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Ignoarints posted:I was going to ask if you changed adapters since those can be totally lovely, but no a new monitor is definitely the right answer. I'm pretty sure that monitor you linked will be roughly the same price as a bunch of 24's. I'd probably find something on sale that you like since budget is important It's currently the cheapest 24 inch 1080p monitor I can find in Sweden. 990 SEK which is roughly $150, which is cheaper than I thought. No idea what you can get for $150 in the US but in Sweden that is a good price.
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Apr 25, 2014 22:23
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Oh Sweden nm. yes they are good, and that is a good price
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Apr 25, 2014 22:34
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I need to upgrade from my HD5550 and I was looking into the EVGA 750ti for gaming at 1080p/1200p I don't care if I can have max settings as long as most games run fine http://www.bestbuy.com/site/geforce...8&st=categoryid$pcmcat182300050008&cp=1&lp=3 This card here. I have an i5 3570k @ 4.2 and a 500w Earthwatts, will this be sufficient?
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Apr 25, 2014 22:38
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I need to upgrade from my HD5550 and I was looking into the EVGA 750ti for gaming at 1080p/1200p That's a bad price for a GTX 750 Ti, don't spend more than 150 dollars on one. If 200 dollars is your budget, you'd be way better off with an R9 270X. Are you going to be buying your card at Best Buy or were you just using it as a point of reference?
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Apr 25, 2014 22:47
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I need to upgrade from my HD5550 and I was looking into the EVGA 750ti for gaming at 1080p/1200p What games do you mainly play? Since if you like to play Arma 3 and some other heavier games you might want to consider a 760. But that's just my opinion, I'm no Nvidia expert seeing as how I've had my first Nvidia gpu for two days now.  Edit: AMD is cheaper than Nvidia so that might be worth considering. A R9 270X like Beautiful Ninja suggested might be a better choice.
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Apr 25, 2014 22:48
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Beautiful Ninja posted:That's a bad price for a GTX 750 Ti, don't spend more than 150 dollars on one. If 200 dollars is your budget, you'd be way better off with an R9 270X. Are you going to be buying your card at Best Buy or were you just using it as a point of reference? I'm going to get it from best buy but then have them pricematch down to a nearly similar product that's $170 I can't go up to a 760 because I'd have to get a new psu and that together is more than I'm willing to spend right now. I mainly just want to play DS2, D3, and things like Risen 2, saints row 4, and Arkham city at a not lovely fps, which this card typically does. (or i'll have to put it on 720p just to get 30fps on low on most things) I also am tired of amd, i've had it for years and I no longer want to buy their products. I guess it's also important that I want the card today, so I don't mind paying tax.
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Apr 25, 2014 22:54
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm going to get it from best buy but then have them pricematch down to a nearly similar product that's $170 You don't need to get a new PSU for a GTX 760, a solidly built 500w PSU like yours is plenty of power for the GPU, even the most power hungry R9 290X isn't going to make a solidly built 550w PSU sweat. It's still going to run you 250 dollars + tax though, so it'll be out of your current budget. A GTX 750 Ti is about as good as you can get for 170 bucks if you don't want to deal with AMD, the R7 265 is 150 and is generally faster but you can overcome most of that with how silly GTX 750 Ti's overclock.
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Apr 25, 2014 23:00
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Well, I'm definitely going to be sending my VGA back to NCIX Unrelated: Does anyone know if the ASRock Z87 Extreme4 onboard sound comes with a Stereo Mix option, or if anyone knows an alternative to it that works nicely with XSplit? It would make splicing sound into videos a lot easier. SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 00:50
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I ended up going to best buy and paid $158 after tax for a 750ti when they price matched amazon. It probably helps that I used to work there because their version is very very slightly different than the one on amazon.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:10
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When it comes to video cards does 4g of Ram make a big difference over 2gb?
Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 01:18
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For nvidia, not for a 760 or 770 - no. To make a long story short. By the time you need it (like really in the 6+ million pixel range) the performance is so poor it just doesn't matter.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:25
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^Thanks. Besides going with what is recommended in the OP what else should I be looking for from MSI/Sapphire/etc?
