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jamal posted:I also really like the stoptech pad/centric rotor combo but I usually can't compete with amazon and rockauto etc pricing which is a little annoying. That being said, according to Amazon there are two Stoptech candidates- 309.10010 and 309.09290. The latter are cheaper.
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May 7, 2014 04:36
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721 - 02 front 929 - 03-05, 08+ front 647/1182 - 4-pot front 1001 - brembo front 770 - 02-03 rear 1004 - 03-07 rear 461 - 2-pot rear 1114 - 08+ rear 961 - brembo rear I can get you a quote anyhow.
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May 7, 2014 04:44
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Ended up ordering from rockauto before I saw the post, sorry dawg.  Thanks for the part numbers though, RA had it right too which is comforting.
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May 7, 2014 04:54
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jamal posted:I'm partial to the AEM intakes. You probably won't see a huge difference switching from the spt though and since the car is already tuned for what you have I would leave it. Do AEM intakes (or any intake for that matter) require a tune if I've not bothered doing anything significant with exhaust? I just like what it does to the sound Does that make me a bad person?
Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 06:42 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 06:38
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Uhhh, sometimes/maybe? I don't really trust the stock tune on the stock intake, so I don't feel comfortable suggesting intakes without a tune no matter what kind they.
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May 7, 2014 06:52
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Yeah after doing some reading on a iwsti thread, it seems that the MAF sensor readings are skewed if the geometry of the intake tube changes / widens. Makes sense.
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May 7, 2014 07:20
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Bojanglesworth posted:Just replaced the same wheel bearing that I replaced five thousand miles ago. Hopefully this one holds out a bit longer. Make sure you're tightening the axle nut with a torque wrench to the correct specification.
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May 7, 2014 14:07
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Finally getting around to replacing a sheared off brake pipe. Hope I can wiggle this thing in without having to drop the gas tank. Here goes nothing.
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May 7, 2014 17:19
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Replaced my damaged sidewall tire with a shaved one from Tirerack and they matched tread depth perfectly. The OEM tires are crazy expensive though—wound up being $220 for a single shaved tire. Glad it's fixed though. A year into have the cargo basket and I'm amazed at how useful it's been. It doesn't look that big on top of the car, but it holds long, bulky, awkward packages very well. Normally I'd need to put the seats down and essentially fill the back of the car to bring my full video/light kit anywhere. With the rack, everything fits on top and in the normal cargo area with room to spare.  One issue is that it I've nicked the paint quite a bit and the underlying metal seems to rust super fast. I went over the rack and wirebrush/evaporust-ed off any spots I could find before touching up the paint, but I'm wondering if spray on bed liner might be a better long term option. My main concern would be whether it would make the bars too wide for the kayak saddle clamps.
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May 7, 2014 19:43
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Geirskogul posted:What does Subaru have to meet fleet MPG average standards in the US? Or do they have to comply with that? It'd be cool if they made a new Justy or something, they're doing pretty amazing things with what they have.
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May 7, 2014 20:41
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jamal posted:I don't really trust the stock tune on the stock intake, so I don't feel comfortable suggesting intakes without a tune no matter what kind they. So expanding on this. It's not the first time I've read basically this sentiment, and when I first bought this car a year back I decided I should probably look into getting a 91 octane tune on it since we don't get 93 here in AZ, and AFAIK the stock tune is for 93. Correct me if I'm wrong? I'm most interested in preventing ringland failures. The logic back when I bought it was essentially "you are still under warranty, don't worry about it". But what are people's thoughts on the stock tune vs. an OTS 91 octane tune from a Cobb AP? At some point my car won't be under warranty, would it be a better idea to have put a better tune on it prior to waiting for the warranty to expire? I guess I'm still unclear on what causes the ringland failures (detonation from running lean I gather), and if it's a failure that happens over time, or if it's a sudden thing. I've also ready that OTS tunes are not that great, and it should either be protuned or not at all. Is this true even for somebody like myself who doesn't plan on doing anything beyond a CBE and maybe an intake? Sorry if this retreads previously covered questions. I've honestly looked at NASIOC and IWSTI, but information there is all over the map, and poorly written. It's usually responded with "use the search button" which of course I have. I also just trust information I find in this thread.
