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Razzled posted:Was it mostly vibration or was wind buffeting pretty bad too? I'm curious to hear your experiences on the EX250 too as that will be what I use to lead into eventually getting a DRZ If you aren't super into spending tons of money on poo poo you won't use all the time, but still want something to stop some of the wind buffeting I just found out that these trash can windshields work drat nice on a DRZ: http://drriders.com/topic5258.html It removes an incredible amount of the wind that normally hits me right in the chest at speed...
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Apr 21, 2014 21:14
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If anyones actually looking for a DRZ windscreen, I have one of these in the dark gray, commuter-style sitting on the shelf: http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html I pulled it off when I bought my bike because I didn't love the look and rarely spend much time on the highway.
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Apr 21, 2014 22:17
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Honestly, as a two-time DRZ-SM owner, I can confidently say "skip the windshield" if all you're looking to do is block wind. None of them are particularly good at the job, all of them are rear end ugly. Riding a DRZ on the highway is rough at first, but you get used to it. The only reason to get one, is if you're looking to shield yourself from constant rain or something like that, and even then, most DRZ windshields wont be very good at that.
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Apr 21, 2014 22:32
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The Sumo-on-the-Highway trick I learned is to lean forward to the point where the wind pushing you back roughly equals the force your abs are exerting not flopping forward.
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Apr 22, 2014 01:29
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Safety Dance posted:The Sumo-on-the-Highway trick I learned is to lean forward to the point where the wind pushing you back roughly equals the force your abs are exerting not flopping forward. That's how you highway-ride on any bike. Other than something with sofalike back support like a Goldwing, I guess.
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Apr 22, 2014 02:23
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I pretend I'm Kenny Roberts on the Indy Mile straight and tuck down to bar level with my rear end slid way back on the seat. Works pretty well actually.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:16
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Yeah but you look like the biggest tool in a full race tuck at 60mph. I love rolling up to those people bolt upright on the drz
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Apr 22, 2014 03:24
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It's only really helpful when the crosswinds hit like 25-30 mph.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:31
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Razzled posted:Was it mostly vibration or was wind buffeting pretty bad too? I'm curious to hear your experiences on the EX250 too as that will be what I use to lead into eventually getting a DRZ It IS windy and the upright position makes it more awkward to lean forward. I had a Tuono and while that has a screen that takes wind off your chest after a while sitting upright in the wind gets tiring. The vibration wasn't too bad really just a light buzz although my hand was going numb, I've had other bikes do that too. I think I'm cold blooded and when I am just sitting motionless on a bike I get freezing real easy and my hands go numb. Main thing is that the bike is just straining to cruise at 75mph, and there is no roll on power past 60 or so. Honestly it's been a while since I rode an ex250 and I'm used to sports/standard bikes so it will take some adjustment to get into the sumo groove. I am used to effortless cruising, totally useless top speeds, and short travel suspension that doesn't move much. The ex is a standard that's light and just plain and simple. The WR is totally different. Kinda tough to compare. I'd say if you want a DRZ just get a DRZ.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:56
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Yerok posted:It's only really helpful when the crosswinds hit like 25-30 mph. It makes me feel like a tool, but there's no other way to cross this piece of poo poo at 70+ on a windy day without getting tossed into another lane.
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Apr 22, 2014 10:21
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Marxalot posted:It makes me feel like a tool, but there's no other way to cross this piece of poo poo at 70+ on a windy day without getting tossed into another lane. That tiny thing? I regularly ride across this baby at those speeds in heavy crosswinds without getting thrown around. Yes, it's flippin' huge and regularly has restrictions on tall+light vehicles due to crosswinds. Perhaps you're too tight on the controls? Maintaining a ~10 degree lean while going straight ahead is pretty fun once you let the bike sort itself out.
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Apr 22, 2014 10:46
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KozmoNaut posted:That tiny thing? It's not an issue unless it's really windy and you get a 30-40mph gust to the side all of the sudden. Steady wind is no problem at all if you just lean a bit.
