|
Just make sure when you sell the car, you don't put your real address on the bill of sale, because that's the type of thing worth tracking down the previous owner for. Comedy option: have you tried an easy out?
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 19:30 |
|
|
It's not just broken off below the head, it's only the threaded portion of the bolt that broke off, way down low.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2014 23:04
|
|
|
Has anyone here driven a new '15 WRX? How is the new engine? I'm entertaining the idea of trading in my (stage 1) '13 WRX but I'm not sure it'd be that much of an upgrade. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2014 23:48
|
|
|
I'd wait until people start blowing them up to know where the limits are, first. It would be a shame if subaru didn't leave anything on the table to save STI sales.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2014 23:51
|
|
|
Considering the improvements made to the WRX after each new body style (facelift, slightly stronger transmission and then EJ255 for the GD and new turbo and then widebody kit for the GE/GV) I would wait a year or two to see what happens.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 00:03
|
|
|
Are there any differences between bugeyes and blobeyes apart from the front end?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 04:15
|
|
|
Some point mid 2003 they updated the tranny with RA width gears, so it's stronger. I think that's about it. It's a big it though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 04:19
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Are there any differences between bugeyes and blobeyes apart from the front end? Aren't the rear strut mounts different?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 04:21
|
|
|
Yes, 04 changes the spring perches on the strut mounts. The studs are compatible, though. It also changes the rear sway bar mounting to be more robust so you don't snap the little swaybar bracket drops off running a 20+mm rear bar. There are probably a million tiny changes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 04:24
|
|
|
Seats. 02s have narrower gears. Slightly different brake calipers- same size rotors just different pads. Radiator cap on the radiator to make filling/bleeding easier.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 04:39
|
|
|
So if I was to buy a bugeye, I would just drive it until the gearbox blew up and put a blobeye one in? Do you know if it was 2004 that got the better box or the first year of blobeye, because Australia got blobeyes in 2003. I probably wouldn't bother with upgrading the sway bar unless I really need to, I don't plan on driving the car hard enough often enough that I would want one. I should be fine with a stock one right? I'm not going to thrash it, I want a car that's fun to drive that I can keep long term. E: jamal posted:Seats. 02s have narrower gears. Slightly different brake calipers- same size rotors just different pads. Radiator cap on the radiator to make filling/bleeding easier. I'm a pretty average sized guy so the seats shouldn't bother me. The other parts shouldn't turn me off buying one though right? I can get an 02 bugeye for nearly half as much as an 03 blobeye, because they are considered ugly here but I like them. I don't like pictures of them but I think they look good in person. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Apr 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 04:45
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So if I was to buy a bugeye, I would just drive it until the gearbox blew up and put a blobeye one in? Do you know if it was 2004 that got the better box or the first year of blobeye, because Australia got blobeyes in 2003. If you can get a bugeye for half the price of a comparable mileage blobeye, absolutely get the bugeye. Like you said, anything that needs (or you want) to be replaced can be upgraded with later MY parts. I didn't like the bugeye look at first but for half price of a same mileage 2.5L WRX it was a no brainer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 16:15
|
|
|
Early bugeyes like mine also have the front brake ductwork from the front bumper. Mine has the revised transmission since the original one was fragged by the center diff and I had it replaced with a new unit in 2008. You can easily tell the difference from the drain plug. The earlier ones were just a normal hex head. The revised ones are Torx T70. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 18:43
|
|
|
Only the 2002 WRX has the thinner gears. In 03 they went to the RA width gears in the transmission. So you do not need to get a blob eye transmission to get the thicker gear set. That said, what you do when you blow up a 5MT in a WRX is get a JDM 6MT w/o DCCD.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2014 00:40
|
|
|
I thought dccd was a good thing? That makes sense that 03 gearboxes are different because I'm pretty sure america was the only place to not get blobeyes until 04.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2014 02:51
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I thought dccd was a good thing? It is, but the wiring is a bitch.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2014 03:00
|
|
|
DCCD is awesome and the non-dccd 6-speed comes with a crappy viscous coupling. And you can't add dccd. So just get an aftermarket controller (two whole wires to the trans) for a few hundred or rig up your own lock switch, although that should only be used on a dyno or if you are stuck because it can damage the diff.
