|
apatite posted:You might have to cut off the end of the throttle tube Yeah I think I read somewhere you want like 3mm of clearance from the end of the bar? I thought I could just scoot the throttle to the left but you have to actually cut it?
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 16:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:34 |
|
|
Razzled posted:Yeah I think I read somewhere you want like 3mm of clearance from the end of the bar? I thought I could just scoot the throttle to the left but you have to actually cut it? I believe both my Yamaha and the DRZ had throttle tubes that were not "open" on the end so you can't stick the expanding nut-thing for the handguard into the bars. This also means you can't just scoot it over. You have to cut off the end of the tube to open it up, and yes it is a good idea to cut it a little further in so there is no chance of it binding on the handguard
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 16:26
|
|
|
Christoff posted:Rename thread to DRZ chat In the great supermoto wars, one bike, one underdog, clawed its way to the top in the face of extreme adversity and competition from all corners of the Earth. Coming this summer.... DRZ MEGATHREAD
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 16:29
|
|
|
apatite posted:I believe both my Yamaha and the DRZ had throttle tubes that were not "open" on the end so you can't stick the expanding nut-thing for the handguard into the bars. This also means you can't just scoot it over. You have to cut off the end of the tube to open it up, and yes it is a good idea to cut it a little further in so there is no chance of it binding on the handguard Ah, mine is open I think. I've got a 2014 and the stock bar end weights screw into a thread that's further inside the handlebar, but the rubber of the throttle grip doesn't encompass the side of the handlebar end.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
Razzled posted:Ah, mine is open I think. I've got a 2014 and the stock bar end weights screw into a thread that's further inside the handlebar, but the rubber of the throttle grip doesn't encompass the side of the handlebar end. Cool, must be that is A Thing on DRZ-SM, mine is a lowly DRZ-S and quite a bit older DRZ thread 4eva
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 16:39
|
|
|
Open ended Zeta throttle tubes are like five dollars
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 17:59
|
|
|
Yerok posted:Open ended Zeta throttle tubes are like five dollars You don't have a hacksaw, or anything else that can cut plastic? $5 will get me like 60-70 miles
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 18:24
|
|
|
Yerok posted:Open ended Zeta throttle tubes are like five dollars But that's like $100 worth of games on steam!
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 18:28
|
|
|
Fixed the WR250 (bad plug, see questions thread) then promptly took it out to play in the rain and low sided on some gravel+wet poo poo. Me and bike are fine because it's a motard. Pissed at myself for not making time to fix it Monday night.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 20:19
|
|
|
I don't usually keep using the same throttle tube unless I'm running super soft grips that fall apart constantly. I love pillowtops but they get pretty ratty in like a month.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
>>>DRZ Thread Ok so today I installed DRC edge taillight (kept stock blinkers), Zeta armor bends, and the Zeta XC handguards with flashers. I'm stuck on the wiring for the flashers though. According to the XC installation manual black = ground and red = power, ok great. But I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for the DRZ400sm that says which is ground and which is power on the bike. Is it safe to just trial and error them? Also, is it possible to use both the stock front blinkers AND the XC handguards? I'm thinking about cutting the stock wires to reuse the plastic connector and the splicing the XC Flashers and the stock blinkers into one set of wires and then reattaching that to the connector. The benefit of this is I would get increased visibility and I wouldn't have to deal with a relay or resistor to slow the flashing on the LEDs. e: thanks goons Razzled fucked around with this message at 05:45 on May 11, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 00:25
|
|
|
Razzled posted:>>>DRZ Thread Yep. quote:
If you wire them up in series, then you should be OK (modulo potentially the LED turn signals not getting enough voltage to light). If you wire them in parallel, then you'll still have to deal with the flashing rate. Once you figure out which is hot and which is ground, it should be safe to experiment. quote:
Yep.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 01:55
|
|
|
There's probably a PDF online somewhere. Allegedly.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 02:55
|
|
|
Hey guys some of us don't ride DRZ's. What's a good place to find recommended tire pressures? I'm curious what I should run these ContiAttack SM's on my XR400R.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 06:33
|
|
|
Back to DRZ chat. 2011 DRZ400SM. I replaced my rubber mounts with zeta rubber killers. Clymer says to torque "handlebar holder bolts" to 33 ft-lb. I think they are referring to A (the handlebar holder), but what about B (the handlebar holder holder)? 