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Apr 22, 2014 11:11
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Those pylons are big enough to comfortably house a 12-person elevator in each leg. I promise you that very few crosswinds can match the wind/calm/wind transition you get from riding past them.
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Apr 22, 2014 11:51
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Marxalot posted:It makes me feel like a tool, but there's no other way to cross this piece of poo poo at 70+ on a windy day without getting tossed into another lane. You're way too tight on the bars and tense if you're getting thrown into the next lane. Relax and keep your eyes up and forward and you'll naturally compensate for the wind with a minimum of movement.
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Apr 22, 2014 16:09
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I'll make a mental note of that next time the wind is bad and I'm going to work. I've never actually been tossed into another lane, but I do get moved more than I'm really comfortable with considering how screwed up the traffic on that thing gets.
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Apr 22, 2014 20:27
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Putting together a shopping list to finally mount the FCR I got for cheap on my drz, have all the jets and gaskets etc ordered but now i need to sort out the throttle cables. Will the E model cables fit in an SM throttle tube? The cables on there now for the mikuni won't work at the carb end, but a 20 quid set of E cables is an easier solution than the 100 quid motion pro set/trawling ebay for a complete E throttle assembly. edit: also learn from my mistakes, after all the poo poo i'm buying today my cheap FCR is really only saving me about 150 quid over buying a specific kit outright, and may still not work as i can't test it till I get the loving airbox adaptor. All due to lying ebay cunts that say "yeah this came off a running drz brah, for sure", it came jetted for something way bigger than a drz and missing an o-ring form the AP so no way was whatever it was on running properly echomadman fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 22:23
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E cables should work, I don't think there's a difference between the parts. You can check that the throttle assembly (not the tube) matches from E to S though and confirm for sure.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:32
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Marxalot posted:It makes me feel like a tool, but there's no other way to cross this piece of poo poo at 70+ on a windy day without getting tossed into another lane. Is that the Baytown bridge?
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Apr 23, 2014 01:42
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Yeah, that's 146 between Baytown and LaPorte.
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Apr 23, 2014 07:57
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I lost 10 pounds over winter from being a poor/not eating on a reasonable schedule because of engineering school. I just need to lose 20 more and it'll be like having a fat, slow KTM 625. But I might just snap in half if I stand up in the wind.
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Apr 23, 2014 22:23
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Yerok posted:I lost 10 pounds over winter from being a poor/not eating on a reasonable schedule because of engineering school. I just need to lose 20 more and it'll be like having a fat, slow KTM 625. But I might just snap in half if I stand up in the wind. Please eat a thing  .
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Apr 23, 2014 22:39
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It's brat season in Wisconsin now. Time to buy 10 packs of Klement's brats and eat all of them. Beer intake will also increase sharply after finals, and light beer is not a thing so I think it'll be okay
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Apr 23, 2014 23:14
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Any of you DRZ400SM bros ever swap out gas tanks and have any suggestions? Some googling led me to this: http://safaritanksusa.com/product_info.php?products_id=4 But that looks kind of ridiculous. I think Clarks USA makes a 3.9 gallon that might be good?
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Apr 24, 2014 16:02
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All of the oversize tanks look ridiculous in my opinion. You either stick with the good looking stocker and deal with your 90 mile range, or get the big goofy one and drive for 250 miles at a crack, depends on what you want
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Apr 24, 2014 16:04
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Is there any real concern over the oversized tanks being easier to puncture due to road hazards/dropping the bike? Since they don't look like they're protected by fairings.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:07
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Razzled posted:Is there any real concern over the oversized tanks being easier to puncture due to road hazards/dropping the bike? Since they don't look like they're protected by fairings. Not over the plastic tanks on any other dirt bike. I think the big thing with them is getting used to all that extra weight carried up high.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:09
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I really preferred the IMS tank over the clarke on the DRZ - 4.2 gallons of capacity and a nearly perfect replica of the stock setup, except now the wings carry fuel as well. Didn't cause the front of the seat to turn upwards like the Clarke does. That Safari tank looks cool too, although much bigger. There is very thick plastic on the wings, so abrasion usually isn't an issue in crashes.