jamal fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Apr 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2014 07:07
|
|
|
jamal posted:DCCD is awesome and the non-dccd 6-speed comes with a crappy viscous coupling. And you can't add dccd. So just get an aftermarket controller (two whole wires to the trans) for a few hundred or rig up your own lock switch, although that should only be used on a dyno or if you are stuck because it can damage the diff. Yeah this basically. I use a 5MT DCCD. I installed DCCDpro and I'm not super electrically inclined and it was pretty simple. MrZig also uses DCCDpro on his rally car. It's a great piece of hardware.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2014 09:01
|
|
|
Holy crap! I bought a WRX!  Im very pleased. 2002 bugeye, 180k, new clutch, engine rebuilt 20k ago, drives awesome, stack of maintenance reciepts, 2nd owner, owned for 10 years and only selling cause his wife hates it and they got a rav4. I feel pretty positive about it. Its a little dented here and there, just door dings mostly. And it could really use a good detail. But overall, its really pretty great! Also, im pretty sure i stole it. He was asking a very, very reasonable price. He listed it last night. I got lucky and was the first of 4 more people scheduled to look at it today SO! My first question about it. Ive got an accessport, an old one that I used with my 04 Forester XT. There isnt any way to use that on this, is there? And proof it happened..  ill take better pictures this weekend
hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Apr 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 02:51
|
|
|
I love how the "black" of those years was loaded with blue flake and is a deep blue in the sunlight. As long as who ever did the rebuild is competent and you have some mechanical sympathy for the trans, it will last you to 300k easy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 03:55
|
|
|
hedgegnome posted:Holy crap! I bought a WRX! You need AccessPORT SUB-001, you have -002.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 05:01
|
|
|
hedgegnome posted:Holy crap! I bought a WRX!
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 19:56
|
|
|
Is there any issue with using a non-OEM O2 sensor in an STi? Wondering if the increased exhaust temps from forced induction would gently caress it up? The stock O2 sensor for my 98 STI is almost $350 from the dealer. It's a 3-wire O2 sensor like most and I've heard of a lot of other people using pretty universal Bosch stuff and just soldering the three wires to the original plug. Is this ill-advised?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 20:12
|
|
|
I miss having a Subaru, so I agreed to buy a 1978 GL Wagon 4WD for $500. It has a rebuilt engine with 0 miles, and is nearly perfect besides some rust pittin on the rear hatch. Its the 4 speed with dealer installed A/C (and a complete spare A/C setup!) and has a ton of spare parts. Ideas?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 20:24
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:I miss having a Subaru, so I agreed to buy a 1978 GL Wagon 4WD for $500. It has a rebuilt engine with 0 miles, and is nearly perfect besides some rust pittin on the rear hatch. Its the 4 speed with dealer installed A/C (and a complete spare A/C setup!) and has a ton of spare parts. Ideas? I have been looking for one of those for so long for a project. What colour is it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 20:31
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:I miss having a Subaru, so I agreed to buy a 1978 GL Wagon 4WD for $500. It has a rebuilt engine with 0 miles, and is nearly perfect besides some rust pittin on the rear hatch. Its the 4 speed with dealer installed A/C (and a complete spare A/C setup!) and has a ton of spare parts. Ideas? You're insane, and also talk to chrisgt.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 20:32
|
|
|
You take that back, Leones are the best. I will not hear otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 20:55
|
|
|
I mean they're great Subarus, they're just not necessarily great cars. I'd still own and drive one if I had tons of space, though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 20:58
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:universal Bosch stuff and just soldering the three wires to the original plug. Is this ill-advised? Can't say on the OEM vs aftermarket (I've always gone OEM, but that's my preference) but soldering in an O2 is a bad idea. Due to the solder being a different metal than the base wire you create something called a thermal couple at the solder junction. This results in your fancy O2 sensor giving garbage readings and it should throw a code shortly after running (although it might not, but it will not run right because of false readings) Only way to properly splice in an O2 is to use a proper crimp connection that is made of the same metal as the wires it's connecting, otherwise you end up with the thermal couple issue.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 21:21
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I mean they're great Subarus, they're just not necessarily great cars. I'd still own and drive one if I had tons of space, though. Yeah I wouldn't only own one, I want one that's hosed that I can rebuild or something, just to learn on and gently caress around with, and if I happened to get it running well enough for the road I'd maybe consider dailying it and using a wrx as a weekend car. I really like how the old wagons look.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
Bajaha posted:Can't say on the OEM vs aftermarket (I've always gone OEM, but that's my preference) but soldering in an O2 is a bad idea. Due to the solder being a different metal than the base wire you create something called a thermal couple at the solder junction. This results in your fancy O2 sensor giving garbage readings and it should throw a code shortly after running (although it might not, but it will not run right because of false readings) Only way to properly splice in an O2 is to use a proper crimp connection that is made of the same metal as the wires it's connecting, otherwise you end up with the thermal couple issue. Thanks for this. I'll figure something out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 23:04
|
|
|
Its red, has 50K miles, and one of the last rebuild ATK EA motors made. New carb, all the parts, spares, etc. A long time owner has boxes of NOS parts and extras. Its pretty wild, its stored in a unit about a block from where I lived for over 10 years!. It has both original blue California plates, which is really surprising since the fronts are almost always lost.
DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Apr 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 23:35
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:Its red, has 50K miles, and one of the last rebuild ATK EA motors made. New carb, all the parts, spares, etc. A long time owner has boxes of NOS parts and extras. Its pretty wild, its stored in a unit about a block from where I lived for over 10 years!. It has both original blue California plates, which is really surprising since the fronts are almost always lost. I mean, if you got it cheap, and you got NOS parts cheap, and it's in good shape, you might just consider restoring it. I mean, it's not worth much, but it's rare in that condition and there's not many USDM '78 Subarus, so it could be worth something, if not today then someday. Motortrend just did a review of an old BRAT that's been well-maintained by SOA, you could have something in the same vein.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 01:46
|
|
|
Oh man, I take it back. I love that car. You must take beautiful sunset pictures with it for my walls.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 04:01
|
|
|
Drove my lgt in a spirited manner on a twisty road for the first time in a few months. Now I remember why I spend money on it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 04:08
|
|
|
BoyBlunder posted:Has anyone here driven a new '15 WRX? How is the new engine? I've test driven both the '15 WRX and STI; though the WRX unfortunately was the CVT. I'd have liked to experience the 6MT with the new engine, but unfortunately the dealer didn't have one at the time. The low-end torque improvement - even when stifled by the CVT - reminded me of driving a (much lighter) GM "High Feature" V6 car at low throttle. In this scenario (under 30% throttle), the CVT accelerates in a linear fashion, and the new engine feels great, and I never had a problem easing away from other traffic when a red light turns green. Unfortunately, the CVT really prevented me from fully enjoying the kind of "immediacy" that everyone feels when you're on a freeway, drop two gears, and mash the throttle: there is a noticeable delay in the gearbox understanding what you're trying to do and the adjusting ratio to suit. That said, once it does, the car's speed does build up alarmingly well. The new engine does have some delightful new noises that it makes to boot; unfortunately I tended to hear them while the gearbox was trying to catch up to what the engine was doing. Handling wise, the car turns in fast, grips well, and is exactly as good as everyone on the internets says it is. I was too busy being terrified of driving the STI in snow (it had the stock summers on) to notice much, except: 1). The engine is now the STI's only weak spot (besides not offering a hatchback version, of course) 2). The ride is unbearable on shithouse Milwaukee roads - or I'm just getting too old for this poo poo 3). SI-Drive has three modes: Intelligent, Sport, and Suicide# edit: The new steering wheel is a hair smaller on both models, has a flat bottom, and feels fantastic. 
sarcastx fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Apr 21, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 05:49
|
|
|
So I've pretty much decided that I want a forester, my budget only stretches to early 2000's models (around $7k Aus). The thing is most of the cars I see for sale have a whole lot of kilometres on the clock - like 250000, and I am a bit worried about buying something that is gonna sting me hard unexpectedly. Do you guys have any tips for buying something of this era - am I better off getting late 1st gen or early 2nd gen? I know about the timing belts are there any other things to be wary of? How do the automatic transmissions hold up? I don't really know much about cars so any and all help much appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 13:32
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Oh man, I take it back. I love that car. I bought it! Pics forthcoming later today.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 15:55
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:I love how the "black" of those years was loaded with blue flake and is a deep blue in the sunlight. OBP isn't bad either, it doesn't have the color shift in light, but there is just a really beautiful green/blue pearling when the paint is clean for the 10 minutes after you wash it. nm posted:Drove my lgt in a spirited manner on a twisty road for the first time in a few months. Now I remember why I spend money on it. Indeed, was still on snow tires, and the spec.B reminded me why I care for it. Even though it made me spend 3 hours under it fixing the exhaust where the DP<>MP gasket/flange had blown open and sounded like an angry lawnmower.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 19:30 |
|
|
My 05 sti caught wind that autox season starts next weekend and my PS pump started dying out me last night. Are there any other year / model subies i can rob a pump from short term while i rebuild / replace the one i have? Ive already replaced the inlet oring, checked the inlet springclamp. The fluid looks like its coming from the lower back side of the pump
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 21:35
|
|