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Cranbe posted:Is this something that I can fix in place, or do I need to take it off and replace it entirely? If the former, how? I mean, sure, it's going to be better if you take the who thing off to properly spread adhesive, but I wouldn't if I were in your place. Just get a tube of construction adhesive and get it as far down in there as you can and make sure you use enough where you can reach. Push it back up on there and let it set. Be ready to wip off anything that squeezes up onto the wall if you got a bit overzealous. Then - and this is important - caulk it. To make it look nice and not collect mold get a tube of good latex caulk. I like Phenoseal. It's more expensive but it spreads well. Then you get a bowl of warm water and a small sponge (you're gonna want to throw away the sponge when you're done). Cut the caulk nozzle open the smallest bit you can and run along the inside corner to be caulked. You don't need much. Now wet your finger and run it along the caulk. It smooths it right out and makes it look perfect. As you get a bunch on your finger, wipe it off on the sponge. When the sponge is full rinse it clean in the water. You need to keep that finger clean and wet the whole time. Keep going until you've ended up taking off 1/2 or more of the caulk (because everyone puts way too much on the first time) and you'll see how little you really need when you're smoothing it like this. It looks great and it's watertight. And that's important, because water getting down there would be a very bad thing. Once you see how easy it is to caulk this way you'll understand the say "some caulk and some paint makes a carpenter who ain't." Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 15:55
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Personal opinion here but I don't use caulk anywhere near a shower. 100% silicon is what I use anywhere that is constantly wet. Many caulks caution against constantly wet application. I am not familiar with the brand you suggest so it might fit the bill well. Just don't use DAP or big stretch in a shower.
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Apr 18, 2014 16:03
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Hey gang. Winter was pretty brutal here in Philly and my patio was not a fan of it. It looks like the material used for my slab just wasn't ready for it, or some cracks allowed water to mess things up when it froze. Is there any easy way to fix that and make it look good? I'm assuming there's no way to make it look anything like the original non-damaged area.  
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Apr 18, 2014 16:04
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You guys rock. Thanks!
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Apr 18, 2014 16:41
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spwrozek posted:Personal opinion here but I don't use caulk anywhere near a shower. 100% silicon is what I use anywhere that is constantly wet. Many caulks caution against constantly wet application. Yeah, the Phenoseal stuff works great in wet environments. I know cheaper latex caulks definitely caution against it, but this one specifically says it's OK (it's also been in my own shower for 5 years and looks new). I kinda hate and avoid silicone caulk because it doesn't spread nearly as nicely and I tend to end up with divots/ruts/whatever that will end up collecting water and eventually mold and mildew because you can't easily clean them. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 16:45
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Good to know, I will check it out on the next project. Silicon can be tough to use but it is super waterproof.
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Apr 18, 2014 17:13
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spwrozek posted:Personal opinion here but I don't use caulk anywhere near a shower. 100% silicon is what I use anywhere that is constantly wet. Many caulks caution against constantly wet application. That's the right way to do it. Only thing that should have latex caulk is the escutcheon, and that's just for looks as it should have a foam gasket that pushes up against the wall to make the actual seal. Basically use latex caulk for toilets, silicone for sinks and showers. (as far as plumbing things go that is, I have no idea about what other trades use for their poo poo) edit: The reason is that silicone deals with flexing a lot better than caulking. It stretches and pops back to shape better than latex which is more likely to either tear or come off. So in applications where you might have lots of expansion/contraction or variable weight loads (tubs, sinks) a silicone caulking is going to handle those stresses much better. Jadunk fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 02:01
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Motronic posted:I mean, sure, it's going to be better if you take the who thing off to properly spread adhesive, but I wouldn't if I were in your place. Adding that (and I'm channelling my late father, the paint chemist here) SURFACE PREP IS KEY. Before you splooge an entire cartridge of adhesive down the inside of your wall, be sure that the contact surfaces of your shower surround, where you will be applying caulk, are: a) dry b) clean Wipe them down with toilet paper; then, wipe them down with paper saturated with isopropyl alcohol, and let them dry. Keep your filthy greasy fingers away from the contact surfaces. It's a pain in the rear end, but beats going through this whole dog & pony show come Christmas.
