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Hey there guys I am having a problem with my vibrochamp. No sound comes out unless I crank the volume all the way and even then it is very quite. Any ideas on the problem? Thanks
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Apr 7, 2014 22:41
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Jackson1160 posted:Hey there guys I am having a problem with my vibrochamp. No sound comes out unless I crank the volume all the way and even then it is very quite. Any ideas on the problem? Thanks Tubes are shot most likely?
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Apr 7, 2014 22:50
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I was out shopping with a friend today and we tried out a Blackstar HT Metal 5HR. What a nice sounding distortion, and we managed to get some AC30 style crunch out of it that sounded A+. We also tried out the Line 6 AmpliFi, which was pretty cool too, seems like a good value for a fairly versatile modeling amp. Does anyone own one here? How are they to live with?
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Apr 10, 2014 02:11
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I need help. I can't think of a way to accomplish what I want, which means it may be nonexistent. But, I thought I'd ask you guys just in case. I want to use the effects (delay, pitch shift, octave, etc) of my digital modelling head (Fender Mustang V V.2) on my Orange Crush Pro CR120H head. I want the gain of the Orange, but the effects of the Mustang. Both heads have FX loops and line outs. The Mustang has XLR outs and aux in. I also have a stereo loop pedal Digitech Jamman Express XT Solo if that helps the equation at all. i only have one cab (Bugera 412BK). The Orange Crush Pro is in the mail and will be here today, so that's why I haven't tested anything. My thought was the FX send of the Orange to the FX return of the Mustang, but I'm pretty sure FX Returns (Power Amp In, basically) are "effectsless".
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Apr 10, 2014 12:07
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If it has multiple inputs try running it directly into the high-gain option of the mustang. I'm not familiar with those, but I can tell you that you can expect some pretty drastic signal loss if you're just going to use the FX loop. At least that was the case with me and my peavy /orange setup i have. I settled with pretty much straight into the Peavy, FX out, Directly into the orange, and no return because it just muddied the sound too much for my taste.
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Apr 10, 2014 12:56
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gargamale posted:I need help. I can't think of a way to accomplish what I want, which means it may be nonexistent. But, I thought I'd ask you guys just in case. Run into the Orange, run FX loop into the mustang preamp in and plug the preamp out back into the fx loop of the orange? This is the only way I can even imagine doing this especially not with one infront of me.
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Apr 10, 2014 13:35
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Smash it Smash hit posted:Run into the Orange, run FX loop into the mustang preamp in and plug the preamp out back into the fx loop of the orange? This is the only way I can even imagine doing this especially not with one infront of me. By the way, I checked the manual for that Orange Crush CR120H, and I don't see a line out anywhere on it, are you sure? Either way, it shouldn't be necessary to accomplish this. Eh, did a bunch of editing, the best way I think you can do this with those two pieces is to FIRST set up a pristinely clean patch on the Mustang, NO overdrive, NO breakup and absolutely flat EQ. Guitar -> Orange Input -> Orange FX Send -> Mustang Input -> Mustang FX Send -> Orange FX Return -> Speaker This way you're using the gain stage of the Orange, sending it to the Mustang where you've basically removed as much coloring as possible from the preamp THERE, passing it through the FX processing on the mustang and sending the signal back to the Orange FX return. (Not an attempt to be condescending here, but basically FX loops TYPICALLY take the guitars signal that's been processed by the preamp, adding distortion/eq/etc and allow an insertion point immediately prior to the signal passing into the amplification section. This allows you to add modulation/time effects AFTER preamp, which is generally preferable.) (BTW, that Orange head isn't designed to be run without a speaker, unless I happened to look at the wrong PDF, so don't try to just use it as a preamp only.) I'm still working on my first pot of coffee and it's a busy morning, but that's pretty basically how it can work for you.
