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LOCOST LOCOST LOCOST
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Mar 28, 2014 20:01
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| # ? May 15, 2024 07:06 |
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So I see you bought an exocet. The software company I work for now, Kevin used for work for us. He left a few years ago, before I was here, to start Exomotive. He's very good friends with a couple guys here, believe he was a designer for us. I have a coworker tryin to sell a miatia without a body. Want it? heh.
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Apr 1, 2014 20:29
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That's awesome. I have a design of my own I want to build some day, but that's years away. I happen to have a wrecked Miata thanks to my brother, haha. There's pictures of it a few pages back.
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Apr 3, 2014 03:40
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What has 23.5hp, 12cc Hydrogear pumps, 18,340fpm tip speed, and both weighs and costs more then the exocet base kit? Pictures Saturday. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Apr 3, 2014 |
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Apr 3, 2014 03:42
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RPM - CNC table / mill. FPM - Lawn tractor.
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Apr 3, 2014 08:30
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FPM is correct. Fixed!
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Apr 3, 2014 17:50
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Air compressor update: The new pulley showed up and it works great. I've got a sloooow bleed down, but that's ok. I'll take all the fittings apart, clean, and re-teflon them.  Some actual car work got done last night. I'm going to have to pull the motor to install the new engine mounts and reseal the oil pan  .  I forgot how easy it is working on single turbo cars.  In prep for tomorrow, a friend loaned me his tilting mini trailer. His kids had last used it and brought it back with a bent fender and as I learned- no working lights. It also was full of wasps.    At this point I went to a local farm supply store and spent $30 on a complete re-wire kit.  Apparently I can still tip a trailer on it's side. I do not recommend this.   It worked! 
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Apr 5, 2014 05:49
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gently caress trailer light wiring and every thing associated with it. I gave up on it and bought a set of magnetic lights that I use at my folks house with a few zip ties. Instant working lights.
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Apr 5, 2014 06:24
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I like to use brakleen or bbq lighter fluid as wasp killer, it doesn't leave nasty nerve-poison residue. Takes some paints off, though, so be careful.
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Apr 5, 2014 16:07
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I've had much wasp genocide success with carb cleaner.
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Apr 5, 2014 17:17
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"The Spyder's Thread: Committing Wasp Genocide Since 2013"
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Apr 5, 2014 20:35
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kastein posted:I like to use brakleen or bbq lighter fluid as wasp killer, it doesn't leave nasty nerve-poison residue. Takes some paints off, though, so be careful. Even soapy water will kill the fuckers.
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Apr 5, 2014 20:38
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Rectal Placenta posted:I've had much wasp genocide success with carb cleaner. This was my choice. Mainly because it's what I had around in the new shop.
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Apr 5, 2014 21:40
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Well, I was going to take more pictures, but I'm lazy. Bought a 2013 Hustler X-One 26hp/54" VR4 deck. 11MPH mowing speed,     I already scratched it. Caught a piece of pipe that used to be a grape arbour- I might remove the ROPS entirely, even folded down I'm catching branches. 
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Apr 5, 2014 21:58
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Obvious solution is UHMW sheets on the fold down bar.
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Apr 6, 2014 00:16
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Haha, it actually has them on the deck in quite a few places.
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Apr 6, 2014 19:07
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I've been working on getting the black car out of the shop in the evenings this week. Here's the list of issues it came in with after being worked on by a outta state shop closer to the owner: 1) Unmounted Fuel Pressure Regulator. (idiots) 2) Oil leak. (two stripped bolts) 3) Wants wiring mess cleaned up. (undid everything I did when installed aftermarket fuel system) 4) Wastegate "only" opens at 16.5psi. (idiots) 5) Intercooler hose pops off. (My fault) 6) Wants aftermarket engine mounts installed. Here's the list of issues I found: 1) Tbolt clamps turned facing up, dented hood. 2) Stock coils/wires with 7's and 9's on a 450hp car (wrong plugs). 3) Boost controller installed wrong. 4) Boost controller reference line T'd in to map sensor... 5) Fuel supply line finger tight. 6) Factory fuel pressure regulator vacuum control solenoid tied in to new aftermarket FPR. 7) HKS twin power mounted with velro under the hood. 8) Coil packs not bolted down. First off, I decided to pull the engine to take care of the mounts. drat you FD's and your through oil pan engine mounts.      Already back in the car.  Next up I attacked the harness with my wire cutters. I removed all the twin turbo/control system wiring and heatshrunk/re-taped the harness.        To fix the hose popping off, I made a quick bead forming tool. Works decent.    In lawnmower news, I bought some cheap 27w 4" ATV/Offroad lights.  Holy poo poo are they 1) Huge and 2) Bright as hell. I also cracked the "flexible" rubber discharge chute when I hit my mail box. SOB. the spyder fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Apr 11, 2014 |
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Apr 11, 2014 17:38
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That poor FD. You're doing god's work. Party on.
