|
kastein posted:The oh-poo poo handle isn't torn off this jeep (yet.) I know how to fix that ..
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 14:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:47 |
|
|
we just did the whole trans mass trail and came back via 91 in 6 hours. Made really good time, given the fact that a culvert in one of the roads backed up and washed out and we had to unblock it, dam the washout (which was 4 feet deep and 6 feet wide, way too far to fill in manually) and then bridge downstream enough with rocks to cross. Glad I brought the pickaxe and INTERNETRACECAR brought the shovel or we would have had to bypass that whole road.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2014 22:02
|
|
|
You make it sound like its not a big deal to have to dam a creek... Also I can see how holy poo poo handles don't last if you are pulling .9 g or whatever in a goddamn Cherokee. I will also admit that this has got me looking at what is available locally. In finicky old Toyota electronics news, I swapped the computer back in. When it started acting up I noticed that it was also very warm to the touch. Keeping in mind that there is some clearance from the board to the case I am thinking that this is A. Not normal B. Probably something connected to my issues...
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
That's because it isn't hard, I was damming creeks for fun when I was ten, and I didn't have a shovel and pickaxe then  That does sound related. The toyota housings screw on, right? Pop it open and find out what's melting down.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 01:20
|
|
|
kastein posted:That's because it isn't hard, I was damming creeks for fun when I was ten, and I didn't have a shovel and pickaxe then Nothing that I can see (keep in mind I know SFA about this kind of stuff). http://m.imgur.com/pWSJT9w,cTndzuy,6IO1hgX,s7lcqBa
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 02:40
|
|
|
Huh, that doesn't look like the one I am used to, understandable I guess. Heat is probably coming from the power semiconductors off to the side, those are the solenoid drivers and voltage regulators. Went to the junkyard today, actually still there, taking a breather after pulling a cylinder head. Friend has an 01 XJ with the crap 0331 head casting, it has been having oil pressure issues, always a few droplets of water in the oil on the dipstick, milky oil cap, was overheated right before he got it... ticking time bomb. So he's been looking for a new head and just got a new shortblock from another friend for $100. Found an 04 WJ with a TUPY-produced* 0331 casting, which is known to not fail. So I spent 30min ripping the head off it, now time to go grab the transfer case I think I need for the street MJ project. It came from behind a dodge nv4500 ace and I pulled in february, and is still lying there in great shape even though they scrapped the truck it came from sometime in the last week. Easy mode, all I have to do is pick it up... * the funny part? TUPY produced the 6bt5.9 cummins 53 block casting known to dodge owners as "the one that cracks". Everyone fucks up once in a while I guess.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 19:01
|
|
|
kastein posted:Huh, that doesn't look like the one I am used to, understandable I guess. The large black one seems to be the one getting hot. Not sure if that is the cause or the effect though? On the head castings I assume that this is something that happens in service after a period of time, correct? I imagine that a dye pen. audit would happen during production (at least I would hope) and would catch a consistent issue like that. I'm more used to one off items where you could do everything up to all MT/PT/UT depending on the application.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2014 22:38
|
|
|
Honestly, I'd need a full schematic and some DMM and o-scope time with the board to tell you for sure, but unless those parts are getting burn-your-fingers hot, I wouldn't worry about them. As for the 0331 head saga - The issue is that they crack between the water passages and the top surface of the casting, i.e. under the valve cover. The casting design was flawed and there's a weak spot right between the #3 and #4 valve pairs. There are a lot of people who will defend them to the death, and say they will only crack if overheated or abused. To which I say... a 00/01 XJ is now 13 or 14 years old. They all have 100k+ miles on them and several owners. Do YOU know their service/abuse history? I don't think anyone does. Many of them cracked at 75k or even earlier, and were warranty replaced by Chrysler... with more of the same castings. So they fail again. Around 02-03 or so, they finally (quietly) released a fixed version, cast in Brazil by TUPY instead of by whoever was doing the original 0331 castings. The newer TUPY head design and casting I've never heard of any issues on. There was never