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SaNChEzZ posted:The switchgear has a little peg on the inside that sits in that hole. The starter/kill switch box thingy. Its to keep the switchgear from spinning around the bar if the screws holding it together get loose. ahha, i must have sheared it off while trying to remove the cluster, fortunately i founded it on the ground and glued it back on, so after it sets I'll reinstall the cluster thanks 
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Mar 23, 2014 23:06
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If it doesn't hold the common fix is to wrap the section of bar underneath with some electrical tape. It makes it less prone to slipping because it is less slick than a chrome bar and you can tighten it a little more as it digs in to the tape and is now a little fatter around.
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Mar 23, 2014 23:58
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kenny powerzzz posted:If it doesn't hold the common fix is to wrap the section of bar underneath with some electrical tape. It makes it less prone to slipping because it is less slick than a chrome bar and you can tighten it a little more as it digs in to the tape and is now a little fatter around. yeah I was thinking about that as a backup option, if the glue job breaks I'll try that. Also, I just changed out my front brake pads and the calipers are tragically dirty... Like, I don't know if they've ever been cleaned in the bike's entire 30k miles. I think one of the pistons is stuck (or atleast not moving as freely as the other). I put the new pads in and tested it out, it stops, better than it did before, though it kind of sounds like something is dragging when I hadn't heard that noise before (maybe whatever mechanism retracts the pads isn't working now that the pads are new and there is more tread on them?) Anyway... I'm probably going to have to disconnect them from the hydralic lines and fully disassemble and clean them. I haven't done that before so I'm looking for advice.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:10
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Selling a full set of 06 OEM red fairings, see the for sale thread!
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Mar 30, 2014 02:45
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Looking to pick up an sv650 for a first bike. This looks like the best example I've seen come up around here that wasn't $3k+: http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/4399472745.html Alternately, there's this...uh...thing: http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/4362820719.html Provided the first one is clean, is 2500 a fair price? My only concern with a naked bike is I'm planning on taking it touring a fair amount and I've been told that fairings make a considerable difference in wind/rider fatigue.
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Mar 31, 2014 23:01
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dreggory posted:Looking to pick up an sv650 for a first bike. This looks like the best example I've seen come up around here that wasn't $3k+: The first bike is missing its entire tail fairing. Don't buy that if you're planning on a problem free bike - probably something else lurking on the horizon there. E: Maybe one of these? Try using searchtempest and searching the area around Austin. You picked a terrible time to buy - it's finally getting warm around here so prices are going to skyrocket now. http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/4367817465.html http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/4388905133.html Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Mar 31, 2014 |
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Mar 31, 2014 23:06
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Well I'm done asking questions in the general chat thread, these are more specific, what do I need to replace wheel bearings on a 2005 sv650s (what size bearings/anything else?)
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Apr 1, 2014 15:02
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You can drive them out without a bearing puller/slide hammer but it's a pain in the rear end. Besides that, the wheel bearings should come with the appropriate dust shields.
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Apr 1, 2014 15:54
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I posted my sv in the sell your crap thread but here's a link to the cl ad. http://cleveland.craigslist.org/mcy/4401903458.html  3000$ includes the bike with the sergeant seat, givi tail rack and givi top case.
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Apr 2, 2014 02:06
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So I'm beginning to realize just how bad the stock suspension is, but I don't think I'm ready to swap out the front for a gsxr's yet. I've been looking at these springs http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=31_66 Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket springs? What weight springs should I go with if I weigh around 150lbs? I use the bike for fun on the weekends and commute during the week.
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Apr 5, 2014 20:23
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tbb9 posted:So I'm beginning to realize just how bad the stock suspension is, but I don't think I'm ready to swap out the front for a gsxr's yet. Call them and talk to them - they'll give you more info and ask the appropriate relevant questions.
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Apr 5, 2014 22:40
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tbb9 posted:So I'm beginning to realize just how bad the stock suspension is, but I don't think I'm ready to swap out the front for a gsxr's yet. Sonic Springs and RaceTech springs/gold valve emulators are both highly recommended for the SV. I vote AK20s and Penske rear though.
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Apr 6, 2014 02:06
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Edit: Never mind
Mark David Chapman fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Apr 7, 2014 |
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Apr 7, 2014 07:06
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So having had the bike for a decent amount of time now I'm noticing a remarkable amount of lower back through upper thigh pain. Mind you I regularly go on 60-120 mile rides (60 4 times a week, 120 once a week) at minimum and I'm starting to wonder about the long term viability of the biek. Is there any adjustment I can make to the seat or riding position to fix this? I'm kinda considering moving back to cruisers if the bike is gonna murderize my lower back.
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Apr 11, 2014 17:43
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Figure out what would make the bike more comfortable (lower pegs? Wider bars? More draw on the bars?) and work from there.
