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Kommando posted:Does anyone have some opinions on Vallejo satin varnish? Gloss varnish is too shiny for what I'm working on. And flat is too flat and doesn't protect the paint well. The solution is to spray on a coat of gloss varnish, let it dry, then apply a coat of matte finish. Oh poo poo, oh oh gently caress!       
Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 13:58 on May 1, 2014 |
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May 1, 2014 13:49
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:52 |
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Any suggestions on where to pick up LEDs (I'm American)? I have a couple Reaper Bones translucent minis I'd like to do lighted bases for to make 'em glow. EDIT: They're the green ghosts, not the orange elementals. Esser-Z fucked around with this message at 14:06 on May 1, 2014 |
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May 1, 2014 14:03
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Good god
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May 1, 2014 14:03
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So far so good. Italeri: Flat White, Flat Light Grey, Flat Dark Ghost Grey, Flat Black. P3: Bastion Grey, Frostbite. Vallejo: Blue-green, Deep sky blue, Oily Steel, Satin Varnish. Army Painter: Dark Tone Tamiya: X22 Gloss Clear Misc colours for stars. Now I need to figure out how to paint the York and Sovetskii Soyuz warships the same patchwork style.
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May 1, 2014 14:22
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Had a look in person on that Cheap Generic Chinese compressor and it's really dinky. I think I'll go the extra mile and order an airbrush specific compressor. Possibly the Hseng AS186 with tank or equivalent.
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May 1, 2014 15:33
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Krylon has flat and gloss varnishes. Has anyone tried these? They're a LOT cheaper than Testor's if they're any good.
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May 1, 2014 16:06
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I use Krylon Matte for everything I paint. Never had any issues.
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May 1, 2014 16:07
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Duplicolor primer, Liquitex color spray, Krylon matte sealer, all day erryday.
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May 1, 2014 16:11
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Hellbeard posted:Had a look in person on that Cheap Generic Chinese compressor and it's really dinky. I think I'll go the extra mile and order an airbrush specific compressor. Possibly the Hseng AS186 with tank or equivalent. This is the one I got, looks like it's on sale again. Though I forget where you live. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item $89.96 + $12.99 shipping  Runs quiet and smooth. Not the biggest tank but air seems to stay cool and dry, which is surprising down in Florida. Edit: There are always many variations of this model sold with hoses or cheap brushes as well. I would browse around if you have time.
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May 1, 2014 16:13
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will blow your mind.
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Beerdeer posted:Krylon has flat and gloss varnishes. Has anyone tried these? They're a LOT cheaper than Testor's if they're any good. They are great but still won't do a good job if used when cold (like any spray can). If you don't have an airbrush use it.
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May 1, 2014 16:21
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Hey so I am looking at getting genuinely good brushes. I bought a series 7 and I really like it. Aside from not getting paint in the ferrule, how do I care for these things? I have heard poo poo about actually using conditioner on them and having brush soap but I don't know what kind of soap I should be using, how hard I should be willing to treat them, etc. I'd like to stop having to buy new lovely brushes that fray and whatnot, but I fear breaking them  Someone tell me what brush soap to buy and how to use it
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May 1, 2014 17:18
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signalnoise posted:Someone tell me what brush soap to buy and how to use it Personally, I use Pink Soap liquid from Mona Lisa, and The Master's Brush Cleaner & Conditioner. The former works like dishwashing detergent you mix into your wash water; the latter is a solid block in a jar that you mash the bristles on after moistening. I use the Pink Soap for most of my cleaning-between-colors washing, and Master's for the end of the session to make sure my ferrules are clean. Both work pretty well; you'll probably use the liquid for a lot of your cleaning, but the solid will last ages. They're both readily available at Michaels. e: typos
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May 1, 2014 17:31
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Beerdeer posted:Krylon has flat and gloss varnishes. Has anyone tried these? They're a LOT cheaper than Testor's if they're any good. I originally tried using Krylon Matte Varnish but I could never get my models matte enough with it before it started frosting up. I use Future for gloss varnish (airbrush or brush-on) and Liquitex Matte Varnish through an airbrush now.
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May 1, 2014 17:54
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signalnoise posted:Someone tell me what brush soap to buy and how to use it Just go to your nearest art store and buy the cheapest brush soap they have, they're basically all the same lemony stuff. Rinse your brush like usual, then your brush and "paint" with it on the brush soap, rinsing the foam from time to time.
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May 1, 2014 18:00
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signalnoise posted:Good god Laughing God*
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May 1, 2014 18:41
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Would that Instant Mould stuff be good for churning out a load of shoulder pads? In their wisdom, GW have discontinued the pads for the chapter I paint, and I only have a couple left.
