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MrBlandAverage posted:Grey as in opaque gray sounds like no/bad fix. If it's transparent but dark, then maybe bad dev AND bad fix. The nice thing about no or bad fix is, should you still have those rolls, you can give it another go. Just toss one or a strip of it into fresh fixer and see what happens? After dev and stop the film stops being light sensitive. That is unless you'd put it into developer again. So if you still have those rolls, why not give that a go? For science!
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Apr 16, 2014 02:29
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Is there any way to test developer? I'm used to HC, which lasts like 20 years, but I have a bottle of some ilford stuff that claims to only last like a year or something/
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Apr 16, 2014 05:10
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Any of you ever try hand-tinting your B&W prints? Could be an interesting thing to try out after I've actually figured out the printing process. My easel should be here soon, I ordered an Airequipt 4-way easel on ebay for $15... I've decided I'm not going to mess around with printing until I have the easel to keep things aligned right.
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Apr 16, 2014 05:12
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The combination of my cellphone camera and the bathroom lights make everything look a little yellow, but here's my first print ever: But what's this?  I don't see any bright spots there on the negative, and my easel actually covers up the blotch on the very edge. Did I fail to get developer on those spots properly or something?
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Apr 18, 2014 05:04
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Pham Nuwen posted:I don't see any bright spots there on the negative, and my easel actually covers up the blotch on the very edge. Did I fail to get developer on those spots properly or something? Since the easel is covering up the one on the corner, it looks like something is wrong with the paper, or there was a light leak sometime between when you took it out of the box and put it in the easel, or between when you took it out of the easel and when you fixed it.
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Apr 18, 2014 07:01
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Paul MaudDib posted:Since the easel is covering up the one on the corner, it looks like something is wrong with the paper, or there was a light leak sometime between when you took it out of the box and put it in the easel, or between when you took it out of the easel and when you fixed it. I made 3 other prints and didn't see anything similar. It was the first print I made so I may have screwed up somehow. If you touch the surface of the undeveloped paper too much, can that mess it up? Second print (a different negative) came out pretty dark, but at that point I had the enlarger set to f8 which made it easy to overexpose. Third print (another negative) was at f16 for 10 seconds and came out beautifully, I'll try to take a picture for the thread once it's fully dry. Fourth print (yet another negative) was at f16 for 12 seconds and came out a little bit light but otherwise nice. Edit: Here's the one I like (3rd print) 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 07:22
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Pham Nuwen posted:I made 3 other prints and didn't see anything similar. It was the first print I made so I may have screwed up somehow. If you touch the surface of the undeveloped paper too much, can that mess it up? Maybe if you rubbed the paper with your finger it would do that. If you stick a blank sheet of paper in developer it will turn out pure white, you need something to darken it. I know static electricity can do it in certain cases, maybe that's it, but I've never made a mark like that just from normal handling. It could have been an intermittent light source too - something like a "message waiting" blinker light on a phone can do it. It could just have been a random sheet of hosed up paper (it does happen particularly with off brand like Foma or white-box like Arista), or it could just be some fluke mistake you made, if you're getting good results since then I wouldn't worry too much. For the record, touch the paper on the edges (or at least keep it to the easel margin) whenever possible and keep a towel (not paper towels, which spread dust) around to dry your hands after handling chemistry. Maybe you got a drop of developer on the paper and then it picked up light from the safelight or something like that? Normally I have the opposite issue, you want to be sure you don't accidentally transfer any fixer onto the paper because then you'll have white spots. By the way, use an enlarger just like you would use a camera. Depth of field is shallowest wide open, so go wide open to focus and then stop down a reasonable amount for sharpness (the farther you stop down, the better your lens does, but the more diffraction softens the image). If you are focusing by eye, seriously consider getting a grain focuser, they really help. A paper safe can help with these kinds of mistakes - you're only risking the full box of paper for a few seconds while you load the safe, after that worst-case you damage the 10 sheets of paper in the safe instead of potentially loving up a $40-100 box of paper. It's also easier to handle the paper by the edges if it's a little "loose" in the safe instead of stacked in a tight-fitting box. The exposures are long but equivalency still applies - one stop down, double the time. After you get the teething issues out of the way, check out "split grade printing"/"split filter printing", it's definitely the way to go. Instead of messing around with exposure and contrast grades you just directly print your highlights and your shadows. Grade printing is OK on properly exposed negatives but split filter printing can print even extremely lovely negatives that exceed normal contrast grades. Obviously only can be done with VC papers of course. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 16:16
