|
Zapping batteries back to life with a welder kinda scares the poo poo out of me, with the prospect of exploding, hot, charged battery acid and all that. I suppose with the right protective gear this might be safe, but I imagine it has mostly been done by drunk dudes in their garage.
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 14:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 15:27 |
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Zapping batteries back to life with a welder kinda scares the poo poo out of me, with the prospect of exploding, hot, charged battery acid and all that. I suppose with the right protective gear this might be safe, but I imagine it has mostly been done by drunk dudes in their garage. Hey now I was in my front room.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 15:23
|
|
|
So it seems I need a new conduit finder. My current one decided that it didn't need to tell me about the copper hot water line that I drilled through a couple of hours ago. It seemed to be half decent at finding rebar hidden in the concrete, but aparently it doesn't find water lines. From what I've heard the B&D ones are rubbish, so I'm left with the choice of either Bosch or Stanley or some off-brand from the hardware store. Does anyone here have experience with the Bosch PMD 7 or PMD 10, or the Stanley Intellisense? Or is a stud/conduit detector just a stud/conduit detector and it doesn't matter whether I splurge 25 on a decent brand versus a 10 euro unit from Skandia or Ferm?
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 15:55
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure they're all designed by people who were too bad at engineering to design landmine detectors, so you're pretty much just hosed. Drills make fairly accurate cable/stud/pipe detectors, however. Just like backhoes make excellent buried cable/gas line/water main locators.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 16:14
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Zapping batteries back to life with a welder kinda scares the poo poo out of me, with the prospect of exploding, hot, charged battery acid and all that. I suppose with the right protective gear this might be safe, but I imagine it has mostly been done by drunk dudes in their garage. Nah, with dry batteries in a plastic box it's perfectly safe (well, as safe as zapping anything with a welder can be). There's no venting of gas. I may have accidentally swapped the polarity in the first try (explains the one that didn't come back, I guess). It does have to be a DC machine, and you might want to pull the wire out if it's a MIG.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 16:04
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
Rumor has it the active ingredient in Evaporust is Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, and something to make it more of a base. I'm thinking aobut doing some more reading and buying some from http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search?interface=All&term=edta&N=0&mode=match%20partialmax&focus=product&lang=en®ion=US Internet folks posit it will remove about its weight in rust, more or less. No clue if it is more or less cost effective than just buying Evaporust,but it is more awesome.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 17:13
|
|
|
Speaking of rust removal:thespaceinvader posted:So, my dad donated to the cause this lovely little Stanley block plane - probably not antique but closing on it - a single-iron one which he got from his dad. But unfortunately, at some point a storm got into his shed and left it rusted to hell; both the iron and the sole are pretty screwed up, and it's not really in a usable condition right now.   I didn't go anywhere near as far as I could have but that's the result of probably 3 hours of increasing grits of wet/dry paper. It's good enough to be functional, which is what concerns me - it needs a proper sharpen though, which I'll do on the bench grinder at woodworking class.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 14:38
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:...3 hours of increasing grits of wet/dry paper. Wow, that's a long time. Is it flat?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:01
|
|
|
Pretty flat. I was trying to get rid of some discolouration and scratches in the metal where use and rust had pitted it. It feels really smooth, but you can still see some scratches around the mouth and some discolouration in the middle and at the back of the sole. Works nicely though. It was a main working on the sides though; for that I think I'd've been better with a surface with some give, because they're not flat. I could still do with giving it some more time; the rust is already starting to come back where some of the discolouration is D: E: I was hoping initially for a mirror finish; right now I'm hoping just to keep it from getting worse again. I probably should oil it or something?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:15
|
|
|
Oil will help. I need drill bits, wood and metal. I'm in the uk and up until now I've just bought cheap ones and hated them. Anyone got brands etc to recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:29
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Oil will help. DeWalt from Screwfix would probably be my go-to and they're often going cheap in the daily deal, so it's worth waiting a little while if you can - otherwise I've a set from Homebase of basic Black&Decker ones that are doing me fine for now, although the countersink is going dull pretty quickly.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 23:41
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:E: I was hoping initially for a mirror finish; right now I'm hoping just to keep it from getting worse again. I probably should oil it or something? Somewhere in the depths of the blacksmithing/metalworking thread, AbsentMindedWelder made a great post about using anhydrous lanolin as a rust inhibitor. I couldn't find it here, of course, but I did manage to find it on another forum. I'm going to be trying it out myself very soon, because now that spring is here, the humidity in my basement workshop will be at roughly 172% and keeping all the tools clean is almost a full-time job in itself. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 01:44 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 01:41