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May 1, 2014 18:59
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WhiteOutMouse posted:This is the one I got, looks like it's on sale again. Though I forget where you live. I have the same compressor and it's great- pretty cheap, cool, and quiet enough.
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May 1, 2014 20:30
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Esser-Z posted:Any suggestions on where to pick up LEDs (I'm American)? I have a couple Reaper Bones translucent minis I'd like to do lighted bases for to make 'em glow. You could do places like Mouser or Digikey, but for small quantities of things I tend to opt towards Sparkfun. Their site's pretty friendly. Fry's Electronics has a components aisle (if you live near one), and Radio Shack may still stock stuff like this at their markups. Edit: Adafruit's not bad for other electronics fun stuff, too.
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May 1, 2014 20:41
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Iris of Ether posted:You could do places like Mouser or Digikey, but for small quantities of things I tend to opt towards Sparkfun. Their site's pretty friendly. Thanks a ton! I'll look into those sites. Not sure when I'll get on this particular project, though, heh. Kinda intimidated by it.
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May 1, 2014 20:43
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WhiteOutMouse posted:This is the one I got, looks like it's on sale again. Though I forget where you live. Im pretty sure everyoen i know that has an airbrush has that compressor.
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May 1, 2014 21:30
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Esser-Z posted:Thanks a ton! I'll look into those sites. Not sure when I'll get on this particular project, though, heh. Kinda intimidated by it. No worries! Just buy more LEDs than you need - they're cheap, and you'll probably blow one or two while playing with them. If you can get a cheap resistor pack at the same time (containing values in the 10-1000ohm range), that'll also help you when you go to wire it. Thankfully LEDs are pretty forgiving, but if you have more questions feel free to ask when you get to it. 
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May 1, 2014 21:34
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Iris of Ether posted:No worries! Just buy more LEDs than you need - they're cheap, and you'll probably blow one or two while playing with them. If you can get a cheap resistor pack at the same time (containing values in the 10-1000ohm range), that'll also help you when you go to wire it. Well, I've never done electronics like this at all before, so if you have any good tutorials handy, I'd really appreciate it! I'm getting further into this hobby than I used to think I could. 
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May 1, 2014 21:37
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Lungboy posted:Would that Instant Mould stuff be good for churning out a load of shoulder pads? In their wisdom, GW have discontinued the pads for the chapter I paint, and I only have a couple left. I did it for my Angels of Absolution. Well, to be more exact, I just made a lot of copies of the design and glued the cured greenstuff onto a shoulder pad. Same difference, really.   I'm not sure you'll want to make a copy of an ENTIRE shoulder pad, since it'll be kind of rubbery unless you're using brown stuff or something equally hard. But for simple designs? Go for it.
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May 1, 2014 22:23
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Slimnoid posted:Awesome stuff. I hadn't thought of just copying the chapter icon from the raised bit of the pad. That sounds like a good idea, is it easy to do on such small things? And is there a generic name for the stuff to avoid paying a brand tax?
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May 1, 2014 23:07
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Lungboy posted:I hadn't thought of just copying the chapter icon from the raised bit of the pad. That sounds like a good idea, is it easy to do on such small things? And is there a generic name for the stuff to avoid paying a brand tax? Very easy. For those symbols I designed the original by just cutting out a wing from thin plastic, gluing it to some thick plasticard so it didn't fly off somewhere, and then carefully cut and glued one of the skulls from the GW buildings. Press down mold, and ta-da! It isn't any more difficult for normal shoulder pads either, and you do have the bonus of it already being slightly curved, but I find it to be easier to get a flat, even level of GS with the way I did it. YMMV. The generic name is called oyumaru. It originated in Japan and is sold super cheap over there, though the shipping is where it'll kill you; here's an example of cheap price with high shipping cost. Shop around, you'll find it for cheap.
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May 1, 2014 23:47
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Slimnoid posted:Very easy. For those symbols I designed the original by just cutting out a wing from thin plastic, gluing it to some thick plasticard so it didn't fly off somewhere, and then carefully cut and glued one of the skulls from the GW buildings. Press down mold, and ta-da! It isn't any more difficult for normal shoulder pads either, and you do have the bonus of it already being slightly curved, but I find it to be easier to get a flat, even level of GS with the way I did it. YMMV. Thanks for the help. I managed to find some for £7 for 6 sticks which should last me ages. There were cheaper places selling but in Hong Kong and I'd rather support my local store.
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May 2, 2014 00:06
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Holy poo poo, I just used Vallejo Black for the first time, and 
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May 2, 2014 00:15
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Lungboy posted:Thanks for the help. I managed to find some for £7 for 6 sticks which should last me ages. There were cheaper places selling but in Hong Kong and I'd rather support my local store. No problem. Oyumaru/magic mold can be reused over and over, so it's pretty much going to last you forever. You can cut it down to any size, and combine chunks to suit your needs. It's invaluable. ijyt posted:Holy poo poo, I just used Vallejo Black for the first time, and Vallejo Air Black is my personal jesus.