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Pham Nuwen posted:Any of you ever try hand-tinting your B&W prints? Could be an interesting thing to try out after I've actually figured out the printing process. My easel should be here soon, I ordered an Airequipt 4-way easel on ebay for $15... I've decided I'm not going to mess around with printing until I have the easel to keep things aligned right. I've always wanted to try tinting but that's probably past the limit of the art I can do freehand. I have done spotting though. It's the finishing touch in the whole hand-printing process. Blast your negatives with some canned air before printing because it is REALLY time intensive to do. Dodge and burn as much as possible as well. When you've gotten it as close as you can, take an extremely fine paintbrush, the spotting dye, an empty cap, and a cap of water. Dip the brush in the dye, transfer a drop to the empty cap. Dip the brush in the water and transfer a drop to the empty cap, then mix the two. Repeat until the dye is an appropriate grey - too dark and the spotting doesn't blend into the texture. Form the brush into a point, and make short, tiny lines in the highlights to darken it. Be sure not to smear, you want this to be as fine as possible. It takes a bit of practice for it to not look like poo poo. You can do the opposite if there's a dark area. Take an exacto knife and carve tiny slices out of the emulsion, leaving white streaks to lighten up the dark areas. This is even harder to do in my opinion. Cleanliness and good practices really pay off at this point, it takes ten seconds to blast your negative with canned air or to dodge a highlight but you can spend a long long time spotting those mistakes. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 16:45
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Thought this may interest some here, Ag-Photographic has started carrying color filters at what looks like a decent price. http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/black--white-filters-501-c.asp
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Apr 19, 2014 09:54
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nielsm posted:Thought this may interest some here, Ag-Photographic has started carrying color filters at what looks like a decent price. http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/black--white-filters-501-c.asp Thank you! The last time I was in London I went to a number of different camera shops and none of them had a yellow filter in the right size for sale. That store looks really promising.
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Apr 19, 2014 15:00
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In my experience their service is pretty slow but the prices are decent and you always get your stuff eventually. Don't use their dev lab though, I got negs back with dirt and fingerprints on.
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Apr 19, 2014 19:56
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My brother and I bought an old reel of Fuji Super G Plus 100. Havent shot it yet, but it REEKS. Should film that's been stores smell? There's a patina on the canister so I think something got in it at some point.
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Apr 20, 2014 00:15
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Visited my grandparents house today for easter. Turns out they have a bunch of old film cameras from my grandfather's days as a marine biologist (taking pictures for his own papers etc.) The two that caught my eye most were an old Nikonos ii (he actually had extra lenses as well as a flash with underwater housing and some other goodies) and a Yashica Electro 35 GSN and a bunch of expired film. Couple questions that you lovely folks might be able to answer... 1) Anything common issues I should be looking at on these cameras? I know the Yashica will need a battery, but it looks like you can get alkaline replacements for the mercury ones. Is there a way to check the meter on it for accuracy? Seems like all that is hidden behind the aperture priority settings. 2) I know someone has posted tips for shooting expired film. Any advice on this and getting it developed? I have a couple rolls of color (old Kodak slide film) and a few of old Ilford B&W film. (I know the answer is gonna be Rodinal 1:100...guess I might need to buy some for that. I typically develop with T-max Developer.) Thanks in advance!
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Apr 21, 2014 02:45
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Shellman posted:Visited my grandparents house today for easter. Turns out they have a bunch of old film cameras from my grandfather's days as a marine biologist (taking pictures for his own papers etc.) The two that caught my eye most were an old Nikonos ii (he actually had extra lenses as well as a flash with underwater housing and some other goodies) and a Yashica Electro 35 GSN and a bunch of expired film. Couple questions that you lovely folks might be able to answer... The Nikonos cameras are awesome for canoeing or taking out in the rain. The 35/2.5 isn't half bad. The Yashica 35 GSN has some known issues. The meter is a CdS type, you can still buy the battery and it will be pretty accurate. The way you check it is to compare it to another known-working meter at some aperture setting - I don't remember if the GSN has an actual speed readout or just a "slow" warning, but if there's no direct readout you can read the manual to figure out when the "slow" light comes on (probably 1/30), find the aperture that produces 1/30, and match the other camera to it or figure out the equivalent exposure. The camera itself does have some known weak points - part of the shutter is controlled by a little nylon pad that tends to degrade with time and use. At this point you may need to replace it, which can be done at home if you're reasonably handy with tools. Look up "Yashica 35 Pad Of Death" for more info. Shellman posted:2) I know someone has posted tips for shooting expired film. Any advice on this and getting it developed? I have a couple rolls of color (old Kodak slide film) and a few of old Ilford B&W film. (I know the answer is gonna be Rodinal 1:100...guess I might need to buy some for that. I typically develop with T-max Developer.) Actually Rodinal 1:100 is less good for that, if you think there's going to be base fog (the faster the film and worse it's been stored, the higher the fog), since it can tend to have a compensating action that reduces contrast. You should probably use something punchier like a 1:50 or 1:25 dilution or D-76 or something. Tmax Developer would probably work fine. Maybe overexpose a half stop and overdevelop it by a half stop if you're worried. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Apr 21, 2014 |
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Apr 21, 2014 06:25
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The last roll I shot with my xa has some light leaks, is there a way to tell which part of the seal are damaged by looking at the prints ? I'm in the middle of a roll of portra and I'm thinking some black tape can reduce the leak. Thing is it might be useless if the leak comes from the upper side because I can't put tape there, and I'd rather avoid leaving glue residues if I don't need to. here is one of the few affected shots: 
unpacked robinhood fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 21, 2014 |
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Apr 21, 2014 21:54
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Is that leak pattern consistent across images? Is it only on some of the images or on all of them? I think it's most likely to be something by the uptake spool, and it may only have struck pictures that got to sit on the update for a while.
