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thechalkoutline posted:I have Whiteline 22s rear/front and endlinks on a '12 WRX and it was a pretty conservative leap in NVH. I've also been in a buddy's '09 WRX with 25s and that was outside of 'fairly smooth ride,' FWIW. Did you go with Whiteline endlinks, or something like Kartboy? Any creaking/clunking noises?
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Apr 10, 2014 01:37
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22/22 with kartboy endlinks is a very good combo for a street car and I've had it on my car for like 4 years now. Occasionally I have to grease the front swaybar bushings because they start to squeak, but that hasn't happened for a long time now.
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Apr 10, 2014 02:33
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I hope this doesn't stir things up too much in here.  
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Apr 10, 2014 03:42
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2000 Legacy Wagon, 5MT, 141K. I am getting a whirring noise that sounds like it is coming from the back of the car at speeds above ~20 mph. It sounds a lot like tire noise from big blocky offroad tires. It does not change with load; putting in the clutch or pulsing the throttle has no effect. I am thinking wheel bearing? It just doesn't sound like any bad wheel bearing I have heard before, those usually go womwomwom and this is like rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
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Apr 10, 2014 13:21
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I'm dealing with a wheel bearing that got smoked by a pothole on my Audi right now and it sounds just like that. Hit some on and off ramps at speed to see if it gets louder and quieter with turning.
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Apr 10, 2014 13:24
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Bojanglesworth posted:I hope this doesn't stir things up too much in here. Something about those wheels makes me oscillate rapidly between loving and hating them. They're pretty awesome actually, what are they?
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Apr 10, 2014 13:46
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I've been looking into getting a WRX to replace my RX-8 What would you guys say is a reasonable price to pay for a 2012 WRX with 20,000 miles? The dealership has the price listed at $26,993 which I feel is insanely high. I'm in northwest Florida and they seem pretty hard to find around here.
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Apr 10, 2014 16:26
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Welcome to WRX/STI prices.  That being said, KBB for me (Pittsburgh) puts a car like that at around $23k.
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Apr 10, 2014 17:03
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Someone posted about an obd scanner on sale at harbor freight. Is it the centech handheld? I was planning on getting a usb to obd2 cable and trying my luck with pc apps, about 75 dollars cheaper. Anyone have an argument either way?
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Apr 10, 2014 19:55
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Wojcigitty posted:2000 Legacy Wagon, 5MT, 141K. I am getting a whirring noise that sounds like it is coming from the back of the car at speeds above ~20 mph. It sounds a lot like tire noise from big blocky offroad tires. It does not change with load; putting in the clutch or pulsing the throttle has no effect. I am thinking wheel bearing? It just doesn't sound like any bad wheel bearing I have heard before, those usually go womwomwom and this is like rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Sounds like my transfer case/center diff bearing destruction. Can you get under the car while it's going with a stethoscope?
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Apr 10, 2014 20:29
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Yakattak posted:Sounds like my transfer case/center diff bearing destruction. Can you get under the car while it's going with a stethoscope? I could probably put it up on jackstands and do that. What should I listen for? The same noise coming from the transfer case?
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Apr 10, 2014 21:04
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I'm trying to pull my front seats out. There is a yellow electrical connector with a green tab thing on it that does not want to disconnect. Why this is different from every other connection aside, how do I disconnect this thing? I am about to lose my poo poo and cut the wires. e: nm, it's just a really stubborn bitch. Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 22:03
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dayman posted:Something about those wheels makes me oscillate rapidly between loving and hating them. They're pretty awesome actually, what are they? Hahaha, thanks I think. They are Rotiform VCE's.
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Apr 10, 2014 22:51
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always be closing posted:Someone posted about an obd scanner on sale at harbor freight. Is it the centech handheld? I was planning on getting a usb to obd2 cable and trying my luck with pc apps, about 75 dollars cheaper. Anyone have an argument either way? Get a 10 dollar elm237 and ANY android anything http://www.amazon.com/Koolertron-F-12-OBDII-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B004B7YXOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397167711&sr=8-1&keywords=elm+237 Download the app torque. Enjoy. Seriously if you don't have an android device, you get a cheap tablet AND can do obd2 poo poo. Way better than some bullshit scanner. JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:I'm trying to pull my front seats out. There is a yellow electrical connector with a green tab thing on it that does not want to disconnect. Why this is different from every other connection aside, how do I disconnect this thing? I am about to lose my poo poo and cut the wires. Welcome to subaru airbag connectors. You have to press in the green tab AND press in the regular tab at a magic amount of pressure on both to get them to release.
