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There's this amazing thing called "comparison shopping" that requires just a bit of effort.
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Apr 24, 2014 22:39
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Cheap Dude this is the BMW thread...you and I both know you only get to choose one.
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Apr 24, 2014 23:43
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MrChips posted:Dude this is the BMW thread...you and I both know you only get to choose one. It really only applies to British cars- BMW you get 1.5 of the options.
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Apr 24, 2014 23:47
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Kenshin posted:There's this amazing thing called "comparison shopping" that requires just a bit of effort. No poo poo. Thanks for the helpful response. Did you miss the part where I said ebay et al for comparing prices? What in the gently caress did you think I meant? Honestly don't know what BMW I'm ultimately going to get but I'm trying to soak up as much useful info here so thanks for the actual helpful responses. This will be my first car I ever buy so sorry if I'm a bit noob. Not deterred by purchase or maintenance cost. Edit: I want a BMW but don't know what I want yet. I'm fortunate to not need a car so it will be a nice-to-have purchase. hellzno fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 00:31
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info: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=141 http://f10.5post.com/forums/ Pricing forum: http://f10.5post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=312
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Apr 25, 2014 02:14
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hellzno posted:No poo poo. Thanks for the helpful response. Did you miss the part where I said ebay et al for comparing prices? What in the gently caress did you think I meant? Try these things: 1. Budget 2. What you want out of the car 3. Newer with a warranty or older with working on it or finding a good local mechanic? If you can answer those questions then you'll be a lot closer to getting help.
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Apr 25, 2014 02:50
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Kenshin posted:Maybe you should figure out what you want by narrowing it down before just asking us. I asked all of three questions. One about a specific car and two related on places to compare cars / prices. I'm in my preliminary search phase and I appreciate advice on where to look (dealer, craigslist) and where to get a rough idea of prices (bimmerfest, f10). I'm sorry I hosed up your BMW thread with all of three questions  .
hellzno fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 03:18
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hellzno posted:I asked all of three questions. One about a specific car and two related on places to compare cars / prices. I'm in my preliminary search phase and I appreciate advice on where to look (dealer, craigslist) and where to get a rough idea of prices (bimmerfest, f10). No really you should answer those 3 questions. People are not just trying to be dicks to you. It actually takes a fair amount of work to valuate a used BMW, you'll get ripped off if you go "I'm gonna buy a BMW today".
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Apr 25, 2014 03:34
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Popete posted:No really you should answer those 3 questions. People are not just trying to be dicks to you. It actually takes a fair amount of work to valuate a used BMW, you'll get ripped off if you go "I'm gonna buy a BMW today". All I really asked was: 1) was the Carmax F10 overpriced: answer was yes (I even admitted as much) 2) where's a good place to look: craigslist (west coast), dealers 3) good places to research prices: bimmerfest, f10 forums You'll notice that two of my three questions were related to how to start my research. Kenshin's questions are common sense and have no bearing on my questions on HOW TO START MY RESEARCH (which is what I was asking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). So yes, he was being a dick and is backtracking. The other posts were actually helpful (notice how they answered my questions?). hellzno fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 03:43
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He's not being a dick, you are. You said you're not sure what model you want, we're trying to help you narrow it down and give useful suggestions. To aid your search. If you're just going to start yelling at people that are trying to help you, then you can go eat a value-sized box of dicks.
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Apr 25, 2014 03:50
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HotCanadianChick posted:He's not being a dick, you are. You said you're not sure what model you want, we're trying to help you narrow it down and give useful suggestions. To aid your search. If you're just going to start yelling at people that are trying to help you, then you can go eat a value-sized box of dicks. Kenshin posted:There's this amazing thing called "comparison shopping" that requires just a bit of effort. You're totally right. Sorry. I'll take a look at craigslist and dealers and try to narrow down my list. Sorry for wasting everyone's time! 
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Apr 25, 2014 03:55
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Dude you've been on this forum long enough that you shouldn't be getting your feelings hurt by a bit of sarcasm. Posting a link to a car and asking if the price is good isn't telling us your budget. Tell us your budget. Then tell us what you're looking for in a car. Then use the suggested search criteria to search for some of the specific suggestions we give you. I'm not trying to be a dick. Calm the gently caress down.
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Apr 25, 2014 03:57
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You know what, you're the perfect BMW owner. Have fun with your 5 series.
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Apr 25, 2014 03:58
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Kenshin posted:Dude you've been on this forum long enough that you shouldn't be getting your feelings hurt by a bit of sarcasm. I'm sorry I missed the part where I asked for your help narrowing down my search. I asked for some advice on how to get my search started and I got my answers. Thanks. I'll come back when I'm not apparently upsetting everyone by asking where to start my search and how to research prices. Popete posted:You know what, you're the perfect BMW owner. Have fun with your 5 series. My feelings 
hellzno fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 03:59
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hellzno posted:I'm sorry I missed the part where I asked for your help narrowing down my search. I asked for some advice on how to get my search started and I got my answers. Thanks. I'll come back when I'm not apparently upsetting everyone by asking where to start my search and how to research prices. You might really enjoy the BFC meets AI car recommendation thread. They got mad I didn't get the 5 series GT but I am loving my sedan.
