|
Somewhat Heroic posted:Frozen paint is so freaking rad. When I first heard about it I read up on what it takes for care and maintenance and I just don't know if I could cope with being constantly aware of keeping it from getting messed up. I thought it was a wrap, since the reflection match was so poor in the fuel filler door here:  I'd be pissed with that kind of premium price on that kind of premium car.
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 16:18
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 06:32 |
|
|
It was paint not a wrap. They probably spray the quarter panel without the fuel door on. As I was taking the pic, a lot boy came out to a M6 and put a sold sign i the window. $137k. Oh Vegas...
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 18:49
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:With the V12 you are just asking for problems, just double everything cost wise. Plus half the poo poo is v12 specific and not compatible with anything. If I was to do a 7 series, it would be a V8 powered model. At least some of the poo poo crosses into other models. Not that I'd ever take my experience to reflect on all 7-series, but I owned a '97 740iL for a couple of years and it was actually pretty reliable despite getting a lot of use. Aside from being my normal daily driver, I took it on a bunch of road trips between CT and KY, NC, and FL. I think I might be blessed or something, though, because I replaced that car with a '98 540i 6-speed that never once failed me in a little over six years of ownership. I've already put more non-routine maintenance money into my E46 in three years than I did in the entire time I owned my E39 or E38.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 23:12
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:Everything. Is it honestly going to cost 6-9000 minimum per year just to keep this on the road? What kind of stuff breaks that would require that kind of maintenance cost? This sucks because I think it (would have) been cool to roll around in a depreciated 7 series, unless maybe you're inflating the numbers a bit?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 23:45
|
|
|
It is a used car. They are all crap shoots. Just be prepared for major items and you'll be fine. If it makes you happy to drive one, then drive one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 00:05
|
|
|
originalnickname posted:Is it honestly going to cost 6-9000 minimum per year just to keep this on the road? What kind of stuff breaks that would require that kind of maintenance cost? This sucks because I think it (would have) been cool to roll around in a depreciated 7 series, unless maybe you're inflating the numbers a bit? The problem with the 750 vs the 740 is that a ton of the engine and engine management bits are V12-specific, which makes the parts alone cost 2-3x what the V8 parts cost. The 740 shares its V8 motor with the 5, 6, and X series which makes many of the parts easier to come by and cheaper. Also from what I've read the V12 is finickier than the V8 especially with its various sensors and electrical bits. The V12 is certainly appealing because its a drat V12, but if I needed a big 4-door car and didn't give a gently caress about gas mileage, I'd love to drive a clean E38 740i M Sport even if it'd cost a good chunk of change to keep it in tip-top shape. Such a classic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 00:16
|
|
|
Tip top shape. Thats the determining factor in maintenance costs. How perfect do you need your car? Small vibration while at speed...tip top = repair now, replace all involved. Daily driver = don't fix it until it becomes unbearable.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 00:33
|
|
|
originalnickname posted:Is it honestly going to cost 6-9000 minimum per year just to keep this on the road? What kind of stuff breaks that would require that kind of maintenance cost? This sucks because I think it (would have) been cool to roll around in a depreciated 7 series, unless maybe you're inflating the numbers a bit? The problem is, when poo poo on a 7 breaks, it inevitably costs (number between 1 and 9) followed by at least 3 zeroes. And poo poo tends to break on them fairly frequently as they age, because, being the flagship, they get all the newest gizmos as soon as they come out, often before all the kinks are worked out. By the time the same tech trickles down to the 5 and 3 series several years later, all the problems are usually worked out. See also: http://www.my750.com/ Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Apr 27, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 00:58
|
|
|
Humm. I noticed that just up off of idle, my E36's Vanos unit is making some grumbly noises. Only noticeable if you get under the hood and tug on the throttle cable to make the engine rev a bit. Is it time for Dr. Vanos?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
Speaking of bad ideas, I've started looking at the last of the E38s because I've been putting too many miles on the M3. Some of these actually look like they've been cared for.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 04:42
|
|
|