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Apr 10, 2014 17:51
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iostream.h posted:More than likely you'll be bypassing the FX stages as well (depending on where they are). There's no reason NOT to try this, however, but the easy check is to just plug your guitar into the FX return, see if you have FX in the amplified signal, if YES, then you can do whatever you want, if NO then you'll need to run through the input on the Mustang, but this isn't necessarily the demon it's sometimes made out to be. Thanks for all the help guys; goons always come through when you need it. I lurk a lot and am usually amazed at the insane knowledge being displayed in this thread. The Orange CR120H has two speaker outs that say 16OHM below each output and (Minimum Total Impedance 8 OHM) below that. The Mustang does in fact have a Preamp amp model, that sounds like what I'd need to use. No condescension detecting at all, I was just unsure as to where the digital effect layer lied in the chain (with the preamp or post preamp with the power amp).
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Apr 10, 2014 20:41
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gargamale posted:Thanks for all the help guys; goons always come through when you need it. I lurk a lot and am usually amazed at the insane knowledge being displayed in this thread. Edit: Oh, and the reason I said 'it might not matter' is that on one of my tubes amps I had a speaker output modified to be a DI. Even when I'm USING the DI function I MUST maintain a load on the actual speaker output to avoid frying poo poo. They're all a little different, but unless the amp specifically disconnects/shunts/magics the power output when a DI is used, ALWAYS keep a load on those outputs. I won't even plug an amp in unless it's connected to a cab/dummy. I only gave the Mustang manual a cursory glance, but I'd bet $2.50 that the FX are immediately prior to the FX loop and thus the power amp, that's pretty typical and I can't think of anything offhand that's any different (or that'd even be feasible). What you're doing isn't anything weird or 'out there' by any stretch, incidentally. There are a thousand different ways of patching in an FX processor and/or preamp into another amp, the biggest thing is to be careful when stacking preamps because, especially in high-gain situations, the noise can get pretty out of hand quickly. Ultimately, you'd be better off getting a stand-alone FX processor, throwing it in the loop of that Orange and calling it a day. iostream.h fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 20:58
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gargamale posted:Thanks for all the help guys; goons always come through when you need it. I lurk a lot and am usually amazed at the insane knowledge being displayed in this thread. So as I was writing this my orange amp came in the mail. I just tried to plug the guitar straight into the Mustang FX Return and I get no effects (delay/octave/reverb/etc). Probably a deal breaker at this point. gargamale fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 20:59
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gargamale posted:So as I was writing this my orange amp came in the mail. I just tried to plug the guitar straight into the Mustang FX Return and I get no effects (delay/octave/reverb/etc). Probably a deal breaker at this point. Guitar -> Orange Input ->Orange FX Send -> Mustang Input -> Mustang FX Send -> Orange FX Return -> NOISE Again, just set the Mustang to as clean, flat and transparent a tone as possible BY ITSELF (not using the orange) before you patch it into the loop. That way you're only (well, in theory) adding effects and NOT the Mustang preamp tones to your signal. Edit: Or, depending on what you're trying to accomplish, sell the Mustang and pick up a TC Electronic G-Major, throw it in the FX loop of the Orange and call it a day. You'll be THRILLED.
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Apr 10, 2014 21:03
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iostream.h posted:I mentioned the DI because in your OP you said "Both heads have FX loops and line outs." and since that Orange doesn't (and even if it DID, it might not matter) those speaker outs MUST have a load on them (a cab or dummy load of some sort) otherwise you'll trash your output transformers (even though SS amps are a little more tolerant than tube amps are). That's my bad using the term line out to mean speaker out. I see what I did. Good call.
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Apr 10, 2014 21:03
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iostream.h posted:Nope, not at all: Holy poop, it worked. Thanks, man. I was just trying to accomplish not having to buy anything else! Since the Mustang does everything I need effects-wise.
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Apr 10, 2014 21:27
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gargamale posted:Since the Mustang does everything I need
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Apr 10, 2014 21:29
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Remulak posted:But not everything you want! Well said. Yeah it doesn't do high gain or be an Orange!
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Apr 10, 2014 21:38
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gargamale posted:Holy poop, it worked. Thanks, man. I was just trying to accomplish not having to buy anything else! Since the Mustang does everything I need effects-wise. Awesome! Glad it worked out for you. 
