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Safety Dance posted:Unrelated, but I can't imagine having a 20 mile round trip commute, much less a 60 mile commute. I've found that my quality of life is best when I have somewhere between a 1 and 3 mile commute -- around 15 minutes on a good day. How do people do it? Man I woulda thought you'd understand being from GA! Mine's like ~50 miles a day just from alpharetta to midtown atlanta
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May 6, 2014 19:18
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I worked on North Ave and lived near Emory before I moved. I had coworkers who commuted in from Alpharetta, but I just wouldn't be able to do it.
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May 6, 2014 19:23
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Safety Dance posted:Unrelated, but I can't imagine having a 20 mile round trip commute, much less a 60 mile commute. I've found that my quality of life is best when I have somewhere between a 1 and 3 mile commute -- around 15 minutes on a good day. How do people do it? Most of us do it because we're not rich enough to live next to jobs, and we can't afford to live off minimum wage as a gas station attendant  e: It depends on what you do for a living, but if your work involves something that's in a major city you can either commute, or pay several hundred (at least) more a month in rent. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 21:47
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Is there an agreed-upon Best DRZ SM Seat(tm)? I've read horrendous things about the Suzuki gel seat, and the slippery/hard Corbin. I've read the Seat Concepts seat is a little better, but the best reviews are for the Renazco and the Rick Mayer. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and getting the Rick Mayer http://www.rickmayercycle.com/
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May 6, 2014 21:54
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I know that Renazco is good and also very expensive. I've not heard of Rick Mayer, but I bet they're also good. If you want to spend the money, go for it! I had a Seat Concepts seat on my Husqvarna, and I was well pleased with it.
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May 6, 2014 21:58
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Safety Dance posted:Unrelated, but I can't imagine having a 20 mile round trip commute, much less a 60 mile commute. I've found that my quality of life is best when I have somewhere between a 1 and 3 mile commute -- around 15 minutes on a good day. How do people do it? I have a 20 mile round trip commute and it only takes me 10~15 mins each way depending on traffic. I used to have a 2 mile commute and I always felt like i was just putting unnecessary cold wear on my bike when I used it to go to work.
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May 6, 2014 21:58
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Safety Dance posted:Unrelated, but I can't imagine having a 20 mile round trip commute, much less a 60 mile commute. I've found that my quality of life is best when I have somewhere between a 1 and 3 mile commute -- around 15 minutes on a good day. How do people do it? Find routes that are fun to ride even if they take a little longer. Like echomadman said, I actually found a super short commute not to be the best on the motorcycle. I recently went from a ten minute commute to about 40, and as far as riding is concerned lie it more. I felt like I was spending more time putting on and taking off gear than the actual ride for the short one. The longer one gives me time to decompress from the work day as well. Nothing will beat when I lived about 3 blocks from my job and could walk there in 5 minutes though.
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May 6, 2014 22:05
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I once lived across the street from my workplace. It was way too close -- I need a little bit of distance to mentally separate the places in my mind.
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May 6, 2014 22:08
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The bike will be fine. I personally dont mind 5-speed bikes on the highway, and the DRZ likes to rev anyway. Learn to use the wind blast to hold yourself up a bit and take weight off your arms and wrists. Dont go into full tuck idiot mode. If you're not comfortable with standing up at freeway speed, either get a different seat, or get comfortable standing up, because thats a lifesaver once your rear end starts to hurt. I mean, I did a 30 mile round trip plus fun riding and poo poo on an RD250 for a few months and never had an issue. So, the comfort factor doesn't bother me. I was more just wondering how the bikes are at 65-80mph, so this actually helps a lot. I don't mind wringing a bike out, I just like to know its not gonna pull an engine bukkake on me. I get back to the state's in three days, and I'm seeing quite a few for sale in FL for 3-4K, with all the basic mods done. All the stock ones are still like 7000, and 2013 or better.
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May 6, 2014 23:22
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epalm posted:Is there an agreed-upon Best DRZ SM Seat(tm)? Seat Concepts Low 2.0. For my fellow FCR-39MX equipped DRZ owners, here is an AP screw protip that I discovered today that I should have known about. 
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May 7, 2014 00:26
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iwentdoodie posted:I mean, I did a 30 mile round trip plus fun riding and poo poo on an RD250 for a few months and never had an issue. It's not particularly stressed at 60 with stock gearing. 80 is pushing it a bit, but the bike tops out at 105. Keep it well oiled?