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Apr 26, 2014 01:27
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Sephiroth_IRA posted:Besides going with what is recommended in the OP what else should I be looking for from MSI/Sapphire/etc? There's not much more to it than just buying what you can afford. Some lines blur, but once you decide what you can afford then just stick with a major brand. Frankly sapphire is never really recommended. Asus, EVGA, MSI, ermm... Zotac, PNY, even Gigabyte (at least for nvidia) are all fine. If warranty is important to you (things like do you pay shipping) then you can make it simple and buy EVGA or Asus Note that there are very often variations of the same card (chipset) from the same manufacturer. This usually is increased factory clock speed, which is usually just as obtainable with a "lower" model via simple software overclock. However sometimes the actual cooler is different, the PCB is different (more robust power, etc), so once you kind of narrow in on one just make sure you take notice of the differences there. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 01:34
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Is a Radeon R9 290 with 4 GB DDR5 for under $400 a good idea for a video card right now? It looks like it's going to be a while until the next generation of either Nvidia or AMD cards are released.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:53
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Yeah man, assuming its good to go thats a good price.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:59
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Ignoarints posted:Yeah man, assuming its good to go thats a good price. Ok. Thanks.
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Apr 26, 2014 03:15
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I have two sticks of PC3-12800 (1600MHz) dual Data Rate RAM plugged in to my H87 chipset motherboard (Haswell) Is it dual data rate per pair, or do I need to install only in pairs of 2 to continue getting the dual data rate? I have 2x4GB and my home server doesn't need 16GB yet but I do need to upgrade to 12GB Will adding the third 4GB stick slow down the first two? Thanks
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Apr 26, 2014 05:48
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Hadlock posted:I have two sticks of PC3-12800 (1600MHz) dual Data Rate RAM plugged in to my H87 chipset motherboard (Haswell) The number of sticks doesn't really make a difference nowadays.
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Apr 26, 2014 06:03
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that said, it seems pretty silly to not just go up to 16GB. they'll get the "dual data rate" but you'll lose dual channel (I know that's what he meant) with three sticks in there, and RAM is so cheap, it's nice having 16GB, just spend another 40 bucks up front and open your computer once instead of twice.
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Apr 26, 2014 07:05
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Currently have a problem with the computer I built for my grandfather and I'm at a complete loss. Since I used the budget build in the OP, I'm posting it here since you guys might have a lightbulb go off: Was working perfectly for a couple weeks after I built it. He shut it off through Windows shutdown one night and the next morning, it wouldn't even post. I went over there tonight and the computer turns on; black screen other than a couple numbers in the bottom right corner, then it hangs on A2. This is on a MSI B85M-G43 micro-ATX. I reset the mobo battery, then restarted. It shows the components (like a normal post screen), then asks if I want to enter setup or go ahead with the default config. Either option immediately hangs the system. Hard reboot, then it goes back to the hang on A2 for as many times as you hard reboot. I thought it might be referring to the RAM slots so I dinked around with them, used one stick, different slots...no change. I am genuinely completely baffled at what's wrong with the thing other than possibly some random defective hardware. It was working perfectly until one morning. Any help is majorly appreciated.
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Apr 26, 2014 10:25
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The Joe Man posted:Currently have a problem with the computer I built for my grandfather and I'm at a complete loss. Since I used the budget build in the OP, I'm posting it here since you guys might have a lightbulb go off: Sounds like stuffed hardware if it's not POSTing and you've checked all the leads etc. RMA the Mobo?
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Apr 26, 2014 12:23
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Will this ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231180 and power supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004 work fine with a i7-4770k and this motherboard? http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=607911 Will pick up a Nvidia 760 video card later.
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Apr 26, 2014 20:38
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Straker posted:that said, it seems pretty silly to not just go up to 16GB. they'll get the "dual data rate" but you'll lose dual channel (I know that's what he meant) with three sticks in there, and RAM is so cheap, it's nice having 16GB, just spend another 40 bucks up front and open your computer once instead of twice. I'm installing SQL Server 2014 on one of the virtual machines so I want 4gb to hold the db in memory. I'm mainly concerned about performance and price So if I lose the dual channel is that a 20% cut in performance? Is there a table somewhere with this info? I'm looking for solid numbers but not finding anything or anyone with practical experience.
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Apr 26, 2014 20:44
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mpyro posted:Will this ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231180 and power supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004 work fine with a i7-4770k and this motherboard? http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=607911 That's 4 gigs of RAM. Don't cheap out on RAM. Especially with a hyperthreading processor and a full ATX motherboard what are you doing that you even need those. Go read the OP. Also whether a 760 is enough depends on how many pixels your monitor has and whether the 770 is that much more expensive (it usually isn't).
