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Hace posted:Counter-point: Don't buy a loving $500 780 for 1080p. I should be picking up a single 770 today or tomorrow (if this dude ever gets back to me he sends 1 text every two hours in the same convo) and I'll finally be able to tell then if what I'm saying is stupid or not rather than depend on mismatched benchmarks. But I had a hypothetical question for you since you definitely don't recommend a 780 for 1080p based on earlier. If a 760 was $50, a 770 was $100, a 780 was $150, and a 780ti was $200, would that change your recommendation for 1080p?
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Apr 16, 2014 21:55
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Jose Cuervo posted:Barebones because it only has a single PCI-Express slot and 2 slots for RAM? Or some other reason? I had asked about the differences between H81 and B85 a little while ago when doing a build for my brother who is unlikely going to tinker with or upgrade the computer I built him. The difference between the two just boils down to port/slot configurations really, and a couple features here and there that aren't dealbreakers. I don't think there is a discernible difference in performance between the two chipsets. If someone is on an extremely tight budget or just wants to build an entry level Steam Machine (which is what I'm currently in the process of), I feel like H81 is fine. Especially if you can get the board for below $60 without the use of coupons/rebates.
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Apr 16, 2014 21:59
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Fewer USB 3 ports and 6Gb/s ports are the worst parts of H81.
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Apr 16, 2014 21:59
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Jose Cuervo posted:Barebones because it only has a single PCI-Express slot and 2 slots for RAM? Or some other reason? It also uses PCIe 2.0 instead of 3.0, it only has 4 SATA ports (2 of which that are 3Gbps). I've also heard that H81 motherboards also tend to have some corners cut in terms of overall build quality, but I don't know how legitimate that is. Hace fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 22:00
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Hace posted:It also uses PCIe 2.0 instead of 3.0, it only has 4 SATA ports (2 of which that are 3Gbps). I've also heard that H81 motherboards also tend to have some corners cut in terms of overall build quality, but I don't know how legitimate that it. I just got an MSI H81I ITX board to use in my Steam Machine, and build quality is pretty much on par with MSI boards I've used in the past.
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Apr 16, 2014 22:02
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When putting together a new PC is it worth it to reflash the motherboard BIOS to a new version, even if the updates are minor and everything is working fine?
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Apr 16, 2014 22:14
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Caddrel posted:When putting together a new PC is it worth it to reflash the motherboard BIOS to a new version, even if the updates are minor and everything is working fine? I always do, despite the manufacturer warning not to do so if everything works that you usually see. Bios updates can be pretty important though (although sometimes totally not at all). I'm pretty sure they're just covering their rear end in case someone bricks their mobo. Sometimes the changes are well documented, especially the important revisions, if you want to look it up first.
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Apr 16, 2014 22:17
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Caddrel posted:When putting together a new PC is it worth it to reflash the motherboard BIOS to a new version, even if the updates are minor and everything is working fine? Ignoarints posted:I always do, despite the manufacturer warning not to do so if everything works that you usually see. Bios updates can be pretty important though (although sometimes totally not at all). I'm pretty sure they're just covering their rear end in case someone bricks their mobo. Sometimes the changes are well documented, especially the important revisions, if you want to look it up first. I agree with Ignoarints. If I'm building a from-scratch system, and have a compy/lappy to fall back on, I usually do update the BIOS (as long as the BIOS the motherboard has is older than the one I got. Sometimes, if the planets align, they could be up to date already.) However, after that, it's the whole "ain't broke, don't fix" thing for me.