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Apr 12, 2014 00:30
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ArbitraryTA posted:Is there any adjustment I can make to the seat or riding position to fix this? I'm kinda considering moving back to cruisers if the bike is gonna murderize my lower back. Did it make a difference? Right after getting all that done, my wife and I (she has her own bike) rode 3600 miles over the course of 12 days, for an average of 300 miles a day. That's average: one day we made it 40 miles due to a mechanical breakdown, and one day we rode 500+ to make it to a hotel reservation. The slightly more upright seating position and the ability to extend my legs a little bit more helped my comfort level a lot, and although the seat modification wasn't really something I could feel, I climbed off my bike every evening without a bit of soreness in the glutes. One other thing that might be helping me though: every time I fill up, I take ten minutes to walk around, stretch, and have some water. My personal belief is that it helps a lot on long rides.
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Apr 12, 2014 01:30
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Want to sell my 2007 SV650, what's a fair price to ask? It's a naked with about 11,xxx miles on it. Only issue is a small dent on the right side of the tank. Previous owner dropped it on the door while walking it into his shed (always the previous owner... right). Here's some pictures.   
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Apr 18, 2014 16:54
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Took my 07 out for the first ride of the spring today. Started it up in the driveway, walked inside to get my gear, and heard it tip over. Thank god for motosliders. Pretty much the only damage is a broken front signal and a slightly bent clutch lever. It was in neutral facing slightly downhill, either the wind caught it the wrong way or the clutch was dragging/stuck just enough to tug it forward. Anyone have an extra front left signal?
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Apr 21, 2014 04:56
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So while getting a new front tire mounted at the shop, I asked the guy to listen to my fuel pump. I've heard they can be "loud" but how loud is "loud" and how loud is "its about to die". Anyway, I fired it up and he immediately said "sounds like the bearings are going out". I asked if he could do one of those tests to see how much fuel it is actually pumping, and he said no such test exists (uhhh, I mean I'm not an expert but I'm pretty sure I've seen people recommend something like that here). Anyway, I asked him to price the new part, since if it was cheap I'd just replace it just to be safe. The price? Guess. Don't look at the next line until you have a guess. 800 dollars 800 dollars for an OEM fuel pump. Thats the price he quoted me. That doesn't include the "2 hour install time" which would bring the price of that repair to 1000 dollars. So anyway, I laughed in his face, paid for my tire (that was actually reasonably priced, new Road Pilot 3 to match the rear wooo! Yes I know they have the 4 now but I wanted to match) So now I might need a new fuel pump. The constant whine (of what I only assume is the fuel pump, I guess it could be a super loud capacitor whining somewhere? It doesn't change pitch when I rev the engine but interestingly enough it does change pitch when I turn on the blinkers, so that the whine goes up when the blinker light is on, and falls when it is off). If that sounds like a fuel pump noise to you guys, could someone point to one that looks good on ebay? There are some random chinese pumps for like 30 bux, and some pumps pulled from older svs that are 100 dollars assembly and all (and hopefully they work...). I don't really know what to look for in a quality pump. I found a video online of how to install them, looks simple enough, but I need to source one first. edit: this is a 2007 sv650 btw
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Apr 22, 2014 17:02
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I'd ebay one out of a low mileage bike. I'd also verify that that is actually what it is.
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Apr 22, 2014 18:21
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I've found buying new parts for my 03 can be pretty absurd on price. Even the one below seems high, but it's from a low mileage bike and looks good (and is the amount I would have guessed a new OEM one would be). Agree with Z3n to check to make sure that's it before dropping the coin on the part. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-Suzuki...d360b24&vxp=mtr
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Apr 22, 2014 19:20
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I dunno why you wouldn't go with this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-PUMP-S...b84b676&vxp=mtr Fuel pump failures are pretty rare.
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Apr 22, 2014 19:23
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I have also poked around online and seen people mention that the fuel pump can whine when the filters are clogged. The bike has 30k miles, so it isn't inconceivable that the filter needs to be replaced. edit: they also mention that the whine was present before they actually started noticing a loss in power. I haven't seen anything like that, but obviously I'd like to take care of that before it happens. edit2: eh I might just order the pump z3n linked. There is a guide to cleaning the high pressure fuel filter but it looks like a pain in the rear end and another guy reported that he tried cleaning his but the noise came back. I can't find any replacement filters on ebay, and the new part is absurdly expensive, so maybe it just isn't worth trying to clean the thing. If I just bought the entire assembly it would be a pretty easy job, unbolt the old one, pull it out, bolt in the new one. ADINSX fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 20:33
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If one were looking for an sv650 as his first bike, what are some considerations as to price, year, and mileage?
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Apr 25, 2014 11:57
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Wasting posted:If one were looking for an sv650 as his first bike, what are some considerations as to price, year, and mileage? Cheap, any, and low. Real talk, any SV650 is about the same as another if you find one with low mileage.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:49
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Wasting posted:If one were looking for an sv650 as his first bike, what are some considerations as to price, year, and mileage?