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May 7, 2014 20:41
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Tough question. It's likely that Subaru would deny some warranty claims if you get a custom tune. You have to weigh that against anecdotal evidence that the stock tune is too lean.
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May 7, 2014 20:59
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DJ Commie posted:It'd be cool if they made a new Justy or something, they're doing pretty amazing things with what they have. The guys I know who have upgraded from their 06-07 WRXes to '15 WRXes (already a massive coup for Subaru that guys are leaving the 'best' WRX ever made for a newer model) are reporting a full on 1L/100km improvement in fuel economy. Dunno if the stock tune still sucks though.
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May 7, 2014 21:01
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daslog posted:Tough question. It's likely that Subaru would deny some warranty claims if you get a custom tune. You have to weigh that against anecdotal evidence that the stock tune is too lean. Well with the Cobb specifically it's pretty easy to put it back to stock, and I'd probably forgo the intake in general if I felt it could cause warranty claim issues (almost certain it would...). It's more a general question about how the ringland issue manifest itself (over time vs. just happens one day) and whether or not the stock tune, for whatever reason, contributes to that. Would putting a safer 91 octane tune on the car early help prevent future issues? Honestly I'm pretty indifferent about power gains.
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May 7, 2014 21:19
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powderific posted:Replaced my damaged sidewall tire with a shaved one from Tirerack and they matched tread depth perfectly. The OEM tires are crazy expensive though—wound up being $220 for a single shaved tire. Glad it's fixed though. I think I asked you this before, what kind of MPG's are you getting with the basket on? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 21:28 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 21:22
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My mileage in town is usually 24ish. Bear in mind that I have the 5 speed and don't try to drive efficiently. The CVT and a bit more relaxed driving might do better. On the interstate it seems like I do about the same MPG unless I slow down to 65—it feels like the car could use an extra gear. Not sure how much impact the basket has, maybe a mile per gallon or so with my driving habits?
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May 7, 2014 21:39
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powderific posted:My mileage in town is usually 24ish. Bear in mind that I have the 5 speed and don't try to drive efficiently. The CVT and a bit more relaxed driving might do better. On the interstate it seems like I do about the same MPG unless I slow down to 65—it feels like the car could use an extra gear. Not sure how much impact the basket has, maybe a mile per gallon or so with my driving habits? This sounds identical to my 98. 24-ish MPG and a too-short fifth gear. Guess some things don't change 
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May 7, 2014 21:54
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A big part of it comes down to the stock mapping. For emissions purposes, the newer cars run really lean into boost at full throttle. Subaru officially blamed it on running the car to redline, but the car is not going to knock up there like it will at peak torque and lower rpm. When they first came out that wasn't the case. Here's a stock 04 sti on a dyno:  Notice the AFR drops as boost comes in and the torque curve is pretty smooth. Now here's a 2011 sti:  AFR stays at 14:1 as boost comes on, car has to pull timing because of knock, AFR finally drops to a reasonable amount, cars stops knocking, timing goes back in, torque goes back up. Hot temperatures and 91 octane are only going to make this worse, and it's pretty bad for the pistons, which can be called a little too brittle. Here's a stage 1 flash of the same car:  Reasonable AFR and a smooth torque curve (and a shitload more of it). So really, changing out the intake doesn't have anything to do with the root problem, but it could maybe make the problem worse by causing the car to run even more lean as boost comes on. My suggestion would be a leakdown test before considering a reflash and parts like an intake and downpipe. If it has leakage on a cylinder or two (over 7%), bring it into the dealer and say the car burns a lot of oil and idles funny or something, and you might get a new shortblock. Then get a tune, intake, dp, whatever.
