|
Squashy Nipples posted:Turn it upside down, and take a torch to it. The steel should expand slightly faster then the broken bit, and if you are lucky it will just fall out. I don't have access to a torch. I'm thinking, since I don't necessarily need a through hole, that I may just go ahead and thread the hole I have, since it's about 3/4" deep. I can just get some 1/2" screws or something. I still have 3 similar holes left to drill, but I can definitely get a new drill bit.
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 19:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 09:16 |
|
|
Alfred P. Pseudonym posted:I don't have access to a torch. I'm thinking, since I don't necessarily need a through hole, that I may just go ahead and thread the hole I have, since it's about 3/4" deep. I can just get some 1/2" screws or something. I still have 3 similar holes left to drill, but I can definitely get a new drill bit. The only thing I can think of would be that you might get lucky with a left handed drill bit. You could try asking in the metalworking thread here in DIY.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 20:40
|
|
|
You have drills, taps, and (presumably) tapping fluid, but you don't own a $10 propane hand torch? For shame, go buy one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 20:45
|
|
|
Goetta posted:I am looking to get a 3 ton central air unit installed at my new house that would hook into the existing furnace and duct work. Is there a good website that goes through the various models with price estimates to pick out the most reliable/cost efficient ones? For whatever reason I haven't been able to find anything helpful at all so far via the usual places. No, because most of the manufacturers are dealer network only. Goodman has a bad name because they will sell to anyone. And why does that give them a bad name and make it look like their units are subpar? Because what matters the most out of anything about an HVAC install is the installer. Any monkey can throw one in and make it turn on and function. Make it work properly, efficiently and reliably is a different story. Worry less about what brand to buy and spend your time researching and "interviewing" potential contractors to do the job.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 22:04
|
|
|
Squashy Nipples posted:tapping fluid Could you explain more about tapping fluid? Google just shows me places to buy it and people arguing over the best kind, but I've never heard of the stuff. Is it a lubricant? Is it for the drilling or the tapping step? I also see people talking about using it for general metal cutting...how's that work?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 04:42
|
|
|
Stabby McDamage posted:Could you explain more about tapping fluid? Google just shows me places to buy it and people arguing over the best kind, but I've never heard of the stuff. Is it a lubricant? Is it for the drilling or the tapping step? I also see people talking about using it for general metal cutting...how's that work? You got the idea. Tapping fluid is a lubricant especially made for cutting threads and carrying away metal shavings.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 04:45
|
|
|
Is it typically used for the drilling or the actual tapping?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 04:51
|
|
|
Umm, it's tapping fluid. Take a wild guess.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 04:57
|
|
|
I want to build an ice cream maker because all the makers out there suck so much and break down too quickly. Any ideas for what I can use for a motor? Just needs to churn the paddles at a stable RPM in the 30-60 range and be something I can mount.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
Walked posted:I want to build an ice cream maker because all the makers out there suck so much and break down too quickly. Do you happen to own a Kitchenaid stand mixer? I've been really happy with the ice cream maker bowl and paddle. You need to freeze it (which makes it work quicker than ice+salt) so that may not work out for you (I have a chest freezer with enough space that I can just leave it in there so no planning ahead is necessary).
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 21:28
|
|
|
Walked posted:I want to build an ice cream maker because all the makers out there suck so much and break down too quickly. Repurpose an electric drill.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 02:37
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Repurpose 
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 02:38
|
|
|
For ice cream I recommend a three-stick model like this one:
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 02:44
|
|
|
I am planning a backyard wedding in a couple of months and one of the things I am worried about is the step-down from our deck. With a large enough group of guests, someone is bound to be old or careless enough to hurt themselves. As you can see the drop is 11" in the left side and slopes to 15" on the right side, including the whole length along the concrete pad. 11" is about as high as I would comfortably want people to have to step, and 15" is unacceptable. I need to make something that is sturdy enough that no one will get hurt, but I don't think I will have time to make any sort of permanent addition to the deck. I am thinking of just tamping the ground and putting down some concrete pavers as a base. Then building some sort of box step that will accommodate the slope of the yard and then temporarily tie it into the deck with screws to keep it steady. Ideally I would build a step along the length of each of the three sides. Is this a really bad idea? I am open to other suggestions, so please tell me what to do!