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Apr 12, 2014 01:30
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Those exhaust studs/holes look like my face when I read that list of poo poo wrong with it.
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Apr 12, 2014 04:45
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 Car updates: 93 R1 (Red): Runs! Just needs to be reassembled. A few vac lines and check valves appear to have fixed the turbos.   94 R2 (Black): Almost back together- still need to TIG the dump tube for the wastegate and rewire everything. 95 Touring (Montego Blue): The engine showed up last night. Hopefully it can go back together this weekend. Shop update: We suck at construction. The last window has been installed.   Ignore our lovely wrap job. Ugg.    Oh and I finally wired up my plasma cutter.  the spyder fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 21:35
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I really need to stop looking at this thread. Every time I do, I end up on craigslists looking at rx7's....
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Apr 16, 2014 23:06
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You should stop, unless you're local and want to start bugging me like every other FD owner. lol
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Apr 17, 2014 22:21
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The Red 93 R1 is done. All of the parts for the 95 MB showed up, except a few MISC that should be here by Saturday.    Picked up the last edition of Brian Long's RX-7 book from our local Powell's books.  Finally bought a good set of drill bits. I'm hiding these.   And now for the aaaaaawwwwwww-gently caress moment. I may have done a rather stupid thing a few weeks back and I'm paying for it now. I did a highway pull and after 4th gear I noticed a drop in power and my idle dropped just a bit. Figured I should check the compression.  Front. (This evened out to 100-101-99)  Rear. gently caress gently caress gently caress.  Needless to say the motors coming back out and the chipped seal is getting replaced. SOB. Thankfully I have all this free time to fix this. God drat it. Repeat after me: I love these cars. I love these cars. I love these cars. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 22:24
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Negromancer posted:I really need to stop looking at this thread. Every time I do, I end up on craigslists looking at rx7's.... This, except instead of RX7s (...mostly) it's land to build a shop like that. the spyder posted:Figured I should check the compression. Is a setup like that kind of a must-have since one lobe could still be building good compression and faking out a traditional compression tester? Seems slick either way.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:14
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Yes- this one measures each "face" of the rotor, a traditional piston tester won't work. (Well, it will if you remove the ball+spring, plus this one is fancy!)
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Apr 17, 2014 23:20
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Speaking of reasons not to buy a FD: On today's show, we're going to take a look at three terribly overpriced FD's and why you should avoid them. Example 1: A 93 Base with surprisingly low miles (59k) for only $15k! Too bad the car sold last fall for $8k with rear end damage (still visible in the last picture, the hatch/tailights don't fit quite right.) The added bonus is it currently needs the transmission rebuilt! What a steal! http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4409415807.html  Example 2: A 93 touring with full wide body. 140k and a salvage title for only $14k! Bonus replica wheels and recent paint job! (Note the overspray and lack of jaming it out.) http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4423050978.html  Example 3: A 94 Touring that needs some TLC for only $10k! Radiator optional. Very cool "multiple colored body panels" that make you wonder how this car still has a clean title! It won't last long, act fast! http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/4426711569.html  (Actual values: 1) $10k as is, 2) $8-10k, 3) $5-6k.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:49
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Um yeah, I think I'll stick to miatas. Cheaper and easier to work on. I love in the last add how the seller says "put 5k into it and flip it for 25k!!!" First of all, you'd have to know what you're doing, and if you do know what you're doing you're not gonna touch that with a ten foot pole. I feel sorry for the poor bastard that buys it thinking he's going to profit.
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Apr 18, 2014 00:52
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When the time comes I'll probably buy an FD off you or Fritz Flynn on RX7club. Or I could just import a stock JDM model, the $10k in savings might be enough to cover any kind of fuckery.
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Apr 18, 2014 01:29
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Any idea why it chipped a seal? How does that compression tester work? I heard it's like $800 in gaskets to crack open a rotary, is that true?