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May 7, 2014 22:00
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powderific posted:My mileage in town is usually 24ish. Bear in mind that I have the 5 speed and don't try to drive efficiently. The CVT and a bit more relaxed driving might do better. On the interstate it seems like I do about the same MPG unless I slow down to 65—it feels like the car could use an extra gear. Not sure how much impact the basket has, maybe a mile per gallon or so with my driving habits? I have the '12 Impreza which is mostly the same. I'm getting 25 ish driving the 6 miles to and from work, with the 5 speed, not trying to be efficient. On longer trips, I'm around 30-32 mpg. With just a set of Yakima round crossbars, it cuts me down to about 28 mpg. I want to be that guy with roof baskets and lights all over the place, but then MY MPGS. And washing it is a pain I'm sure. With the crossbars and a fairing, at highway speeds it's louder than sitting in an airplane. Maybe if I drop the headliner and put some sound deadening on the roof. I don't know. I'd only use it 3 or 4 times a year really. But I like the idea.
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May 7, 2014 22:13
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jamal posted:
Holy poo poo. Yeah I'm mostly interested in keeping things like this from happening. It can't be healthy long term. Are Stage 1 OTS flashes from Cobb considered pretty reliable?
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May 7, 2014 22:26
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Yeah, the only downside is the $600 accessport which I don't sell. Then you still have to pay for custom tuning if you decide to go that way. For "stage 1" the cobb reflash is way better than what is on there so I wouldn't worry about it. I'm Pretty sure UMS is a cobb tuner so they could get you one. They are friends of mine and local to you, so if you're buying an AP I'd suggest them.
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May 7, 2014 22:42
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jamal posted:Yeah, the only downside is the $600 accessport which I don't sell. Then you still have to pay for custom tuning if you decide to go that way. For "stage 1" the cobb reflash is way better than what is on there so I wouldn't worry about it. I'm Pretty sure UMS is a cobb tuner so they could get you one. They are friends of mine and local to you, so if you're buying an AP I'd suggest them. Awesome. Send me their info if you could. I'm going to call them this week. That graph has me
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May 7, 2014 22:44
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jamal posted:Notice the AFR drops as boost comes in and the torque curve is pretty smooth.  No mods from the first to the second? Holy crap.
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May 7, 2014 22:49
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Fifty Three posted:
Same car, same dyno, same day, just the Accessport.
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May 7, 2014 22:52
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Linux Nazi posted:That graph has me Once you have the AP, do some datalogs, decipher them, and see for yourself how things are running, it'll make you feel better.
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May 7, 2014 22:54
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Sudo Echo posted:This sounds identical to my 98. 24-ish MPG and a too-short fifth gear. Guess some things don't change What's really annoying is a lot of other markets have a 6 speed where the first 5 gears are exactly the same ratio as the US market one, but they have that taller gear it feels like it needs.