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 00:33
|
|
|
You could just put some kind of barrier around the edge of the deck at the 15" area, so people don't try to step down that far. My parents have some small planters on the edge of their deck for that reason.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 01:09
|
|
|
Put tables on either side...build 'em out of plywood and sawhorses & cover 'em with a tablecloth. One can be booze, the other snacks. Then you just have to build up a step on the side facing the camera.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 02:21
|
|
|
So I spent the morning caulking/otherwise sealing air gaps around register boxes underneath my house, and had a couple of fumbles along the way. I have silicone caulk all over my hands and got some Great Stuff foam spray on my arm. I have already tried acetone based nail polish remover to no avail. Anyone have a better idea? I am hoping to be able to clean this up before going to work on Monday so my coworkers don't think I have some sort of skin condition.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 03:49
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Put tables on either side...build 'em out of plywood and sawhorses & cover 'em with a tablecloth. One can be booze, the other snacks. Then you just have to build up a step on the side facing the camera. Seconding this suggestion. If it isn't physically impeded to the point where nobody in their right mind would reasonably try to walk that direction, somebody's probably going to trip over it no matter how hard you try to point it out to every single person, no matter how vigilant you & your guests are, no matter how well-lit it may be. Tables at either end, and some sort of plywood-covered ramp on the end facing the camera would pretty much eliminate any chance of tripping.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 03:58
|
|
|
therobit posted:So I spent the morning caulking/otherwise sealing air gaps around register boxes underneath my house, and had a couple of fumbles along the way. I have silicone caulk all over my hands and got some Great Stuff foam spray on my arm. I have already tried acetone based nail polish remover to no avail. Anyone have a better idea? I am hoping to be able to clean this up before going to work on Monday so my coworkers don't think I have some sort of skin condition. Acetone will remove both (nail polish remover). Well, it will remove UNCURED urethane foam. Good luck getting it off once it's cured.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 04:00
|
|
|
I've used rubbing alcohol to clean up uncured silicone caulk, that may also work for the foam, but if both of those fail go for the old standby of something oily. Cooking oil, peanut butter, mayonnaise, something like that might help, but you're going to have to work it under the foam/caulk bit by bit. I've also had good luck with mechanic's soap with the scrubbies and the orange oil in it. therobit posted:So I spent the morning caulking/otherwise sealing air gaps around register boxes underneath my house, and had a couple of fumbles along the way. I have silicone caulk all over my hands and got some Great Stuff foam spray on my arm. I have already tried acetone based nail polish remover to no avail. Anyone have a better idea? I am hoping to be able to clean this up before going to work on Monday so my coworkers don't think I have some sort of skin condition.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 04:01
|
|
|
Getting Great Stuff foam on your skin sucks so much. In my experience it needs a little scrubbin then some time to just wear off through out the next day.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 04:05
|
|
|
therobit posted:So I spent the morning caulking/otherwise sealing air gaps around register boxes underneath my house, and had a couple of fumbles along the way. I have silicone caulk all over my hands and got some Great Stuff foam spray on my arm. I have already tried acetone based nail polish remover to no avail. Anyone have a better idea? I am hoping to be able to clean this up before going to work on Monday so my coworkers don't think I have some sort of skin condition. If it's cured: belt sander. Or gloves/long-sleeves. God, I hate Great Stuff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 04:48
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:If it's cured: belt sander. Or gloves/long-sleeves. I've had really good luck running a sharp knife over my skin repeatedly! Works well for various glues as well. Now if I could find a way to get that primer poo poo we use for steel we are burying off my skin I would be happy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 05:51
|
|
|
