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Konrad posted:I'll take your word for it. I was just looking to see if there was any anecdotal evidence because I'd never heard of it actually happening. I wouldn't think you would need hard evidence, cars these days are designed to keep steel or anything rigid away from your head and not directly next to it for a reason. If you have a roll bar in your car you should be wearing a helmet. I'd be willing to bet any insurance company would drop you like a hot potato if you told them you installed a roll bar in your car, and would probably deny any claim if you were injured by one. It's just not worth the risk.
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May 5, 2014 18:09
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leica posted:I'd be willing to bet any insurance company would drop you like a hot potato if you told them you installed a roll bar in your car, and would probably deny any claim if you were injured by one. It's just not worth the risk. I promise you that I'm not trying to start some kind of internet slapfight, but I can testify that USAA actually gave me a discount for the rollbar (something-something proactive driver safety feature). They are also fully aware that I AutoX the car on a regular basis; my agent said specifically "we don't cover that, but we also don't really care about what you do with the car while you're doing things not covered under the policy." Your experience may vary.
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May 5, 2014 18:28
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It may vary but if they don't drop you, it doesn't mean they won't deny your claim if you got injured because of the rollbar you told them about. I know for a fact that Geico would drop you.
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May 5, 2014 18:58
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I picked up a '93 with 116k, hardtop and no rot/rust yesterday for $2,500. Ran a bit rough but new plugs, wire and fresh gas has helped. There's a few minor things I need to figure out, most annoying being the blower not working. The A/C light turns on when the button is pushed, but nothing happens when the fan speed dial is moved. There's no air movement at all. Found interior fuse box, everything looks good. Next idea is to pull blower motor and test voltage? GP035 fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 22:07
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I just bought my first Miata! A 1999, well-cared for example driven by a middle-aged woman. I'm really looking forward to putting some miles on it!
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May 6, 2014 03:59
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gobble gobble one of us, one of us. Get yourself some sway bars and a set of BFgoodrich "G force sport comp 2" tires. Start saving up for those coilovers 
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May 6, 2014 04:05
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OK, trouble in paradise: I bought the car with this blemish thinking it would be an easy sand and blend paint job:  The PO told me that it was a parking lot incident - closer inspection suggests it was previously repaired and they didn't prep right, causing the repaired paint to flake off. It's on the bumpercover pretty thick. I took it around for quotes today and most shops strongly recommended starting with a new bumpercover - they said trying to strip the paint would just gently caress up the bumpercover and add waves/rippling effects from uneven sanding. It would also cost a lot in labor. I asked about doing the sanding myself and bringing it in; they said they'd be open to it, but were skeptical - since they didn't trust their own employees to do a good job, I'm guessing I wouldn't be able to do any better. MAACO and one indy shop didn't mention replacing the bumper, but, well, MAACO. If I go with the "let's do the job right" guys, the aftermarket bumpercover replacement clocked in at around $430 for the part. The cheapest I could get the job done would be low $700s total - there's a shop here that hosed up a previous job for me and offered me a discount as a goodwill gesture. Most other places quote low $900s. They understandably didn't recommend pulling a used bumpercover because it's a plastic part and most of them are full of rock chips. So, the way I see it, I have three options: 1) Try to strip the paint on my existing bumpercover, something that the pros didn't think they themselves could do a good job on, and I have no experience with (likely fail), then send it in for paint 2) Try to find a cheaper bumpercover replacment - I don't have access to bodyshop parts channels, but $430 seems really steep. I'm hoping I could do better but don't really know where to look. Can you guys help me out on this? 3) Rig my front plate mount so it covers the bad spot. It connects down load under the bumpercover, here:  Maybe I could find one with adjustable arms/brackets so I could position the plate over the bad spot. Any suggestions here? blk fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 05:13
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I've had existing bumper covers stripped and repainted a bunch of times on non-Miatas. I'm hoping it's the same for Miatas since I just picked up a $50 NA bumper cover from AZ to replace my rashed and dented 97 one. $430 sounds expensive - that's more than an Impreza bumper from a dealership here, and that's at obscene Subaru parts markup. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:23 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 05:20
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I'd buy the matching spray paint from Mazda, prep and shoot it best you can and just drive it for now. Maybe you could get a bumper from a yard/ebay in good condition, there are shitloads of red NAs out there. If you can afford it though, have it done right. Sorry about the front plate too, those suck rear end.
