|
kalvick posted:got another problem, I have a kenwood reciever, it has bluetooth capability and comes with a really lovely microphone. Everyone says they cant hear me or I sound like I am at the end of a really long tunnel. Is there an aftermarket car microphone that isnt make by the lowest bidder? Im looking for something that people can hear me, when I am in my "loud" car http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xclarion+RCB199&_nkw=clarion+RCB199&_sacat=0&_from=R40 ... in a lifted jeep to great success. Haven't tried it in my Mustang, so I can't swear the exhaust won't overpower it, but it should work.
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2014 03:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 17:39 |
|
|
Krakkles posted:I use this one: well, I just upgraded the firmware in my receiver, then deleted my phone and repaired it and everything seems to work now!
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 01:19
|
|
|
Am I doing this right? My rear end is the 3.73 for now, but will be switching to 3.31s. The wheels are 18x9 front and 18x10 rear. Ultralights give me a 1.5" drop. Fronts:  Rears: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 04:33
|
|
|
With those sizes the new tires will be about an inch taller, combined with the width and the drop they'd probably rub. You'll want 275/40 R18 in front, 3015/35 R18 in back to maintain your current tire diameter. Changing your axle ratio will throw off the speedo/odometer readings independently of tire size, though. Your car's new enough that you may be able to get the ECU recalibrated for the new gears, but someone else would be better able to answer that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 10:03
|
|
|
I don't know about other model year Mustangs but on the 99-04 mustangs 305 wide tires on a 10" wide wheel, will make the tire bulge. I run with a 1.5" or so drop. I think the widest tire you can get on a 18x10 is a 285-35-18. The widest in the front with a drop would be 265-35-18. I have heard that you want a different size tire like a 265-40-18 in the front, but I always run the same side wall. 305-35-17 tires would work in your application, but not on an 18 inch wheel.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 16:48
|
|
|
kalvick posted:I have heard that you want a different size tire like It's probably not a huge issue on most cars, but it would be a bad idea on an AWD vehicle, for example. And it'd be one of the first places I'd look for weird handling issues.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 17:24
|
|
|
Does having offset wheel sizes 35 vs 40 manage to mess with with mileage of the car? when I got my 18" tires, they where physically taller than my stock 17's so I had a tuner reprogram the computer to account for that. does wall height affect it too? I know its 5 of a difference but you know, Im pretty anal about mileage reporting. I only have 22900 miles on the car.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 18:23
|
|
|
It shouldn't, no. The only thing I'd look out for might be making sure that when you reprogram the ECU, you consider which end of the car the speed sensor is on (probably back) and that the tire size you use matches. (So don't correct for the size of the front tires if they're different from the rear tires, where the sensor is, or vice versa.)
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 18:37
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:With those sizes the new tires will be about an inch taller, combined with the width and the drop they'd probably rub. You'll want 275/40 R18 in front, 3015/35 R18 in back to maintain your current tire diameter. There are options in Xcal to change the rear tire size, but my tuner is scared that there is the potential for the sizes I'm using to be outside the bounds of what the tuner can set parameters for. kalvick posted:I don't know about other model year Mustangs but on the 99-04 mustangs 305 wide tires on a 10" wide wheel, will make the tire bulge. The tires in question are nitto 555 fronts and 555r rears, which tend to run skinny.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 20:01
|
|
|
Where are you gonna get the tires from?
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 20:04
|
|
|
I have the rears, I'm sourcing the fronts from Discount Tire Direct as their ebay sales are pretty much amazing. The plan is to install MM C&C plates, tune suspension and mount tires before my first Laguna Seca track day.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 20:07
|
|
|
bowling 4 buttcoins posted:I have the rears, I'm sourcing the fronts from Discount Tire Direct as their ebay sales are pretty much amazing. NICE, you wont be disappointed!