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Apr 19, 2014 03:13
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Jadunk posted:edit: This is a very good point, and I should disclose that my good experiences with it IN the shower are with a tile wall and cast iron tub, not a plastic insert that flexes. I hadn't considered the flex issue, just how much I hate getting silicone spread neatly. Even with that in mind, I agree that it would be fine on the top, providing he gets it reattached properly.
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Apr 19, 2014 15:30
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Pressure washers: gas or electric? Prices for gas are a lot higher, for the equivalent psi, so is portability the only factor? Also, I need it for cleaning the back deck and bricks of algae and mossy stuff. What psi would I need? 2000 seems to be about the average.
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Apr 19, 2014 15:52
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jackpot posted:Pressure washers: gas or electric? Prices for gas are a lot higher, for the equivalent psi, so is portability the only factor? I've never found n electric pressure washer that could come close to the pressure and flow rate of a gas powered one.
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Apr 19, 2014 15:56
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I have a yard draining question that I wasn't sure where to post so please redirect me as necessary. We recently discovered a hidden water drainage problem in our backyard. It's a tiny yard that is pretty narrow (about 9ft by 16ft) that sits flush with a somewhat detached garage. We were thinking about putting a length of french drain down and a dry well at the very end, but reading around places say to not have dry wells within 10 ft of your house and anyone else's house. Given how small our yard is, this pretty much means we can't do a dry well, and without a dry well the french drain won't have anywhere to go to unless we want to dump to the street (which we don't want to do). We'll get a contractor if we have to, but we're trying to avoid it for money reasons. Does anyone have a direction they could point me in at least? I'm pretty lost on what alternatives we have.
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Apr 20, 2014 20:09
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This might be a dumb question but I don't know where else to ask it. I need an extention cable for a light, but I don't know how to find it. The ends look like the cable in the link below (do those ends have a name?) http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CA-2210/CP-2210-ND/1129473 I know that the size of the adapter is based on the diameter of the end, which since I don't have a caliper is about 3mm and 1.5mm for the hole. My question is if there is a way I can identify the size definitively? And could anyone recommend a place to order an extention?
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Apr 20, 2014 21:50
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I might just cut the end off and use wire nuts. Is the wiring going to be exposed?
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Apr 20, 2014 22:40
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Deadite posted:This might be a dumb question but I don't know where else to ask it. I need an extention cable for a light, but I don't know how to find it. The ends look like the cable in the link below (do those ends have a name?) What is this light plugged into? You also will need to know how much current the light draws so you don't cause a fire.
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Apr 20, 2014 22:44
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It's a 3.5 watt LED light plugged into a splitter that is plugged into a 12.5v adapter. I tried to find the kit on Home Depot's website but I haven't been able to yet.
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Apr 20, 2014 22:58
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jackpot posted:Pressure washers: gas or electric? Prices for gas are a lot higher, for the equivalent psi, so is portability the only factor? I have an electric unit that is rated about 1800 psi and it cleans my driveway with no issues.
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Apr 21, 2014 00:42
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Deadite posted:It's a 3.5 watt LED light plugged into a splitter that is plugged into a 12.5v adapter. I tried to find the kit on Home Depot's website but I haven't been able to yet. If you take it to radio shack, they have all barrel jacks ever, so you can guess and check until you find a match. Then you can buy the tip and solder. One thing -- they don't identify what the tip is beyond a proprietaery letter code, so you'll probably have to buy their overpriced one. All that said, I'd just cut the wire and splice more in. For something that dinky, 22 AWG should be fine. Your local home improvement store should sell two-conductor wire like that.
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Apr 21, 2014 03:27
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Anyone have any idea what this gross green/black sludge dripping from my bathroom faucet is? http://imgur.com/a/POzno I saw this dark thing dangle from the bathroom faucet and snagged it with a tissue. One had grown a while back and I just cleaned it off without thinking. The second picture is the bottom of the faucet showing mineral deposits around the outside and the mark where the black stuff was growing from. The greenish tint almost makes me think it's copper deposits. At first it appears to be a grease but it's soft, pliable and a bit fibrous in texture like algae or wet animal fur.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:13
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Looks like some stank biofilm growing on some mineral deposits. Pull that aerator off of there and soak in overnight in vinegar or something to get the crud off. Or just go buy a new one.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:30
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slap me silly posted:Looks like some stank biofilm growing on some mineral deposits. Pull that aerator off of there and soak in overnight in vinegar or something to get the crud off. Or just go buy a new one. Took off the aerator and soaking in CLR right now. There wasn't anything else behind the aerator screen or coming from inside the faucet itself. I just realized from my picture the underside of the faucet is pretty grungy so I'll be more thorough cleaning it.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:37
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Hello, I'm just wondering if anyone knows what this sort of hinge is called? Our shower door squeaks (more like screams) whenever we open it and the landlord just oils it or something which doesn't help, so I want to just get new hinges. They don't look like they'd be super hard to replace right??
