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Yeah, I meant wheel. My biggest problem was loving with the brake and keeping that in position while fighting the tire that doesn't want to come out of the swingarm. As for the handling I remember reading some people sperg about whether or not helps/hinder traction. Being able to fall in faster is what I like so much about my new tires 
Marxalot fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 02:15
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Does anybody have experience with the EBC MXS pads? I put a set on the DRZ for this season and they feel kinda weird. It could be a master cylinder problem but I'm just curious if anyone has first hand experience with them. All the reviews I've read are great, but the brakes just feel like they're not performing very well. Maybe the pad compound is bad for street use and needs to get heated up before it works well but I'm not sure. Also I rode my buddy's somewhat worked-over VFR750 today. It was hilarious going back to the DRZ, it's basically a bicycle. Yerok fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 01:48
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I have the EBC MXS 185's on mine and they feel fine to me. If I had to pick something to say, I would say that as far as initial bite is concerned, they dont bite that hard with just little bits of lever pull, which might be what feels weird to you. The braking force does go up rapidly with more lever pressure, however, and I have never felt like mine would not stop me adequately. I would say that the stock pads grab harder initially, but their braking force flattens out as you apply pressure, whereas the EBC's have more of a progressive grab as pressure is applied. Also bear in mind that I have a Brembo master cylinder, so we are going to have slightly different experiences with the same pads.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:19
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That describes what's going on for me, exactly. The initial bite isn't as hard as the OEM pads but after that they feel good. I dropped a clip on the needle yesterday and holy poo poo did it make a difference. Now I need to re-time the accelerator pump that I hosed with because I thought it was causing my part throttle issues.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:42
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Yerok posted:That describes what's going on for me, exactly. The initial bite isn't as hard as the OEM pads but after that they feel good. I dropped a clip on the needle yesterday and holy poo poo did it make a difference. Now I need to re-time the accelerator pump that I hosed with because I thought it was causing my part throttle issues. Good to hear. I'm pretty sure my bike is slightly rich all across the throttle range. I'm going to start with the needle clip and go from there. Pumper carb here too. Did you aim the pump output?
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Apr 28, 2014 20:04
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Good to hear. I'm pretty sure my bike is slightly rich all across the throttle range. I'm going to start with the needle clip and go from there. Pumper carb here too. Did you aim the pump output? I never moved the direction of the actual nozzle from stock, if that's what you're asking. I just adjusted the timing. To be honest I didn't know that rotating the nozzle was a thing until it came up in some harley forum when I was googling AP issues.
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Apr 28, 2014 20:25
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is it worth 'tardin an 06 yz250f, for track and racing fun? seems like a legit, and fairly priced covnersion kit, firends have experience with them (all positive). http://www.toxicmotoracing.com/shop/conversion-kits/34-economy-supermoto-conversion.html
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Apr 30, 2014 03:47
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I think the only issue will probably be the suspension being a bit soft, but I don't have direct experience with converting a 250 four stroke. I guess even that is easily fixable.
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Apr 30, 2014 04:21
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Gonna be listing my 2008 Husqvarna sm610 on SMJ and CL soon if any goonies want first dibs on it. Based out of Indianapolis. About 9.5k to 10k miles. Up-Tite exhaust with plug/jumper, JD jetting (FI), just replaced cam chain, sprockets (one down in front), and drive chain, all maintenance records on hand for break in period, and always fed a steady flow of oil changes whether it needs it or not.  Never rode hard and never wheelied  Probably gonna be asking around 4800 to 5000.   
Incursus fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 04:24
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Well it's official. I am now the terrified and excited owner of a new 2014 DRZ400SM. I got to go see it in person while signing off on final documents at the dealership and man it is so pretty. I was terrified by its idle rev noise because my brain was all "dam that is not a CRF 230" Hopefully I can pick it up before the weekend and get to breaking in the engine (a process which I still don't really get)
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Apr 30, 2014 21:06
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Niiiice, I like those blue wheels on the new ones. Break in procedure: don't hold it at a constant rpm for long, vary the throttle, change the oil when the manual says to. That's it. Drz motors are tough units, it will be fine.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:43
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It'll be pretty tame with stock everything. Just remember to cover the rear brake for when you're trying to get it to 12 o'clock next weekend.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:54
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Also, it's too late since you bought new (Congrats by the way!) but you can find drat near anything (excepting wheels - those usually stay pretty expensive and sell quick) used for DRZ's. Don't feel like you're obligated to pay full price for aftermarket stuff. Dig around Thumpertalk classifieds and SupermotoJunkie, etc. and you can find some deals on parts.