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May 6, 2014 05:54
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Spray it red to cover it for now and, like leica said, troll eBay and the forums and find someone that has a take-off part. They're around and red is super-common and the chances of a straight match are pretty good.
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May 6, 2014 11:45
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EVERYWHERE 
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Take off the front tie down hooks. Wait for a used cover in the right color to show up. If you needed one in blue I'd sell you my extra one.
craig588 fucked around with this message at 11:52 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 11:49
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MattD1zzl3 posted:gobble gobble one of us, one of us. Going to leave it as-is for a little while. My brother-in-law had the best line so far, "Dropping tops, dropping panties."
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May 6, 2014 11:54
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Nocheez posted:Going to leave it as-is for a little while. My brother-in-law had the best line so far, "Dropping tops, dropping panties." If your new boyfriend has a thing for women's underwear he'll be right 
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May 6, 2014 12:10
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I'd just troll Craigslist until someone was parting out a red NA and buy the bumper cover off them. Shame you don't live here. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ptd/4419689292.html
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May 6, 2014 14:46
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With zero experience I went from this: to this:  for about $80 in paint and supplies, together with a little air compressor and a cheap-rear end spray gun. It's not perfect (far too light on the clearcoat) but it's better than it was. Still looks fine 18 months later -- if anything, a little better, as I think the sun has bleached it a touch and evened out the color. While I'm posting pics, someone please take this off my hands. I'm fed up with looking at it.  Racing Beat catback with presilencer. I have a RB intake and filter, too. Would make a nice package for upgrading a stock NA. I am to the point where I will contemplate even the most insulting of lowball offers, especially if you want the whole lot.
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May 6, 2014 14:51
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PM'd you
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May 6, 2014 15:13
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leica posted:I'd buy the matching spray paint from Mazda, prep and shoot it best you can and just drive it for now. Maybe you could get a bumper from a yard/ebay in good condition, there are shitloads of red NAs out there. Oh, there's nothing wrong with the front plate, I'm just wondering if I can move it up and to the side to cover the paint issues. FatCow posted:I'd just troll Craigslist until someone was parting out a red NA and buy the bumper cover off them. I've been thinking the same thing, although the paint on the car is so mint it will be hard to match. I guess I need to figure out what my plans for the car are - if I fix it correctly and keep up the detailing during my ownership, I could resell it as a mint example, although since its not an M edition and doesn't have an LSD, I don't know how much money I'd get for it - $5k would be nice. I could do a sloppy repair or Maaco it and hope it holds up until I sell the car, or just swap a junkyard bumper and hope no one notices. http://m.ebay.com/itm/251523094614?nav=SEARCH Do we know any goons in Cincinatti?
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May 6, 2014 17:07
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This is what I meant when I was talking about moving the plate to cover the spot I would need to find a funny adjustable mounting frame though; the way it is now is obviously unstable.
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May 7, 2014 01:01
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Make a custom sticker copy of the plate and put it on that spot at a hellaflush angle? edit: or this, but with plate mounted on top instead http://garagestar.com/shop/type2_license_plate_bracket.html edit2: car bra iv46vi fucked around with this message at 01:22 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 01:19
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Pull up the left headlamp lid.
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May 7, 2014 01:20
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iv46vi posted:Make a custom sticker copy of the plate and put it on that spot at a hellaflush angle? I had the sticker idea (Euro sticker would work even better), but I'm pretty sure I'd get cited for it in this state. Ohio is the only state I know of where you can get away with this.
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May 7, 2014 01:38
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 I live a couple blocks from the hardware store...how terrible does this look?
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May 7, 2014 02:12
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Looks like poo poo. Front plates on sports cars always look bad no matter where you put them.
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May 7, 2014 02:38
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I suggest 10" or 14" depending on how comfortable you are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221326429368 vintage JDM edition: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251460743073 Is full bumper vinyl cover possible in that colour? iv46vi fucked around with this message at 03:12 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 03:10
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Center mount license with the Hello Kitty drift bandage covering the damage, tell the automotive world that you enjoy your vehicle and embrace it's flaws.
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May 7, 2014 05:02
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I had mounted mine inside the grill with zipties. It looks good, but might not be so great to the radiator. Never had any cooling issues but that's maybe just my experience.
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May 7, 2014 16:52
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Cut some slits around the lettering to allow more airflow.