|
|
|
My Grizzly Polar Bear table saw arrived, and I took an hour today to get it assembled (really easy). Have to wire up some 220 to get the sucker running, but after that I'll do a trip report. Funny thing was I had it delivered to a friend's house as Amazon would not deliver to my backwoods town. The unit came on one pallet, all 425lbs of it. This sort of freaked me out because, how the hell am I going to get 425lbs a foot off the ground into the back of the trailer, even if it had a ramp? I showed up with a trailer (with a ramp) two large chains, two come-alongs (ratcheting pulleys) some plywood, some prybars, some heavy duty nylon rope, some rollers to put under it, and some 6' 2x4's for leverage. Backed the trailer up to it, and walked it on by hand without touching a single tool. Took all of 10 seconds.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 03:27
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Somewhere in the depths of the blacksmithing/metalworking thread, AbsentMindedWelder made a great post about using anhydrous lanolin as a rust inhibitor. I couldn't find it here, of course, but I did manage to find it on another forum. I'm going to be trying it out myself very soon, because now that spring is here, the humidity in my basement workshop will be at roughly 172% and keeping all the tools clean is almost a full-time job in itself. i tried that (5 parts atf, 1 part lanolin because i didn't have any mineral spirits) and it works great but it makes stuff sticky. I wouldn't use it for stuff you touch. use paste wax on plane bodies and table saw tops and stuff, seems to work ok.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 03:58
|
|
|
If you want to keep your tools rust free and not have to worry about them being sticky or accidentally staining your wood, check this stuff out. Spray on, let sit for 5 minutes wipe off and you're good for a few months. I use this stuff and have never seen rust appear on any of the metal it has been applied to, and most of my stuff spends its time in a garage that loves to get damp due to the cement pad in it. Bonus is that this stuff smells like bubble gum.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 05:13
|
|
|
Similarly, I've been using this stuff. I don't know that it does a ton to protect from rust, but corrosion prevention is listed as one of its features, and it's worked well for me so far: http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399868163&sr=8-1&keywords=top-cote Looks like they just changed the can/product name, I still have a couple of the old-style brown cans. Don't know if the new can is formulated any differently. And, it specifically won't stain woods and whatnot, as opposed to, say, oils. I put it on my table saw, bandsaw, my jointer, the bed on my planer, the tool rest on my lathe, the surface of my planes, and I like to give a good squirt down my drawers before a long run. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:19 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 05:17
|
|
|
I've used TopCote, it works great and is slick but when I ran out I switched to Johnson's Paste Wax and it also works very well.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 07:49
|
|
|
What's the style of the brown bit on top called as opposed to the smaller silvery bit beneath it? The brown bit with the narrow section fits in my impact driver without falling out, whereas the other one will come out with gravity or even slightly too much friction from whatever it's driving. Apart from that difference they are both 1/4" hex bits.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 12:42
|
|
|
Delivery McGee posted:Nah, with dry batteries in a plastic box it's perfectly safe (well, as safe as zapping anything with a welder can be). There's no venting of gas. I may have accidentally swapped the polarity in the first try (explains the one that didn't come back, I guess). If I don't have a welder is there something else I can that doesn't involve a kite and some keys? I feel like this could be a chance to acquire some cheap cordless tools, or try and revive my current one (some poo poo cotech or something). Also looking for a chisel set, is this a kind of tool I can buy cheaply at our local harbour freight equivalents, or should I look for some particular band? I don't mind buying used or even antique if it's good value for money, I might prefer that even. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:48 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 12:46
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:If I don't have a welder is there something else I can that doesn't involve a kite and some keys? I feel like this could be a chance to acquire some cheap cordless tools, or try and revive my current one (some poo poo cotech or something). I picked up some Narex chisels and have been pleased. Needs an initial sharpending, but good value for the $40.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 13:10
|
|
|
~Coxy posted:What's the style of the brown bit on top called as opposed to the smaller silvery bit beneath it? I don't know what its official name may be but that's just a relatively standard 1/4" quick-release design, used by drat near everyone. You shouldn't have any trouble finding almost any bit ever with that sort of quick release.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 13:55
|
|
|
Speaking of rust prevention, I decided I was tired of using our rusty framing square and dunked it in Evaporust for the weekend. Sorry, I forgot a before picture, but it was incredibly rusty, you could barely read the numbers. 24 hours in:  48 hours in:  I did pull it out twice and lightly wipe it down with a scotchbrite pad. The solution we are using is highly diluted, so it takes longer. I'm still super happy with the outcome.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 19:09