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Apr 26, 2014 21:04
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Sir Unimaginative posted:That's 4 gigs of RAM. Don't cheap out on RAM. Especially with a hyperthreading processor and a full ATX motherboard what are you doing that you even need those. Go read the OP. It is from my old computer. I have another 4gb of ram, just not sure what brand. So that is 4x2GB sticks totaling 8GB both the same speed. Currently running a 1920x1080 monitor with a 560 ti 448cores GPU.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:10
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Check in something like HWiNFO to make sure; anything over 1.5 V is hazardous to the CPU. ... Please tell me you did not already buy the motherboard and CPU.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:16
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Check in something like HWiNFO to make sure; anything over 1.5 V is hazardous to the CPU. I will be buying them at Microcenter next week. All 4 of my ram is 1.5v 2 are crucial and other 2 are gskill.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:16
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Well, go read the OP then. Like, until it stops being posts by ShaneB. If you don't want to for some reason, my problems with your plan boil down to: - Mixing RAM isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it'll all run at the lowest common ratings. Also the thing I mentioned about voltage earlier, and the memory controller's on the CPU now, hence the risk of damaging the CPU itself. EDIT: Okay that RAM is probably fine. - Hyperthreading is only very situationally useful (like heavy-duty creating your own better-than-Youtube-can-do videos), and at least from a games perspective it'll change your framerate by +/- (yes, minus) 2 fps - some games don't do well with hyperthreading's overhead. Not really worth 100 bucks over an i5. And you're going to need some heatsink to cool that if you intend to overclock - Hyper 212 EVO might buy you a couple multiplier points, but to get the most out of it you'll need a U14S or TC14PE or something, which cost 50 dollars more than the EVO. - A video card, sound card and wi-fi card can fit comfortably on a Micro-ATX board and SLi/CF is only worth it when you need more performance than any single card (save maybe a Titan) can provide. And in a pinch sound cards and wi-fi cards also come in USB. Thus, no good reason for full ATX anymore - and just about any motherboard will work in a standard ATX case just fine. - Also you can do better than that power supply. If you already have the power supply, and it's within three years of end of warranty, set aside funds and a calendar mark for replacing it. If it's within one year of end of warranty, do not bring it into the new build.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:26
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Well, go read the OP then. Like, until it stops being posts by ShaneB. I will be using it for 3d modeling and rendering. Also in games. Looks like Microcenter sells that CPU cooler, so will purchase it there. My headphones have built in sound through USB, so no need for a sound card. I was looking at that motherboard for the USB slots as well, since it has 6 and currently I am using 4. Think I will have to purchase a new case as well. Sounds like a new PSU might be needed. All those parts are from my old build from 2010.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:38
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sebmojo posted:Sounds like stuffed hardware if it's not POSTing and you've checked all the leads etc. RMA the Mobo? Like I mentioned, I checked the RAM and we get the very minor "DOS text" showing up so I'm assuming it's not the video card. No idea what else it could be. How do PSUs normally fail? I've never had experience with any that have gradually died other than one that spontaneously blew up on me. Could that also be the culprit with what I'm describing?
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Apr 26, 2014 22:19
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The Joe Man posted:How do PSUs normally fail? I've never had experience with any that have gradually died other than one that spontaneously blew up on me. Could that also be the culprit with what I'm describing? One of mine did when I was badly overloading it, unknowingly. It exploded in literal pops and smoke like small firecrackers.
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Apr 27, 2014 04:26
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I was advised that I should post this here: I've been an AMD guy since the late 90s but am now making the jump to Intel and I haven't built a gaming PC in ages. Also I've always had NVIDIA brand video cards but am now jumping to Radeon. Are they still a respectable brand? To be honest I'm rusty on what's the 'Hot' hardware nowadays in general, and I'd like to not make any mistakes since I'm on a tight budget and this is a pretty big buy for me. Here's what I'd like to grab from my computer store this coming Wednesday: Antec HCG-900 High Current Gamer 900W Power Supply - $159.99 Asus Z87-DELUXE Socket Gaming Intel Z87 Chipset ATX Motherboard - $289.99 Intel Gen 4 Core i7 4770K Quad-Core 3.5Ghz CPU - $369.99 Kingston Hyper-X RED 16GB Kit (2x8G) Dual Channel DDR3 1600Mhz CL10 - $179.99 Intel Generation3 530-Series 240GB SSD - $209.99 MSI AMD Radeon 270X Gaming 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Card - $254.99 Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Subtotal: $1464.94 I have a pretty nice case already and sound system and all that jazz so luckily I just need to upgrade the guts as mentioned above. Would this build be sufficient/recommended so I'll have little to no issues playing the latest games on high(est) settings? I'd like to stay around the price mentioned above if possible.