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May 7, 2014 18:59
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:I had mounted mine inside the grill with zipties. It looks good, but might not be so great to the radiator. Never had any cooling issues but that's maybe just my experience. Did you have any cop issues though? I guess it's technically there, but sadly I don't think something like this would fly here.
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May 7, 2014 20:17
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mobby_6kl posted:Did you have any cop issues though? I guess it's technically there, but sadly I don't think something like this would fly here. What states are you guys in? I've been driving without front plates of any type now for more than 5 years in a state where they are legally required, and even during the 3 times I've been pulled over the lack of a front plate has never, ever been mentioned. I have the plate in my garage in case I ever do get a fix-it ticket and have to slap it on there.
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May 7, 2014 20:23
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Some outfit makes a front plate holder that utilizes the screw holes that the transit teeth occupied. $25 iirc. It also has hinges so it swings up freely when pushed but without having someone in front of me I really don't know how fast you have to go to have it swing up out of the way and am considering velcro or something to keep it out of the way when I'm pushing the car hard. E: My NA's thermostat does hit the 1:00 position at those times so it worries me a little. There's also a motorized version but it's pricey. E2: $29 http://www.thompson-automotive.com/Disappearing_plate.html
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May 7, 2014 20:24
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mobby_6kl posted:Did you have any cop issues though? I guess it's technically there, but sadly I don't think something like this would fly here. I've never been pulled over for it, however I did get pulled over while driving my brother's RX8 that he took the front plate off and put in the windshield. I claimed someone backed into his car and broke the plastic mount and a new one was on it's way from Mazda in Japan. Ontario here by the way.
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May 7, 2014 20:39
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opengl128 posted:Installed the replacement CAS this afternoon (thanks again Phone), along with a new CAS O Ring (I have 9 more if anyone needs one), and a new valve cover gasket since it needed one anyway and having the VC off makes the CAS a million times easier. Ran beautifully for about 10 minutes, then the same exact symptoms. Pretty much has to be coil pack at this point right? Replaced the coil pack today, along with plug wires for good measure.  Smooth as glass now. Set the timing, and took it out for a couple hours without issue. I really need to rip that drat buzzer out.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivMjsqlOzGA
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May 7, 2014 21:58
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Feel underneath the dash for the plug that is vibrating and pull it. 30 second fix.
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May 7, 2014 22:00
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Better yet, rewire it so it only beeps when the lights are left on. Yes, I'm the idiot who occasionally forgets to turn off the pop up lights.
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May 7, 2014 22:16
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I have a 95 and it has developed an oil leak. I've replaced the CAS o-ring before. I just did the oil too. I looked at those places already, but they don't seem to be leaking. I took this picture while looking under the car. Would anyone know or have an idea where the leak might be coming from if its dripping down from the skid plate? For reference, the drain plug is to the left of it. If it's a poo poo picture, I can get another one.  I am unable to work on it now that I've moved to an apartment. Any of you so cal goons know a good place to take it around Orange County?
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May 8, 2014 02:18
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Sten Freak posted:Some outfit makes a front plate holder that utilizes the screw holes that the transit teeth occupied. $25 iirc. It also has hinges so it swings up freely when pushed but without having someone in front of me I really don't know how fast you have to go to have it swing up out of the way and am considering velcro or something to keep it out of the way when I'm pushing the car hard. E: My NA's thermostat does hit the 1:00 position at those times so it worries me a little. That disappearing plate idea seems awesome in theory but I feel as if you'd still be getting pulled over now and then for it.
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May 8, 2014 02:34
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oh rly posted:I have a 95 and it has developed an oil leak. I've replaced the CAS o-ring before. I just did the oil too. I looked at those places already, but they don't seem to be leaking. Total shot in the dark, but that pattern looks like it may be the oil pan itself
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May 8, 2014 02:59
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opengl128 posted:Total shot in the dark, but that pattern looks like it may be the oil pan itself The pattern looks like that because the car isn't in the same place each night. The ones in front are from the weekend. I could very easily be wrong though.
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May 8, 2014 03:18
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If it's more on the pass side and you had an oil job done could be as easy as loose oil filter. Double check it and the drain plug, then remove the under tray and see if you can see the source better without it.
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May 8, 2014 03:36
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Front main seal is my guess. Feel around under the pulley and if it comes up wet, well, there ya go. Getcha a timing belt/water pump kit and have at!
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May 8, 2014 03:43
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