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2014 20:21
|
|
|
I'm in need of a new engine for my road race 96 GT 4.6 2v. The max power it should ever make is 267rwhp. Only engine mods I have are BBK timing adjuster, BBK fuel pressure regulator, PI heads/intake, stock manifolds, and off road x-pipe (long tubes are allowed, but haven't needed them). So, an essentially stock with a few bolt-ons engine. Ideal horsepower is 260-265, and we're not allowed to tune the car. I'm 99% sure why the motor is making GBS threads the bed on me. Compression in cylinder #1 is 85 psi, but it's still making 252rwhp/296tq, down from 267rwhp/307tq in January this year. It's likely due to some issues I had early last year, which have now been fixed, but were probably fixed a little too late. The current engine has already been rebuilt once and bored .020 over, so I've got a new (used) non-bored block and crank ready to be machined. I've looked at a few different options so far: 1. Buying a short block from MMR, DSS, Cushman, etc and putting the rest of it together myself. 2. Machining the new-to-me block and crank, buying new pistons, rods, bearings, etc. and having the rotating assembly balanced, and then either a. Assembling everything myself. b. Finding a shop that actually knows what their doing to assemble the long (or short) block. 3. Find a low mileage junkyard motor and replace the rings and bearings, drive the piss out of it Option 3 is the easiest and likely the cheapest as well, assuming I don't get an engine that was already on its last leg. Option 1 is likely cheaper than 2, but more expensive than 3. According to the internet a pre-built short block will either be the best thing since sliced bread or will somehow burn my house down and get my wife pregnant. And then there's option 2, which is what I've been leaning towards. There are a few problems I have with 2. If I built the short block myself, I will likely not be buying all the tools required to do all the clearance and tolerance checks, which probably makes all the money I've spent on the engine a waste. If I have someone else assemble the block, I do want them to ensure that all the tolerances are in spec and it's as tight or tighter than a factory motor. I would also like said person/shop to have built some mod motors before. I'm in Houston, and while we have some shops around here, some don't want to mess with 2v's, and others seem to have mixed reviews on the quality of their work. I'm willing to drive somewhere within a few hours (Dallas, Austin, etc) to get the work done, so I'm not limiting myself to Houston. tldr: Anyone have mod motor builder/machine shop recommendations for Houston/Dallas/Austin area? What is the consensus on the pre-built short blocks from MMR, DSS, etc? I drive a BBW fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Apr 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 16:59
|
|
|
New edge/SN95 gents, what up with this console cover? Looks like something is supposed to slide and lock in there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 00:37
|
|
|
Crosspost from my thread: Dads 2012 v6 auto with my coworkers mustang 2.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 01:55
|
|
|
Cage posted:New edge/SN95 gents, what up with this console cover? I've seen those on other cars, I think they are for those lil packs of tissues.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 02:44
|
|
|
Maybe for them new-fangled cas-ettey tapes them kids're blastin from their jap-o cars these days.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 02:50
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:I've seen those on other cars, I think they are for those lil packs of tissues. agreed this is what they are for
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 02:57
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:I've seen those on other cars, I think they are for those lil packs of tissues. I guess mustang owners must cry a lot in their cars? Wait wait wait, its for the V6 convertible models that daddy buys his little girl so 5 years down the road she can cry and have daddy issues right? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 17:06
|
|
|
Cage posted:Anyone ever deal with P0174 on their new edge? I started getting it yesterday morning, car seems to run fine otherwise. I have noticed slightly more exhaust smell when starting the car or sitting at red lights, so Im hoping its just an easy exhaust leak somewhere. Idle isn't too rough but it could be better, varies between 800-1000. Before I get it checked out I figure I can give the mass airflow a cleaning to see if that'll fix it, lot of people suggesting that when you google the code. Tide posted:That's a pretty common error code. Off the top of my head, the 02 sensor on the pax side (I think) is picking up a lean condition which can be bad 02 sensor, vacuum leak, dirty MAF, or a couple other minor things. Shouldn't be too hard to troubleshoot.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 19:28
|
|
|
It would be worth your time to get a proper scanner on there that can tell you more than just codes, and show you what your longterm / shortterm fuel trims are at. Your bank 2 trims are close to maxed out (thus the P0174) but if you're not seeing bank 1 code, and those trims are more 'normal', then it's far more likely you have a dead O2 sensor. If the bank 1 trims are nearly as far off and just haven't set a code there yet, then I'd continue checking up on the engine itself, but having only one side reporting too lean doesn't leave too many places where it could be.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 20:13
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It would be worth your time to get a proper scanner on there that can tell you more than just codes, and show you what your longterm / shortterm fuel trims are at. Your bank 2 trims are close to maxed out (thus the P0174) but if you're not seeing bank 1 code, and those trims are more 'normal', then it's far more likely you have a dead O2 sensor. Or is there a more specialized mechanics scanner you're talking about?