originalnickname posted:Is it honestly going to cost 6-9000 minimum per year just to keep this on the road? What kind of stuff breaks that would require that kind of maintenance cost? This sucks because I think it (would have) been cool to roll around in a depreciated 7 series, unless maybe you're inflating the numbers a bit? if you need to satisfy the big sedan crave, look into the V8 models.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 05:22
|
|
|
I read about how easy it is to replace the rear springs on an e36 (unbolt shocks, push down control arm down, reach in and remove and replace) so I was wholly unprepared for the actual job. In retrospect I think most people might be replacing the old springs with lowering ones so they have much more clearance when putting the new one in. With new stock springs, the max deflection I could manage on the control arm with the sway bar removed and a prybar was still an inch too short. No spring compressor I had really worked, since the spring is recessed in a cubbyhole and there's no room to put it in with a couple compressors hanging off the side. Eventually I got one spring in by using compressors at an angle, and even then they got stuck between the control arm and bulkhead while I was trying to uncompress them, necessitating me disassembling them while partially loaded to get them out (I wore a motorcycle helmet just in case, I must've looked ridiculous...) I still have the other side to do, is there anything I'm missing? I'm not keen to repeat the same procedure again. The official way involves removing the drive axle, I'm not too keen on dealing with that rustball either but I will if I have to. I might end up having to replace the other axle anyway, I don't think it was designed to deflect as far as it did while I was trying to get the spring in  I'm sure the RTABs weren't happy about that either...
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 05:46
|
|
|
I used a really long (5 foot) prybar. Helps to have a buddy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 06:38
|
|
|
Speaking of annoying jobs to do, I'm trying to drop my diff so I can replace the leaking rear seal and put new bushings in, and I got the diff unbolted from it's mounts fine, but now I can't get the half shafts off the diff - the stupid e-torx bolts holding each axle on are partially obstructed by the collar on the u-joint's dust boot; my e-torx sockets are just a hair too fat to fit all the way onto two of the bolts due to protrusions from the boot collar, and trying to undo the bolts with the socket only partially on there has now rounded out one of the bolts. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 07:31
|
|
|
Das Volk posted:Some of these actually look like they've been cared for. quote:
I think a lot of the mechanical things, as far as the V8 models are concerned, are no that bad. However, when you start getting into the electrical/accessories on the e38's, that's where the repair bills come in. I guess it's "what can you live with, what do you need to fix" but it's gonna be expensive when you fix something. I'm getting a new nav/radio unit on my e46 under warranty, and that's like $3800 just in parts. Hope you can figure out an aftermarket radio when that thing shits the bed.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 08:31
|
|
|
Xy Hapu posted:I read about how easy it is to replace the rear springs on an e36 (unbolt shocks, push down control arm down, reach in and remove and replace) so I was wholly unprepared for the actual job. In retrospect I think most people might be replacing the old springs with lowering ones so they have much more clearance when putting the new one in. With new stock springs, the max deflection I could manage on the control arm with the sway bar removed and a prybar was still an inch too short. Use a scissor jack to push down on the trailing arm. Or an e46 spare jack, I don't think the weird e36 jack would work for this. You should never need to use spring compressors on the rear. Disconnect the brake line mounts from the trailing arm before doing this.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 14:48
|
|
|
Thanks for this. Both rear springs are broken on mine. I'm going to attempt the fill from the bottom technique for the clutch hydraulics. There is just that, the aforementioned springs, reverse light, NSS wiring, and driveshaft/exhaust install left. Except for the broken studs on the manifold to pipe I have to deal with "should" be relatively simple once I get the time.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 15:02
|
|
|
Das Volk posted:Speaking of bad ideas, I've started looking at the last of the E38s because I've been putting too many miles on the M3. Some of these actually look like they've been cared for. Do you want to be Jason Statham irl
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 15:02
|
|
|
rscott posted:Do you want to be Jason Statham irl I suppose if I ever crash the M3 I'd have something to swap the running gear into at least 
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 16:50
|
