to it does have a fully functional hood, vent hose, and roof vent though.  I'm glad we're discussing it in the thread: I'll make myself feel better about the expenditure by going for the highest-CFM bathroom fan I can fit. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 16:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:
You should be able to y-into that vent and use it, unless you think both fans will be going at the same time regularly. Every bathroom fan I've seen has a flapper that closes when the fan is off (it's just blown open when the fan turns on) so blowing air from one bathroom to the other shouldn't be a concern.
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Apr 9, 2014 17:03
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NancyPants posted:Mine is horrific but ima level witchu: If it's steel, just get a pan full of boiling water and pour over it, or use industrial kitchen degreaser (Simple Green gets most any grease off, too). If it's plastic, get a new one. 
Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 17:17
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Liquid Communism posted:If it's steel, just get a pan full of boiling water and pour over it, or use industrial kitchen degreaser (Simple Green gets most any grease off, too). If it's plastic, get a new one. Will do, thanks for the tip.
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Apr 9, 2014 17:26
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Motronic posted:You should be able to y-into that vent and use it, unless you think both fans will be going at the same time regularly. Unfortunately, our municipal code explicitly forbids that. That was the first thing I thought to do, and I have a feeling that's how it was originally set up. That said, I might as well just move the hose over to it since that's the only bathroom that sees regular use.
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Apr 9, 2014 17:43
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Liquid Communism posted:If it's steel, just get a pan full of boiling water and pour over it, or use industrial kitchen degreaser (Simple Green gets most any grease off, too). If it's plastic, get a new one. Keep in mind that Simple Green, especially undiluted, is fantastic at stripping latex paint. Over in the Trad Games forum we use the stuff for stripping the paint off of tiny man dolls. I used some while cleaning up my cabinet above the new vent, until I started to get peeling paint and had to stop. You should be able to remove the filter from your hood. If it's too horrific to contemplate cleaning, just buy a new one, I bet they're like $2. Speaking of:  Done! I cut out a square of MDF, sanded the edges a bit to give it a rounded lip, cut a hole in the middle, and spray painted it white. There's a really minor gap that I can probably fix by gluing the square in place with some silicone or whatever, right now it's just held in place by the lip of the light fixture, but it doesn't look half bad as-is. I also got that shelf in there without too much trouble. Just had to cut the slot for the vent and conduit slightly wide, and then kind of angled and wrangled and twisted the shelf until it worked.
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Apr 10, 2014 00:58
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Unfortunately, our municipal code explicitly forbids that. Ick. Yeah, I've seen that in some codes. I think it's getting put into (or may already be) in the i-codes. This is one of those "if everything is in order it's not a problem, but let's add a rule for bad contractors and stupid homeowners" situations.
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Apr 10, 2014 01:15
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NancyPants posted:Mine is horrific but ima level witchu: There is stuff called Tornado 50 that is amazing at cleaning those aluminum filters (and a lot of other stuff). I mixed it about 3:1 water to cleaner and filled the kitchen sink deep enough to submerge the filter and let it soak for about 15 minutes. The filter was filthy with that gummed up grease that is about impossible to clean off when it went in, but after soaking, the water looked like toilet water after a hard night of drinking and taco bell and the filter looked brand new. I don't mean "looked pretty good", but like it was just pulled off the shelf at the hardware store without the slightest trace of grease. The hard part is getting it. You can probably get it in St. Albans WVA where it is manufactured, and they have a distributor in La Crosse WI. If, for some strange reason, you don't live in either of those towns, you can order it if you call them. When I ordered it, their minimum order was 4 gallons (had something to do with freight shipping hazardous chemicals or something like that) and they were like $20/gal. It was spendy, but four gallons will last a LONG time because you dilute it at 15:1 for general cleaning.
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Apr 10, 2014 01:33
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If its a metal filter just take it out onto a concrete slab and burn the grease off!
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Apr 10, 2014 01:49
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I have my own crappy construction tale from the weekend. I installed a window where there wasn't one in the shed. First I cut the hole too big. Not really by accident, but because I hadn't thought through how it was going to mount and I knew the wood trim would save me in the end. I have a bad habit of putting decisions off when I know they can be fixed/patched/sanded later. But then inevitably those steps take longer than the proper planning up front. Anyway, to fill in some of the gaps behind the trim I bought the yellow spray foam stuff which I had never used. Seemed fine at first and I put silicon caulk over it. Then I was horrified to watch the yellow foam continue expanding for 2+ hours and spread itself and the silicon everywhere. I stood there for nearly an hour cleaning it up as it stubbornly oozed out until I finally gave up and left it overnight. This is what I found in the morning. Anyway, I hate both caulking and foam. After an extra 2 hours of cleanup and extra painting though it does look fine now. 