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Apr 25, 2014 04:27
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Ultimate Mango posted:You might really enjoy the BFC meets AI car recommendation thread. Thanks, I'll definitely check that out.
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Apr 25, 2014 04:29
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If it makes everyone feel better; I still love my 335i. Jb+ and trans flash done. Whooooweeee
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Apr 25, 2014 06:21
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LMAOPopete posted:This is a BMW Thread: You know what, you're the perfect BMW owner. Have fun with your 5 series. My pleb mobile 3 series touring continues to run flawlessly, coming up on 15 months of ownership and all I've had to replace is the VANOS solenoid and a window regulator. Its time for another hilariously expensive twice-semesterly oil change tomorrow.  Rotella! But other than that I've been pleasantly surprised with my transition away from e36s.
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Apr 25, 2014 09:10
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You're putting diced tomatoes in your engine?
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Apr 25, 2014 12:24
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Cojawfee posted:You're putting diced tomatoes in your engine? Well, some BMWs are made in Mexico... 
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Apr 25, 2014 12:50
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I noticed the ping noise in the rear has stopped which I immediately thought might be the *gasp* rear sub-frame tear. Still going next week to (pending inspection) replace the RCABs and rear subframe bushings. Are there other bushings that should be done in the rear? I still have to do the front passenger control arm but I'm gonna attempt that myself since the only bushing I'll have to muck with is the FCAB.
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Apr 25, 2014 15:05
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If you're pulling the rear subframe you might as well do the diff bushings while you're at it, also RTABs. Hell, if you're pulling the subframe you might as well get the reinforcement plates welded in.
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Apr 25, 2014 15:07
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Unless you have an early model 95 without reinforcements I highly, highly doubt you have torn subframe mounts. My money would be on loose/worn front diff bushing or maybe worn subframe bushings. If you're getting subframe mounts done, absolutely do the front diff bushing while it's out.
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Apr 25, 2014 16:57
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I have a 96, it's my understanding that the M3 is less likely to tear than a normal 3 series. So don't bother with the rear diff mounts, just do the front? I'm guessing you guys are talking about this kit. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3126-rear-differential-mounts-rubber-e36-e36-m3.aspx
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Apr 25, 2014 17:06
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You're likely to have the reinforcement plates on a 96 MY car, so I would worry about replacing your RTABs first and see if that fixes it.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:10
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Yeah reading up on the sub frame stuff I'm hoping just replacing RTABs fixes the loose rear end. As long as it's not an arm and a leg I'm just gonna have my mechanic do the RTABs cause I don't have a press and my garage is at my parents 4 hours away. I just don't have the time do the job in 1 weekend with travel.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:17
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You can diy it pretty easily though. I think there's someone on here that claimed to do it in 2hrs per side. You don't need a press if you upgrade to poly RTABs but you will need something like a hacksaw to cut the bushing sleeve.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:13
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Coming up on one year of ownership of my 2013 Civic M3. Happy to report not a single issue. My pleb sled will hopefully continue to be reliable.
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Apr 25, 2014 22:04
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BraveUlysses posted:You can diy it pretty easily though. I think there's someone on here that claimed to do it in 2hrs per side. 2 hours per side is doable, but I'd say that's if you've done it before. Easy steps to DIY e36/e46 RTABS: Tools required: -11/16" (or 12mm) threaded rod + 2 washers and nuts -2" Sch 40 pipe caps -Hacksaw where the blade extends out -Bigass screwdriver -Cordless drill with a large bit you don't care about (or if you can find it, the right size holesaw that is also long) -BFH Removal is first. Use the drill and drill as many holes in the rubber bushing as you can. Run the drill in reverse/forward and angle it in to cut out chunks of rubber. Once the bushing is like swiss cheese, pry out the inner steel part. Sometimes you can hammer it out as well. If the old style RTABs with the metal shoulder are pressed in, this is where the hacksaw comes in. Basically you need to saw into the bushing's outer sleeve until you reach the trailing arm. Don't go too fast and check periodically so you don't start cutting the trailing arm itself. If the newer style split bushings are pressed in, you shouldn't need to do this step. Next, take the screwdriver and start hammering on the bushing lip near the cut. Pound the outer metal sleeve inward until you can pry it out. Work your way from one side to the other. Now time for installation. First off, lube the bushing with dish soap and start pressing it into the housing by hand. Then assemble the 11/16" rod, nuts and pipe cap as shown. With two wrenches start turning the nuts to press it in. If it goes in crooked, use a mallet to tape it straight. Keep going until the pipe caps bottom out. With the split bushings you won't get it perfectly even on both sides, but that isn't really a big deal.      Basically RTABs are the cheapest bushing to replace on the car, they only cost 20 bucks each and can be done with the only extra cost being pipe caps.
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Apr 25, 2014 22:58
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1998 750il with unknown mileage. Listed for sub 3k at the local used dealer specializing in euro trash. Pictures look surprisingly clean. Vin: WBAGK2321WDH69061 What to look for mechanically tomorrow?