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Apr 16, 2014 23:18
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Touchfuzzy posted:I agree with Ignoarints. If I'm building a from-scratch system, and have a compy/lappy to fall back on, I usually do update the BIOS (as long as the BIOS the motherboard has is older than the one I got. Sometimes, if the planets align, they could be up to date already.) Speaking of... this reminded me to check mine again and there is a new bios out for mine "Improves Overclocking" 
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Apr 17, 2014 03:03
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Ignoarints posted:I wouldn't wait on higher end nvidia stuff if you're looking to upgrade any time soon. There is no indication that anything fun will come out in a long while, and a few hints here and there that there are supply or production delays. On a Tom's Hardware benchmark index (100 being a titan, 0 being nothing), the jump from 760 to 770 is 6.9 dollars/index point; the jump from 770 to 780 is 36 dollars/index, so relatively it's >5x more expensive per index point. From a 760 to a 770, that's a 39% increase in price for a 21% increase in power. For a 770-780, it's a 56% increase in price for a 7 % increase in performance. But that's their index number. On and Aandtech Crysis 3 bench, it's the 760-770 is a 39% increase in price for a 21% increase in performance. The 770 to 780 is a 56% increase in price for a 12% increase in performance. I'd have the imagine that there's a better marginal use of the additional 200 dollars you'd need to spend than very weakly future proofing your machine. Like I understand nvidia is being slow with updates for new cards, but you'd likely end up better off waiting. For instance, Radeon's HD 7970 which came out in June 2012 was a 500 dollar car. The R9 280X, which is basically identical in performance (isn't it just the same card re-branded?) came out October 2013 at 300. October 2013 was the last upgrade round for general Radeons, with a few local price point releases since. At the $500 price point AMD has gone from Nov 09 > March 10 > Jan 12 > Oct 13. Nvidia has gone Mar 10 > Nov 10 > Mar 12 > May 13. 2011 was a slow year. At the 300 dollar price point (a 760~) Nvidia is March 10 > May 10 > Dec 10 > Nov 11 > Aug 12 > May 13. Witcher will be coming out ~Feb 2014 (Why? Doesn't make sense. The sweet spot window for post-christmas release is mid-late March [see Titanfall and half of Bioware's modern catalogue] so I'd expect a small delay on that too). That gives you 10 months before it comes out and a year already since the last Nvidia card released at the 300 dollar price. I wouldn't expect a major release necessarily from AMD but with 10 months left it seems very likely still. What I'm saying is that it's entirely possible to buy a 760 today and something as powerful as a 780 during a Christmas sale and spend less than you would on a 780 today and likely get a better card out of it. E: All of this poo poo is in a spreadsheet I created because when piecing together how my future PC will look I went on an insane data spree and murdered many hours of my free time.
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Apr 17, 2014 03:27
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This ITX build was the first time in the 10+ years I've been putting computers together where I had to update the BIOS in order to have my videocard detected. Almost thought I had to RMA my motherboard after testing the integrated graphics and doing all the cable management. That would have sucked, haha.
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Apr 17, 2014 03:28
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MJBuddy posted:On a Tom's Hardware benchmark index (100 being a titan, 0 being nothing), the jump from 760 to 770 is 6.9 dollars/index point; the jump from 770 to 780 is 36 dollars/index, so relatively it's >5x more expensive per index point. From a 760 to a 770, that's a 39% increase in price for a 21% increase in power. For a 770-780, it's a 56% increase in price for a 7 % increase in performance. I was just basing it off of 2 benchmarks are so earlier in the thread (or gpu thread). For example Arma 3, 11 fps from 760->770 (~40-51) and 9 fps from 770->780 (51-60). This is just from memory but it was about that. It just happened to work that way for that particular game which someone was asking about and the cost to jump from 770 to a 780 was twice as much as the jump from 760 to a 770 at that moment (thus the crude formula). However for something more reasonable since arma is a bit harsh I'll make up an exmaple. Assuming 60hz at 1080p, say BF4 runs at 55 fps with a 760, ~70 fps with a 770, and 80 with a 780 - and if you still had the money to do so and this was the kind of game you cared about - owning a 780 isn't a waste there imo. When you actually play online just because you average 70 fps doesn't mean you're going to get it. Online play is something so rarely benchmarked as well (for good reason, it's not completely consistent for numbers when you involved other people in your game) but in my experience having some overhead is important for smooth gameplay. I started logging some data since I'm changing cards as well and I'm interested in single card vs sli and 660ti vs 770 and all this stuff. This is not polished obviously in the least, and really its about something else (preliminary 1440p vs 1080p info for myself) but it might also explain what I mean as a side effect. The green graph here is 5 minutes of 1080p, frame limited (this really does help overall performance for me) at 60fps, maximum settings and AA in Battlefield 4. I know that the cards are capable of pushing ~120 fps in this scenario but I was going for a constant-explosion-crazy server which from experience puts me at around 90fps from these cards if it weren't limited.  The red graph is the same deal but at 1440p. When not limited it'd hover around 70 fps in this situation.  