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Apr 22, 2014 22:53
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I am looking to get a 3 ton central air unit installed at my new house that would hook into the existing furnace and duct work. Is there a good website that goes through the various models with price estimates to pick out the most reliable/cost efficient ones? For whatever reason I haven't been able to find anything helpful at all so far via the usual places. Thanks.
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Apr 23, 2014 15:09
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Vapor barriers and bathroom upgrade bullshit are driving me insane. Somebody please help me sort through the noise. Situation: I bought a Cape Cod in Maryland in October, a fairly moderate zone 5 climate. I'm planning on gutting my bathroom and putting in a new stud-mounted Vikrell tub/shower liner unit to replace the poorly installed fiberglass tub/tile shower we currently have. Whoever did the previous bathroom install placed tile directly on the drywall, so its a lovely mess and is probably crumbling apart behind the tile. I haven't got the walls off yet, but I'm expecting everything that is pre-existing to be an unsalvageable hot mess. I ordered 3 packages of "green board" water resistant drywall, and figure I'll likely have to redo the insulation on the exterior wall and ceiling as I expect it to either be moldy or below rating. However, when looking for proper installation instructions I'm now running into the conflicting dogma of vapor barriers/permeability, which based on the amount arguing and vitriol on the web seems to be a true sectarian religious war. People rail against the use of greenboard and freak out about double vapor barriers, but they all seem to assume people are installing more wall tile rather than a tub surround. The whole vapor debate is so thoroughly clouded with bullshit from old science and outdated building practices that I can't determine who I should trust to make a decision. To wit: what sort of fiberglass batting should I install behind green board on an exterior wall? Unfaced? Faced with slits to allow moisture through? Faced and ignore the moisture thing entirely because permeability is bullshit? I've got a sheet or two of plain-old drywall I could use instead of green board for the exterior wall, would that be wise or does it just not matter? The Werle fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 15:14
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This really doesn't answer your question but if anyone is redoing a bathroom and putting in new tile in the shower just use green board, put in a schluter system and be waterproof forever. Few hundred bucks well spent. To answer you a little bit more I think a vapor barrier is OK. When I ripped out my last bathroom the drywall had been getting wet for years behind the tile. It would just disintegrate while pulling it down. They had a vapor barrier behind it and the insulation was in like new condition even though it is 35 years old. spwrozek fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 16:09
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spwrozek posted:This really doesn't answer your question but if anyone is redoing a bathroom and putting in new tile in the shower just use green board, put in a schluter system and be waterproof forever. Few hundred bucks well spent. Custom Building Products just rolled out a competing system that I think works a bit easier, but I agree, it's time and money well spent. With Custom's red guard, you don't have to thinset the sheet onto the walls, just use a paint roller to paint the latex stuff, and tile right over that. Schluter's drain options are nicer though.
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Apr 23, 2014 16:23
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AFewBricksShy posted:Custom Building Products just rolled out a competing system that I think works a bit easier, but I agree, it's time and money well spent. Nice to know. I will have to check it out when I redo the first bath. If you buy the whole kit with the sloped floor, curb, and drain it is like every headache ever goes away. Such a nice setup.