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Apr 10, 2014 03:17
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asdf32 posted:Anyway, to fill in some of the gaps behind the trim I bought the yellow spray foam stuff which I had never used. Seemed fine at first and I put silicon caulk over it. Then I was horrified to watch the yellow foam continue expanding for 2+ hours and spread itself and the silicon everywhere. I'm sorry, I burst out laughing at this point. Yep, that foam keeps going! At least it's just a shed and not a part of your actual house, right?
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Apr 10, 2014 03:26
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asdf32 posted:I have my own crappy construction tale from the weekend. At least the expanding foam didn't wedge your window closed or just flat out crack the glass! EDIT: Are you using full silicon caulk or just "silicon added" latex caulking? I'm not sure what the general consensus is in here, but for outdoor/high water applications I've always been taught to use full silicon caulking because it won't wear out/leak/mildew as fast. Amykinz fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 03:49
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"Low-Expansion Foam". I think I've mentioned it two or more times in the thread, but always use the low-expansion stuff. Unless you are intending to fill large gaps or do your own version of spray-foam insulations, use the low-expansion stuff. Like Amykinz said, you can damage your windows with that stuff.
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Apr 10, 2014 04:04
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You people and your fancy bathrooms that actually have any sort of way to direct air outside. Mine has no vent fan, and no window. It may have had a window (perhaps with a fan!) at some point but after the third addition to the house it does not. I just leave the door open because otherwise it would be insane.
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Apr 10, 2014 04:49
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Shifty Pony posted:You people and your fancy bathrooms that actually have any sort of way to direct air outside. http://superiorsaunas.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=454 http://transomsdirect.com/ asdf32 posted:I have my own crappy construction tale from the weekend. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 05:21
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Nitrox posted:Good job reading instructions on that can of foam. Also, those drywall screws are going to rust and leave rusty streaks within about a year
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Apr 10, 2014 06:06
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I definitely have a couple boxes of square drive drywall screws. But yeah, those look too shiny, I think they are deck screws too.
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Apr 10, 2014 06:26
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Nitrox posted:Also, if leaving bathroom doors open is not an option, a register with angled fins works ok. You can make a permanent pass though opening in the wall or the door itself. If you're handy enough, a tilt-open transom window above the bathroom door works best. No, no. Those are stainless trim head screws. I put a strange amount of time into researching and buying screws online. Usually McFeely's. The foam was just a can of "Great Stuff"
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Apr 10, 2014 16:52
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asdf32 posted:No, no. Those are stainless trim head screws. I put a strange amount of time into researching and buying screws online. Usually McFeely's. Great Stuff actually makes a product specifically for windows. It doesn't expand so much. http://greatstuff.dow.com/products/window-and-door/
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Apr 10, 2014 16:57
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asdf32 posted:The foam was just a can of "Great Stuff" Which comes in low, medium, and high-ex. You want the blue can (low) for windows and doors.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:57
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I have a hollow door that lets in a lot of noise. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the top and filling it with foam. I of course have no clue exactly how much empty space is inside or how it's laid out. Is this a crazy idea? If not, would that be the best kind of foam for the job, or is there something even more low-expansion/sound-reducing?
Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 17:21
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:I have a hollow door that lets in a lot of noise. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the top and filling it with foam. I of course have no clue exactly how much empty space is inside or how it's laid out. Is this a crazy idea? If not, would that be the best kind of foam for the job, or is there something even more low-expansion/sound-reducing? This is a terrible idea, spend the money on a proper door.
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Apr 10, 2014 17:22
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Leperflesh posted:Keep in mind that Simple Green, especially undiluted, is fantastic at stripping latex paint. Over in the Trad Games forum we use the stuff for stripping the paint off of tiny man dolls.
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Apr 10, 2014 17:22
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Anne Whateley posted:I have a hollow door that lets in a lot of noise. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the top and filling it with foam. I of course have no clue exactly how much empty space is inside or how it's laid out. Is this a crazy idea? If not, would that be the best kind of foam for the job, or is there something even more low-expansion/sound-reducing? Any kind of foam would be very likely to distort the door. Just replace it. You can find one at something like ReStore for $20, which is probably less than what you would pay for enough foam to fill it.
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Apr 10, 2014 17:23
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