a recall or TSB of any kind for the older flawed castings AFAIK. They even have the same part numbers, they really didn't want to admit that problem. The problem with the cracking issue is that the crack lets slightly pressurized coolant out of the cooling system directly into the oiling system, where it washes out the bearings and causes the engine to eventually toss a rod through the side of the block if you don't notice in time. People with older non-TUPY 0331 cylinder heads should definitely keep a very close eye on them, check the oil regularly, make sure there isn't any creamy water/oil emulsion residue on the underside of the oil cap or dipstick, keep an eye on coolant consumption, etc. Sending oil samples to blackstone to find out if coolant is escaping into the oil too slowly to notice isn't a bad idea either. If a crack or unexplained coolant loss is detected, park the thing until you have a new head to put on it* or you risk bearing damage from coolant contamination. * A few aftermarket companies are doing all-new castings to fix the issue, as well. You can spend $450 on one from them, or you can go to the junkyard and spend 30 minutes ripping a cylinder head out of a 2002 or later 4.0 WJ with a blown up transmission/transfer case/rearend, which aren't exactly uncommon finds around here. Just look through the oil cap for TUPY cast into the cylinder head before pulling it out. I've posted pictures of the failure somewhere in the mechanical failures thread, not sure what page. Here's the one I pulled today. According to my cellphone video, it took 27 minutes, but I know the size of every single fastener on the engine, so I was kinda cheating a bit. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 01:22
|
|
|
oh hey it finally finished uploading! Here is a 27 minute long intensely boring video of me tearing a WJ apart to get the head out. Motronic probably shouldn't watch this  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCBvOrHwQXo e: cliffs 1. rip off heater core hoses and move AC lines out of the way. Get sprayed with PAG oil and refrigerant because this yard apparently doesn't mind EPA fines and doesn't care about the fact that r134a is worth good money. 2. remove top row of intake bolts, except one that interferes with the wrench. Get tired of screwing around and gently "modify" the manifold with the 8lb hand sledge. 9/16" assorted wrenches, sockets, extensions, and ujoints needed 3. remove remaining manifold bolts. 9/16" again 4. remove valve cover. IIRC these are 3/8, some are 7/16, I just grabbed the socket I always do. 5. head bolts out. 1/2" 12 point deep well socket needed 6. attempt to lift head off engine. Mutter, curse, wonder why it won't come off. 7. realize it's still held on by the two upper accessory mount bolts. Remove them. 9/16" gearwrench again 8. attempt to lift head off engine. Mutter, curse, wonder why it won't come off. 9. realize that the water pump outlet tube I oh-so-gently bent away from the engine is trapping the idler pulley, which is bolted to the cylinder head on a WJ. Unbolt it. 9/16" socket wrench again. 10. lift head off, realize it won't come forward because some doofus forgot to take the pushrods out. Hold head up and finagle rods out, throw them under the donor vehicle, remove head from vehicle. 11. fin 
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Apr 21, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
kastein posted:Motronic probably shouldn't watch this I'm not gonna spend 27 minutes watching a video that appears to be mostly your rear end. Just tell me the time where you bust out the blue tipped wrench for the head bolts.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 02:07
|
|
|
Right about 7:20 I "disconnected" an AC line and got blasted with R134a and PAG oil for my efforts. And I don't really have an rear end, dammit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 02:12
|
|
|
kastein posted:Right about 7:20 I "disconnected" an AC line and got blasted with R134a and PAG oil for my efforts. Rapid unplanned disassembly. It happens. I'm sure you were positive there was nothing left in there. kastein posted:And I don't really have an rear end, dammit. You got enough for me, babycakaes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 03:40
|
|
|
You two are just adorable 
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2014 16:41
|
|
|
kastein posted:It's actually just like regular tire self-balancing beads, they just happen to be somewhat decorative. You dump them in the tire and they do their thing. There are charts available that tell you how much to use, I converted it from ounces to grams and rounded up to the next ten gram increment. It actually doesn't really matter as long as you have more than enough and not ridiculously more than needed. I had to look up how that worked. Never heard of bead balancing tires before. Interesting.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 05:51