Anybody got any suggestions on how I might best refurbish the retaining wall around my egress window? The backstory is that I recently pulled out 5 overgrown juniper bushes that surrounded this egress, and the timbers in the top several levels of the wall were almost completely rotted out, so I removed them too. I figured I could just go buy more, but the ones in the wall seem to be considerably bigger than readily available landscaping timbers (they are a full 4" tall and 6" wide), and I'm pretty sure the timbers at the box stores would also rot out fairly quickly unless I coated them with something. So I'm considering just getting the small, lovely timbers from home depot and painting them with something like an epoxy and building the wall back up...or maybe tearing the whole thing out and rebuilding it out of PT 4x6's rated for ground contact. The first option would be easier and cheaper, but not last very long. The second option would cost a few hundred more, and I would need to figure out some how to attach them to the house foundation...I am guessing a hammer drill to mount a 4x6 vertically against the hose, and then nailing/screwing the horizontal wall layers to that. If I could find some really large landscaping timbers with the rounded edges to match what I already have that would be ideal, but I haven't had any luck calling around to lumber yards and landscaping suppliers, but clearly they must exist somewhere. Anyway, some pictures. First is what I am facing currently, with the worst of the wall removed. What's left is in decent condition.  Looking "out", you can see where I took out a couple of extra levels on the sides vs. the front.  The lower level, which I didn't mess with (yet). Like I said, decent condition, but this stuff is 20 years old and isn't going to last forever.  Finally, there is what appears to be a little wedge on each side that is pretty thoroughly rotted out. This is what I would replace with a vertical 4x6. The house foundation has 2" or so of foam insulation around it. You can see where the original wall peices were against the foam, and the trowel-on coating was not applied to where they were. Each of the wall levels is nailed to this wedge, although there isn't much left of it for the nails to be holding on to. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 02:05
|
|
|
Thanks for everyone's suggestions with my deck problem. After talking it over we are going to have tables and buckets of drinks blocking most of the edges and I will make a couple of box steps for the official ingress points.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 02:25
|
|
|
Zyme posted:Anybody got any suggestions on how I might best refurbish the retaining wall around my egress window? How opposed would you be to pulling out all those timbers and replacing them with block walls?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 05:03
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:How opposed would you be to pulling out all those timbers and replacing them with block walls? I wouldn't be opposed to it at all, if it were at least somewhat economical. I have thought about it a little but haven't looked into it much, so I am not sure what it would take.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 23:23
|
|
|
I'm drafting up some prototypical designs for a little project of mine, and it'll be a lot easier to decide which to go with if a part I'm thinking of actually exists. What I'm thinking of is akin to a part on a trailer; specifically the little column that you turn the crank on and the trailer goes up or down on the column allowing you to swing it either up or down depending on whether you're trying to take the trailer on or off the hitch. If I can find a couple of those little columns, ideally 4' long at their shortest, with cranks that aren't too big/clunky/obtrusive I think I can rig up something really cool. I just have no idea what they're called.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 01:02
|
|
|
Trailer Jack
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 01:10
|
|
|
e: ^^^ drat you Google "trailer jack"
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 01:10
|
|
|
Cool, thanks! I'm wondering if I'm best off ordering some with the wheels and removing the wheels or trying to find some without wheels.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 01:27
|
|
|
One of the internal fans in my over-the-range microwave died. Or at least the sound of one did. Is there a way to tell if I need to replace the stirrer motor or the fan motor? The exhaust vent works fine, and the microwave cooked two bowls of food tonight (2-3 min each), the second of which I noticed the problem. I'm not sure about the evenness of the cooking (stirrer motor?), and I didn't want to keep the thing running for too long at that moment in time. I assumed it would have shut itself down if it overheated (fan motor?), but was unsure how long it would have taken to get to that point. edit: when it's active it blows out air from the grill on the top of the unit, which to me seems like the fan motor is working fine. I guess my next question would be does an active stirrer motor make a decent amount of noise? Voodoo fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Apr 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 01:33
|
|
|
Trebuchet King posted:Cool, thanks! I'm wondering if I'm best off ordering some with the wheels and removing the wheels or trying to find some without wheels. That depends on your intended application. If you need to wheelie around whatever you're putting together, get the wheels. If you want it stationary, they make them with a base plate on the bottom, which is pretty important on anything except pavement, as the plate distributes the weight and keeps the jack from sinking into the dirt. My point is, get one that fits your needs out of the box, instead of intentionally getting the wrong thing and modifying it to be something you could have gotten in the first place. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 01:37
