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ChaoticSeven posted:Made a table. Redwood with walnut legs. Crappy photos but it's storming today and I can't go outside with it.  ]What does a slab like that set you back cost wise?
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Apr 18, 2014 21:08
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Welp, I just watched Paul Sellers' workbench building video series and bought an old stanley plane on ebay. It's all downhill from here I guess 
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Apr 19, 2014 03:18
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Where do you guys setup your wood working shop? Thanks to the joys of apartment life and no space, I have no power tools at all. Wife and I want to purchase a house soon, what should I look for as my future shop? We most likely will get a two car garage but after having the cars hailed every year for the past 3 years the garage will need to remain a car storage space. Every home in the area comes with a basement, but most of them are finished with carpet. . . Also, I can only assume that would make the house ridiculously loud to try to run a tablesaw in the basement, and hauling poo poo down a flight of stairs sounds like more fun that I want to have. I guess the next option is to try to setup shop in a shed in the backyard, but I'm fairly certain most sheds are only 10 x 12 or so which I am assuming is simply too small for wood working. I also need a spot to park the riding lawn mower I am dreaming of and other poo poo, so a shed workshop is most likely a definite no. The last option I can think of would be to just find storage space for the tools and become a driveway warrior but that sounds miserable. Is there anything I have overlooked here?
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Apr 19, 2014 12:13
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You would be surprised at how little space you need in a shed for a usable work space, especially if you don't have a bench yet. A good first project is to make your own bench so you can choose the dimensions to fit. Just make sure you can get it out the door, or make it so it's easily dismantled. If you aren't making huge pieces, you don't need a huge amount of space.
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Apr 19, 2014 14:02
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Crotch Fruit posted:Where do you guys setup your wood working shop? Thanks to the joys of apartment life and no space, I have no power tools at all. Wife and I want to purchase a house soon, what should I look for as my future shop? We most likely will get a two car garage but after having the cars hailed every year for the past 3 years the garage will need to remain a car storage space. Every home in the area comes with a basement, but most of them are finished with carpet. . . Also, I can only assume that would make the house ridiculously loud to try to run a tablesaw in the basement, and hauling poo poo down a flight of stairs sounds like more fun that I want to have. I guess the next option is to try to setup shop in a shed in the backyard, but I'm fairly certain most sheds are only 10 x 12 or so which I am assuming is simply too small for wood working. I also need a spot to park the riding lawn mower I am dreaming of and other poo poo, so a shed workshop is most likely a definite no. The last option I can think of would be to just find storage space for the tools and become a driveway warrior but that sounds miserable. Is there anything I have overlooked here? Use the garage, keep the big tools on mobile bases, move the cars out when you're working?
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Apr 19, 2014 21:40
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Crotch Fruit posted:Where do you guys setup your wood working shop? Thanks to the joys of apartment life and no space, I have no power tools at all. Wife and I want to purchase a house soon, what should I look for as my future shop? We most likely will get a two car garage but after having the cars hailed every year for the past 3 years the garage will need to remain a car storage space. Every home in the area comes with a basement, but most of them are finished with carpet. . . Also, I can only assume that would make the house ridiculously loud to try to run a tablesaw in the basement, and hauling poo poo down a flight of stairs sounds like more fun that I want to have. I guess the next option is to try to setup shop in a shed in the backyard, but I'm fairly certain most sheds are only 10 x 12 or so which I am assuming is simply too small for wood working. I also need a spot to park the riding lawn mower I am dreaming of and other poo poo, so a shed workshop is most likely a definite no. The last option I can think of would be to just find storage space for the tools and become a driveway warrior but that sounds miserable. Is there anything I have overlooked here? I pulled up carpet in the basement recently to increase the size of my shop. Yes it's loud and yes it's a pain to carry stuff downstairs. I wouldn't rule out a 10x12 space on size alone. Even now that's about all I have in the basement. You just need to plan and organize and stick to smaller tools. And cut plywood in the backyard with the circular.. Also no one actually uses garages for cars. I say claim te garage up front before it fills with family junk and becomes unusable anyway. asdf32 fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 21:52
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There's a few houses near where I live that have set up carports of varying levels of niceness. One's literally just a tent that someone put on their driveway; others are more permanent-looking structures. That would get you shelter for your vehicles from hail and the like without taking up garage space. Might be something to look into; it'd be easier than building a workshop in your back yard anyway.