|
|
|
I'm still not entirely sure how they always collect in the light spot (I guess the tire shaking sorta moves them that direction?) but I can't argue with the results. INTERNETRACECAR put together some of his gopro footage from last weekend, he's a better video editor than I am: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JTMB6veCec I have gone through my footage and figured out which sections I'm going to use but haven't done the editing yet. Probably tonight after work. e: here is a dam picture for you in the meantime  (we were driving along and saw a "road closed" sign. Laughed. Continued driving. Then found out why it was closed - a culvert had backed up with tree debris and the road washed out about 50 feet from it. Cut a trench maybe 5 or 6 feet wide and 4 feet deep right across the road. Fortunately I had a pickaxe and INTERNETRACECAR had a spade, so I cleared out the blocked culvert, then dammed the washout with stones, gravel, and sand, then we waited for the water to recede a bit and stacked rows of the largest rocks we could find across the channel next to the roadbed until he could drive across. I just drove through it since I have more ground clearance and more aggressive tires, didn't want to rip up the rock crossing and have to put it back together again. No strap needed, we both made it across just fine, video at the end of the one I just posted.) I'm thinking some bridging ladders may be in order for next time just in case. We really need to do this run at like 2AM some weekend so we can actually haul rear end instead of keeping speeds somewhat respectable. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Apr 24, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 17:27
|
|
|
Is the 4.0 not a cross-flow design? It sure looks to me like the intake and exhaust ports are right next to each other in that picture. What would be the benefit to that? Or is it more a case of Chrysler not giving enough fucks to update the head on an engine from the 60s?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 03:11
|
|
|
It's basically a 60s design, yes. The original engine was... I think a 232? inline 6. Carburetor, log manifold, etc etc. They did a few changes and variants over the years and ended up with a 258ci inline 6 truck engine eventually, which went into the J trucks, CJs, DJs, etc. The other engine was the 151ci GM "iron duke". In 1984 they introduced the XJ cherokee to compete with the FSJ grand cherokee (1983 and earlier FSJ grand cherokees were just called cherokees) and grand wagoneer. A few years later, the Comanche (1986) and XJ wagoneer (unsure of year) were introduced. They needed some engines, but didn't want to buy iron dukes from GM anymore, so they built the 2.5L/150ci AMC inline 4, but put a GM 60 degree V6 bellhousing pattern on it to match the loving awful 2.8L GM 60 degree V6 they were using as the premium engine. Rumor has it that the engineer in charge of the engine compartment hated the inline 6 and designed the firewall/engine compartment specifically so a 258 would NOT fit. No one knows if this is actually true. Long story short, the 2.8 blew rear end almost as much as it blew rod bearings. So in 1987 they warmed-over the 258 as a 242ci (4.0L) inline 6 with an 8 counterweight crank instead of the 12 and 4 counterweight cranks previously used, a shorter stroke, larger bore, but (iirc) the same head casting. It also got MPFI, the RENIX system (RENault-bendIX.) Wranglers and FSJs stayed with the 4.2 and a gently caress-awful e-carb setup into the early 90s while the XJ/MJ got the 4.0. The 4.0 got Chrysler fuel injection and a new cylinder head in 1991, plus a few horses. The next major update was to the 0331 head casting in 1999/2000 depending on which chassis you're talking about; the head design is superior and improves a few things but is vulnerable to cracking. 2002 and later heads cast by TUPY instead of whoever did the others fix the issue... mostly. Anyways. The same manifold gasket fits from at least 1991 through 1998/9, and I believe it fits from 1987 through 1998/9. If it doesn't, it's very very similar. The design is basically the same, in fact 4.0 blocks as late as the mid 90s still had the mounting bosses along the front lower sides of the block milled/drilled/tapped... just in case you were planning on putting it into an AMC Eagle at the factory that day, because the Eagle front differential assembly bolts to the engine. It's essentially a 1960s engine with some improvements over the years. I am currently getting 19.5mpg out of mine on slightly oversize mud tires driving it like a jackass, if the drat headwinds I've been getting will go away and I drive it a little more gently I should hit 22mpg with absolutely no problems. Also, here is a video. It's 30+ minutes of us driving around on dirt roads like assholes and I don't believe my rear end is visible for even a second. Sorry, guys. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKpJXB86bF4 (it's not quite done processing yet, give it time) And another, this is what mudterrains sound like when they're sliding sideways a little at ~52-54mph: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qi1zUsslfUQ