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May 7, 2014 01:00
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iwentdoodie posted:
With any single on the highway, check the oil often, as they like to consume a bit of it at highway speeds. Other than that, it will be fine. Yerok posted:For my fellow FCR-39MX equipped DRZ owners, here is an AP screw protip that I discovered today that I should have known about.  care to explain?
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May 7, 2014 02:47
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So that's the digital caliper Harbor Freight ripped off. I guess he's saying he was using a ruler or something to measure that before realizing a caliper was a better idea?
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May 7, 2014 03:11
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It's the recommended baseline for dialing in the AP timing on an FCR-MX carb. 2.75 mm plus or minus a half turn or so. That's straight off the James Dean jetting website.
Yerok fucked around with this message at 06:37 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 04:51
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Yerok posted:It's the recommended baseline for dialing in the AP timing on an FCR-MX carb. 2.75 mm plus or minus a half turn or so. That's straight off the James Dean jetting website. Hmm, I'll have to check mine, I suspect its not where it should be, as I bought my FCR in the middle of "Eddie Sisneros falls into the core of the earth" time at Thumpertalk.
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May 7, 2014 13:25
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I really wish I could get in touch with Sisneros. If only the god of DRZ jetting would smile upon me.
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May 7, 2014 16:47
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You wont, he has basically abandoned everyone. Thumpertalk forum members in general should be able to help though.
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May 7, 2014 17:41
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Yerok posted:I really wish I could get in touch with Sisneros. If only the god of DRZ jetting would smile upon me. Jim Silly-Balls posted:You wont, he has basically abandoned everyone. Thumpertalk forum members in general should be able to help though. Who was this guy?
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May 7, 2014 17:49
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Basically the jetting god over at thumpertalk. Worked on all manner of bikes, but specialized in DRZ's. He was known for building crazy high HP DRZ's that werent time bombs, and shipping out flatslide carbs that were perfectly jetted for your bike/mods/location. Some time last year he basically stopped giving a poo poo, but still accepting money. When I ordered my FCR I had to bug the poo poo out of him to get it, and when I did it wasnt jetted even close to what I needed. Nowadays people are struggling to even get him to talk to them let alone ship stuff. Its here if you want to read idiotic internet drama. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1077458-eddie-sisneros-is-a-scam-artist-sisneros-speed-works-and-now-steel-cycles/#!Klasp Too bad, really, as he helpded immensely in getting to where we are in the world of DRZ performance.
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May 7, 2014 17:55
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Is there some trick to bleeding the front brakes on the DRZ that I'm missing? I installed a braided front brake line and tried to bleed it the normal way (squeeze/open/close/repeat) but was left with a ton of air in the line, I could squeeze the brakes to the bar and only leisurely slow down at 30 kph. I figured maybe air was getting trapped in the top of the loop as the line goes up/over/down to the brakes. I took the caliper off and hung it from the rails for my garage door so that there was a straight diagonal shot from the MC to the caliper, the bleed screw was facing upwards and had a piece of tubing running up then down into a bottle. I'd give the brakes a few pumps then use a piece of bungee cord to hold them in place, open the bleed screw, close it again and repeat a dozen+ times until there was absolutely no hint of air in the fluid coming out. Just took the bike out for a test run and the brakes are super spongy, the lever still essentially touches the bar and the bike is still coasting to a stop. What am I missing  No sign of leaks or anything and I made sure to keep the MC topped up between each squeeze.
Niven fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 21:38
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Almost-related: A nearby shop slapped a fresh set of Pilot Powers on my DRZ sumo, and now the brakes are...weaker. I don't know if spongy is the right term, but I need to squeeze harder to get the same effect as before. As far as I can tell the lever doesn't come any closer to the bar when I squeeze it.
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May 8, 2014 21:59
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Try bleeding the banjo bolts for trapped air. You're probably reintroducing air at some point in the process somehow though.
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May 8, 2014 22:29
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Mine took a whole to get bled too, unless your seals are messed up there has to be air trapped in there somewhere
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May 9, 2014 00:22
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Z3n posted:Try bleeding the banjo bolts for trapped air. You're probably reintroducing air at some point in the process somehow though. I suspect this was it, I tried bleeding it the traditional way again once everything was bolted back in place and a few bubbles appeared in the master cylinder. I'm guessing some air was trapped in a banjo bolt/fitting that was oriented just right (or wrong). Can't wait to try it out in the morning.