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Apr 21, 2014 22:11
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According to the index sheet the same streak appears on 3 succesive shots on a 24 roll, and is visible on 2 other random shots.
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Apr 21, 2014 22:25
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Today I accidentally rewound some unused film back into the roll. I found this DIY retreiver guide which worked for me, first try: https://www.flickr.com/photos/moleskineart/sets/72157622220313513/?view=sq Check the photo descriptions for instructions on each step.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:28
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BANME.sh posted:Today I accidentally rewound some unused film back into the roll. I found this DIY retreiver guide which worked for me, first try: That seems like a lot of work. Just order some film from B&H and throw this in your order while you're at it: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/185975-REG/Samigon_35mm_film_retriever.html They're pretty easy to use. Once you understand it, it only takes a few seconds to actually do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Voxdvu7Loj8
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Apr 22, 2014 22:37
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404notfound posted:That seems like a lot of work. Took me all of about 2 minutes 
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Apr 22, 2014 22:48
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If I rewind the film into the canister, I just rip the top off in my dark bag with a bottle opener. Nothing bad has come from it yet. edit: well how about that burzum karaoke fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 22:51
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try it with a lime posted:If I rewind the film into the canister, I just rip the top off in my dark bag with a bottle opener. Nothing bad has come from it yet. He said it was unexposed film, maybe I'm doing it wrong but when I open a film canister it's not going back together again.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:53
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I just pry the canister open a little, turn the reel until you hear the leader flick by, and then use the tip of a serrated steak knife to hook a sprocket hole.
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Apr 22, 2014 23:49
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Spring's here, i've shot some film and want to develop it, but the last time i used my developer chems were last year around the same time... what chemicals do i have to replace? fairly sure developer's got to go (ilford ID-11 at stock solution) And an ilford fixer that i can't remember the name of. stop bath is just vinegar, so i'll just mix up some more.
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Apr 23, 2014 11:48
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Frobbe posted:Spring's here, i've shot some film and want to develop it, but the last time i used my developer chems were last year around the same time... what chemicals do i have to replace? fairly sure developer's got to go (ilford ID-11 at stock solution) And an ilford fixer that i can't remember the name of. stop bath is just vinegar, so i'll just mix up some more. Test the fixer. Put a piece of unexposed film into a cup of working solution, stir a bit for agitation, measure how long it takes for the film to clear. If it's more than 4 minutes the fixer needs replacing. Mixed ID11 definitely needs replacing, on the other hand it's cheap. (Ilford only recommends storing mixed ID11 for 4 weeks.)
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Apr 23, 2014 12:23
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nielsm posted:Test the fixer. Put a piece of unexposed film into a cup of working solution, stir a bit for agitation, measure how long it takes for the film to clear. If it's more than 4 minutes the fixer needs replacing. the fixer is still in the bottle, i haven't made it into stock solution. the ID-11 packaging said that stock solution in an airtight container would last 6 months, but that's also obviously passed.
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Apr 23, 2014 13:59
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Had a sachet of Xtol I've been meaning to mix up since like forever. Problem is I can't find a handy 5l container to store it all in. What's the best thing to be using?
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Apr 29, 2014 16:49
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Holistic Detective posted:Had a sachet of Xtol I've been meaning to mix up since like forever. Problem is I can't find a handy 5l container to store it all in. What's the best thing to be using? Don't store it all in one bucket. Split it up in several smaller bottles, so you can keep the unused stock in sealed, full containers. Make sure to remove as much oxygen as possible from the top of the filled bottles before sealing them.
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Apr 29, 2014 17:11
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I bought a box of old film poo poo from an old man on craigslist for 50 bucks because he didn't want to deal with it anymore. I've sold most of it but I have this one lens left and I cant get a good read of how much its worth. I'd say its EX condition, KEH offered me $150 but I saw a similar one sell on ebay BGN condition for $260. Is $299 a fair price?