|
|
|
Blistex posted:If you want to keep your tools rust free and not have to worry about them being sticky or accidentally staining your wood, check this stuff out. Good luck getting that in the UK I guess? What would it be sold as here, I wonder... I'll work something out, anyway. Either way, I'm totally stoked on a different note because on Wednesday I'm going to spend about a third of my recent work bonus here: http://www.workshopheaven.com/ - basically hand tool porn.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 19:49
|
|
|
~Coxy posted:What's the style of the brown bit on top called as opposed to the smaller silvery bit beneath it? If you are talking about the way the chuck holds them, the top is a ball-detent and the bottom is wire-detent.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 00:24
|
|
|
Thanks, that was really what I was after. Wanted to know the correct terminology so I can buy the right thing in future. Of course I'll need to get an adaptor anyway as that bottom one is one of a kind. 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 01:33
|
|
|
~Coxy posted:Thanks, that was really what I was after. For the sake of curiosity, what makes it one of a kind? Some kind of security key for special screws?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 02:49
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:Good luck getting that in the UK I guess? Possibly "243.84 Complete Knife Treatment"?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 04:23
|
|
|
iForge posted:For the sake of curiosity, what makes it one of a kind? Some kind of security key for special screws? One of a kind is a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's a weird square drive for drum kits that I had to pay 12 goddamn bucks for in a music store because the hardware stores don't have anything that will fit.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 04:41
|
|
|
You got a grinder? I bet you could convert it.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 05:17
|
|
|
Anyone tried buying ball bearings from china, like Ali express? It looks tempting because even the same china made stuff in the HF analogue of choice costs like 15 euros for a small set, while they sell them for less than a dollar a piece on AliExpress for instance.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 06:09
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:You got a grinder? I bet you could convert it. I'd be game to try it except that buying a $7 adaptor that will be handy to have anyway is probably smarter than risking $12.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 06:55
|
|
|
Is this a good price for an electric motor? It's 3-phase induction motor (1455rpm) and a whopping 11kw or 14hp, 60 euro bucks: I was thinking I am gonna build myself a band saw and while it won't be happening this year I think, I decided to start scrounging components. I think 14hp is a bit overkill but eh why not? Seller says it's in fine shape, but if it ever breaks it should be easy to fix right? I understand these things are usually really drat sturdy, 3-phase variants especially so.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 07:29
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I think 14hp is a bit overkill but eh why not? For perspective, our 12" Craftsman has a 1/2 hp motor on it. I sometimes wish it had a 3/4 or 1 horse. Putting 14 hp on something like that would be a waste of money. Even if you could transmit all 14 horses to the saw, which you can see takes 3 v-belts, it would take an enormous throat to use that much power. Our 36" portable sawmill has a 27 hp gas engine, and I've seen this model converted to electric, and it runs fine with 20 hp. I'm sure you can find a smaller motor for the cost of the extra electricity you're going to need to run that motor.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 13:36
|
|
|
Yeah I realized it was pretty dumb. I could do with 2HP I think as I wanna cut up logs into lumber eventually and IIRC the guy whos plans I am getting used his as a sawmill and had only a 1 or 1.5HP motor.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2014 13:51
|
|
|
One Legged Ninja posted:For perspective, our 12" Craftsman has a 1/2 hp motor on it. I sometimes wish it had a 3/4 or 1 horse. Putting 14 hp on something like that would be a waste of money. Even if you could transmit all 14 horses to the saw, which you can see takes 3 v-belts, it would take an enormous throat to use that much power. Our 36" portable sawmill has a 27 hp gas engine, and I've seen this model converted to electric, and it runs fine with 20 hp. I'm sure you can find a smaller motor for the cost of the extra electricity you're going to need to run that motor. Well for what it's worth I can promise that plugged into a wall outlet, even 220, you can't get 14hp. 14hp is ~10kW, or about 100A of 120V.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2014 02:14
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Is this a good price for an electric motor? It's 3-phase induction motor (1455rpm) and a whopping 11kw or 14hp, 60 euro bucks: Umm, do you even have 3 phase power to run it?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2014 02:28
|
|
|
You guys are thinking small. Set up an overhead jackshaft system and run everything off it.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2014 03:17
|
|
|
~Coxy posted:I'd be game to try it except that buying a $7 adaptor that will be handy to have anyway is probably smarter than risking $12. If you aren't putting a lot of torque on it, a 12-point socket will fit a square bolt.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2014 03:41
|
|
|
Or maybe get one of those universal dealios with all the spring-loaded pins inside.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2014 03:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 15:27 |
|
|
kid sinister posted:Umm, do you even have 3 phase power to run it? I actually do, and all my 1-phase is 230v, yay european electricity systems. Gonna pass on it anyway though.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2014 04:29
|
|