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 05:01
|
|
|
kastein posted:Also, here is a video. It's 30+ minutes of us driving around on dirt roads like assholes and I don't believe my rear end is visible for even a second. Sorry, guys. A reasonable response to both of those
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 11:10
|
|
|
Those little plastic whirliegig things melt if you do that, ask me how I know. About 20 seconds at 65mph is all you can get out of them before the plastic spindle melts and the propeller part flies off 
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 15:09
|
|
|
1. Get junkyard turbo 2. Make metal pinwheel 3. Profit
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2014 18:43
|
|
|
You know that fantasy everybody has, where you hit that virgin junkyard, with stock that has sat untouched for thirty years.. Kastein and I hit that junkyard today. We lived the dream. This *was* a "we-pull-it" that is now under new management and functioning as a "you-pull-it."   Maybe, but this third gen vette isn't driving anywhere.   Apparently this is where lovely VW kit cars go to die.   Sucks for his girl.  Mass residents will recognize these trailers:   Hello random mustang.. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 22:58
|
|
|
I really need to call that place up Monday and find out how much the concrete company they share land with wants for the motor out of their old F800... It's a 6BT5.9 Cummins in front of an Eaton Fuller FS-5205A 5 speed manual transmission. Should be SAE #2 bellhousing pattern, the same as my big truck has... the transmission is basically no use to me since it's a direct 5th ratio set, but that engine would be great in front of an Eaton Fuller RTX14709H or 14609B, or even in front of the stock Spicer 6453. I'd heard rumors of this place having some cool poo poo hidden away from a friend of mine who lives in the area but for one reason or another we hadn't made it out there during their business hours yet. The funny part? It's the lovely ignorant we-pull yard that we wasted 2 hours driving to back in spring 2012 to try and get a 3.55 geared YJ front axle for Sandbagger's YJ. Except now they're under new management and are a self-serve yard that doesn't lie through their teeth about what they have and how well they've verified it. "VIN Verified Diff Ratio" and "We checked the tag on the cover", my loving rear end  (we drove an hour each way only to find out that the axle they swore up and down had 3.55 gears in it had... 3.07s like every other 6cyl YJ on the planet. They told us to kick rocks because it wasn't their fault they had their heads up their asses.)
kastein fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Apr 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 23:21
|
|
|
ACEofsnett posted:You know that fantasy everybody has, where you hit that virgin junkyard, with stock that has sat untouched for thirty years.. Kastein and I hit that junkyard today. We lived the dream. This *was* a "we-pull-it" that is now under new management and functioning as a "you-pull-it." I need the tail lights out of that 942 if they're in good shape. Particularly the driver's side one. Would either of you mind grabbing them if you're in there again any time soon?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 03:24
|
|
|
Is it true that Building 19 no longer exists? I only knew of it through goon threads but now I feel strangely empty at news of its passing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 03:34
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I need the tail lights out of that 942 if they're in good shape. Particularly the driver's side one. We may be going back to pull a few things some day this week, not sure. I need to talk money with a concrete company that isn't looking to sell something that I want. And there's a kingpin dana 60 there that I might pull just to see if I can flip it. They quoted me $200, I can sit on it forever at that price, or sell it for at least 500, probably more like 750 to 800, within a few weeks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 03:45
|
|
|
kastein posted:We may be going back to pull a few things some day this week, not sure. I need to talk money with a concrete company that isn't looking to sell something that I want. Well if you have the time I'd appreciate the help. If they are in average condition but usable (not cracked, hazed, or falling out) they are worth like $40 for the pair. If they are as nice as they should be for a car that looks that good in the picture (I'm sure that's not the case considering it sitting in a yard) they could be worth closer to $100. But I seriously doubt they would be of that caliber. Also FYI they are help in with the obvious 6 or so nuts that you access through the interior and are (should be) pretty well stuck in with black strip caulk. So if it's not a warm summer day (it won't be) you may need to apply some pressure for a bit until they start to rip loose. Thanks for looking if you get the chance.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 03:51