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Apr 24, 2014 17:45
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Z3n posted:I really preferred the IMS tank over the clarke on the DRZ - 4.2 gallons of capacity and a nearly perfect replica of the stock setup, except now the wings carry fuel as well. Didn't cause the front of the seat to turn upwards like the Clarke does. That Safari tank looks cool too, although much bigger. Does the IMS 4 gallon allow you to use the stock shrouds? That price point seems pretty good-- I doubt I'd need 28 liters from the Safari, but I do want something more than the stock tank. e: looks like only the 3.2 allows the use of the stock shrouds, still 3.2 gallons seems pretty good Razzled fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Apr 24, 2014 |
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Apr 24, 2014 18:13
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On some of the bigger tanks, the tank *is* the shrouds.
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Apr 24, 2014 20:12
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I liked the 4 gallon (not 4.2, forgot about that) where the tank was the shrouds: http://www.imsproducts.com/Products...zeSet=4.0%20gal They covered it in stickers there, but you can see it's all one piece.
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Apr 24, 2014 20:18
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S, not SM but I run IMS 4gal, the tank is the shroud. I also skipped radiator guards despite lots of hard off road because I am cheap and the tank protects them well. It does make the bike uglier and bigger looking...
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Apr 24, 2014 21:01
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Going back some pages, but for those of you who've been thinking of doing to socal supermoto school at Adams speedway. Do it. Brian is a chill and good dude who is there just to help out and try to help you have as much fun as possible. Also if you have your own bike track fee is $45 for all day access. Husky supremacy    
Sirhc77 fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 00:52
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I'm currently in talks with two different guys in my area to buy their Sumo converted WR450fs. What types of things should I be looking for on a converted bike? Both are low mileage <5000kms. Seems like both are running stock suspension and gearing, would that be an issue for city driving? I'm slightly worried about passing my provinces safety certification (Ontario, Canada), not sure how the feel about converted bikes.
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Apr 25, 2014 02:27
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Boss posted:I'm currently in talks with two different guys in my area to buy their Sumo converted WR450fs. Talk to your insurance company. If its like Alberta (which is possible), then they'll be able to tell you by VIN or possibly model if the bike can ever be registered for the road. In AB, purpose built offroad bikes are never legal to register for the road but most Enduro style bikes are good as long as they've done the work to get the bike up to standard.
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Apr 25, 2014 04:28
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Replacing the tires on my DRZ sumo. Confirm for me please: Pilot Power 2CTs and 3s are out because the smallest rear is 160, which is borderline too wide. So I'm looking at a set of Pilot Powers, or Pilot Road 3s (120 front, 150 rear). Any advice? I'm not tracking the bike anytime soon, mostly just commuting and spirited surface street riding. Edit: the nearest shop quoted me $327.92 for the set of Powers, and $447.90 for the Road 3s, not including labour. Does this sound reasonable? epswing fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 22:09
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- edit double post
Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 23:23
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Sup who wants to go to one of those sumo weekend classes/schools in so-cal? Or the day course Don't have my 690 SM. Feel like it'd be best to do it with your own so I could learn how to back it in proper but then again could just thrash theirs.
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Apr 26, 2014 23:25
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epalm posted:Replacing the tires on my DRZ sumo. I run powers in a 160 rear on my drz and there are no rubbing issues. Can't speak for the roads in that size. The 160 powers are easier to find as more bikes use them than the 150's.
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Apr 27, 2014 00:40
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Wouldn't moving to a 160 just make the tire an even bigger bitch to remove/install? Also handling, etc. fakeedit: I probably just suck at removing the back tire.
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Apr 27, 2014 01:55
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I don't know, I have the shop put my tires on for fear of scratching dem unobtanium rims. E: do you mean just taking the wheels on and off the bike? If so, they're marginally more difficult, but getting the spacers to stay in the hub while you mess with the axle is still by far the hardest part. As for handling, it falls in faster, but I like that.
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Apr 27, 2014 02:05
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