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Bad Munki posted:Of course, that's because they also don't realize that like the most important feature of a flywheel is its high mass which gives it a large amount of momentum, which lets it power through logs at a low speed. Yep. Here's another kind of splitter working on the same principle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGGH4XKNULU That looks like 150-200 pounds of steel above the wedge, with the coil spring balancing the system. It doesn't matter that the spring slows down the impact when you have that sort of weight falling right through the log.
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Apr 27, 2014 23:10
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I really really really like that splitter, it's perfect. Simple, controlled action, the safety of a manual process, no loving motor noise...I feel like I could split logs all day with that thing and be tickled pink by the end of it, just hangin' out enjoying the out-of-doors meditation. Making note of that design for when I some day have a forest to make firewood from.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 23:38
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Sears appears to be blowing out some of their sharpening stuff. Picked up a WorkSharp 3000 for 70% off. Not sure it's any sharper than the glass plate method, but it certainly is faster.
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Apr 28, 2014 00:09
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Tim Thomas posted:Sears appears to be blowing out some of their sharpening stuff. Picked up a WorkSharp 3000 for 70% off. Not sure it's any sharper than the glass plate method, but it certainly is faster. Did you find it in store? It appears to be the usual price online. Latest tool purchase: a Klein tool electrician's apprentice 6-piece set. Nice to have a good set of electrician's tools instead of the random pliers I was using.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:16
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Bad Munki posted:I really really really like that splitter, it's perfect. Simple, controlled action, the safety of a manual process, no loving motor noise...I feel like I could split logs all day with that thing and be tickled pink by the end of it, just hangin' out enjoying the out-of-doors meditation. Making note of that design for when I some day have a forest to make firewood from. It is worth noting that both the spring-and-weight and the offset axe are shown splitting perfectly straight softwood. I burn about 75% red oak, 25% other crap. The red oak is knotty, twisty, and splintery. My Fiskars Super Splitting Axe is really good, but even then, I still regularly need a wedge and 8# maul. If you burn softwoods, then have at it.
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Apr 28, 2014 02:38
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Tora! Tora! Tora! posted:Did you find it in store? It appears to be the usual price online. Yep, it was in store. Northshore Mall in MA if it helps.
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Apr 28, 2014 02:43
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Just pulled the trigger on the Grizzly Polar bear table saw, excited for May 12th to roll around (expected delivery date). Not excited to try and lug 425 lbs into the back of our trailer.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:07
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sharkytm posted:It is worth noting that both the spring-and-weight and the offset axe are shown splitting perfectly straight softwood. Those were hardwoods, various species. The first piece he splits has twist, so do several others. The maul has a lot of mass, much heavier than your Fiskars or sledge/wedge combo, and is counterbalanced by a spring making it easy to move. Just physics, not shuck and jive.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:17
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Well, my harbor freight trailer is coming along. All together but the motorcycle chocks and tie offs. It really hasn't been that much of a hassle but there were a few steps that could have been documented much better in the manual. So far, would buy again. 
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Apr 29, 2014 01:52
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You got a link for that? I've been looking for a small trailer since I'm going to be selling my truck some day. It looks like it has brackets for sidewalls you can drop in?
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Apr 29, 2014 01:55
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Bad Munki posted:You got a link for that? I've been looking for a small trailer since I'm going to be selling my truck some day. It looks like it has brackets for sidewalls you can drop in? http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-l...ifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A It actually has a coupon right now at Harbor Freight to bring it down to 249.99. I had an easter coupon that brought it down to $220, which really is a steal if it lasts any time at all. Monthly coupon ends Wednesday! The folding one collapses to about a 5x2' footprint and has a capacity of about 1200 lbs, while the heavy duty non-folding trailer gets up to just under 1800 lbs.
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Apr 29, 2014 01:59
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I've been toying with the idea of getting a small laser cutter to have in the garage for a little over a year. I really like making things out of acrylic, and my Shopbot Router is kind of aggressive when it comes to cutting small features in plastics. I've been looking at Full Spectrum Laser, (specifically this one http://fslaser.com/products/lasers/hobby-lasers/newhobby and Epilog's series of low cost machines, which are still more money than I'd want to spend on something like this. Does anybody own one of those hobby lasers, or can anyone recommend me one that they own in the 4k range?
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Apr 29, 2014 02:40
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Dead Pressed posted:Well, my harbor freight trailer is coming along. All together but the motorcycle chocks and tie offs. It really hasn't been that much of a hassle but there were a few steps that could have been documented much better in the manual. Is that a pile of expanding foam that the tongue is resting on?
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Apr 29, 2014 05:43
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Polyurethane geotech grout, to be exact.