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Apr 27, 2014 06:36
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There is no need for a 900W power supply. 550W will suffice. If you are only gaming, an i5 is fine. Do you plan to overclock? If not, you don't need a -K chip or a Z87 motherboard. If so, you'll need a CPU cooler. The Samsung EVO SSD is recommended; you should find it cheaper then the Intel one you selected. Not sure about your resolution, so I cannot comment on your GPU.
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Apr 27, 2014 07:00
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Hadlock posted:I'm installing SQL Server 2014 on one of the virtual machines so I want 4gb to hold the db in memory. I'm mainly concerned about performance and price I think it's more like 2% except in weird corner cases like running modern games at incredibly low resolutions. 4 gig is actually enough for most normal applications (i was running win7 on 3 for ages and it was mostly fine) but 8 will give you more headroom.
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Apr 27, 2014 08:11
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KOMI posted:I was advised that I should post this here: Read the OP. And buy win 8.
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Apr 27, 2014 13:16
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Crackbone posted:Read the OP. And buy win 8. Ya, I jumped the gun and posted before fully reading the OP. My bad. After sitting down and reading peoples posts I have made revisions to my build: Antec HCG-620M High Current Gamer Series 620W ATX12V v2.3/EPS12V - $94.99 Asus B85M-E/CSM Socket 1150 Intel B85 Chipset Micro ATX Motherboard - $92.99 *Is this an acceptable choice for this build? Intel GEN 4 Core i5 4670K Quad-Core 3.4Ghz CPU - $254.99 Kingston Hyper-X RED 16GB Kit (2x8G) Dual Channel DDR3 1600Mhz CL10 - $179.99 Samsung MZ-7TE250BW 840 EVO 250GB SSD - $184.99 with the money I saved from the Mobo, PSU, and SSD I figured I would up the Video card: ASUS GTX770-DC2OC-2GD5 Nvidia GTX 770 Chipset (1058Mhz) 2GB (7010Mhz) PCI Express 3.0 - $389.99 I've had bad luck in the past with PSUs that were below 750W which is why I may have wanted to aim higher (originally 900W). I'm probably still overshooting on the RAM so I could just come down on that when I see what selection my local computer store has.. Like I said I'm not too bright on hardware so this is huge for me. I already have a Windows 7 64-bit license so I'd prefer to not have to buy Windows 8 if at all possible. KOMI fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 14:02
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KOMI posted:Ya, I jumped the gun and posted before fully reading the OP. My bad. After sitting down and reading peoples posts I have made revisions to my build: Definitely better. The reason you've had bad luck with PSUs in the past was probably because you were buying lovely quality units that actually can't deliver their rated power. The system you've posted will consume ~300w total under full load. If you've got Windows 7 license available, you're fine, it looked like you were going to be buying a new copy. Also, you should be able to get 16G of ram for ~ $120 online, and it's a commodity part, I definitely would not pay a $60 upcharge for it.
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Apr 27, 2014 14:10
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KOMI posted:Ya, I jumped the gun and posted before fully reading the OP. My bad. After sitting down and reading peoples posts I have made revisions to my build: You've chosen a B85 motherboard (no overclocking) and a -K model CPU (for overclocking). If you want to overclock, you need to switch to a z87 mobo, and get a nice cpu cooler. Otherwise replace the 4670K with a 4570. (you may still want the cooler to cut down on noise). You're likely to be able to get better featured B85 motherboards from MSI or Asrock at a slightly lower price. You don't need 16gigs of ram for gaming. For a similar price to what you're paying you could get a better quality PSU in the 450 to 500w range.
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Apr 27, 2014 14:27
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The Lord Bude posted:
I was under the impression that the PSU he has is actually fairly good. That being said, for a hundred clams you can pick up some really good SS PSUs.
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Apr 27, 2014 14:48
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The HCG-M series are fantastic, they are bronze modular seasonic units for a great price. But if you can get an X or XP series unit for similar money it is a no brainer.
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Apr 27, 2014 15:10
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