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Apr 26, 2014 03:39
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mythadile posted:1998 750il with unknown mileage. Listed for sub 3k at the local used dealer specializing in euro trash. Pictures look surprisingly clean. Vin: WBAGK2321WDH69061 Everything. The saying goes, only two kinds of people should own an off-warranty 7 series: millionaires and BMW mechanics. (also expect to spend at least double, if not triple that 3k asking price in things that break each year)
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Apr 26, 2014 03:42
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mythadile posted:1998 750il with unknown mileage. Listed for sub 3k at the local used dealer specializing in euro trash. Pictures look surprisingly clean. Vin: WBAGK2321WDH69061 Just think about it this way. You could spend about $1,000 a month on a newer 7-series, or you could spend the same amount averaged out over several years in repairs and maintenance costs on an older one. If you have an aversion to spending large amounts of cash at one time for repairs this is not the vehicle for you. On the flip side, if you are OK with spending $1,000 a month on a classy automobile go right ahead. Just realize that your cash flows towards maintenance might be $4,000 one month and then $0 for 12 months, or any combination of dollar figures over time. If you can deal with that and plan on keeping the car till you can average the cost down over eternity it's probably a good deal. To put this into perspective, I own an out of warranty 10 year old AMG Mercedes and in my judgment would never purchase an out of warranty BMW 7 series or any kind of Audi period heated game moment fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 03:54
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Crustashio posted:Unless you have an early model 95 without reinforcements I highly, highly doubt you have torn subframe mounts. My money would be on loose/worn front diff bushing or maybe worn subframe bushings.  I have a 95 318i - do the smaller engine models tear the mounts out too?
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Apr 26, 2014 04:14
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I went to BMW Las Vegas tonight and drove a base 228i with power seats, xeons, and the 8speed. I have a n54 135i and wanted to compare. Engine is splendid for what it is. Torque is plentiful, it feels smooth and not like a weed wacker. If BMW is pumping sound into the cabin I am alright with that. The added bass of the revs is very pleasing. The 8sp is wonderful in sport mode with smooth, quick shifts. It really is wonderful. Wow. The steering is lighter but responsive to bumps. I didnt mind it at all but prefer the 135i. Inside is where the car loses me. It is busy! At the same time, the instrument cluster is too sterile. The flat black plastic backing has gauges that seem glued on. Odd. The dash angles are all over the place with the radio and climate control stack pushed way out, sharp lines proudly displaying the hard plastic dash, and the distracting idrive screen. The non-sport steering wheel is very thin and made of what feels like 100% plastic. http://imgur.com/a/cn5Zh Enjoy the 228i vs 135i pics and the other beauty I spotted. gigButt fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 05:33
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mythadile posted:1998 750il with unknown mileage. Listed for sub 3k at the local used dealer specializing in euro trash. Pictures look surprisingly clean. Vin: WBAGK2321WDH69061 I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but you've stumbled upon  that cheap 90's 7 series that haunts small lovely dealerships all over North America. Don't buy that 7 series. It's cursed and travels around ruining peoples lives. Its always under 5k and looks great and seems like a good deal. It is not a good deal and will ruin you unless you have a war chest of money for repairs.
8ender fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 05:39
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gigButt posted:http://imgur.com/a/cn5Zh Yeah, that 228i looks OK, but I reckon you should get the B7 instead. This may be a controversial statement, but I think the B7 is the nicer car... On a more serious note, the sticker says it has active cruise control. Where is the sensor? I ask because I'm looking for a 5 series with it and there are stacks of cars on the market claiming to have it but no sensor visible. I know from e60/90 series that it's most likely a case of a dickhead seller thinking "I have CC, that MUST be the expensive option I didn't ask or pay for", but have they actually hidden it in the F generation bodies? I haven't seen it on any. Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 05:57
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8ender posted:I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but you've stumbled upon Thanks everybody that answered, this is pretty much what I thought going in. Reviews on random sites are potentially misleading and say things like "only had to replace a water pump in 100k." I was tricking myself into believing if the engine was strong, it drove straight, and hit its shift points that I might roll the dice.
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Apr 26, 2014 13:58
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mythadile posted:Thanks everybody that answered, this is pretty much what I thought going in. Reviews on random sites are potentially misleading and say things like "only had to replace a water pump in 100k." I was tricking myself into believing if the engine was strong, it drove straight, and hit its shift points that I might roll the dice.
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Apr 26, 2014 14:47
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With the V12 you are just asking for problems, just double everything cost wise. Plus half the poo poo is v12 specific and not compatible with anything. If I was to do a 7 series, it would be a V8 powered model. At least some of the poo poo crosses into other models.
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Apr 26, 2014 15:01
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gigButt posted:http://imgur.com/a/cn5Zh Frozen paint is so freaking rad. When I first heard about it I read up on what it takes for care and maintenance and I just don't know if I could cope with being constantly aware of keeping it from getting messed up.
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Apr 26, 2014 16:03
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