At first glance they almost look the same. Even the frame per second average was 60 fps for both. But the 1080p graph gameplay, despite what it looks like, was virtually flawless, when the 1440p gameplay was mostly flawless - until it wasn't. When it wasn't, it was always when there was suddenly a lot of activity to process (which usually involved my death). For me these are the absolute most important times for me not to experience frame drops. When running at 1080p the drops were so quick and over with it had little effect on my actual experience. When running 1440p however it stutter up just long enough to gently caress everything up. As I said these aren't polished and weren't even meant for this (I'd not have frame limited them for one thing, and its the same cards at different resolutions vs different cards at the same) but the difference between a card that is technically capable of a 90 fps average vs one that is just capable of a 70 fps average can have an effect, even when your monitor is only 60hz AND if you frame limit too. On paper it looks like both held at 60fps which is what they were set to, but reality was different. In the same way, a single 660ti that I had months ago would technically reach 60-65 fps but the performance was just too poor (for me!) which is what prompted me to SLI. Now all that said, and I really was trying to be clear on this before, this is just how I feel about it. This is one person's subjective standards for basically one fairly gpu intensive game, an online first person shooter at that, and it isn't going to apply to a whole lot of people. The other glaring issue here is that I don't want to turn settings down. At all. I move a little on aliasing, ambient occlusion, but I like to keep things at max because that's the experience I really enjoy. Games have gotten pretty enough for me to kind of fall into them and once I turn settings down that starts to fade. Anyways that's all. I can't stress enough that most people wouldn't be too happy spending $500 on a 780 for what they get for it. Also a lot of people might not see any benefits at all over a 770 depending on what they do or play. But when someone has the extra 150 to spend and could have a use for it, I don't immediately think its a waste to have a 780 for 1080p. Of course I haven't had one and that's another big caveat, but just based on benchmarks that place it at around 80 fps for games like this I feel like it can be justifiable. There will likely be an actual difference, one that might matter to some. On the flip side a 780ti might push 110 fps or more and I think that would be a total waste of money - money that can be spent on something else or just nothing at all (for this example). And in all this defense, I personally don't even want one but that's because I believe $500 is better spent, in my case, on two 760's. And I'm about to drop what I need to make two 770's happen which in the end will cost even more - just to get smooth online gameplay at 1440p. I know this is rambley as hell but I don't want to proofread and make it a better post because I'm super tired, sorry! I hope I covered my side well enough though
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Apr 17, 2014 04:40
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This really doesn't seem like the place for this discussion...
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Apr 17, 2014 04:44
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beejay posted:This really doesn't seem like the place for this discussion... Probably not but it is technically about a recommendation for someone so ... kind of.
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Apr 17, 2014 04:48
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So which brand of 770 should I get? The 780 just seems far too much for a GPU, but I don't know anything about EVGA, MSI ASUS, and Gigabyte.
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Apr 17, 2014 05:10
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Not gigabyte.
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Apr 17, 2014 05:16
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Serephina posted:Not gigabyte. For nVidia it's not an issue, the Greenlight program mandates that no one can build GPU's using inferior parts compared to the reference design. Gigabyte can't cut corners on parts. EVGA is considered the top manufacturer of nVidia GPU's right now from what I've seen, but at least in terms of reliability everything is fine. Even the lesser known brands like PNY or Zotac are just as reliable as the big boys like Asus or EVGA, if not slightly more so because they don't go for more exotic cooling designs to meet a slightly lower price point than the big boys. I personally own a Zotac GTX 770 and it's worked just fine. The Not-Gigabyte mantra is more focused on their cheaper motherboards where there are no such protections in place.
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Apr 17, 2014 05:26
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Tiger direct has a promo code for the PNY OC version of their 770 right now for $317
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Apr 17, 2014 05:38
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Dude I don't have anything against you but you sure can post.
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Apr 17, 2014 05:52
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Looking to game on a budget. I really only casually play games, lately it's been Diablo 3 and League of Legends, so I don't need a ridiculously high-end machine that could run all the next gen games. I like having a high framerate, the detail level isn't really a big deal but it'd be nice to see some higher level graphics. I have been out of the loop on PC building for years now since my rig had lasted me so long, so I'm clueless when it comes to what's good for a fair price. I'm looking to spend maybe $650.00 USD. I don't mind prebuilt machines if anyone has any recommendations. I know this post is horribly vague but I've been living under a rock for awhile in the PC world. Can you help a goon out? PsychicToaster fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 06:01
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PsychicToaster posted:Looking to game on a budget. I really only casually play games, lately it's been Diablo 3 and League of Legends, so I don't need a ridiculously high-end machine that could run all the next gen games. I like having a high framerate, the detail level isn't really a big deal but it'd be nice to see some higher level graphics. I have been out of the loop on PC building for years now since my rig had lasted me so long, so I'm clueless when it comes to what's good for a fair price. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($118.97 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock B85M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($78.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Red 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($129.50 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $743.39 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-17 01:20 EDT-0400) This is kinda the minimum I'd recommend, although I know it's a little over your budget. I assume you have a screen, mouse, keyboard, and headphones/speakers. If you have a windows licence you can transfer, feel free, that will save you money. Add wireless and/or a dvd drive if you need those things. If you desperately need to pare it back even more, you could take out the SSD, but I strongly recommend not doing that.