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Apr 10, 2014 21:52
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iostream.h posted:Awesome! Glad it worked out for you. reading iostream and agreed have let me be very  to my music buds locally
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Apr 10, 2014 22:30
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iostream.h posted:Nope, not at all: drat. Can I do the same with my Line 6 and Fender Super Sonic?
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Apr 10, 2014 22:46
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:drat. Whether it'll SOUND like rear end or not, that's hard to tell, best thing to do is experiment! Some of my favorite sounds have come from scribbling down ideas for routing my signal and then just trying it. As long as you stick to the safety basics (don't run speaker outs into instrument inputs, don't run a cab with no load on speakers, etc) you really can't do much to gently caress something up. Hahaha, that's awesome. You REALLY want to bust your brain, Agreed's the way to go, I literally have txt files, and scribbled notes from our conversations. Dude's a veritable font of poo poo to know. Smash it Smash hit posted:reading iostream and agreed have let me be very
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Apr 10, 2014 23:23
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iostream.h posted:You REALLY want to bust your brain, Agreed.txt ... Dude's a veritable font of poo poo ... See if I tell YOU how cool the RG13 is internally now  I'm going to go play the CFH solo and it's gonna sound so authentic, forget my problems the pantera way (I will need a lot of alcohol for this...)
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Apr 11, 2014 15:43
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Agreed posted:See if I tell YOU how cool the RG13 is internally now Hahaha, well drat who's going to make me spend money on stuff I can't live without that I NEEEEEED that I didn't know I needed a few minutes ago??? I've been watching videos on that thing, SOUND CLIPS.
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Apr 11, 2014 16:57
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Turns out the issue I've been having with my AC30CCH and the "missing" screw is that the screw was actually snapped off at some point and the previous owner had tried drilling down to extract it. He obviously didn't succeed and so the 1/4 that's left of this ~4" long screw is stuck deep inside the amp. The previous owner drilled a wide enough hole for a screw extractor, but there are no screw extractors long enough to reach down in there. I've been told that my only option would be to drill away at the screw until it's gone and that solution seems too crude. Is there some kind of hollow drill bit that would allow me to bore around the screw and extract something that would resemble a core sample, taking the screw with it? Otherwise I'm just going to have an amp that can't be worked on and can't be sold.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:16
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Chalets the Baka posted:Turns out the issue I've been having with my AC30CCH and the "missing" screw is that the screw was actually snapped off at some point and the previous owner had tried drilling down to extract it. He obviously didn't succeed and so the 1/4 that's left of this ~4" long screw is stuck deep inside the amp. The previous owner drilled a wide enough hole for a screw extractor, but there are no screw extractors long enough to reach down in there. I've been told that my only option would be to drill away at the screw until it's gone and that solution seems too crude. What part of the amp exactly is the screw? Sorry I am having a bit of a time visualizing it.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:45
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Smash it Smash hit posted:What part of the amp exactly is the screw? Sorry I am having a bit of a time visualizing it.  At each of the four corners at the bottom of this amp, right next to the rubber feet, are these long screws that reach up through the wood of the amp case and into the wood of the chassis, holding it in place. There is a tiny gap between the chassis and the casing where you can see the screw still holding the two pieces of wood in place, which you cannot see in that image, which is how I know the screw is still there (besides not being able to pull the chassis out). I don't have any images of the actual amp at the moment to demonstrate exactly how it is, but basically just imagine the rectangle with four long screws in each corner that go straight up and they're holding two separate blocks of wood almost flush together. The particular screw in question is the one on the right back corner, on the opposite end that's facing the camera. Assuming I can get the reverb tank out, I might be able to fit a hacksaw of some sort in there and just cut through the screw, but it is a very tight space to work with and might not be possible. That's the only other thing I can think of to get this thing out.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:58
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Remove the other three screws and just pull the bottom piece of wood off. The head of the screw is what does the majority of the holding, and since that is gone it should come apart easy, and if there's any part of the old screw left sticking out you should be able to remove it with some pliers.
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Apr 11, 2014 21:19
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Can you take the whole chassis out and just either work on it from there or just rehouse the amp?
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Apr 12, 2014 03:52
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Any tips on converting a combo into a head?
