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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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stubblyhead posted:Good to know, I'll try to remember to do that this fall. We bought the house in January, and aside from routine maintenance not a lot of upkeep had been done on the plants. Here's some more shots of the mystery flower from before: Looks like some kind of alium blossom. Edite: VV Oh, hahah. Sorry. No idea then. Hummingbirds fucked around with this message at 20:33 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 20:30
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Hummingbirds posted:Looks like some kind of alium blossom. No, the dangly one in the foreground, not the purple ones.
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May 7, 2014 20:31
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stubblyhead posted:No, the dangly one in the foreground, not the purple ones. Still looks like a variety of allium to me, with that membrane over the flowers that you can see on the first image you posted. Kind of like this, Allium bulgaricum: http://www.sarahraven.com/shop/nectaroscordum-bulgaricum.html Crab Ran fucked around with this message at 22:17 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 22:08
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rear end in a top hat casserole posted:Still looks like a variety of allium to me, with that membrane over the flowers that you can see on the first image you posted. That sure does look like it, thanks!
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May 7, 2014 23:05
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stubblyhead posted:I tried to find it again and wasn't able to.
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May 7, 2014 23:31
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Suave Fedora posted:If I had a patch of patio where grass simply wouldn't grow, I'd just make a circular garden around the tree or create functionality out of it, perhaps a bench on large square pavers or something to that effect. Nature is already saying that the sunlight being filtered isn't enough to support grass, so find something that would be supported. I can't block it off or turn it into a garden. It's the narrow strip between my fence and covered patio that allows me access to the back yard (I have a tiny yard). And I do have a plan B. If I can't get grass established this year, I'm going to put in some bugleweed there next year.
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May 8, 2014 00:34
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rear end in a top hat casserole posted:Still looks like a variety of allium to me, with that membrane over the flowers that you can see on the first image you posted. It's actually an Allium siculum aka Sicilian honey garlic. You were very close. (I only know this because my mom gave me a bunch of them last year.  )
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May 8, 2014 02:00
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zeroprime posted:Thanks to your posts I've been bitten by the bug. I think I need to get some carnivorous plants to take care of it. Oh man you should totally do it. Hit me up on PMs if you want any help, or drop me a line at sundews.etc at gmail dot com. In other news, my Drosera intermedia 'Cuba' seedlings are looking great, and are in full flower.  I started these from seed back around Christmas, and had a really high germination rate. I actually wish I had sown the pot a bit less densely, but it's really hard to see the sundew seeds, which are like grains of ground pepper. If I had more room in my trays I'd thin this out into several more pots. Ah well. Kenning fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 05:55
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I wanted to start planting the shade garden plants this weekend, but it looks like we'll be getting quite a bit of rain. Are there any known issues with planting new plants in the rain, or is it best to do it in better weather? Because if it's still okay to do in rainy weather, I'm going to go ahead with my plans.
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May 8, 2014 06:41
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The best time to transplant is actually right before it rains (or during a light sprinkling). The plants get less stressed if you move them when it's overcast, and having a nice rain afterwards helps them get established in their new home. After a rain is actually the bad time because then the soil is real wet and tends to compact, making it harder for the transplanted roots to get a foothold.
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May 8, 2014 14:22
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Can anyone tell me what this plant is? I bought a variety of flowers for my mom, but this one didn't have a tag, and neither did any of the other pots or baskets of the same. I didn't think to ask someone while I was there either. Also, will the plants be fine sitting in my car overnight if I wait until the sun pretty much goes down before putting them in there? I've got cats wanting to get into the room to get at them, and a husband with allergies, and so if I can put them in the car tonight instead of before work (where I'll be dropping them off to my mom on the way) in the morning, that'd be ideal. 
IdeoPhanthus fucked around with this message at 16:38 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 16:34
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IdeoPhanthus posted:Can anyone tell me what this plant is? I bought a variety of flowers for my mom, but this one didn't have a tag, and neither did any of the other pots or baskets of the same. I didn't think to ask someone while I was there either. That's a begonia. You can tell from how the leaf shape isn't symmetric. They should be fine in your car if you park it in the shade and leave the window cracked. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:26 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 19:03
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I'll be putting in some plants for the very first time this coming weekend. I was watching this video and it suggests using gravel in areas where water doesn't drain well. Are you supposed to mix it in with the soil or something? How much gravel should be used? And should mulch be used in an area with poor drainage, or should I stick to soil only?Marchegiana posted:The best time to transplant is actually right before it rains (or during a light sprinkling). The plants get less stressed if you move them when it's overcast, and having a nice rain afterwards helps them get established in their new home. After a rain is actually the bad time because then the soil is real wet and tends to compact, making it harder for the transplanted roots to get a foothold. 
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May 9, 2014 06:21
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That lady's just spouting old nonsense about planting. You shouldn't add anything to your native soil without a soil test and a very good reason, including compost (compost should only be added as a top dressing, in any case). The most important things you can do when planting is wash all substrate off the roots, fix any circling roots, use your native soil, and then add a wood chip mulch after planting. Article on proper planting technique: http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Instant%20landscape.pdf
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May 9, 2014 12:17
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unprofessional posted:That lady's just spouting old nonsense about planting. You shouldn't add anything to your native soil without a soil test and a very good reason, including compost (compost should only be added as a top dressing, in any case). The most important things you can do when planting is wash all substrate off the roots, fix any circling roots, use your native soil, and then add a wood chip mulch after planting. I am so out of my element, here. 