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Apr 10, 2014 23:10
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Slow is Fast posted:Get a 10 dollar elm237 and ANY android anything
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Apr 10, 2014 23:31
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8ender posted:I'm dealing with a wheel bearing that got smoked by a pothole on my Audi right now and it sounds just like that. I found that while hooning hard to the right the noise gets quite a bit quieter, so it must be a wheel bearing. Thanks! Glad it's not the center diff.
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Apr 11, 2014 02:27
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Remember how I posted about that Subaru dealership who stopped talking to me when I said my age? I just stopped there on the way home to check out their 2015 wrx and got a million dirty looks from anyone who started walking over to chat to me once they got a proper look at me. I guess its the end of the day but come on. The next closest Subaru was more than happy to talk to me later in the day than it is now when I was considering a loan on a brz, same with the Toyota that is owned by the same people as the second Subaru when I asked about an 86. I don't even care that its out of my way to go to the further away dealership, these dicks will never get any of my business. I was considering trading in my impreza if they gave me a good price (big if, I know) instead of loving around with selling it, but not any more.
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Apr 11, 2014 08:13
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Joose BuckaLoose posted:I've been looking into getting a WRX to replace my RX-8 That's because it is. We hold our resale value pretty well, so you can expect near new MSRP for low miles in that year range. After having my 08 vandalized a few weeks ago, I immediately started looking at prices in the 2011-2013 range, just in case my insurance company decided to claim it a total loss. After seeing that not many 2008-2010's were available in similar condition to mine pre-vandalism, and in 5dr, I settled with a 2014 due to used pricing structure and resale value being so close to new MSRP. Thankfully, I didn't have to deal with it being totalled, and don't have to take a couple weekends for a full powertrain swap into a new car.  tl;dr: at $27k, that's $500 short of a new WRX
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Apr 11, 2014 15:16
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Ordered a new torque wrench, a tyc rad, and a pair of 642s. Here we goooooo...
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Apr 11, 2014 17:29
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Joose BuckaLoose posted:I've been looking into getting a WRX to replace my RX-8 At that price you're better off just buying a new 2015. And you really should...
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Apr 11, 2014 17:58
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Any recommendations for rear diff insert and rear subframe bushings? Also looking for anything else fun to do to the car, '12 WRX with the following: quote:Cobb DP I'm new to this whole caring-about-cars business, this is the first car I've bought (new) that wasn't a beater, so I could be dumb/wrong about a lot of stuff. The insert and subframe are for the sloppy rear. The car still wants to understeer, so an alignment is somewhere on the list. Control arm bushings? I also have no clue where to go for power after the full TBE, I don't want a bigger turbo because it's a DD that commutes on fairly empty windy roads (my commute rules) and rarely goes over 80mph. Would a fuel pump or boost controller do anything for me? From what I gather, any noticeable improvement in power will require a large/questionable investment and will make my car explode sooner, is that right?
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Apr 11, 2014 17:59
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McSpatula posted:That's because it is. We hold our resale value pretty well, so you can expect near new MSRP for low miles in that year range. For reference, I'm buying a 2015 WRX Limited, and I'm only paying 2k more than that. I could've had a base WRX for less than that.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:27
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Been helping get an 04 STi with real low miles ready to be sent to the shop, cant wait to see it when it gets back. In the process we cannibalized a few totaled Sti's from the 04-06 years. Preparing a post to try and sell to goons some parts if possible, most importantly a low mileage APS SR55 turbo http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/aps_turbo.htm msg me for details/goon prices. On another note, I still have not replaced my totaled vehicle, and possibly looking at newer wrx's or Legacy GT's..
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Apr 12, 2014 02:39
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Is it recommended to use any sealant on the gasket surface when doing the valve cover gaskets? Lots of different opinions around.
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Apr 12, 2014 07:21
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VelociBacon posted:Is it recommended to use any sealant on the gasket surface when doing the valve cover gaskets? Lots of different opinions around. Only around the half moon seals and a dab on the corners over the cams. Gray rtv works fine.
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Apr 12, 2014 07:38
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Bojanglesworth posted:I hope this doesn't stir things up too much in here. A bit more ride height and that would be juuuuuuuuust perfect.
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Apr 12, 2014 07:39
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jamal posted:Only around the half moon seals and a dab on the corners over the cams. Gray rtv works fine. Thank you. Is the gasket for the 'oil separator cover' the name for the gasket at the bottom of the fill tube? Where it meets the valve cover? Thanks in advance.
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Apr 12, 2014 08:05
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VelociBacon posted:Thank you. No. Those are the gaskets that are between the valve cover and the plastic things where the pcv lines connect. The fill tube would just be called an o-ring
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Apr 12, 2014 08:13
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jamal posted:No. Those are the gaskets that are between the valve cover and the plastic things where the pcv lines connect. The fill tube would just be called an o-ring Ah that makes sense. I guess that's a pretty common part then. Probably grab one from an 02 wrx. Thanks again.