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Apr 29, 2014 11:08
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UberVexer posted:I've been toying with the idea of getting a small laser cutter to have in the garage for a little over a year. I really like making things out of acrylic, and my Shopbot Router is kind of aggressive when it comes to cutting small features in plastics. Our hackerspace has an older model of the 40W Hobby Laser. Full Spectrum's support has been less than stellar-- In 3 years, we've experienced 4 sets of electronics go bad (poor design on the stepper drivers, until the latest rev), a laser tube that burned out at 20% it's rated life, and a laser power supply that gave up the ghost without warning. We've also had our fair share of silly problems, like X-axis rollers that melted when cutting small circles through thick material. Except for the first two sets of electronics, we had to pay for everything out of our pocket. The machine itself is simple and easy to fix. Full Spectrum simply imports Chinese laser cutters, replaces the electronics and software, and slaps a healthy markup on the things. If the electronics in the newer models are solid, it should be a decent tool. If you're feeling adventurous, you can import your own from China at a great discount. I'm currently working with http://www.wklaser.com/ to import a 100W, 3'x4' laser. With high-end chiller, extra laser tube, and a few other options, they quoted under $7000 to ship FOB LA. I'm still working with a customs broker locally to figure out how to handle the handover in LA, and get the thing to the Midwest, taxes and import fees paid. Overall, it will be less than $10,000, door to door. Probably less than $8500.
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Apr 29, 2014 12:39
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Bad Munki posted:You got a link for that? I've been looking for a small trailer since I'm going to be selling my truck some day. It looks like it has brackets for sidewalls you can drop in? I read an interesting build thread about these trailers years ago. Just had a quick google and it's still up. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f104/harbor-freight-folding-trailer-modification-write-up-review-463480/ Guy does a lot of welding and things to make it a much more capable trailer. Might be worth a read at least.
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Apr 29, 2014 13:18
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That sucks that there were so many problems with the laser.Zuph posted:If you're feeling adventurous, you can import your own from China at a great discount. I thought about this for a while, and I figured I'd rather have someone in the US to blame when something went wrong, but it sounds like that didn't help you much. I'll check out what wklaser has to offer, thanks.
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Apr 29, 2014 20:53
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I'm looking for suggestions for a compass or set of compass-like tools to draw circles with. I would like a wide range of diameters, say from 1" to 24". Any suggestions? If it's available through Amazon, even better.
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Apr 30, 2014 14:17
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Well, for the widest range of diameters: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-draw-a-circle-with-string/ And with two pivots and a loop of string instead, you can draw ovals, too! I don't recall what shapes you get as you add more pivots, but I believe you get a progressively greater number of rounded "sides" until eventually you're back to a circle as you approach an infinite number of points. Sky's the limit! Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 14:19
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I actually tried this last night. It worked great when I was drawing a 12" circle a few months ago but not so much a 2" circle last night (I'm trying to round out the corners out of that wood you saw from the other thread). I'll give it another go tonight and use string instead of twine, but I don't mind dropping a few bucks on a tool. The oval trick is pretty neat!
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Apr 30, 2014 14:26
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Alternately, use something rigid, like a board. That's how you make a router circle jig: you just get a long board and cut a slot in it for the router bit, and then lock your router in anywhere along the board. Or get some metal rod and make your own beam compass. Or buy one if it's a  situation: http://www.amazon.com/Rotape-Beam-Compass/dp/B001DSXFT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398864653&sr=8-1&keywords=large+compass (that one has a 3.15" minimum radius.)In any event, amazon has an assortment of solutions if you want to just buy one, search for "large compass" and use that as a jumping off point. e: I swear I'm not stalking you ee: but you smile in your sleep 
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Apr 30, 2014 14:31
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Bad Munki posted:Alternately, use something rigid, like a board. That's how you make a router circle jig: you just get a long board and cut a slot in it for the router bit, and then lock your router in anywhere along the board. Or get some metal rod and make your own beam compass. Or buy one if it's a  I like that. I like that a lot. edit: the Rotape, not the pervy voyeurism 
Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 14:50
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Sounds like a beam compass is what you want. If you have any interest in building one check out John Heisz' site: ibuildit.ca. he has several styles of compasses.
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Apr 30, 2014 16:32
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If you just want to round off corners quickly, here are some corner templates that are really easy. The pack comes with convex, concave, and 45* templates. Faster than trying to find the center for a compass.