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Apr 25, 2014 18:11
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Fifty Three posted:2003 introduced FI and revised the fairing style a bit, if that matters to you. I would definitely at least look for > 2003 simply for the FI
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Apr 25, 2014 18:14
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Fifty Three posted:2003 introduced FI and revised the fairing style a bit, if that matters to you. ...But they revised the bike significantly the very next year, and left it pretty much unchanged for the rest of the run. Therefore the 2003 model has a few parts that are unique to just that single year of SV For that reason I'd get anything EXCEPT a 2003. Oh, and the frame switched from silver to black in 2005, if that's a big deal to you.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:24
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All very good information, thank you. I realize there's enough variables that this is kind of a stupid question, but what would a decent price range be?
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Apr 25, 2014 20:44
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Should I buy this? http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4440443549.html
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Apr 26, 2014 03:45
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That's a funny looking SV650, but yes, it looks in good shape and cheap. If it checks out, definitely consider it. Like the rad paintwork. But also consider an SV, because let me tell you they are awesome. Wasting- After spending all day (and part of the night) on my 2003 SV, want to reaffirm your SV choice. It's an amazing first bike with lots of great options and performance. Just seriously don't disrespect it because it has enough performance for things to get real real fast. That said, it's tame enough to keep you out of most trouble if you keep your head. If you get on one and it doesn't light up your life, know that a $250 Yoshimura slipon will make it more bike than you could have hoped for. Where are you located and what is your price range?
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Apr 26, 2014 07:23
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Coydog posted:If you get on one and it doesn't light up your life, know that a $250 Yoshimura slipon will make it more bike than you could have hoped for. I'll second the recommendation of getting a slip-on to improve the sound of the bike. I'll also suggest looking at Delkevic. They're a British pipe maker with great prices. I picked up a carbon-fiber pipe (the long one, not the 12" track pipe) for my '04 a few years ago for a little over $200. The other nice thing is that the pipe is relatively quiet at low RPM, so you don't piss off your neighbors. But once you open up the throttle, it sounds GREAT.
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Apr 26, 2014 10:03
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Coydog posted:Where are you located and what is your price range? Denver. $2k is what I can easily drop without putting myself in debt. Anything over 3k is probably a tad more than I should be spending, but doable.
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Apr 26, 2014 10:52
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Second gen SV are going to be closer to the 2500- price range with first gen being found 1400-3000. I personally wouldn't pay much above 2k for a first gen, and really not even then though I think they look nice. FI was a major selling feature for me but, now that I have it, the digital display is something I value almost as much. It doesn't even feel dated. Get the second gen if you can. With that said, I envy your SV market right now. These two look awesome, and the rest seemed like an overpriced mixed bag. https://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4429821977.html -If the bike looks 80% as good as it does in those pictures, and rides ok, that's a solid price. Try to talk him down to 2500, but I bet he won't budge. https://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4371353251.html - Tastefully modded and clean. I like that exhaust placement and think I'll look into it down the road for my bike, if I ever fall out of love with the yoshi (not likely). The price is a little high given the mileage, compared to the other listing, so 2700 should be your goal. Both of those look so good, and you get to choose if you like the faired or naked. I strongly recommend a naked SV. It bears up under your inevitable drop or layover with barely a mark if you have decent frame sliders. Plus it looks cooler. I'm sure I'm not the least clumsy rider, but I can't count how many times I've been thankful I didn't have a fairing to crack or scrape.
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Apr 26, 2014 19:57
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I would recommend an r6 1/4th turn throttle tube for $11.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:29
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xaarman posted:I would recommend an r6 1/4th turn throttle tube for $11. When I had my SV650 this was the best mod I did to it. It made the bike much more lively and fun.
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Apr 27, 2014 20:56
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I like knowing that a mod like that is waiting for me down the road. Right now the SV still seems more than lively enough. Does it really reduce the whole throttle range to 1/4 turn around the grip? Isn't that like an on/off wide open throttle power switch?
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Apr 27, 2014 21:43
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The r6 tube is a must-do, WOT is basically unusable without it, no more taking your hand off to adjust throttle position. You don't lose any fine tune control.
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Apr 27, 2014 23:18
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Anyone have any experience with aftermarket rearsets on a 2005 sv650s and want to recommend one? I'm looking at Danmoto, Vortex, or Woodcraft but I'm not really sure what the differences are other than price. I want to move them up higher though I don't care much about forward/back, I'm pretty short so not too concerned about feeling cramped on the bike, at the moment I have to extend my toes to get my toes on the pegs with my knees gripping the tank. I've read that the woodcrafts may be less adjustable than the other two, and the listings I've seen for them don't mention any adjustability at all which I'm not really a fan of, but it'd be great if anyone has any firsthand experience.
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Apr 28, 2014 00:26
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Is there any reason why you don't want to get a riser plate, instead of entirely new rearsets? Riser plates are cheap (around 30 a pair) and varied enough to find the right one for you. Some have many points of adjustment, others just one. I'm pretty tall, so I use a 1" back 2" up plate that is flipped so my pegs are lowered. They work great and are unobtrusive. For the rearsets, I have a pair of woodcrafts that I like a lot. They are expensive, and when you crash, replacement parts are available but can sting. That said, the customer service of woodcraft astounds me every time, and was enough to convince me to use woodcraft for other components I needed, despite the cost. They do not adjust, though, but that's what riser plates are for.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:00
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