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:I'm getting a new nav/radio unit on my e46 under warranty, and that's like $3800 just in parts. Hope you can figure out an aftermarket radio when that thing shits the bed. That's because BMW. There are enough kits now to make aftermarket poo poo work with no issues. Actually, that kind of poo poo applies to pretty much all cars any more. Also 3800 in parts? I replaced the Central Control Computer (CCC - Basically the brains of iDrive, climate.... well, every thing) in my E60 and it was only $1200 with programming from the dealer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 16:55
|
|
|
So this was parked behind my house this weekend. I see this dude driving around my town with the car this low so I am not sure if it's on bags or static? I also don't know how he drives through central PA that low in general. I like the look but holy poo poo, how is it drivable?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 00:42
|
|
|
A car that long would surely high center on speed bumps.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 00:46
|
|
|
Gotta be air bags or hydraulics, because my stock ride height ZHP already bottoms out just trying to get out of the east end driveway of my apartment lot.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 06:46
|
|
|
You get used to driving something that low. It's not that difficult with a LSD, some plates welded to the underbody stategically, and knowing what you can and can't make it over.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 06:55
|
|
|
Like those idiots that stop their cars and get out plywood planks in order to get their cars over small bumps in the road.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 12:24
|
|
|
Das Volk posted:Speaking of bad ideas, I've started looking at the last of the E38s because I've been putting too many miles on the M3. Some of these actually look like they've been cared for. Yeah a coworker of mine picked up a 740il (2002 I think) a few months ago, with similar numbers to that one. It's in perfect shape; I went "Dang! That is clean" when I saw it and even when I got up close it held true. Everything under the hood looked fantastic as well. What a beautiful car. The guy is a huge dick though, and after listening to him be all smug about how cheap it was I am eagerly awaiting the first shop visit. In fact, I referred him to my BMW shop because I want them to stay in business. They already hooked him by diagnosing and fixing a fuse issue with his seat adjustors, free
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 14:44
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:Bushing stuff Thanks for this! Might give it a crack pretty soon.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 15:02
|
|
|
Das Volk posted:Speaking of bad ideas, I've started looking at the last of the E38s because I've been putting too many miles on the M3. Some of these actually look like they've been cared for. I love this car. Totally an underrated car in the James Bond series. Speaking of bad ideas... 1992 325IS being sold by a BMW dealer in TN. Asking price of $2,000 w/ 200k miles:  http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/ek04024.pdf What could possibly go wrong? If only it were a stick (I think it even has a LSD). (I come in peace)
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 16:06
|
|
|
Nowhere near worth it without a stick. That car is worth 500.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
92/93 MY had the nonvanos motor which is down on power.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 16:52
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:92/93 MY had the nonvanos motor which is down on power. Kinda, it has less torque but overall power is about the same. The real crappy thing is the fuel mileage (18mpg)
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 16:54
|
|
|
Sitting outside a tire shop in providence waiting for two new tires to replace the bubbled ones on my e90. I'm only on 17s and I'm careful as I can be when driving around town. Providence is like a war zone so even doing my best I must've hit something harder than I realized. I can't imagine what guys running 18s and 19s have to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 19:42
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Kinda, it has less torque but overall power is about the same. The real crappy thing is the fuel mileage (18mpg) Torque difference is near as makes no difference (3ft-lb), it's the torque curve being less flat that hurts the M50NV. Peak torque is 500rpm earlier in the VANOS motor.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2014 21:29
|
|
|
E39 question time: -the wagon is in very good shape with the only glaring cosmetic problem being the passenger side of the from bumper is hanging out. It looks like the fender liner screws are out and the fender liner itself looks kind of chewed up. Any tips on getting this thing back into place without removing the entire bumper? The bumper has PDC and the washer jets for the lights, and I'm wondering if replacement is possible, if I were to go that route, with those features. Hell, is it even possible to get a non-m5 replacement new bumper? If I do need to drop the bumper to get it resituated, are the pdc sensors and washer jets a pain to deal with? -I want to put the aux input adapter on my stereo but it looks like my model year, 2002, is too early for simply the kit and I'll need to upgrade the head unit and the CD player, too. Do I really need both? All of the guides on this are online so it's hard to tell which one I need without the connectors visible. It looks like the input connector is on the CD drive but the head unit itself had firmware that also plays part. Can anyone enlighten me on this? I've installed the aux input on an e46 before, for context.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 02:09