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May 9, 2014 01:25
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I zip-tied my front brake lever down overnight to keep the system pressurized, and the next morning, all of the stubborn air was magically gone.
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May 9, 2014 02:01
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I question the efficacy of that method.
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May 9, 2014 02:09
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epalm posted:Almost-related: A nearby shop slapped a fresh set of Pilot Powers on my DRZ sumo, and now the brakes are...weaker. I don't know if spongy is the right term, but I need to squeeze harder to get the same effect as before. As far as I can tell the lever doesn't come any closer to the bar when I squeeze it. Meanwhile I got some pilot powers and the shop might have hosed up my rim New wheel bearings will be in the mail tomorrow. I'll replace all that this weekend and see if that helps (doubt it), then take my wheels to a different shop if I have to.
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May 9, 2014 02:12
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Safety Dance posted:I question the efficacy of that method. If you're frustrating and quitting for the night anyway, what's the harm? Maybe the air found a path out that brake fluid couldn't fit through? I'm no scientist.
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May 9, 2014 02:18
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Niven posted:Is there some trick to bleeding the front brakes on the DRZ that I'm missing? I installed a braided front brake line and tried to bleed it the normal way (squeeze/open/close/repeat) but was left with a ton of air in the line, I could squeeze the brakes to the bar and only leisurely slow down at 30 kph. I figured maybe air was getting trapped in the top of the loop as the line goes up/over/down to the brakes. Bleed the top and bottom banjo. I always spend like an hour on new lines doing it the regular way before remembering to try to banjos and that's always the problem.
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May 9, 2014 03:03
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eddiewalker posted:If you're frustrating and quitting for the night anyway, what's the harm? Maybe the air found a path out that brake fluid couldn't fit through? I'm no scientist. Waving a few chicken bones for a voodoo fix is always less optimal than actually correctly diagnosing what the problem was actually caused by and fixing it properly. What if all you did was band-aid the problem and mask the actual cause, which may turn out to be something like a badly installed seal that might at some later date fail completely, possibly while you're riding the bike and in dire need of functional brakes.
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May 9, 2014 03:10
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I think chicken bones and prayers might be hyperbolic. It's advice I got when I was having trouble bleeding the clutch on my car. Maybe on these very forums. I think the idea was that by mashing and bleeding and swearing, I'd overworked the air into lots of small, more stubborn bubbles stuck in every nook. Maybe the pressure helped reform one big bubble that popped out the bleeder in one shot the next day? I dunno.
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May 9, 2014 03:28
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I've used the zip tied lever overnight to great effect several times. Its not voodoo.
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May 9, 2014 03:35
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DRZ bros, I got my Zeta bends in today and I'll be installing them over the weekend. Do these things plug straight into the bar ends or am I gonna have to do some messing around to get it to fit right? Also drat they're way bigger than I thought they would be
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May 9, 2014 04:27
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Spiffness posted:I've used the zip tied lever overnight to great effect several times. Its not voodoo. "Worked for me once" isn't engineering. I don't trust it. And this is coming from a guy who rebuilt a broken clutch lever out of a length of pipe.
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May 9, 2014 04:48
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Razzled posted:DRZ bros, I got my Zeta bends in today and I'll be installing them over the weekend. Do these things plug straight into the bar ends or am I gonna have to do some messing around to get it to fit right? Handguards? They go into the bar ends with a little adapter thing they come with. It should have instructions.
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May 9, 2014 04:55
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Rename thread to DRZ chat 
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May 9, 2014 05:05
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DRZ hivemind
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May 9, 2014 05:24
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Safety Dance posted:"Worked for me once" isn't engineering. I don't trust it. And this is coming from a guy who rebuilt a broken clutch lever out of a length of pipe. Mate, specifically used the word 'several' there. A proper bleed is always step one but I've had stubborn systems not want to get that last air out. Overnight with a zip tie can and does work. It's not a loving magnet in a wrist strap exactly is it.
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May 9, 2014 05:25
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When you pull the lever you pressurize the fluid. This compresses any bubbles (a lot), which reduces the friction from them moving through the fluid, so they move more easily. They still don't move all that fast, though, so giving them time helps - easiest to tie it off and come back in the AM.
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May 9, 2014 05:58
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Marxalot posted:Handguards? They go into the bar ends with a little adapter thing they come with. It should have instructions. You might have to cut off the end of the throttle tube
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May 9, 2014 15:25
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