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Apr 30, 2014 01:02
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Strategy posted:I bought a box of old film poo poo from an old man on craigslist for 50 bucks because he didn't want to deal with it anymore. I've sold most of it but I have this one lens left and I cant get a good read of how much its worth. That's pretty normal, you can probably figure on getting 50% of retail from pretty much any dealer. They're not a charity, they need to make their profit too. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 01:21
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Paul MaudDib posted:That's pretty normal, you can probably figure on getting 50% of retail from pretty much any seller. They're not a charity, they need to make their profit too. I realize that, I was more asking what the retail value of it was if I were to sell it on eBay, so I guess $300 isn't an outrageous price.
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Apr 30, 2014 01:23
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I developed two rolls of Neopan 400 together using stand development in Rodinal (1+100, 1 min of agitation and then 59 mins of no movement). One of the rolls has lighter spots along one of the long edges, I've cropped the long edge of 3 photos and put them in this album: http://imgur.com/a/B1baN (issue visible on left edge, left edge, top edge, respectively) - what might be the cause of this? The other roll looks fine. There was definitely enough solution in the tank, the tank requires 580mL for 2 rolls and I used 606mL. Could it be the result of the Rodinal settling at the bottom of the tank and over-developing one edge of film? Or some other by-product of the lack of agitation? edit: I should mention that both rolls were shot in the same camera, I don't think it's a light leak issue with the camera (eos 1v) trueblue fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 13:10
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That kind of looks like stress from the film going onto the reel, as it seems to be coming from sprocket holes. Did you have any problems loading the reel?
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Apr 30, 2014 13:15
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Spedman posted:That kind of looks like stress from the film going onto the reel, as it seems to be coming from sprocket holes. Did you have any problems loading the reel? I didn't have any problems loading the reel, I recently bought some of the wide-flanged reels from freestyle and they load up really easily. This webpage was posted a few pages ago and it says that "overdeveloped area around sprocket holes" is the result of too much agitation, which is definitely not the case for me.
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Apr 30, 2014 13:19
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trueblue posted:I didn't have any problems loading the reel, I recently bought some of the wide-flanged reels from freestyle and they load up really easily. The other problem could be your camera pulling on the sprocket holes a bit hard, also stressing the film.
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Apr 30, 2014 22:27
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I'm getting ready to start processing my own film, and I've decided to start simple with B+W stand development. Rodinal 1:100 seems the go-to solution, but just out of curiosity, why does my box of Ilford HP5+ stipulate 0+25 and 6? Is this referring to 6 minutes at 1:25 dilution? I'm assuming 1:100 would just slow down the process, and from what I've read anything from 20 minutes to an hour would yield useable results. Also, how should I dispose of 1:100 Rodinal? People seem to be saying it's dilute enough to pour down the train, but I'm wary.
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May 1, 2014 01:55
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Baron Dirigible posted:Also, how should I dispose of 1:100 Rodinal? People seem to be saying it's dilute enough to pour down the train, but I'm wary. Most developers are very dilute by the time you pour them out so home developing volumes are fine to go down the drain, if you are at all uncomfortable feel free to save them and truck to your local hazardous waste disposal. Never pour used fix down the drain, it contains silver and that's real bad for stuff.
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May 1, 2014 06:30
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trueblue posted:I developed two rolls of Neopan 400 together using stand development in Rodinal (1+100, 1 min of agitation and then 59 mins of no movement). One of the rolls has lighter spots along one of the long edges, I've cropped the long edge of 3 photos and put them in this album: http://imgur.com/a/B1baN (issue visible on left edge, left edge, top edge, respectively) - what might be the cause of this? The other roll looks fine. There was definitely enough solution in the tank, the tank requires 580mL for 2 rolls and I used 606mL. Could it be the result of the Rodinal settling at the bottom of the tank and over-developing one edge of film? Or some other by-product of the lack of agitation? I don't think that's a light leak. I got the same using stand development in a medium format camera, too. So sprockets are also out. My personal guess, which was true for me is that this is caused by the temperature differential and/or the developer particles sinking to the bottom during stand. Did you warm up the water? Or is it quite warm in your place? Because in my experience, that causes the developer to shift during stand causing the very top or bottom of the film to come out like that. Here's an admittedly extreme example: 
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May 1, 2014 07:08
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That does look a lot like it and the water is probably a bit warm where I live, however to complicate things I just got some c41 developed and a roll shot with the same camera shows the issue quite clearly and severely in many frames. It's visible on the negatives (so not a scanning issue) and it's confined to the dimensions of the image (so not a light leak from the back). I suspect it's a problem with the 1v's shutter curtains (luckily I only paid $150 for it, that seemed like a bargain until now).
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May 1, 2014 14:11
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I got a roll of ektachrome expired in 2004 and kept unrefrigerated that I'll be shooting soon (and cross procesing at that, can't get E6 locally). Any tips on how much should I compensate for speed loss? I'm thinking one, maybe one and a half stops?
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May 2, 2014 03:56
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