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 20:19
|
|
|
Torque will do the job just fine for that. If your bank 2 trims are much higher than your bank 1 trims, I'd do the O2 first since that's more likely than a vacuum leak only affecting that side of the engine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 20:23
|
|
|
bowling 4 buttcoins, did you get the tires yet? Im interested to see how those Nitto's fit? if the 305 fit on an 18" wheel, I may get some too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2014 16:56
|
|
|
Anyone else happy that just using the line lock feature in the new mustang will not void a warranty? I was really pissed for a minute thinking that using a car feature would void the warranty.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 20:18
|
|
|
Got a chin spoiler and tail light tint. I don't feel too bad about buying so many cosmetic items, it goes fast enough for me and has a neat rumble already. Craigslist helps too.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 01:47
|
|
|
That looks rad man. I remember when these were new and I was helping my dad rebuild wrecked ones.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 07:15
|
|
|
kalvick posted:bowling 4 buttcoins, did you get the tires yet? Im interested to see how those Nitto's fit? American Muscle has packaged and attempted to send me the wrong Maximum Motorsports camber plates (2011+ instead of GT500) and now I'm missing my deadline completely for finishing the car before a big drive because the plates will arrive Friday. Since everything is pushed back I can slow the build down again and catch a breath. The NT555/555R family runs a little skinny, (305 is really the size of a normal 295) which I'm set on. I'm still trying to figure out rear size profile -- I figure you'd would want alot of sidewall for the rear tire, and it would definitely help with launches. Just want to be done with it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 06:12
|
|
|
You know as well as anyone you are NEVER done with it
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 15:44
|
|
|
I just bought a set of nitto 555 and went with 285-35-18. HOLY CRAP! Just got them installed. They are slightly bigger than the Summitomo's. I can get only 1 finger between the tire and the wheel wells in the back, and 2 fingers up in the front! They are a lot more sticky than my old tires too! Any case 2 of the center caps where extremely brittle and broke off when I got the tires installed. I am upset because replacements are like 30 to 40 bucks each for a piece of plastic! ugg. In other news, I am thinking about running a set of forward offset A-arms in the front, when I do the kmember. the wheels will be pushed forward 3/4", do any of you know if I have to get the fenders rolled or remove some of the wheel well shielding so my tires can turn lock to lock? kalvick fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Apr 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 16:03
|
|
|
2 sets of questions. 2011 gt. I just started hearing the squealing usually associated with needing new brake pads. Tomorrow I'm going to peek up under but I think it's the rears. I have the Brembo pack but I think the rear pads are the same as the non Brembo right? I've read that the Brembo pads are really easy to replace if it turns out that I have to replace them right? What's a good place to get the replacement pads? 2nd question, I have the shaker 500 system but I want to replace the stock speakers and amps, I already have 5x7 replacements in mind and I'll be using 2 12" subs in trunk so I was wondering if there are any midrange or midbass type speakers that will fit in the stock 8" door subwoofer location? What have any of you done with your systems? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 01:44
|
|
|
How many miles do you have on the car? I would be really surprised if the rears needing replacing. Any number of places can supply them, just go with your favorite vendor. The prices shouldn't vary much. To the second, there was a post somewhere here that detailed the replacement of the door speakers. YouTube probably had tons of videos doing installs. It's got every other how to available. I never messed with mine, as I thought the shaker sounded fine.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 03:35
|
|
|
BJA posted:2 sets of questions. 2011 gt. I left the Shaker system intact in my 2007 GT hardtop and added a 12" sub and amp (got a kicker sub/amp combo on a weekend sale at best Buy) in a custom enclosure like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3YHDM0/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item Found a guy down the street from my place who does installs and had him do it. Note that there are enclosures made to fit hardtops and different ones for convertibles. They have enclosures that fit better for 2-3x the price, I may lose all self control and spring for one at some point. That one is pretty solid and not overbearing, though. Looks like Amazon added listings for even cheaper ones too ($100 for a custom box isn't that bad though, IMO).
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 06:26
|
|
|
Thoughts on the spoilerless look? I would love a cobra spoiler, but $500 is a pretty crazy price for what it actually is. 
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 22:04
|
|
|
I don't like having holes in the decklid more than liking the spoilerless look. if you get them filled in and painted. I am OK!
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 22:31
|
|
|
kalvick posted:I don't like having holes in the decklid more than liking the spoilerless look. if you get them filled in and painted. I am OK!
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 22:39
|
|
|
I have 24k miles. I haven't had time to peek up under yet since but it just started about 2 days ago. If it's the front can I get the brembo pads pretty much anywhere? About the stereo system, I've already got 2 12s a box and amps from my last car and figured I'd replace the 8s since they are kinda redundant with the 12s and from what ive read other than the stock speakers and the Rockford fosgate units from the gt500 not much else fits due to depth and magnet diameter. I guess I will just use some 6.5" or something and make a plate adapter or something at work.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 23:13
|
|
|
Cage posted:Thoughts on the spoilerless look? I would love a cobra spoiler, but $500 is a pretty crazy price for what it actually is. No spoiler looks great but the sun will chew up the center brake light. http://www.bullittarchive.com/1016.htm How do you clean your back window with the louvers glued on?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 03:39
|
|
|
thebigcow posted:No spoiler looks great but the sun will chew up the center brake light. http://www.bullittarchive.com/1016.htm As for the center brake light I imagine Ill just pick up a strip of tint so that it matches my tail lights. Cage fucked around with this message at 03:49 on May 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 03:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 17:39 |
|
|
Any issues to know about before I go and look at 2000 V6 mustang?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 17:06
|
|