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Apr 12, 2014 09:16
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Cat Terrist posted:A bit more ride height and that would be juuuuuuuuust perfect. I think the rear needs to come down another half inch or so, but thats an awesome combo!
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Apr 12, 2014 23:27
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Anyone have a TD04 sitting around they want to part with? I suspect mine may be on its way out. Not a ton of them available on NASIOC and frankly I trust you guys to gauge any potential shaft play more than some random person who's parting out a WRX. Not really interested in putting in a bigger turbo, I've got a C7 on order and will hopefully get it in the next month so I'm just looking for a reliable winter car.
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Apr 15, 2014 00:37
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So i made the mistake of driving a bugeye WRX, and now i have to own a bugeye WRX. Ive got my eye on this guy.. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4414090684.html any thoughts? I was looking to find a stock one, but this one has pretty much everything id want to do already done. And it all seems clean and responsibly done. Ive emailed back and forth with the seller, and all the regular maintenance is done, so it could be alright. Plus he sounds like a pretty normal guy. Ive driven a few other WRXs, but no modded ones. Anything specific I should watch out for? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 01:09
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Hey guys, I've got a question. Locally there's a usdm 05 STI 6 speed with 130k km on it that's listed for $1600. The guy wants to take the dccd out to put in his legacy spec b while taking the diff from that and selling the trans with the spec b center diff (from what I can dig up it's just the standard 4kg viscous that's in practically every mt Subaru) hence why it's at that price. This seems like a good deal, and it does simplify my wiring as I don't have to worry about getting an aftermarket dccd controller, but the trick center diff is one of the big selling points for the 6 speed. Big question is what are people's opinions on this? Will I be kicking myself in the future for not having a proper dccd? 3.9 gearing so it simplifies the install too as I can leave the rear alone and just throw a 1.5 way cusco diff. Front I still have to go custom axles and an auto subie driveshaft but that was a given either way. Seems like a lot of pluses going this route with the biggest draw back being the center diff.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:04
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You can't swap the tail section of the spec.B 6 speed with an STI, they for some reason decided to use a completely different spline setup. You can swap the entire transmission, though. Note that the gearing is very different between the two, and the spec.B trans has an open front diff, and yes, as you said, a 4kg/mm visc center.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:08
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hedgegnome posted:So i made the mistake of driving a bugeye WRX, and now i have to own a bugeye WRX. Ive got my eye on this guy.. Whenever I see a car with a laundry list of mods I steer clear. Maybe they were done really well and its been taken care of, but the fact remains that you don't do those things to a car to drive it nicely, you do that to drive the poo poo out of it. Nothing at all wrong with driving the poo poo out of a car I just wouldn't want to be the next owner.
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Apr 15, 2014 05:14
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hedgegnome posted:So i made the mistake of driving a bugeye WRX, and now i have to own a bugeye WRX. Ive got my eye on this guy.. Those are some pretty standard mods, my bugeye is similar except for the audio and throttle body bypass (never heard of that before, I don't think that's a popular mod). Pretty high price for that many miles on a wagon, maybe for a sedan that price would be a little more reasonable. Specifically, make sure the timing belt was done with the idler pulleys and water pump.
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Apr 15, 2014 13:07
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hedgegnome posted:So i made the mistake of driving a bugeye WRX, and now i have to own a bugeye WRX. Ive got my eye on this guy.. AVOID. Way too many mods to be driven nicely.
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Apr 15, 2014 13:14
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I'm shooting to do my timing belt within the next week or two on my 06 Impreza Outback Sport with 105k miles. Should I invest in a bearing puller or is it unnecessary? Anyone know of a list of tools required for this job? Pretty sure only thing I need to buy is a torque wrench, but would like to make sure.
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Apr 15, 2014 18:54
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Fish Shalami posted:I'm shooting to do my timing belt within the next week or two on my 06 Impreza Outback Sport with 105k miles. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html There you go. I double checked teeth count of 44/47 along with the timing belt marks when I did my re-shortblock job.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:31
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Awhile back when I did my head gasket job, I sheared off a bolt on my front lower cam bearing cap, bolt (B) in the picture below: This has caused oil to leak past the cam seal inside the timing cover, enough that it has coated the oil pan and the Y-pipe on the exhaust with oil. Around town it doesn't do much other than leave a quarter-sized oil spot everywhere I go, but on the highway the oil gets blown back onto the exhaust, and it starts smoking pretty embarrassingly when I come off of the highway at the first light I stop at. Since I am an inherently lazy person and don't want to jack up (or even remove, there may not be enough room) the engine to drill out a bolt and heli-coil it, I have rednecked a solution. Two hose clamps, one on top of the other as a safety, around the entire bearing cap, like so:  I am a horrible person.
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Apr 15, 2014 21:57
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