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Apr 17, 2014 06:23
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The Lord Bude posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks For about the same price you can get a Core i5 Inspiron 3000 system from Dell if he's willing to move up to ~750 dollars, that's including buying the SSD and GPU separately. The knock against the Dell system would be that it would have a less powerful PSU, plenty for a GTX 750 Ti but he'd need to replace the PSU at a later date if he wanted to get a more powerful GPU.
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Apr 17, 2014 06:35
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PsychicToaster posted:Looking to game on a budget. I really only casually play games, lately it's been Diablo 3 and League of Legends, so I don't need a ridiculously high-end machine that could run all the next gen games. I like having a high framerate, the detail level isn't really a big deal but it'd be nice to see some higher level graphics. I have been out of the loop on PC building for years now since my rig had lasted me so long, so I'm clueless when it comes to what's good for a fair price. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($180.49 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.20 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($149.03 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($62.54 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) Total: $646.23 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-17 01:46 EDT-0400)04-17 01:44 EDT-0400)[/i]
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Apr 17, 2014 06:46
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If you get an i5, or even an i3 if you really don't care about graphical features, you'll be able to run League or Diablo III on the integrated graphics card. I just built a computer for my s/o that runs Diablo III 1080p on medium/lowish surprisingly well.
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Apr 17, 2014 06:53
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Thanks for the replies! I appreciate the advice, I'll definitely look into spending a bit more too.
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Apr 17, 2014 09:25
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So, the rest of my parts are coming tomorrow and I'll finally assembly a *new* computer into this Obsidian 350D case, instead of my old one re-housed. yay! Trouble: there's been some INFERNAL VIBRATION coming out of the case that I've been too lazy to hunt down properly, but it's not the case itself but rather something in it. Should I be looking to get rubber washers or something when I put my new mobo in? It's really annoying, much louder than eg an old HDD.
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Apr 17, 2014 11:08
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What do you guys think of this card? Gigabyte 770 GPU. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4629#sp It has three fans and my buddy recommends the gigabyte brand. Never bought an Nvidia GPU before. My current AMD 5870 only has one fan so it would be nice to get something quieter. I'ts currently between that Gigabyte card and this MSI card: http://www.msi.com/product/vga/N770_TF_2GD5OC.html#overview They cost the same in Sweden. Any thoughts?
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Apr 17, 2014 13:19
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Serephina posted:So, the rest of my parts are coming tomorrow and I'll finally assembly a *new* computer into this Obsidian 350D case, instead of my old one re-housed. yay! What does the noise sound like? is it a metalic rattling? and if so do you have a Noctua Cooler?
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Apr 17, 2014 13:19
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Torabi posted:What do you guys think of this card? Gigabyte 770 GPU. MSI currently has the quietest cooler, although it doesn't perform quite as well in absolute terms compared to the EVGA cooler as far as cooling goes. I'd take MSI over Gigabyte any day. It doesn't matter with Nvidia graphics cards because Nvidia enforces certain minimum standards, but when it comes to other stuff you should avoid Gigabyte products, they have a shoddy reputation.
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Apr 17, 2014 13:22
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Torabi posted:What do you guys think of this card? Gigabyte 770 GPU. I won't pretend to be an expert, but I believe Gigabyte's Windforce cooling solution is generally reviewed very well, both for noise and cooling performance. Things might have changed though. I read that review back when it was first being introduced.
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Apr 17, 2014 13:36
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Can I bribe someone here to part-pick for me? Is that a thing? Like $5 paypal or a steam game was my hope. Basically, I've just moved out of my parents house and I need to build a small PC to keep there. Its only use will be to stream/transcode video via Plex to my parents Roku, my iPad, laptop, etc. Obviously, because of that, I'd like it to be as cheap as possible(They'll buy the stuff, but they can't spend a ton either) without obviously choking on 1080p transcoding. The only requirements, really, is that is holds at least 1, if not two, full size HDDs (I could get an enclosure for a second) and for it to be (obviously) somewhat small in size. To be able to sit nicely on the same shelf with the bluray player, receiver, etc would be grand. The bribe is mainly because I've been so busy moving and helping with a sickly grandparent, coupled with the fact that I've only built full on gaming desktops and I'd likely grab much more than I need for such a simple task. Thanks so much, all!