|
|
|
True enough--wheels are something completely irrelevant to my intended application, it'll just be a matter of cost. Once I get back to my computer and can look at pictures at a decent resolution I'll check out my options less cursorily. vvv It won't be moving anything terribly heavy--my apologies for the vagueness, a lawyer relative/part-time handyman has suggested I might be able to patent/market this, and for now I figure why not at least try? Trebuchet King fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 02:00
|
|
|
Trebuchet King posted:Cool, thanks! I'm wondering if I'm best off ordering some with the wheels and removing the wheels or trying to find some without wheels. Wheels are cheap plastic things. Anything with a plate is going to be on a much heavier duty jack (read: much more expensive). So decide from there. They are all rated in what they can lift.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 02:00
|
|
|
therobit posted:So I spent the morning caulking/otherwise sealing air gaps around register boxes underneath my house, and had a couple of fumbles along the way. I have silicone caulk all over my hands and got some Great Stuff foam spray on my arm. I have already tried acetone based nail polish remover to no avail. Anyone have a better idea? I am hoping to be able to clean this up before going to work on Monday so my coworkers don't think I have some sort of skin condition. My suggestion is to abandon all hope and audition for The Thing in Marvel's next Fantastic 4 movie.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 13:09
|
|
|
My Maytag Washer (MVWC6ESWW1) has an annoying problem. If run on regular cycle it will end the spin cycle with 30 seconds of cold water, soaking what it just spun. I switched to casual mode from regular and it stopped the soaking, but now in all modes it starts the wash cycle by agitating immediately. It used to add water to the correct level, then work normally. I did some research that suggested it could be the water/temp sensor or the timer switch. Each part is rather expensive and I do not want to throw parts at it until I find the problem. Any ideas or troubleshooting I can try to isolate the problem?
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 13:32
|
|
|
Driveway question. We moved into 1994 house with original driveway near Boston in 2013. Overall I'd say the driveway condition is pretty good, not much visible rutting (aside from that described below), very shallow surface cracking, and one fairly substantial crack, likely over a root. There are like 3 depressed areas where we see maybe a half inch of standing water when it rains. I believe it had been sealcoated every 3 years or so, and when we moved in it was looking a little gray, and the owner said this would be the year to do it again. Had it done in September last year, they filled the big crack satisfactorily, and now that the snow's gone the 3 or so places where there's standing water the sealcoat is pretty much gone. Looking up the original quote, I see the 1-year workmanship warranty doesn't cover standing water. Looking up how to take care of shallow depressions, it looks like the recommendation is to clean, prime, and use cold patch mix, then reseal. Does this sound right, or is the cold-mix stuff as bad as I have heard? I suppose the worst case is the patch falls apart and I'm left with the same depression as before, but I am trying to figure out if it's worth the effort and if is mainly cosmetic or not having these areas sealed properly is going to lead to damage in those sections due to water penetration and/or freeze/thaw cycles. Do I need anything special in the way of tools or equipment to get the depressions filled properly/correctly graded and compacted? Am I going to get a much better result having an asphalt place do the actual repair? THE INTERNET says "oh just use a 4x4 to tamp" but that seems pretty suspect to me at first glance.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 16:29
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:My Maytag Washer (MVWC6ESWW1) has an annoying problem. If run on regular cycle it will end the spin cycle with 30 seconds of cold water, soaking what it just spun. I switched to casual mode from regular and it stopped the soaking, but now in all modes it starts the wash cycle by agitating immediately. It used to add water to the correct level, then work normally. Unplug the washer from power, open up the control panel, and disconnect the load sensing switch. It's part #5 in this diagram.  Plug the washer back in with the switch disconnected and run it. If nothing happens, the load sensing switch is bad.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 18:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 09:16 |
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Sears recommends checking the load sensing switch first http://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1158156 Thanks for the reply. Edit: That schematic does not match my machine. On mine the indicated dial is the fabric softener selector. The machine has auto sensing water level. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Apr 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 19:30
|
|