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Apr 15, 2014 01:32
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Measure twice, cut once. e: if you're tolexing/carpeting the new cab, flooring adhesive works really well
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Apr 15, 2014 04:06
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I just got a Randall RX120RH and I'm plugging my MetalZone into it and I'm never looking back.  The moral of this story for shredders is to just to just go SS. The price and performance ratio are just phenomenal.
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Apr 15, 2014 04:23
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DataSage posted:The moral of this story for shredders is to just to just go SS. The price and performance ratio are just phenomenal. Seriously, it sounds loving ridiculously good.
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Apr 15, 2014 04:36
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On the other hand nothing sounds like an Ampeg VH-140 (not even the various Crate versions). It's one of those things like the HM-2 that nobody's been able to fully replicate.
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Apr 15, 2014 04:50
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There are tons of really great solid state amps and the best part is they're all (well most of them are) incredibly cheap relative to the performance you get.
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Apr 15, 2014 05:22
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What's the best option if I'm looking for a metal amp that will sound good at home and won't leave me too broke?
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Apr 15, 2014 10:27
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comes along bort posted:On the other hand nothing sounds like an Ampeg VH-140 (not even the various Crate versions). It's one of those things like the HM-2 that nobody's been able to fully replicate. There are like 3 HM2 clones now
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Apr 15, 2014 12:44
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My Fender Super Sonic 112 has developed a faint fizz on the clean channel. Running distortion pedals or the gain channel sounds fine, but clean the sustain is hampered and there is a nasty robotic fizz sound in the background. Very faint but definitely audible. More so when the notes decay. Doesn't seem to be affected by reverb or tone controls. I don't have tubes at the moment to test myself.
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Apr 15, 2014 13:31
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Xabi posted:What's the best option if I'm looking for a metal amp that will sound good at home and won't leave me too broke? You can get a Randall RG-series and they sound fantastic for the price. Generally actually put out their rated wattage, too. I was sad when Peavey discontinued their solid state amps in favor of modeling amps. Yeah, hooray, you've got the ReValver guy running as fast as he can to help, but still, now there's no successor to the XXL and the number of Made In America solid state amps drops dramatically. I have the one-watt (pedal) version of the current RG series from Randall and can confirm that it brings the fuckin' noise like crazy. Here's the cheapest one, which is literally less expensive than several pedals I own. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/randall-rg1003h-100w-solid-state-guitar-head You can pay more for up to 300W of power, but there's really no need to. If 100W won't do it, an extra couple hundred are not going to help. Only splurge for higher wattage models (150W and 300W are available) if you're using really inefficient speakers (and, obviously, speakers that can take a shitload of power - blowing speakers sucks). Crate makes some decent sounding stuff as I recall, and the last time I played a Marshall solid state head, well, it wasn't as good as their early '90s solid state amps (those things were the poo poo for metal!), it still sounded good. Better than their modern "Valvestate" amps imo.
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Apr 15, 2014 13:40
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Xabi posted:What's the best option if I'm looking for a metal amp that will sound good at home and won't leave me too broke? Micro Terror!
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Apr 15, 2014 15:46
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the wizards beard posted:There are like 3 HM2 clones now More than that actually, but they all sound like the Behringer knockoff.
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Apr 15, 2014 20:48
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There are several quality, great sounding low-watt amps now that make decisions really hard. Laney Ironheart Studio, Engl Ironball, the Randall RD1/5/20 range. Still want a Savage 120. 
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Apr 15, 2014 22:42
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Smash it Smash hit posted:Can you take the whole chassis out and just either work on it from there or just rehouse the amp? No, the chassis is held in place by that screw. The chassis being stuck inside the enclosure is the locus of the issue, because this AC30 needs to be taken apart entirely just to change the tubes. I can't maneuver the chassis in any way to get better access to the screw, either. I tried to get a hacksaw in there to just saw through the drat thing but the chassis is held too tightly against the enclosure for the blade to be able to get far enough in to even touch the screw. I don't want to have to grind away for 3 hours, turning this screw into dust, just to change some tubes. Basically, I need something like this, but that won't shatter into millions of pieces when you try to use it. Because if that happens I might as well just buy a new amp.
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Apr 16, 2014 19:49
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