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Apr 23, 2014 16:35
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Where can I find information about maintenance for a treadmill? There didn't seem to be an appropriate place to ask in the exercise forums. All I really need is lube. Its about five years old, and it has WAY too much friction. The running surface gets hot, and starts to make a funky smell. A year ago I paid $75 for a "service call" from someone who claimed to be a factory authorized service tech, but literally all he did was give me a can of silicon spay lube. I pull up the running surface as far as I can to spray some in, and it seems to help a LITTLE, but doesn't fix the problem. I've had a very hard time finding official maintenance information about it. It's a Vision Fitness T9600 Premier Goetta posted:I am looking to get a 3 ton central air unit installed at my new house that would hook into the existing furnace and duct work. Is there a good website that goes through the various models with price estimates to pick out the most reliable/cost efficient ones? For whatever reason I haven't been able to find anything helpful at all so far via the usual places. They do this on purpose, you pretty much have to go through an official dealer to get good info. So, find an HVAC guy that you like? kells posted:Hello, I'm just wondering if anyone knows what this sort of hinge is called? Have you tried dissembling the hinge? Does that plastic cover snap off? Take it apart, clean it, lube it from inside.
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Apr 23, 2014 17:57
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Squashy Nipples posted:Where can I find information about maintenance for a treadmill? Have you asked the manufacturer yet? They would know best.
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Apr 23, 2014 18:26
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kid sinister posted:Have you asked the manufacturer yet? They would know best. No, I called the dealer I bought it from, they put me in touch with those two jokers who ripped me off.
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Apr 23, 2014 18:28
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Goetta posted:I am looking to get a 3 ton central air unit installed at my new house that would hook into the existing furnace and duct work. Is there a good website that goes through the various models with price estimates to pick out the most reliable/cost efficient ones? For whatever reason I haven't been able to find anything helpful at all so far via the usual places. Lennox/Rheem/Ruud Also is this replacing or adding on to your existing ducts, because furnace-only ductwork doesn't have proper returns for ac.
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Apr 23, 2014 19:37
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Squashy Nipples posted:Where can I find information about maintenance for a treadmill? If you smell actual burning I'd be worried about the motor as well as the belt. Assuming it's just the tread, though: Owner's manual (pdf download) says to re-wax the deck every six months to a year. Loosen up the tread and really firehose that silicone lubricant in there.
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Apr 23, 2014 20:04
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kells posted:Hello, I'm just wondering if anyone knows what this sort of hinge is called? You're looking for a frameless glass door pivot hinge. What you have looks ancient/cheap, so you may not find exactly the same thing.
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Apr 24, 2014 03:52
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oldskool posted:If you smell actual burning I'd be worried about the motor as well as the belt. Ah, thank you! And yes, when I first smelled the odor, I popped the motor cover off and checked the belt. Assuming that it works pretty much like an old fashioned fan belt, no obvious signs of wear or slipping.
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Apr 24, 2014 11:04
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I have a section of flat roof, which is 220 sqft. We had a roofer out for another issue and he offered to put alumacoat down for $585. Reading up on this it seems like buying a similar product from home depot will cost me about $80 and a morning to put it on. It also says to pressure wash the roof etc, which I can do myself along with rolling it. Is this something I can do myself and save $500 or best left to the professionals?
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Apr 24, 2014 14:21
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Yesterday I was attempting to drill a hole through a 1" thick piece of steel. I broke off the drill bit by pressing too hard because I am an idiot. What is the best way to get a broken drill bit out of a hole? For reference, I was using a #29 drill bit. I don't want to do anything that would increase the diameter of the hole, since I need to thread it for an 8-32 screw.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:08
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Is there anything at all left to grip on to, or did it break off totally flush?
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Apr 24, 2014 18:16
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Alfred P. Pseudonym posted:Yesterday I was attempting to drill a hole through a 1" thick piece of steel. I broke off the drill bit by pressing too hard because I am an idiot. What is the best way to get a broken drill bit out of a hole? For reference, I was using a #29 drill bit. I don't want to do anything that would increase the diameter of the hole, since I need to thread it for an 8-32 screw. Use a magnet, maybe? I mean, it'll grab onto the steel plate as well, but the plate can't move and the drillbit can, so you might still be able to extract it.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:21
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Bad Munki posted:Is there anything at all left to grip on to, or did it break off totally flush? It broke deep down in the hole. I got most of it out but there's still a bit that seems to be embedded in the steel at the bottom of the hole. I tried pounding the plate from the other side, but no dice.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:58
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Turn it upside down, and take a torch to it. The steel should expand slightly faster then the broken bit, and if you are lucky it will just fall out.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:07
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