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Apr 18, 2014 01:39
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mafoose posted:Any idea why it chipped a seal? 1) I'm an idiot. I only had a basic tune and I pushed it too hard. 100% my fault. I also reused 2 piece seals and I bet I chipped a one of them. I should have NEVER pushed it as hard as I did. No excuses. 2) Uses a pressure transducer, some code, and a bloody old school 4pin keyboard extension cable, haha. Check out Twisted Rotors Rotary Engine compression tester. 3) Yes and no. In my case, it's just barely got 3k miles on it and everything should be reusable since I used Pineapple Racing's HD water seals. Now, a random third gen off craigslist, I'm going to need intake/turbo gaskets, orings, springs, water seals, ect ect. Up to about $1500 in parts alone. A cheap 13B NA kit runs 1/3rd the cost from Atkins.
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Apr 18, 2014 01:54
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mafoose posted:Any idea why it chipped a seal? "Highway pull" sounds like he was trying to road tune it, which means the ecu map might not have been fully polished, and therefore it detonated. I've seen it a bunch of times around here with friends who have FDs. I could be wrong though. The compression tester is a smaller (and significantly cheaper like $300 vs $1700) version of the Mazda tool. It uses a pressure transducer to translate the combustion chamber pressure into a digital signal, kinda like an oil pressure sensor from an oil pressure gauge. The tool has a microcontroller which reads the signal and records the peak value. The microcontroller is programmed to know that there are 3 rotor faces, so it records 3 separate values. It can calculate the RPM based on the time between pulses. Since Mazda specifies the compression in terms of cranking RPM, you need that value as well, since low RPM will reduce the readings and high RPM will increase the readings. Mazda provides a conversion graph in the FSM for normalizing the readings, but there is an online calculator that does all the work for you.
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Apr 18, 2014 01:55
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Brigdh posted:Mazda provides a conversion graph in the FSM for normalizing the readings, but there is an online calculator that does all the work for you. Yeah, its a shame that the designer didn't let you enter the motor type and altitude in the tool itself. Its a pain having to use that stupid online tool I wrote. Whats the USB connector for on the new generation tool?
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Apr 18, 2014 02:56
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Seriously awesome piece of kit! Too bad Arizona has such a high Japanese car tax. I can deal with semi rusty bits much better than a sun burnt everything else. I will own one of these cars one day!
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Apr 18, 2014 04:57
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I still want one, I don't care  e: I have this book too, plus an RX8 one. Got them at work for free  
Nodoze fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 07:09
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the spyder posted:You should stop, unless you're local and want to start bugging me like every other FD owner. lol Seattle, so kinda local. As much as I love FD's, I am def not getting near one after all the horror stories you keep posting. I really like the first gen ones, especially insane ones like this: 1985 Mazda RX7 - $6700 (Shelton) 
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Apr 18, 2014 17:39
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I met the owner of that car. It's kinda retro, but it's clean. Try this one:  Sold for $5k last year with 40km on it. No idea why the respray or change in mileage. I cursed myself for not buying it. It was super clean. the spyder fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 21:28
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I'm trying to get that Black 94 wrapped up today and holy poo poo. Every time I touch it, I find something else. Nipple on the FPR was loose, power wire for the front secondary injector wasn’t crimped, boot removed on engine harness to body for boost controller wiring. Oh and more loose fuel lines. How the gently caress do shops stay in business while doing this poo poo?
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Apr 19, 2014 21:13
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my gatherings from your thread is that if I wish to own an FD, I should treat it like an airplane and do annual 100km checks and keep it a garage/hangar when not driven. From your experience, would you state that FC's are less of a chore to work on?
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Apr 20, 2014 00:58
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FullMetalJacket posted:my gatherings from your thread is that if I wish to own an FD, I should treat it like an airplane and do annual 100km checks and keep it a garage/hangar when not driven. From your experience, would you state that FC's are less of a chore to work on? I would imagine so, especially if it is a non-turbo. I think the FD's have a lot of issues due to the maze of vacuum lines controlling the overly complicated turbo system.
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Apr 20, 2014 01:07
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| # ? May 15, 2024 07:06 |
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mafoose posted:I would imagine so, especially if it is a non-turbo. so best bet is just to do an Occam razor and go with an electronic boost controller if it's turbo'd? I'm guessing here, but a smaller diameter turbo would be best as well so it kicks in between 2-3k rpm. Yes?
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Apr 20, 2014 01:12
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