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May 7, 2014 23:11
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That graph is why I think anyone buying a 2015 STI over the 2015 WRX needs their head examined (transmission be damned). Fancy strong six speed with fancy AWD is going to do you no good when you eat a piston. I'm in a car slump. My 2002 hasn't been on the road since August of 2013 because I'm too lazy to put in a new upper radiator hose. Well, it's more than that. I'm annoyed with the limited clearance of the aftermarket radiator that apparently requires precision trimming of the hose to ensure that it hits neither pulley nor fan. The one that's on it right now isn't doing either, but I feel I've trimmed too much off of it and I'm not happy with the fit. At this point, I think I should just got another stock radiator years ago when the first failed and not had the headache. The whole thing just annoys me to the point where I get mad looking at the car. I think it's because that's not the only issue. I have some rust showing up. I have either valve cover gaskets or the turbo return line leaking and causing some SLIGHT smoking sometimes one passenger side. The turbo fill point for the radiator cracked at the base and I have it patched right now with JBWeld, but that sort of patch annoys me rather than fixing it right. I know I should replace the up-pipe very soon (119k miles) because I run the risk of the turbo ingesting the cat. I have some suspension work that really should be done to tighten the car up. Rust on the rear knuckles is causing me all matter of weirdness (rotor scraping, some misalignment of parking brake elements.) The AC isn't working properly on it right now. Basically, it's a 12.5 year old car that's lived its life in the northeast. Every time I go to fix something that's broken, I usually end up breaking something else due to something being seized and welded together by rust. So, I've gotten paranoid about working on the car. I don't even want to bleed my brakes right now because the last two bleeders I touched snapped off at the caliper. I could fix everything that's wrong with it with enough time and money, I just lack motivation. The 2011 I like, but I find myself being paranoid about keeping it past the factory warranty since the engine is so close to the edge tune-wise. It's also a bit soul-less. I never lost the poo poo eating grin driving the 2002 around, but the 2011 just feels like an appliance to me now. Some of that's probably just me getting older, but I may be nearing the point where I don't feel like owning a WRX anymore. I really wish I knew if anything was going to happen with the BRZ in the next year or so because I would trade the 2002 in on a WRB BRZ in a heartbeat. The question of the 2011 is harder to answer. If they came out with a new WRX hatch, I may be inclined to go that direction. The sedan is useless to me though. I'm honestly thinking about trading it in on a Jeep Renegade when it comes out to fulfill the utility portion of my car ownership. Maybe I'll skip the BRZ and do 2015 WRX sedan and the Jeep. If they did a new STI with a new engine, that would be an easier question to answer. I don't expect that anytime soon though. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 23:15 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 23:13
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I really wish they would talk more about what they are doing with the BRZ as well. Seems like a no-brainer, but then again so did keeping the WRX wagon! Edit: Cobb AP Ordered. I'll have to read on how to do before and after datalogs with it. lol they have Arizona California Nevada specific maps for us pisswater fuel states. Great. Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 02:21 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 23:40
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Fifty Three posted:
Wow, yeah. I wasn't planning on grabbing an AP till later but I think I'll be ordering one tonight.
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May 8, 2014 02:21
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Sudo Echo posted:This sounds identical to my 98. 24-ish MPG and a too-short fifth gear. Guess some things don't change I can cruise pretty much anywhere in 5th in my 03 impreza and I'm pretty sure that Australian speed limits are a little less than America's. 5th really feels too close to 4th, I can comfortably do 60kmh (37 MPH) in it. Big hills require shifting to 3rd or 4th but still. E: According to Subaru, my 2005 WRX (2L, it was like the last blobeye sold here) makes 300nm of torque. That 2004 STi only makes 273, but doesn't the STi have a 2.5l engine? Does Subaru overstate the power? Because that seems disappointing, unless the AUDM ones have a very different tune. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 02:52 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 02:41
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Now I really wish I sold accessports
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May 8, 2014 02:54
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jamal posted:Now I really wish I sold accessports Me too man. What's your opinion on the Cobb Intake? I was looking at the stage 1 power pack on rally sport, but I don't really know if I'd benefit much from a different intake. I wouldn't mind the wooshy noises but my plans for the car power wise are going to end at stage 2 (well, I won't ever change turbo's or pistons or anything at any rate) so I don't know if I'd really benefit from it. Think its worth it? If not I'll just grab the AP and call it a day for now.
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May 8, 2014 03:08
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jamal posted:Now I really wish I sold accessports How hard is it to get hooked up as an Accessport reseller? I assume it's the same as any Cobb part, right?
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May 8, 2014 03:09
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jamal posted:Same car, same dyno, same day, just the Accessport. The Audi TSI/FSI motors see a similar big gain with a flash and a tune. I feel a little out of date seeing these kinds of performance gains with just software. What is the downside to these types of mods? Fuel economy? Hard on the engine and turbo? Why weren't they tuned like this from the factory?