|
|
|
Caddy  Still want another one of those except for the whole gutless fwd thing. That is a pretty fun looking yard.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 11:59
|
|
|
Agreed. I have a strange obsession with all the old mini trucks (LUV, caddy, elco, ranchero, comanche...) that didn't really take off and I'd own one in a second if I could find a good one for real cheap. Even though they're gutless and FWD, two things I can't stand. Motronic, I'll see if I can pull em whenever I go for that axle... and maybe the 6BT, depending on what they want for it. Aaaaaand now I'm off to help with oil filter adapter O-rings and a rear main seal on the new 4.0 my buddy with the 0331 issues is building up in Uxbridge. It turns out we lucked out on that junkyard head I got for it, he brought it to his brother in law (who is an actual mechanic and also skilled) to do valve seals and a valve lap job on it... and the guy took one look at it and said don't bother, this thing's been in the shop very recently, it's all set. Between that and the fact that the head surface and block surface were very very clean, and no oil scale/sludge/varnish under the valve cover, and the valve cover grommet sleeves and bolts were basically spotless on the inside/threads even though the thing had 175k+ on it and looked like a disaster on the outside... I'm pretty sure this was a factory replacement TUPY head within the last 50k miles. So $45 for a low mileage recent TUPY 0331 casting instead of $450+ they're sold for online! kastein fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Apr 27, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 15:57
|
|
|
I've seen guys swap the Audi TT Quattro drivetrain into a Mk1 Rabbit before, how hard could it possibly be to make a turbo Caddy with the bone-crushing 200 ft-lb of torque that VW apologists love?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 15:59
|
|
|
gently caress Son of a BITCH. Turns out some of the odd TOB related noise I've been hearing in the DD XJ is... a cracked bellhousing.  Caught it before it broke all the way, fortunately. God drat it. So I guess I am calling out of work one day this week to hit the junkyard for a bellhousing. or maybe just doing that today since we are almost done with this 4.0 I got called on. Dropping a transmission in an evening, just what I loving wanted to do. Why do AX15 bellhousings like breaking in my jeeps? This is the second time in two years, in two jeeps, and I cleaned all mating surfaces and followed the torque specs.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 18:18
|
|
|
Well it has now been 3 hours since I discovered the issue, and I just finished pulling the transmission from the donor at the junkyard. 45 minutes flat, a new record  and I only broke 4 bolts that didn't matter.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 21:31
|
|
|
kastein posted:Turns out some of the odd TOB related noise I've been hearing in the DD XJ is... a cracked bellhousing. Well now, that's certainly something I never thought to worry about. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:Well now, that's certainly something I never thought to worry about. Thanks! I thought it was a once in a lifetime thing until it loving happened again! Different jeep, engine, transmission, everything, except they are the same part numbers etc. One I followed the specs on, one I didn't. Two other jeeps I've built with the same transmissions and engines with and without following the specs are fine. I dunno what the gently caress but I am tired of them breaking. I have a bu ch of pictures from the junkyard to post but imgur's mobile app is a festering dung heap from hell so too bad! I will post them later I guess.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 03:21
|
|
|
15:12 local 15:57 local  Something is... missing.  