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OEM top. I have the side latches, and I have both halves of the passenger side rear latch that broke. It looks fixable (if bothersome), I will probably just live with only having one rear latch for now and see how it goes.
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Apr 20, 2014 15:50
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The rear latches are a big part of the adjustment, it's a balance between all six and every car is different. If you have one worn out latch it can throw off the whole thing, so replace any worn latches as well as try to fix the busted one. It may seem fine at first, but once it settles you'll be adjusting and re-adjusting. I can see it not being an issue for Spec racing because you're never gonna hear any rattles (or care) when you're racing, but for a DD it gets annoying.
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Apr 20, 2014 17:15
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It sounds like a good excuse to practice welding. A latch failing isn't going to kill you, but you would still have to make a pretty good joint to make sure it holds up.
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Apr 20, 2014 17:32
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I gots a problem, guys. I took my 1990 in for a New Hampshire state inspection on Friday and got failed for ride height. Apparently the state is cracking down on getting shops to enforce things like this, so I'm not optimistic about getting a sticker at another shop. From the ground to the bottom of my bumper support was 13.25", where the minimum is 16". I'm riding on a 10 year old FM spring and KYB AGX setup that has sagged over time. Hub center to fender lip I'm at 12" in the front and 12.375" in the back. I've wanted to replace this setup for some time, as it rides like crap, but now it's gotten more urgent. A set of threaded coilovers seems like the way to go, either 949's Tecnas (whenever those finally get released) or a Ground Control and Bilstein setup. What's the max ride height I can expect out of a setup like this? Car in question: 
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Apr 21, 2014 13:46
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What's the ground to pinch weld height? (fender to hub center is awful)
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Apr 21, 2014 14:16
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Konrad posted:What's the max ride height I can expect out of a setup like this? 3 inches higher sounds a lot like OEM. Is that 16" minimum specific to your model of Miata or just a standard level?
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Apr 21, 2014 14:31
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Can't you throw on some spring rubbers just to pass? Or try a different inspection station.
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Apr 21, 2014 14:43
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I'd get coilovers and jack it up for the test then drop it back after. I had GC and R package bilsteins and it was a nice budget setup. If you don't do track stuff with the car I'd just do that. Otherwise spend more money on a more serious setup.
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Apr 21, 2014 15:45
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Phone posted:What's the ground to pinch weld height? (fender to hub center is awful) I'll have to check when I get home. Fender to hub center does seem to leave a little grey area as to exactly where to eyeball the reference points. Edmund Honda posted:3 inches higher sounds a lot like OEM. Is that 16" minimum specific to your model of Miata or just a standard level? It's a standard level. 16" does seem really high, I'm not sure my car met it even when new. Now I want to measure the height my dad's stock 2000. Elephanthead posted:Can't you throw on some spring rubbers just to pass? Or try a different inspection station. 3" might be a bit too much to do with spring rubbers and I want to replace the suspension anyway. I'm perfectly willing bring the ride height up once a year for inspection, then put it back and take my chances the rest of the time. This same mechanic has passed my car before, but he says that the DOT has been going around to the stations when they renew their certification and emphasizing compliance with things that they used to be more lax with. I've heard similar stories lately from some of the 4x4 guys getting rejected at multiple stations. Actual on-road enforcement should be easier to evade if I avoid attracting attention, especially if I keep the new daily ride height a bit higher. Larrymer posted:I'd get coilovers and jack it up for the test then drop it back after. I had GC and R package bilsteins and it was a nice budget setup. If you don't do track stuff with the car I'd just do that. Otherwise spend more money on a more serious setup. That's what I plan to do, but I want to know if it's reasonable to expect the adjustment range to go that high. I'd really rather not dick around with tires and spacers if I can avoid it. The current tires are vintage 2007 195/50R14 Azenis (also getting replaced when the 4th gen 6ULs come out).
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Apr 21, 2014 15:59
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Konrad posted:The current tires are vintage 2007 195/50R14 Azenis (also getting replaced when the 4th gen 6ULs come out). Conveniently those are ~1" smaller in diameter compared to standard (185/60R14 is OEM for the NA, right?) so that's another little gain.
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Apr 21, 2014 16:06
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They didn't make Azenis in 50 aspect, the tire is 195/60R14. Typo on his part.
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Apr 21, 2014 16:10
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Yeah, I mis-typed that. The tires a tad taller than factory.
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Apr 21, 2014 16:40
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I'm sorting my tools today and decided to put together an emergency kit for the Miata. I don't want a full tool kit rolling around back there so what sockets other than 10mm should I worry about?