epswing fucked around with this message at 12:48 on May 11, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 12:31
|
|
|
epalm posted:Back to DRZ chat. No, they're referring the B with that spec. 32 foot pounds is way too much for a handle bar pinch bolt. XYLOPAGUS posted:Hey guys some of us don't ride DRZ's. You can run them anywhere from 22 to 32, depending on what you like best. Sumos are really forgiving on tire pressures. I usually ran around 28-30.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 16:40
|
|
|
Z3n posted:No, they're referring the B with that spec. 32 foot pounds is way too much for a handle bar pinch bolt. I'm going to bump it to 28. I've been running 25 and it feels great, but I feel like I'm going to wear these bad boys out too quickly.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 18:34
|
|
|
Z3n posted:No, they're referring the B with that spec. 32 foot pounds is way too much for a handle bar pinch bolt. Now I'm thoroughly confused. I'll start over. I want to know the torque specs for these two bolts (A) and (B)  In this diagram, it appears the right side is for SM models. As for as I can tell, (A) is in the top right as (1) "Handlebar holder bolt", (B) is (9) "Nut" I'm already a little confused, because it labels (1) going through (2) "Handlebar holder cap" and fastening to (3) "Handlebar holder". And also, another longer (1) going through (3) fastening to (9). So there are two types of "Handlebar holder bolt".  In the text, it says "loosen the lower holder bolts", and then "tighten the bolts ... to 33 ft-lb) on SM models". In this case, which bolts it the text referring to? I would assume it meant (9), but it goes on to reference "the bolts" in (A, Figure 1) pointing at (1). In the torque specs section, it simply references "handlebar holder bolts" at 33 ft-lb for SM models, 3rd line from the bottom. So... 
epswing fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 11, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 20:46
|
|
|
It's a really poor diagram and explanation. You will note that they have both the rubber vibration mount bolts and the handlebar mount pinch bolts labeled as "1" (the things you are calling out as "A" and "B"). I can tell you that if you try and torque down the pinch bolts (A) to 33 foot pounds you are going to have a bad day - those bolts and the mounts will not take that sort of torque without deforming and potentially stripping the threads. The pinch bolts are to be torqued to 17 foot pounds, as per the spec. On the SM model, you will additionally torque bolt "B" (also tagged as "1" in the diagram, called a handlebar holder bolt) to 33 foot pounds. This is why a torque wrench isn't a substitute for paying close attention to what you are torquing though - there is no way a pinch bolt will take 33 foot pounds effectively, but you have no way of knowing that clearly from their really confusing diagram. Also, this is a clymer/haynes manual? I'd imagine that contributes. Usually the factory manuals will have a base model, primary book for the model, with addendums for the years afterwards/changes in model, to avoid exactly this sort of confusion.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:09
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Also, this is a clymer/haynes manual? I'd imagine that contributes. Usually the factory manuals will have a base model, primary book for the model, with addendums for the years afterwards/changes in model, to avoid exactly this sort of confusion. Which book should I have? The Suzuki DRZ Shop Manual (tm)?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:26
|
|
|
Yeah, the official Suzuki manual, plus the appropriate supplimental books for your bike.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:37
|
|
epalm posted:Which book should I have? The Suzuki DRZ Shop Manual (tm)? PM'd you with shop manual info.