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May 1, 2014 00:14
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2014 DRZ? gently caress you KTM There is one 690 SMC on craigslist right now. A 2010. Price? $8,000. 
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May 1, 2014 00:25
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Seems pretty reasonable. 
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May 1, 2014 00:37
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About how many miles do you guys think is necessary for the piston seal break-in? Am I really gonna have to do this constant revving/downshifting oscillation style of riding for 600 miles?
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May 2, 2014 01:07
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Razzled posted:About how many miles do you guys think is necessary for the piston seal break-in? Am I really gonna have to do this constant revving/downshifting oscillation style of riding for 600 miles? To properly ride like a sumo hooligan, you will want to do that on every corner forever
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May 2, 2014 01:43
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Razzled posted:About how many miles do you guys think is necessary for the piston seal break-in? Am I really gonna have to do this constant revving/downshifting oscillation style of riding for 600 miles? If you bought your drz with the intent of NOT constantly revving and downshifting, you may be disappointed...
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May 2, 2014 01:52
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:If you bought your drz with the intent of NOT constantly revving and downshifting, you may be disappointed... I guess I'm just not really understanding how to maximize the potential of my bike in this break in period. Really the only thing that kind of bothers me is the "don't idle" part. There aren't many country roads around where I live so I'm gonna be doing this on the highway and streets
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May 2, 2014 01:55
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You seem to be really stuck on this. Just ride normally, and don't take any long trips for the first 600 miles  what's the problem?And ok, try not to lug it, if you can help it. And don't wail on it before the engine has warmed. But you should be doing those things anyways, so again, ride normally!
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May 2, 2014 01:58
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Just ride the drat thing
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May 2, 2014 02:55
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May 2, 2014 04:49
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Get rid of those rubbers for your feetsies more grip for jumps and wheelies.
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May 2, 2014 07:08
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Cycle Asylum > The SuperMotard Thread: No Feetsies allowed
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May 2, 2014 07:27
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Razzled posted:I guess I'm just not really understanding how to maximize the potential of my bike in this break in period. Really the only thing that kind of bothers me is the "don't idle" part. There aren't many country roads around where I live so I'm gonna be doing this on the highway and streets I think you're overthinking it. Dont go for a 30 mile ride where you hold the throttle at the exact same RPM the whole time. Basically if you just ride the thing it will be fine.
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May 2, 2014 14:21
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Does it? I just put a new chain and sprockets on mine (yay +3 in the rear) and I was thinking about just leaving the cover off alltogether and just using the stock case guard that goes under the cover e: ugh double post
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May 2, 2014 14:22
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Get rid of those rubbers for your feetsies more grip for jumps and wheelies. Yeah I moved from riding a 2006 bareback, to a 2011 with rubbers. The rubbers feel weird
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May 2, 2014 15:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Does it? I just put a new chain and sprockets on mine (yay +3 in the rear) and I was thinking about just leaving the cover off alltogether and just using the stock case guard that goes under the cover When you say "case guard" I'm assuming you mean the chain guide that prevents the chain from smashing the case if (when!?) the chain breaks. Since those two 8mm bolts go through the sprocket cover and the chain guide, then without the sprocket cover you'll need shorter bolts.
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May 2, 2014 15:25
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epalm posted:When you say "case guard" I'm assuming you mean the chain guide that prevents the chain from smashing the case if (when!?) the chain breaks. Yeah, I figured I could just replace them with some shorter stainless allen bolts, get that rad open chain look, and make the output shaft nut easy to check for looseness all in one.
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May 2, 2014 16:16
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Does anyone have a concrete opinion on the DRC edge2 tail lights? I need replacements for my OEM setup but I don't want anything that is overtly unsafe because it's hard to see. Is the +$80 12oclocks upgrade board necessary to bring it into the realm of safety? Also can you use the stock blinkers with it?