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Apr 17, 2014 13:45
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DarkestLite posted:Can I bribe someone here to part-pick for me? Is that a thing? Like $5 paypal or a steam game was my hope. Forgot the name of the kind of pc. But my sister has one. Those tiny living room pcs should do the trick. Stick an i3 processor in it and I think you'd be good to go. At least the latest haswell i3 has no trouble doing day to day work and showing movies in 1080p. But those might be a bit more expensive compared to building a pc yourself. Otherwise, just go with an i3 haswell and no need for anything other than the integrated graphics. drat I wish I could remember what they are called. God drat it. H something PC? Edit: Also thanks for the opinions on the gpus I posted about earlier. More thoughts are welcome! Boar It fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 14:05
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So my XP box that gets used basically for playing DOTA and browsing the web should probably get replaced... I'm on a pretty tight budget and don't really know what I'm doing. Based on choosemypc.net, I got this: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3kKK9 Any thoughts? I haven't built a desktop since 2007 so I'm a little rusty. I'd really like to keep my total cost around $600. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($118.97 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI B85M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($61.48 @ Newegg) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($109.99 @ Newegg) Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($94.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $589.38 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-17 09:30 EDT-0400)
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Apr 17, 2014 14:30
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ZentraediElite posted:So my XP box that gets used basically for playing DOTA and browsing the web should probably get replaced... I'm on a pretty tight budget and don't really know what I'm doing. Based on choosemypc.net, I got this: Get a 750ti instead of a 7850 get a nice 400w Seasonic power supply instead of that EVGA thing The Asrock B85m-pro4 is only marginally more expensive and more fully featured than the motherboard you chose Seagate does some dodgy stuff with their hard drives, get a WD blue instead Swap out your case for the nicer Coolermaster N200 If you could find room in your budget for a 120gig Samsung 840evo SSD you really should, having a SSD is a life changing experience.
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Apr 17, 2014 14:42
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DarkestLite posted:Can I bribe someone here to part-pick for me? Is that a thing? Like $5 paypal or a steam game was my hope. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($118.97 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock H81M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC) Case: Silverstone ML04B HTPC Case ($69.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic 300W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Mwave) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $500.89 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-17 09:46 EDT-0400) Others in the thread might be able to find a cheaper setup, but for your uses would something like this work (and be cheaper)? http://www.amazon.com/Sony-NSZ-GS7-Internet-Player-Google/dp/B008BDBPTS?tag=s601000020-20 .
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Apr 17, 2014 14:52
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The Lord Bude posted:Get a 750ti instead of a 7850 Doesn't the 7850 outperform the 750ti?
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Apr 17, 2014 16:01
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The Lord Bude posted:Get a 750ti instead of a 7850 So how about this? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($118.97 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock B85M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($78.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($129.50 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: SeaSonic 400W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Mwave) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($94.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $652.41 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-17 11:03 EDT-0400) What's the rub on Geil memory? I've never heard of them.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:04
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Hace posted:Doesn't the 7850 outperform the 750ti? Supposed to be as good as a 660, which should be better than a 750ti. At $109 a 7850 seems like a great deal. edit: then again, that's still a great 750ti price.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:07
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ZentraediElite posted:So how about this? Memory is memory, doesn't really matter. While Seasonic is nice, that PSU is super barebones, to the point of not even having braided cables. I'd consider getting this: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1550sxxb9 XFX PSUs are just Seasonic rebrands, so aren't sacrificing quality in the slightest. e: Also someone is going to disagree with me, but if I were you I'd spring for an i5 and forget the SSD honestly. They're very nice, but hardly essential. You can always add one in the future anyway, whereas you're stuck with your CPU for a good long while. Hace fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 16:22
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Hace posted:Doesn't the 7850 outperform the 750ti? They're pretty comparable; I'd give a slight edge to the 7850 based on a few dramatic situations where it beats the pants off the 750Ti, whereas the 750Ti has none of those. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1076?vs=1130 But yeah, the 7850 is cheaper and more powerful.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:28
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