|
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 21:45
|
|
|
Back to hybrid chat for a minute. For those that have ridden a 690 (Or hell even a 625) How does it feel compared to the DRZ? I understand with a few mods you can get the DRZ pretty quick. Plus I assume they're much lighter compared to the 690. My buddy had one and I should have asked to ride it. I assume it's got a lot more pep and is a wheelie monster and is just generally more fun for zooming around town being a hooligan. It was tough to get the front of my 690 SM (not C!) up. Incoming wall of text from z3n :p Also I'm going to ask again. Who wants to do a weekend/day sumo school in Southern California!?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 22:10
|
|
|
So I was perusing some vids and even though this one is old (new to me) it was probably the coolest motorcycle thing I've ever seen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OEGTQXEEjE;t=1m25s Is that like a common thing they do in the supermoto races or is that dude just some wild bad rear end off the streets of king cool island?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 22:12
|
|
|
Christoff posted:Back to hybrid chat for a minute. Having owned both, and for a year, at the same time, I can answer this. The 690 is a night and day difference in just about every way. Having a 6th gear is a huge, huge comfort. First thing I noticed was the brakes, second thing is how fast it was, 3rd thing was how comfortably I could cruise at 75 MPH. Easy. I don't mind the cost involved so I don't have much to say there, you have to choose your own adventure on price. The DRZ felt... like poo poo, afterwards, if I'm honest. But, it always had a charm. Whenever I'd hop on the DRZ I'd appreciate its low speed manners (0-20 MPH, very smooth) and how it was smaller. If I was going to do really tight low speed stuff, >20 MPH the DRZ was way more comfortable. After the 690 my well moodded DRZ felt like... well like nothing happened when you turned the throttle. The 690 takes off so hard when you gas it... But the DRZ had a charm to it. I always liked it. I didnt' want to sell it really, and passed it onto my brother for a while before really letting it go. At the time I was trying to buy an 848 and while I was thinking on it I rode the DRZ for a quick ride down some of the nice roads where I was living. I loved everything about that bike and I thought to myself 'if I cant find a good deal on a 848, I'm going to buy a better one of these'. 2 days later I bought the 690 and it was absolutely everything i wanted it to be. I can understand loving a DRZ, because I get it. I did that. I can't understand this insistence that it's the only choice. The only reason I'd ever buy another DRZ is if I couldn't afford a 690. It's just such a better package. 690 Cons: - Aggressive throttle (Didn't bother me, some find it twitchy, you can do a lot about it if you put in the effort) - Initial price, you gotta pay to play baby - Some people say vibration. I think this is overblown. Older KTMs have a 'paint shaker' reputation. The LC4 is a lovely engine. It's a little vibey, but its also 650CC's and 65~ HP. You get a lot for your lovely rear view mirror clarity. FlerpNerpin fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 01:59
|
|
|
Also a properly set up SMC is just better than the SM or the 610, which I rode recently. The downside to the SMC is that it doesnt really want to cruise, it's not a bike you ride in a chill fashion. But I wonder if the new fueling on the new gen of 690 will make it a better all arounder.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 02:03
|
|
|
It did teach me good low speed clutch control. It just wants to take off. There is a 'neutral throttle' position you can cruise in but if you tilt out of that it jumps to life. I admit a number of people who rode the 690 didn't like that about it. There are things you can do, as said but I didn't mind. I liked how it always wanted to GO GO GO. Made me feel like I was riding a monster, something that wanted to go out and play. I could start a wheelie at 70 MPH in 5th gear on flat ground on that bike. It was loving amazing. At the same time, I needed to get into dirt biking and riding on the track for my own sanity and safety and I felt like I was letting the bike go to waste just commuting on it. I think the new 690 Duke is maybe the most perfect bike ever designed as a result of my SMC experience, plus its like 8k or something hilariously low. What a loving bargain.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 02:07
|
|
|
8.5k msrp with ABS standard. There might be one of those in the house soon after the unfortuanteness with the gixxer 750.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 02:20
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:
I haven't noticed anyone say DRZs are ~the only supermoto~ unless it's on some of the dumber forums out there. There's certainly better bikes in basically every way, but the DRZ is just cheap as hell. Things would be -alot- different if you could actually get factory 690SMCs in the states though. Right now it's just everybody making the choice between - buying a used 4k DRZ off craigslist - Buy a new model 690 enduro (or hitting the lottery and finding one used) for about 10k and spending upwards of 2k converting it to a faux-smc. The latter is unquestionably a better bike in almost every way (maybe not on dirt for most people  ), but now we're comparing a $4000 thing to a $12000 thing. If they were actually sold in the states it wouldn't even be a competition since the 690SMC would be all over CL for around $6000.e: I'm not implying that these two are the only supermotos worth having. I'm just comparing buying the two in the US/Texas. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 02:49
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:
In the 6 months I spent looking for a supermoto, of the probably 30 DRZ's I came across, I think I found two 690's, both were overpriced, one waaaay overpriced. I catch poo poo for saying there is only one in the hemisphere, but it feels like its not far from the truth. Thats also made to seem worse by how (relatively) easy to find the DRZ's are. Even the WR250 is kinda hard to find comparatively. The DRZ is not the only option, but it often winds up being due to the scarcity of the 690. And I was looking in MKE-CHI metro for a supermoto, so its not like I was waiting for one to show up way out in the boonies.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 02:54
|
|
|
Maybe KTM has gotten their poo poo together in recent years, but I would be very hesitant to buy another, especially a used one. Regarding the 2013+ 690 Duke, how much would one expect to pay for it out the door? The idea of dealers not budging on price and then tacking on another grand for "assembly" really sucks. At least that's what the local Triumph dealer wants to do here. The KTM dealer never even has new street bikes for sale-- they say KTM will hardly ship them anything. \/\/\/\/\/\/Edit: Lol $6500 for a 690? In Houston and surrounding areas, they're priced more at $8k+, when they actually pop up, and that's generally for an '08 model year. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 04:42 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 04:09
|
|
|
Availability is what it is, you gotta pay to play. They pop up regularly around here so maybe its a bubble. More people should just buy them! You don't have to do dick too them once you have one so all the cost is up front! I'm hoping the 390 happens and floods the market of the future with cheap well specced low weight reliable 43 HP SM's. You are talking about very different prices though, and I was framing my response in the world of 'what are these two bikes like compared'. I'm not a financial planner... You can tell from my bike history. You gotta pay like 6500+ to get into an SMC, that's not changing anytime soon. You can probably get a duke for >9k OTD. KTM did me good both times I bought new from em'. I've had good dealer experiences but Seattle area has an unusually high number of dealers. If you can't justify the cash for a 690 then don't ride one because you'll twist your own arm finding a way... I want a 'Berg 570 someday to see how it compares to live with.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 04:30
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Maybe KTM has gotten their poo poo together in recent years, but I would be very hesitant to buy another, especially a used one. Yeah, that high price tag in this area and the lack of reliability (supposedly) in older models is why I didn't even mention buying used. The newer 690s are supposed to be far more reliable (according to internet nerds) than the previous years. If the SMC was actually sold in the US it would be a far more popular bike than it currently is. A new DRZ is north of 7k (then people like to dump around a grand or 2 on mods), and buying 450 mx bikes and converting them is expensive as poo poo. The (apparently) reasonably reliable SMC-R at $11,000 or whatever it is would probably sell decently well for a supermoto in the US. Or at least it would cut into the probably tiny niche market of dudes that spend $7000 on a bike and throw $2000 at it before the first set of tires are even scrubbed in. Spiffness posted:They pop up regularly around here so maybe its a bubble. More people should just buy them! You don't have to do dick too them once you have one so all the cost is up front! Just buying them is the problem. They're not sold in the US anymore Here's an expensive one off CL. It's the only one for sale. http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/4430168162.html Aren't the old ones supposed to have reliability issues anyways? I never really looked into them. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 05:55 on May 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 05:17
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:You gotta pay like 6500+ to get into an SMC, that's not changing anytime soon. You must live in a bubble, because if one came up for $6500 I would have bought it. I'm talking 8-10K inflated.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 05:20
|
|
|
I listed mine for 7 to 7.5, depending on location, and took 6.5 for it. It's a bike that is rare enough that you might have to travel or ship it.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 15:45
|
|
|
In good condition, it's worth every penny at 8-10k But yeah, you can get them here for 6500. If you want one, ping me I guess, I can help you find one and you can fly-n-ride.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 16:03
|
|
|
Anyone know the background behind this hilarious fight? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy4GNxEWQik;t=50s before that time mark it's just car stuff :[ couldn't see what set the KTM rider off
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 16:24
|
|
|
I got my 2009 690 SMC with 6k miles for $5.6k. I think I bought it about 4-5 hours after it was listed, though. If you really want a deal you generally have to spend months refreshing craigslist and be ready to jump at a moments notice. I recommend researching the known issues on these bikes too since mine had a stalling issue due to the aftermarket exhaust the dude had put on it. I had to guess on the spot that it probably wasn't a big deal (it wasn't.)
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 16:46
|
|
|
The bikes like to be stock (and run awesome stock) Unless you put in the time and effort to tune it properly, most exhaust or intake or tuning modifications just gently caress it up. Zool put an exhaust and a remap on his and I never liked it, gutted the mid-range I thought. He eventually went bak to stock.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 16:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:34 |
|
|
Maybe I'm just a DRZ philistine but the fact that the 690 now has a trellis frame and an exposed engine bottom end rubs me the wrong way. Not that it matters because like Jim said good luck finding one within 100 miles of Wisconsin. I'm interested in the Husqvarnas I guess.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2014 17:37
|
|