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Apr 21, 2014 18:48
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I'm only familiar with the NA/NB, but I can't imagine that the NC is that different: 10, 12, 14 (get a deep 6 point one, too), 17, 21, and whatever torx bits you need. Add a Phillips screwdriver to the mix and you can basically take apart the entire car minus stuff like the O2 sensor or trans/diff plugs/fill holes.
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Apr 21, 2014 19:02
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Phone posted:I'm only familiar with the NA/NB, but I can't imagine that the NC is that different: 10, 12, 14 (get a deep 6 point one, too), 17, 21, and whatever torx bits you need. Add a Phillips screwdriver to the mix and you can basically take apart the entire car minus stuff like the O2 sensor or trans/diff plugs/fill holes. That's pretty much what I went with. Tossed an first aid kit and some pliers in just I'm case. Thanks!
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Apr 21, 2014 19:12
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Rhyno posted:That's pretty much what I went with. Tossed an first aid kit and some pliers in just I'm case. Thanks! I would toss in some box wrenches in the 10/12/14/17 as well, since there are some things that you need to hold a nut on (alt/PS mount through-bolts) that you could conceivably see a reason to do on teh side of the road. You ARE keeping old belts in the trunk as spares, right? Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Apr 21, 2014 |
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Apr 21, 2014 19:23
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Beach Bum posted:I would toss in some box wrenches in the 10/12/14/17 as well, since there are some things that you need to hold a nut on (alt/PS mount through-bolts) that you could conceivably see a reason to do on teh side of the road. I need to pick up a set of spare wrenches. Somehow I'm down to just one of each metric. Must have lost a toolbox along the way somewhere. And I will keep the old belt when I do that service.
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Apr 21, 2014 20:58
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Rhyno posted:I need to pick up a set of spare wrenches. Somehow I'm down to just one of each metric. Must have lost a toolbox along the way somewhere. And I will keep the old belt when I do that service. I dunno about NC's but for NA/NB you can also toss in a 15 for a few things. Like the sway bar end link that I forgot to tighten down when I took it out of storage and dumped a nut somewhere on the highway. I want to say a clutch line fitting is 15 too? But yeah 10/12/14 is the majority of the car. I also tucked a small set of jumper cables in the void behind the spare tire, and leave a quart of oil in the spare itself.
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Apr 22, 2014 01:43
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I tried sitting in Maximus' NA at the PacNW AI meet and was surprised how poorly I fit - my legs are too long, even with the seat all the way back. I fit fine in the last NA I sat in. Does anyone else with a 32" + inseam have this problem?
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Apr 22, 2014 03:52
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Welp, I found another shop that'll inspect my car the way it is. They seemed mystified by my story from shop #1.
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Apr 22, 2014 14:51
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opengl128 posted:Does this sound like a common/known issue to anybody? My 97 started running like rear end today. I was cruising in 4th and it started to stumble, noticeably down on power. Pulled over, and it really wanted to stall, sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders at best. It would rev relatively freely, but barely stayed idling. Shut it down for 10 minutes or so, reseated every electrical connection in the engine bay, all plug wires, started it up, same thing. Decided to limp it home, got about 5 minutes with the same symptoms, until I got to a steep hill. Severely lost power at this point, even in first, I barely, barely made it up, it was coughing and sputtering and smelled like gas. Foot to the floor in first, barely kept it above idle and moving. Got over the hill, clutched in, gave it a few revs, and like a light switch, it was back to normal, drove the remaining 15 minutes home with no issue. No CEL at any time during this. Installed the replacement CAS this afternoon (thanks again Phone), along with a new CAS O Ring (I have 9 more if anyone needs one), and a new valve cover gasket since it needed one anyway and having the VC off makes the CAS a million times easier. Ran beautifully for about 10 minutes, then the same exact symptoms. Pretty much has to be coil pack at this point right?
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Apr 23, 2014 21:32
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Could be plugs / wires too. I'd do wires first, they're easier/less expensive than coil packs.
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Apr 23, 2014 23:00
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Well, I figured out where my creak was coming from while switching out my snows
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Apr 24, 2014 02:46
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Haha, remember when we told you springs don't wear out? You just won that debate. 