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Apr 20, 2014 00:10
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Buy a house with separate building you can use for woodworking. My shop is 16x20 but I only use half so about 16x10. It's a little cramped but I have a table saw, band saw, drill press, lathe, dust collector, planer, and 2 workbenches that will soon be torn out; and still I've built a dining table and some cabinets in addition to side tables and other small projects.
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Apr 20, 2014 04:24
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Can't believe nobody on this side of the atlantic seems to know what a speed square is. Looks like the only way I'll get one is via ebay or the like, horrible shipping costs though.
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Apr 20, 2014 09:49
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So I've been working through some projects, and with awesome success even. However, I'm finding one of my failings is marking tools. I have a carpenter's mechanical pencil that sucks, and a regular mechanical pencil that is okay. Any suggestions for something thats worth grabbing? I've considered a drafting mechanical pencil. Also: Can anyone suggest what the names of some of those marking tools for mortises and tenons are? I've seen them in a number of M&T guides and they look like they make the job at lot easier than a combination square that I'm using, ugh. Just dont know what theyre called!
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Apr 20, 2014 13:15
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Walked posted:So I've been working through some projects, and with awesome success even. Mortise marking gauge, it has 2 pins for marking both sides of the mortise and tenon at once (don't buy a Crown). A marking knife is also handy. Some people use drafting pencils but you have to sharpen them, a mechanical pencil is easier.
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Apr 20, 2014 14:53
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Walked posted:So I've been working through some projects, and with awesome success even. I've heard of people marking cuts with the point of a compass or with an X-acto knife. I haven't tried this myself but it seems like it would give you precise markings. Of course it'd suck for anything long. I've just used a standard soft-lead pencil (I think it's a 2B) for most of my marking. Sharpen it with an X-acto knife (by shaving the tip down) and you're good to go.
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Apr 20, 2014 16:57
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Mortising gauge or vernier caliper (I use the later, not quite as accurate but usually fine) for making lines, marking knife for following edges, if you care about accuracy. Pencils if you don't or you're drawing curves. On another note, i hacked a large chunk out of my hand with a chisel today whilst trying to use the wrong tool for the job in an unsafe way. I'm an idiot, but also too accident prone for this hobby. I shall try to persevere. This all following a day spent traipsing round a bunch of shops looking for cheap 2x4 and 2x6 to make a workbench, buying some new auger bits for the drill, then buying dowel which matched loving none of the auger bits. Then, spending a good two hours bodging one of these http://woodgears.ca/dowel/making.html to make the dowel I bought the right size for one of the drill bits. I got half of one frame of my workbench done before i injured myself and spent nearly half the day wating in a&e. gently caress. I need a plane.
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Apr 20, 2014 17:16
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Walked posted:So I've been working through some projects, and with awesome success even. Pencils are for marking rough cuts. When you're laying out joinery you want to use a knife. This is the one Paul Sellers recommends, and it works well enough for me: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201 There are marking gauges (1 pin), mortise marking gauges (2 pins on the same side) and combination mortise and marking gauges (2 on one side, 1 on the other). I like the rosewood, non T1 version from here: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TMM/item/MS-COMBG.XX It's not a bad idea to have multiple regular marking gauges around since you can set them for different parts of the project and not have to readjust them constantly. You can find old stanley gauges on ebay reasonably cheap but beware that most people don't know how to use them correctly and subsequently do stupid things to the pins that make them nearly useless. This is a good guide on how to use them: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/8/How%20to%20Use%20a%20Marking%20or%20Mortise%20Gauge
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Apr 20, 2014 18:45
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Pencils are for marking rough cuts. I dunno, I take classes from a couple of professional furniture makers and they both use pencils. Super sharp pencils being very careful about the line thickness but still pencils. Biggest thing for good joints is to measure, measure, measure and set things up for repeatable cuts.
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Apr 20, 2014 19:50
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wormil posted:Buy a house with separate building you can use for woodworking. My shop is 16x20 but I only use half so about 16x10. It's a little cramped but I have a table saw, band saw, drill press, lathe, dust collector, planer, and 2 workbenches that will soon be torn out; and still I've built a dining table and some cabinets in addition to side tables and other small projects. Can you post a picture of your space? I've got a similarly sized space to work with and I've been struggling to make it work as I build my shop capacity.