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May 1, 2014 13:17
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Has anyone tried reconditioning old power tool batteries? I've got a couple of dead / dying Bosch 24v batteries, one 2.0mah NICD and one 2.6 NIMH. There are a whole lot of Youtube videos detailing how you can zap a NICD battery back to life with a jolt from ~double the voltage (i.e. 1no bad 24v battery jolted with 2no good 24v batteries in series). The theory is that crystals build up over time in the individual cells, eventually shorting them, and that sufficient charge can break them up again. This allows the pack to function again, albeit not necessarily at 100%. I've given the NICD battery a couple of jolts at around 48v and results so far seem promising - the multimeter was showing ~10v output before and now it's giving ~20v, though whether this will last remains to be seen. The NIMH one (which I haven't jolted), read at just above 24v as you might expect from a good battery, but there was no power at all when I press the trigger on the drill. Reading from the multimeter the voltage drops to zero under load (when the trigger is pressed), so I checked each individual cell and a couple were dead. I removed these cells from the series and charged the pack, and the drill started working again (obviously at a lower voltage)... I think I will get a couple of replacement cells and see if it bring the pack back to 'full' use again. Has anyone tried this (or got the horrible scars to advise against it?) Gruffalo Soldier fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 23:36
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:Has anyone tried reconditioning old power tool batteries? I think this is a question better fit for the hobby RC thread in AI. I have never heard of restoring batteries, but I have heard of people opening their battery packs and replacing the cells inside. Never heard of that done on a drill before but I cant see why it wouldn't work.
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May 3, 2014 00:03
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So, my dad donated to the cause this lovely little Stanley block plane - probably not antique but closing on it - a single-iron one which he got from his dad. But unfortunately, at some point a storm got into his shed and left it rusted to hell; both the iron and the sole are pretty screwed up, and it's not really in a usable condition right now. I've never gone about restoring anything like this before, can anyone give me a brief rundown? Is it as simple as just running the whole lot across the oilstone until the rust has gone, then squaring it all up?  
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May 3, 2014 18:04
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I would use something more crude like a wire brush and oil to remove the bulk of the rust first. Or soak in an acid based rust remover like citric acid or toilet bowl cleaner. Then move to coarse sandpaper, 80 grit, fixed to glass or MDF. And finally polish until you see fit. I rarely go beyond 80 grit myself, sometimes 120.
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May 3, 2014 19:00
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Thought it would be something like that. Ta. Will post when complete or having problems!
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May 3, 2014 19:45
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For a plane I would go a hell of a lot finer than 120, I'd want to finish on 600 personally, at a minimum.
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May 3, 2014 21:11
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Evaporust! You can buy it at Harbor Freight. Works wonders, won't hurt the paint.
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May 3, 2014 21:43
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What's that in British money :P I'll have a look out next time I'm in homebase and grab some things. I'll probably strip back some if not all of the paint anyway, at least up the sides. It's not terribly attractive right now. I was thinking I'd probably want to go up to a high polish on it. Just making sure it stays square and flat is the most important part I guess.
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May 3, 2014 21:47
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One of these days I'm going to try Evaporust. It's expensive but reusable. I've polished planes to higher grits the first couple I refurbished or tuned but it didn't make any difference in performance. And since mine are for not for display or sentiment I don't bother anymore. But yeah it does look nicer.
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May 3, 2014 21:56
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thespaceinvader posted:What's that in British money :P Go to a place that sells granite counter tops and ask if they have any scraps they would be willing to sell you. The most common would be parts removed for sink openings. Lay it on something flat, spray some water on it, and clamp some wet/dry paper on it and get sanding. I currently use a section of laminate counter top and have refinished two planes this way without any warping or irregularities.
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May 4, 2014 16:30
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You can buy small surface plates on ebay for like $60 shipped. Guaranteed flatter than a piece of counter top, but probably overkill.
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May 5, 2014 01:30
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I saw some 12" square ones at woodcraft for like $40-50 iirc
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May 5, 2014 04:03
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oxbrain posted:You can buy small surface plates on ebay for like $60 shipped. Guaranteed flatter than a piece of counter top, but probably overkill. rotor posted:I saw some 12" square ones at woodcraft for like $40-50 iirc For that amount of money he could buy an armload of those 102's in excellent condition; or a couple of really nice block planes that have been refurbished or otherwise in excellent condition. Restoring the little Stanley is a good exercise but don't get carried away because it's near the cheapest block plane Stanley ever made.
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May 5, 2014 04:42
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Dead Pressed posted:Well, my harbor freight trailer is coming along. All together but the motorcycle chocks and tie offs. It really hasn't been that much of a hassle but there were a few steps that could have been documented much better in the manual. This really is a good trailer. I got a bunch of these tie down points that I put on the frame so I could use ratchet straps. I actually put this together in my office at work and rolled it out folded up.
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May 5, 2014 07:40
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:Has anyone tried reconditioning old power tool batteries?
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May 6, 2014 12:31
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:I tried the ol' pop-'em-with-a-welder trick, and it worked on one, not the other (Ryobi One+ NiCds). Better to just open them up and replace the cells, they're pretty cheap at the battery store. Yeah that seems to be the consensus in the RC thread as well; the one that I did shock went up to about 20v for the night then slowly drained back to a steady 10v. Worth a try I guess! I just got about 100 sub c batteries for a £5 (a job lot of mixed duds and good ones) so hopefully I can piece together at least one good pack out of them!
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May 6, 2014 14:30
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