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May 2, 2014 01:13
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Hellbeard posted:Had a look in person on that Cheap Generic Chinese compressor and it's really dinky. I think I'll go the extra mile and order an airbrush specific compressor. Possibly the Hseng AS186 with tank or equivalent. Seriously, no, do not. Most things made in China are by lowest-bid slave traders who can't even make components that are interchangeable on the same production line. Even the motor scooters made their are prone to failure, and it's so hard to gently caress up motor scooters that Slovenian models like Tomos are pretty drat good. Even if you don't care about the moral failures of buying from a company that exploits slave labor, do not waste your money! If you can modify an appropriate air compressor to fit your airbrush, do it, but do not skimp on quality. It's one thing to buy from a Kentucky manufacturer rather than a northeast production line, but for a core device you want to last for a while and maybe repair if it breaks down don't use bottom shelf stuff.
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May 2, 2014 01:16
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Sorry to deviate from the compressor talk, just asking for any tips to finish this mini. My wife's old PC, a NG half-orcish Druid. Any ideas? I think the hair needs a fresh coat of black and some highlights with a satin finish, butthat's all I can think of. Props to the DGS Games guys for their good use of armoured/less slutty looking female figures.
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May 2, 2014 02:05
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Weirdo posted:Sorry to deviate from the compressor talk, just asking for any tips to finish this mini. Maybe lighten up the face a bit? The flat green along with the dark eyes make her look more spectral than orcish. http://www.dgsgames.com/index.php/gallery-link/link-minis/view-image/61691a6d0b959c4fbc53539958d69a9f/jpg The demo model here, though I really didn't like it, is getting at what I mean. The highlight on the cheek bone (and some other places) would do a lot. Under 15 fucked around with this message at 02:15 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 02:13
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Under 15 posted:Maybe lighten up the face a bit? The flat green along with the dark eyes make her look more spectral than orcish. Thanks, I'll give it a go!
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May 2, 2014 02:40
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Esser-Z posted:Well, I've never done electronics like this at all before, so if you have any good tutorials handy, I'd really appreciate it! I wrote some  about sticking a LED into Wyrmgear in the Reaper thread, including the parts I chose and why. The goons in the Learning Electronics megathread are also pretty friendly.Weirdo posted:Sorry to deviate from the compressor talk, just asking for any tips to finish this mini. Ooh, pretty. I'ma look through my figures for a lady to orc up now.
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May 2, 2014 05:04
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Crosspost from 40k thread: I finished my Fire Dragon squad, tried to get pictures in the morning here so the light probably isn't the best, but meh:     I also just noticed a couple of gems messed up, so I'll make those corrections.
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May 2, 2014 12:52
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Crosspost from the recently-ended Oath Thread: Look, guys, I finally figured out how to kinda properly use my airbrush! ...Coming
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May 2, 2014 18:51
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I'm doing some DKoK in Epic scale, and decided on basing them with Army Painter Wolf Grey, with a Asurmen Blue wash. Obviously, GW changed up their pants, so I don't want to use something that I may not be able to color match if I run out halfway through. As a replacement, do I want to look at the Gulliman Blue Glaze, or the Nightshade Blue Shade? I'm guessing the Shade is what I want, as I do want to bring out the panel lines and rivets. Am I correct in that supposition?
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May 2, 2014 18:57
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'm doing some DKoK in Epic scale, and decided on basing them with Army Painter Wolf Grey, with a Asurmen Blue wash. Obviously, GW changed up their pants, so I don't want to use something that I may not be able to color match if I run out halfway through. As a replacement, do I want to look at the Gulliman Blue Glaze, or the Nightshade Blue Shade? I'm guessing the Shade is what I want, as I do want to bring out the panel lines and rivets. Am I correct in that supposition? You want the shade. Shades are the new washes. Glazes are used for tinting and saturating colors. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 19:47 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 19:06
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Thanks - I wanted to be sure before I dropped the money and found out it won't do what I want it to.
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May 2, 2014 19:31
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Borrowing the announcement from the Bones thread... Oath Season 5 is go! Come hang out, chill with other painting goons, and maybe win some prizes! The rules have been (very) simplified this year, there's a bunch of prize support (and more to come!), and there's no "minimum oath" so you can just oath a single figure to paint in a whole month if you want to.
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May 2, 2014 19:44
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:52 |
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I've been looking forward to the new Oath season starting, hopefully gonna motivate me to paint some more mans!
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May 2, 2014 23:28
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