Ahhh there we go. So today in brief: replaced rear main seal on a friend's 4.0 replaced front main seal on same 4.0 Helped swap the head on Discovered broken bellhousing on DD toilet XJ got new bellhousing and spare transmission for 158 bucks fixed aunt's rav4 again, it was making a horrible noise and running very badly after a dipshit shop did a valve cover gasket on it. Turned out that they ruined a sparkplug wire (why they didn't sell her plugs/wires when doing a 97 rav4 vc gasket job I have no idea) so I slapped new plugs and wires on it. Horrible noise is not internal to the engine, seems to be heatshield/exhaust related so I said drive it for a while longer and see if the problem becomes apparent. It won't kill the car either way. Tomorrow I gotta toss the new bellhousing in and pack the TOB full of grease again. Since the engine is back to its old tricks (the redneck bearing job didn't stick, even before I ran it low on oil again last weekend because it seems to be burning oil now) I am kicking the stroker plans into high gear and hoping this shitheap 4.0 lasts till I have it ready to drop in. Need to think of a good way to strengthen the ax15 to 4.0 mating system, too. I have some ideas I will have to think through tomorrow while swapping parts. And to think I planned to sit on my rear end and maybe work on the house a bit today poo poo never goes according to plan, ever.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 04:29
|
|
|
ACEofsnett posted:You know that fantasy everybody has, where you hit that virgin junkyard, with stock that has sat untouched for thirty years.. Kastein and I hit that junkyard today. We lived the dream. This *was* a "we-pull-it" that is now under new management and functioning as a "you-pull-it." I wanna take that CJ's grille/fenders/hood for when the ones on my YJ rust out.  oh wait no fenders.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 23:39
|
|
|
Speaking of fenders... You are the most likely person to find something weird, especially in that new wonderland yard you just found, so I have a question: if you find any Toyota Celica (specifically GT-S liftbacks) made from 86-89 during a 'yard crawl, would it be too much to ask for you to grab me some fenders (and maybe some other bits)? I'll reimburse you for your trouble/cost, obviously. There are none in any of the yards near me and they are unfortunately trim-level-specific parts.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 23:53
|
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:Speaking of fenders... I've never found a fender in a JY of the "thin and chewy" sheet metal thickness that wasn't completely rusted to poo poo. The thick and crispy fenders (like on my 67 caddy) also needed repair but you can actually do bodywork on metal that thick.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 00:13
|
|
|
Yeah, anything that old rotted the gently caress out a decade ago, unfortunately. Even the stuff in those pictures is pretty horribly rotted, there was a Z car for instance that I could have stuffed a 35 gallon trash can through the passenger floorboard/subframe on... sideways. BTW, this bellhousing swap can get hosed. I am not amused.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 00:16
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah, anything that old rotted the gently caress out a decade ago, unfortunately. Even the stuff in those pictures is pretty horribly rotted, there was a Z car for instance that I could have stuffed a 35 gallon trash can through the passenger floorboard/subframe on... sideways.  GoddamnI forgot that cars in your area spend their whole lives in an acid bath. Still, if you find any from those years I could use some other parts that are plastic and unlikely to rot due to salt. The Sun, however, can gently caress off, I've already replaced the dash.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 00:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:47 |
|
|
loving gently caress I hate this loving jeep Tranny and tcase are out. Turns out the loving rear output yoke nut on the transfer case (the one that has already come loose twice) has come loose again. I am going to torque that piece of poo poo down with everything I have while it's out of the jeep. The drat thing feels a bit loose so it may have already damaged the splines on the mainshaft or the yoke too much. If so, my friends who work for the manufacturer will be hearing about it that's for sure... that stupid rear end rubber star washer was the root of all this, if I had just shot it full of RTV like I normally do it would have been fine the first time around. Also. Here is broken AX15 bellhousing #2  That's the lower right main bellhousing bolt hole right at the webbing near the bulge for the starter. The crack goes up and over, past both upper bolts to right about where my middle finger is.  From the other end of the crack.  And here I've highlighted the only two bolts that were still holding the engine and transmission together (sorta, the upper one was about to become pretty irrelevant) as well as the end of the crack, which is only visible from inside the bell at that end due to grime coating. It was an inch or so of cheesy cast aluminum from becoming a two piece bellhousing like the last one. At which point it flops around every time you look at it funny or the clutch is engaged and you are drat lucky if you keep your feet. gently caress this thing, I'm going to grab some dinner and a beer at the bar down the street and coming back to slap this stupid loving thing back together.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 02:13
|
|