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May 8, 2014 03:40
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What's funny is that most people report improved economy with a flash. I think it is mostly an emissions thing, but guys with a flash and a single high flow cat usually still pass a smog test (although not always the visual inspection) so I don't really know why it's that way. They their dealers to have an actual shop, keep inventory, and preferably have a dyno and tune cars. For awhile there were a lot of guys selling way below what Cobb wanted through the whole "PM me for a price" thing on nasioc and to put a stop to that they cut off a lot of dealers. I was never set up directly with cobb and just bought through a wholesale distributor, but since I'm not an authorized dealer I can't even do that now. I even know a lot of people at cobb pretty well and they weren't willing to set me up as a dealer. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:47 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 03:45
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That might explain why Subimods threw together a storefront. I didn't expect it. That blows, if anyone should be able to get on the Cobb margin gravy train it should be you.
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May 8, 2014 03:46
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Yeah, the markup on an accessport is a lot.Thorpe posted:Me too man. What's your opinion on the Cobb Intake? I was looking at the stage 1 power pack on rally sport, but I don't really know if I'd benefit much from a different intake. I wouldn't mind the wooshy noises but my plans for the car power wise are going to end at stage 2 (well, I won't ever change turbo's or pistons or anything at any rate) so I don't know if I'd really benefit from it. Think its worth it? If not I'll just grab the AP and call it a day for now. I prefer the AEM intake over cobb, plus I can actually sell those. And yes, even though the stock intake is capable of flowing 300+ whp of air or whatever they say on nasioc, replacing it all with a stage 2 flash makes a pretty significant difference. I really wish I had made my own backup of harman motive's old intake comparison because it was really good. They strapped an sti to a dyno and did pulls with every intake on the market with and without a flash. AEM altered AFRs the least and made the most power (it was like an extra 20whp), injen was the worst and likely to cause engine damage.
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May 8, 2014 03:51
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jamal posted:What's funny is that most people report improved economy with a flash. I think it is mostly an emissions thing, but guys with a flash and a single high flow cat usually still pass a smog test (although not always the visual inspection) so I don't really know why it's that way. Its the same story in Audiland. The Stage 2 & 3 stuff requires all sorts of exhaust and intake stuff, and apparently you can start eating clutches, but the Stage 1 tune nets you almost 50hp and boatloads of torque with no apparent downside. I don't understand why they leave so much horsepower on the table and nowhere I look seems to have an explanation.
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May 8, 2014 03:52
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I can cruise pretty much anywhere in 5th in my 03 impreza and I'm pretty sure that Australian speed limits are a little less than America's. 5th really feels too close to 4th, I can comfortably do 60kmh (37 MPH) in it. Big hills require shifting to 3rd or 4th but still. Well my engine is a bit older even if it is slightly bigger (EJ25D) and it only makes 220Nm @ 4000rpm in a larger vehicle (Outback) so the short gearing makes sense. It still would be nice to have a taller 5th or 6th sometimes because people around here like to cruise at 80mph and at that speed I'm hitting just over 4000rpm. Speaking of high rpm and high load, anyone know what might cause a high-pitched warbling sound under those conditions? It comes on precisely at 3500rpm at part or full throttle but not engine braking. Sounds quite a bit like an old fashioned refs whistle and is a constant pitch until about 4500rpm when it gets higher all at once, no gradual shift. Checked for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any.
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May 8, 2014 03:53
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My neighbor has a forester, not sure what year. Her AC is making a chirp/squeak noise when it's turned on. The AC clutch seems to be engaging fine and not slipping. There isn't any play I can feel in it, but I can feel a vibration. What's the likely cause, bad bearing in the compressor? Is there serviceable stuff in there or do you have to replace the whole assembly?
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May 8, 2014 03:58
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