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Apr 24, 2014 04:39
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opengl128 posted:Installed the replacement CAS this afternoon (thanks again Phone), along with a new CAS O Ring (I have 9 more if anyone needs one), and a new valve cover gasket since it needed one anyway and having the VC off makes the CAS a million times easier. Ran beautifully for about 10 minutes, then the same exact symptoms. Pretty much has to be coil pack at this point right? TrueChaos posted:Could be plugs / wires too. I'd do wires first, they're easier/less expensive than coil packs. Yeah, start squeezing plug wires. I discovered my set is going bad after I shocked the poo poo out of myself the other night.
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Apr 24, 2014 05:46
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craig588 posted:Haha, remember when we told you springs don't wear out? You just won that debate. Yeah, 8 years of Wisconsin winters will do that to a car, sadly. I've resigned myself to just parting out what I can from the Miata once my credit cards are paid off and buying something new. Once upon a time I dreamed of stuffing a 20b in this thing  Edit: so, considering I will need new springs after all, should I just go with yellows plus stock springs or is there a better all in one setup for 600 or less? The MUMPSorceress fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Apr 24, 2014 |
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Apr 24, 2014 05:52
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Beach Bum posted:Yeah, start squeezing plug wires. I discovered my set is going bad after I shocked the poo poo out of myself the other night. Plugs are a few months old, PO replaced the wires before I bought it so they have less than 2000 miles on them. I did play with every wire and connection on each end with no change. Gonna try the coil pack first then wires.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:18
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So after hearing the latest invoice for repairs on my 1999 Volvo S80 I'm thinking it's time to buy a new car. I thought about going to the "what car should I get" thread, but I already have a pretty good idea based on price and what I want out of it, so I figured I'd ask a few questions here instead. Now that I have a little more money than I did when I got the Volvo, and I kinda want something fun too, a Miata sounds pretty good. Anyways, does anyone have experience with Mazda dealerships around Connecticut? This is also my first time really making a big auto purchase. I bought the Volvo through an auto repair place my family's gone to for years, and I've had it for a decade. I figure the Miata will take a bit more effort. Does anyone have any advice on purchasing something like this in general? I know to take it to an independent repair place to be checked out if possible. Is there anything else I should know? How far to negotiate with a used car place, or how much over the sticker price to put up with before walking? Things like that.
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Apr 25, 2014 23:08
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What's your budget?
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Apr 25, 2014 23:13
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Adventure Pigeon posted:This is also my first time really making a big auto purchase. I bought the Volvo through an auto repair place my family's gone to for years, and I've had it for a decade. I figure the Miata will take a bit more effort. Quite the opposite actually, compared to your Volvo a Miata will be a walk in the park. Also don't buy a used Miata from a dealer.
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Apr 25, 2014 23:53
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Phone posted:What's your budget? 15-20k leica posted:Quite the opposite actually, compared to your Volvo a Miata will be a walk in the park. Where do you think the best place to look would be?
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Apr 26, 2014 00:20
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Craigslist. Go buy a used NC2 or NC3 (basically 09+). There should be plenty of next to no mile examples out there. Only concern is that the prices are going to be a bit inflated because it's now spring.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:23
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I went the other way to a Volvo and fondly remember NA-NB Miata as slightly cramped but a lot more straightforward in terms of maintenance. And not a torx in sight.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:56
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Adventure Pigeon posted:15-20k If you're looking to get a NC you might not have much of a choice, but go private party if you can, you'll save a lot of money and buying through used car dealerships sucks donkey balls.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:46
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Can you mount wheels on an NB Miata body without any brake rotors? I'm assuming not and they'll bump into things, but it'd make saving the big brake kit from this car easier before I load the body onto a trailer for scrap. Edit: Why am I reusing brake rotors? They're so new they still have the machining marks, you can't see any sort of brake wear on them. craig588 fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 23:49
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craig588 posted:Can you mount wheels on an NB Miata body without any brake rotors? I'm assuming not and they'll bump into things, but it'd make saving the big brake kit from this car easier before I load the body onto a trailer for scrap. Not sure I fully understand what you're trying to do, but maybe a ton of washers would suffice?
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Apr 28, 2014 02:34
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If you're just pulling it onto the trailer gently caress it. If the lugnuts are open ended you should be fine, if not things might be a bit wobbly.
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Apr 28, 2014 02:56
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All you'd need is a couple of spacers on two opposing studs to take up any potential wobble room. Maybe like larger diameter nuts or a piece of plywood.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:05
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Ah, good idea about the washers, thanks. If I'm lucky I'll have this car gone and just a pile of parts by next weekend.
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Apr 28, 2014 05:56
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:There's worse pictures on Autotrader. I've been scanning them daily. Looks to be a poo poo year to own 99 AE in Ontario 
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Apr 30, 2014 22:31
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