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Apr 20, 2014 20:27
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Marking gauges It may also be worth noting that marking gauges aren't exactly tough to make: http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Shop%20Tricks/tricks-12.html
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Apr 20, 2014 21:05
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Can you post a picture of your space? I've got a similarly sized space to work with and I've been struggling to make it work as I build my shop capacity. I'm out of town, when I get back I will try to get a good picture or barring that, the floor plan.
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Apr 21, 2014 02:49
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wormil posted:I'm out of town, when I get back I will try to get a good picture or barring that, the floor plan. Awesome, thanks. I've been working on new piece for my garage that'll be a combo tablesaw outfeed and router table, so when I finish that I'll get a good picture of my whole setup to compare.
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Apr 21, 2014 07:47
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Awesome, thanks. In the meantime... as you walk in door... the TS is in the center. Drill, DC, lathe to the left. Lathe is in the floor space right now and will eventually go somewhere else. There are 2 wall workbenches, one left and blocked by the lathe, the other against the wall next to door. Bandsaw is left between door and workbench. All other machines move around. Sheet goods are against right wall. Wood storage is in the back half of the shop which I plan to clean out and use someday. Building anything big means doing all the assembly at once, finishing, then getting it the hell out. TS is also a workbench. You can see why I mostly do small projects because big ones are doable but inconvenient. edit: 
wormil fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 21, 2014 15:20
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I got the Paul Sellers books, and they're fascinating. He makes everything look pretty easy. I have been watching him on YouTube, too. I've got some hand tools coming my way (eBay is amazing) but until then, I already own some chisels. I sharpened them up and tried my hand at making a dado joint using his knifewall technique. It's a surprisingly tight fit. Not bad for a second try. I did try making a tenon and mortise joint, but the mortise piece of wood kept splitting. I imagine I'll be able to do better once I have a vise, but I'm having fun.
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Apr 22, 2014 01:45
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I have come to rather enjoy carpentry, been working on a woodshed and various related stuff I need recently and one day I was outside from 11:00-20:00 working and didn't even know that much time has passed. Been building some saw horses, first an X-shaped one for cutting logs, folds up:  Then I built some more saw horses so I could make a raised platform to stand on so I'd reach the roof of the woodshed:  I am so happy I got to borrow my dads miter saw, the bosch pks 40 I had wasn't up to the task, even with the jigs I made for it it was just too small to cut more than one board at a time.
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Apr 22, 2014 10:36
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How critical is having a router table for a router? I bought a router by itself a while ago, finally pulled it out of the box last night to use it, and it was cumbersome as hell trying to rout wood held to my work table with vices. The more I thought about it, the less I felt like having to clamp and unclamp a million times for something I want to make many multiples of. In the image I am practicing on some throwaway particle board before I use it on my project "top choice whitewood" (I don't even know but it was cheap).  The thin strip at the top was not intended; I had not discovered the micro-adjustment dial until afterward, then that strip disappeared. Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 14:14
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Routers are useful both with and without a router table. For example, when I wanted to apply a roundoff to the edges of the (13-foot-long) staircase handrail I'm working on, there's no way I would have wanted to do that with a router table. But when I'm routing the edges of a cutting board or some building blocks, then there's no way I'd want to try to do that without a router table. It's the old "do you move the piece through the machine, or the machine past the piece" question. There's situations where both are applicable. I've heard of some people who have two routers and just leave one permanently mounted in the table while the other is their freehanding router. I'm not willing to spend that much on redundant tools just yet myself.
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Apr 22, 2014 16:27
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I really wish I had a router table, would make the flow so much quicker, but I don't think I have the room or skills to build one. I've been using my router a ton to make the little inset for picture frames.
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Apr 22, 2014 16:40
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Make sure your router is moving the right direction around the piece. It makes a shockingly huge difference.
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Apr 22, 2014 16:48
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Walked posted:Make sure your router is moving the right direction around the piece. It makes a shockingly huge difference. This right here! Nothing like tearing out a huge chunk of wood, ruining your piece, then finding out that you've bent the 1/4" bit you were using. Not that I would know anything about that, it was a friend. . . honest!
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Apr 22, 2014 17:17
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Walked posted:Make sure your router is moving the right direction around the piece. It makes a shockingly huge difference. With any rotary tool, you want to be moving against the direction of rotation (i.e. in the direction of most resistance). Moving with the rotation risks letting the tool/piece get pulled away from you; you have less control and are far more likely to accidentally get your cutting tool jammed, which could damage the tool, send the piece flying (potentially into your body), etc. It's bad news; don't do it!