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May 6, 2014 04:58
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The edge and the edge 2 are the same exact light. The edge 2 is just universal fit, whereas the edge 1 can be ordered with mounts specifically for certain bikes. The Edge lights are bright enough to be seen easily during the day. I'd argue that they're brighter than the stock DRZ tail light. You can use the stock DRZ blinkers with it. They look goofy, but they're tough as hell, so that's hard to argue with.
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May 6, 2014 05:15
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The edge and the edge 2 are the same exact light. The edge 2 is just universal fit, whereas the edge 1 can be ordered with mounts specifically for certain bikes. I have an Edge 1 with stock blinkers and I'm pretty happy with the setup. The light output is pretty good and the blinkers might look goofy but holy poo poo do they take a beating.
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May 6, 2014 05:23
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Razzled posted:Does anyone have a concrete opinion on the DRC edge2 tail lights? I need replacements for my OEM setup but I don't want anything that is overtly unsafe because it's hard to see. Is the +$80 12oclocks upgrade board necessary to bring it into the realm of safety? I put the DRC Edge 2 and this Custom LED brake light modulator in my 625 SMC after nearly getting rear ended. http://www.customled.com/products/magic-strobes-brake-light-flasher The Edge 2 seemed pretty darn bright to me, and the brake light modulator seemed like a good addition. I had it set to do 3 fast blinks, hold, and repeat. It can do some rave-level-flashing patterns, but I thought those might startle whoever is following me more than just alert them that I am braking.
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May 6, 2014 06:28
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My wife almost rear ended a guy being a dong on a sportbike that had a flasher. Being bright out, and a lovely LED tail, it looked like just normal sunlight flashes. Real talk: how dumb would I be to commute every day on a drz? Like 90% highway, roughly 60mi roundtrip. I feel like I already know the answer, but gently caress. I want one.
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May 6, 2014 06:55
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On a KTM not bad because that 6th gear. DRZ would probably suck but who knows.
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May 6, 2014 07:59
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iwentdoodie posted:My wife almost rear ended a guy being a dong on a sportbike that had a flasher. Being bright out, and a lovely LED tail, it looked like just normal sunlight flashes. I commute most every day, but it's a 30mi round trip on a 60mph highway. The bike does it just fine, but there are better options out there. Be prepared to buy lots of tires. fakeedit: I got caught by a train today. It's nice being able to just hop the median and burn off in the other direction while everyone else is stuck. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 10:21 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 10:17
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Razzled posted:Does anyone have a concrete opinion on the DRC edge2 tail lights? I need replacements for my OEM setup but I don't want anything that is overtly unsafe because it's hard to see. Is the +$80 12oclocks upgrade board necessary to bring it into the realm of safety? I used the R&G Tail Tidy, highly recommended. Looks like this.
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May 6, 2014 11:33
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I used the R&G Tail Tidy, highly recommended. If you ever plan to ride in the rain don't scrap the OEM tailpiece, all those tail tidy ones mean you will have a brown line of road dirt up your back every time you ride.
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May 6, 2014 18:27
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iwentdoodie posted:Real talk: how dumb would I be to commute every day on a drz? Like 90% highway, roughly 60mi roundtrip. I feel like I already know the answer, but gently caress. I want one. The bike will be fine. I personally dont mind 5-speed bikes on the highway, and the DRZ likes to rev anyway. Learn to use the wind blast to hold yourself up a bit and take weight off your arms and wrists. Dont go into full tuck idiot mode. If you're not comfortable with standing up at freeway speed, either get a different seat, or get comfortable standing up, because thats a lifesaver once your rear end starts to hurt. I did a 40-mile round trip commute for a couple years, first on an XL250, then on a DRZ, so the DRZ was a big upgrade as far as highway riding went. Either way, I was always fine with it. I think I'm weird though, because I never have problems with bikes that others dont like on the highway.
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May 6, 2014 19:00
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| # ? May 10, 2024 12:48 |
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iwentdoodie posted:Real talk: how dumb would I be to commute every day on a drz? Like 90% highway, roughly 60mi roundtrip. I feel like I already know the answer, but gently caress. I want one. Unrelated, but I can't imagine having a 20 mile round trip commute, much less a 60 mile commute. I've found that my quality of life is best when I have somewhere between a 1 and 3 mile commute -- around 15 minutes on a good day. How do people do it?
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May 6, 2014 19:05
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