|
|
|
Dirt cheap comedy-option E65 2002 BMW 745i update (7 days of ownership so far): This car is so goddamn comfortable. I get in it and all of my worries go away. Traffic no longer bothers me. It is just bliss sitting behind the wheel of one of these cars.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 07:25
|
|
|
Pretty Boy Floyd posted:E39 question time: You could always get a Dice which plugs into your stock CD changer port and allows for aux and iPod connectivity but they're a little touchy about what iPods they actually work with. Personally I refuse to put single-din radios in BMWs that didn't come with them because I think they look like rear end--and very few aftermarket radios look good in that slot. Then there's also the fact that after Audiovox bought Dice they've dropped off the planet pretty much. Tl;dr: pull the radio and see if you have the CANBUS harness. So long as you're okay with the looks, you're pretty much best off just installing an aftermarket head with another decade's worth of tech dev behind it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 07:40
|
|
|
Nait Sirhc posted:Dirt cheap comedy-option E65 2002 BMW 745i update (7 days of ownership so far): Be careful, big, comfy cars corrupt.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 11:07
|
|
|
Two weeks ago I drove to Houston and bought a 2002 530i with 112k miles on it for $6k (to replace my mom's 2001 Toyota Echo with 1/4million miles that she gave me ). On the way home I discovered that it had some really cool poo poo like rain sensing window wipers. After reading through the user manual about all the options that could have come with the car, I'm utterly floored that some of the technology existed that long ago (primarily adaptive cruise control). I can only imagine what the tech is like inside a 2014 model. (I stared at the $91,000 version in the show room for a good ten minutes) Amber warning light and "ABS" and "BRAKE" lights are coming on, which I read in the manuals indicates a malfunction in the DSC/ABS system, with no affect on old-fashioned foot-on-pedal breaking. I took it to the nearest BMW dealership yesterday, and they're ordering a part and pressurizing the breaking system (or something...all of this is totally over my head as I know nothing about fixing cars). That should run close to $2000. Fingers crossed there's nothing seriously wrong with the car because it feels loving amazing to drive and 100k miles is nothing, and I only drive 10 miles a day at most and to sit inside a BMW and think, "This thing is mine." is awesome. i am harry fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Apr 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 13:44
|
|
|
i am harry posted:Amber warning light and "ABS" and "BRAKE" lights are coming on, which I read in the manuals indicates a malfunction in the DSC/ABS system, with no affect on old-fashioned foot-on-pedal breaking. I took it to the nearest BMW dealership yesterday, and they're ordering a part and pressurizing the breaking system (or something...all of this is totally over my head as I know nothing about fixing cars). That should run close to $2000. You are going to hate your life in a year or two (or less) unless you start putting in the effort to diagnose and solve issues on your car using this thread and google for information, and yourself for labor. BMWs are amazing, but they become extremely expensive if you buy parts and labor from dealerships, and slightly less expensive at an indie shop. I started doing real work on my E46 when I bought it without much prior experience fixing cars. Its not actually that hard to do, but I understand how daunting it can seem. Welcome to hell. 
concise fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Apr 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 14:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 06:32 |
|
|
Pretty Boy Floyd posted:E39 question time: 2002 is a bad year for the radio on the e39. The software is not there to use the BMW aux port even though the cable will plug in. You need a 2003 radio for this to work. Do you have the CD changer? On my 2002 I bought a CD changer for $40 shipped from ebay. I installed that and then unplugged the audio in connector from the CD changer to the radio. I made an adapter that had the correct pinout for the radio side and an 1/8" stereo jack on the other end. This plugs into the audio in for the CD changer. Now I set the radio to the CD changer option and the audio plays from my phone. This only works if you have the CD changer though. The radio will not go to the CD changer setting unless the CD changer is present and one CD is in the cartridge.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 16:01
|
|