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Apr 22, 2014 17:22
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I am definitely routing in the right direction, but I think the difference maker here for me will be that for what I am doing, I really need a table so that I can feed the work through the router and get it done in seconds versus minutes. I'm also trying to get a rounded edge on my pieces, so that means flipping over the work to complete the semi-circle edge I'm looking for. I'll go grab a table tonight.
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Apr 22, 2014 20:15
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Does anyone know where I can possibly get blunted brass needle shape tips, preferably screw in? That's probably not the best description, but, like, I want something that's, say, half an inch long (on the exposed part), 3/16" thick at the thickest part of the cone, and comes to a rounded point at the end, with threads on the other end. I'd like to class up some knitting needles I might be making for someone. So like this, but imagine the last half of the cone portion is a metal tip threaded into the rod:  Brass would be cool, stainless would be cool, whatever, something metal and shiny.
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Apr 23, 2014 01:54
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Bad Munki posted:Does anyone know where I can possibly get blunted brass needle shape tips, preferably screw in? That's probably not the best description, but, like, I want something that's, say, half an inch long (on the exposed part), 3/16" thick at the thickest part of the cone, and comes to a rounded point at the end, with threads on the other end. I'd like to class up some knitting needles I might be making for someone. Soldering iron replacement tips? Like this: Amazon
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Apr 23, 2014 02:59
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I need something that overhangs the threads so that I can get a smooth transition from metal to wood without having a microscopically thin layer of wood on the metal.
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Apr 23, 2014 03:03
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Metal lathe, then? You needed an excuse to buy more tools and yet another hobby, right?
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Apr 23, 2014 03:11
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Well, yeah, that'd be my preferred option. And I DID just have a birthday I didn't get myself anything for.  e: Seriously though, I've wanted one for a while. But I don't think I can justify it even to myself for this particular project. If I can think of some OTHER projects, maybe that'll be a different story 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 03:30
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Call a machine shop in your area. They might be able to make you one. I have no idea what the cost would be.
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Apr 23, 2014 03:43
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Blistex posted:This right here! Nothing like tearing out a huge chunk of wood, ruining your piece, then finding out that you've bent the 1/4" bit you were using. Not that I would know anything about that, it was a friend. . . honest! Back/climb cutting is usually to prevent blow out like you're describing. The whole point of (intentionally) climb cutting a piece is to compress the material and then put a clean cut on it afterwards instead of lifting the fibers and blowing out a piece on a big cut via push cutting. But yeah, climb cutting can be a scary proposition if you are unaware of it happening and aren't ready for the router to walk on you and I'd absolutely advise against it when using certain jig setups.
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Apr 23, 2014 04:04
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Is anyone in the Pittsburgh/Western PA area? If so, where's a good place to buy retail lumber?
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Apr 23, 2014 04:39
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What are you looking for, specifically? I'm in Erie and there are a ton of sawmills around here that do local hardwoods (oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc.) and sell in small quantities as needed but I have found precisely zero sources for anything exotic. However, Erie hardcore sucks and Pittsburgh has way more options. If you're after the more interesting stuff, there's a woodcraft up in Cleveland if you're ever up that way. Are you actually in Pittsburgh, or did you just name that because it's the only other place in PA worth mentioning besides Philadelphia? 
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Apr 23, 2014 04:50
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Bad Munki posted:Does anyone know where I can possibly get blunted brass needle shape tips, preferably screw in? You could shape brass rod on a wood lathe or drill press. Cut a tenon on the end instead of threads and glue into place. I've done this several times with brass, copper, and even steel, by removing the jaws from my Nova chuck and using it to hold the metal rod then shaping with carbide and/or files.
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Apr 23, 2014 07:17
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I'm getting interested in getting deeper into more advanced for woodworking, what tools should I focus on first, what do I have most use for? What are good projects to start out with? Is a router too advanced a tool to start out with, seems like it's very useful for all kinds of things, esp. if you build a table for it. I'm gonna be building shelves and workbenches pretty soon for my garage which I am currently building so I guess that's what I'll have to start out with. I'd like to eventually acquire the skill and tooling to build a new desk for myself (something like this), and also some bookshelves sometime in the future, but I guess I should start out small and work my way up.
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Apr 23, 2014 08:39
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