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May 9, 2014 13:21
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Don't worry about soil testing or buying any sort of soil amendment, aside from mulch, honestly. Just remove potted soil, spread out the roots horizontally, use your native soil, and mulch. People over-complicate it. You're buying very hardy perennials that will end up doing most of your work for you.
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May 9, 2014 13:49
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unprofessional posted:Don't worry about soil testing or buying any sort of soil amendment, aside from mulch, honestly. Just remove potted soil, spread out the roots horizontally, use your native soil, and mulch. People over-complicate it. You're buying very hardy perennials that will end up doing most of your work for you.
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May 9, 2014 15:22
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You can if you want, but stick with a slow-release fertilizer, like Osmocote.
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May 9, 2014 16:05
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Hi everyone. I just bought a lithops the other day, and I was wondering if anyone has any tips for caring for these little guys.
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May 9, 2014 16:47
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I was gonna post some stuff for you, but instead just read this: http://www.lithops.info
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May 9, 2014 18:14
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Kenning posted:I was gonna post some stuff for you, but instead just read this: http://www.lithops.info Thank you! This is very helpful.
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May 9, 2014 18:29
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unprofessional posted:Article on proper planting technique: http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Instant%20landscape.pdf Son of a BITCH. My creeping phlox was really hard to plant because there were little stubby evergreen "branch" that snaked out horizontally but the tiny roots were not. I think I put them in too shallow and some died. I also added peat they sent with them. Can I dig them up (not too hard, just lift, apparently) and do again this year? I did this in the fall last year. I'll see if my brother can get some camera pictures of them. It looks really bad
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May 10, 2014 01:38
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unprofessional posted:Article on proper planting technique: http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Instant%20landscape.pdf quote:Container potting material needs to be removed from the root mass and composted – not added
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May 10, 2014 04:14
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That70sHeidi posted:Son of a BITCH. melon cat posted:Just saw something that caught my eye in this article. The part that says: In other news, here's a couple of my best looking succulents. Senecio fulgens:  Variegated Haworthia cymbiformis hybrid: 
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May 10, 2014 12:56
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Help! Can you identify this plant growing in my garden? Please tell me it isn't poison ivy or poison oak or poison anything. A friend of a friend identified it as such and I'm really hoping she was wrong.   
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May 10, 2014 14:56
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Poison ivy has three leaves at the end of a stem, the center leaf almost always has it's own small stem and is longer than the two side leaves, and the edges are usually (but not always) serrated. Don't gently caress with that plant, unless you just really want to
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May 10, 2014 18:15
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Alright. We got the plants into the soil thanks to the advice in this thread (I couldn't find many of the suggested plants, though). It's looking better already.   I sprinkled some fertilizer (it's that granule-type that looks like gravel). But how much are you supposed to use? And how often? We also saw these plants at the local store- can anyone identify them? They look neat. 
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May 10, 2014 20:32
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melon cat posted:We also saw these plants at the local store- can anyone identify them? They look neat. Those are all different varieties of Stonecrop, a ground cover for full sun that stands up to drought well and can grow drat near anywhere, even in the cracks of rocks. It's such a good ground cover because broken stem sections don't die, they callus over and will grow roots once wind blows that section somewhere favorable. They're part of the genus Sedum, which is a huge genus. There are other sedum varieties that are upright and do not spread along the ground, with the same hardiness. It flowers too.
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May 10, 2014 20:50
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kid sinister posted:Those are all different varieties of Stonecrop, a ground cover for full sun that stands up to drought well and can grow drat near anywhere, even in the cracks of rocks. It's such a good ground cover because broken stem sections don't die, they callus over and will grow roots once wind blows that section somewhere favorable. They're part of the genus Sedum, which is a huge genus. There are other sedum varieties that are upright and do not spread along the ground, with the same hardiness. It flowers too. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:55 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 20:53
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melon cat posted:Thanks for IDing those for me! I think I'll add them to our front yard. Are they considered to be annuals/perennials? And do you just remove them from the tray the stores sell them in, and bury them slightly? And do they grow outward and spread from your initial stonecrop "tray", or do you have to buy several trays worth in order to get decent ground coverage? Just wondering how much I'll need to buy. They're perennials, and they spread out from their original spots. That means staggering them out across the area you want them to cover. Plant them exactly like any other plant, remove them from the pot/tray they came in, fan the roots out and plant them with the top of their dirt a ground level. How many to buy depends on how large an area you wish to cover and how soon you want complete coverage.
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May 10, 2014 21:24
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kid sinister posted:They're perennials, and they spread out from their original spots. That means staggering them out across the area you want them to cover. Plant them exactly like any other plant, remove them from the pot/tray they came in, fan the roots out and plant them with the top of their dirt a ground level. Awesome. I'll do this next weekend. Can they coexist with the other plants I just planted, or do they completely take things over?
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May 10, 2014 22:11
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melon cat posted:Awesome. I'll do this next weekend. Can they coexist with the other plants I just planted, or do they completely take things over? Your existing plants should be fine. With ground covers, you have to worry more about them escaping across barriers. The ones you really have to worry about are the ones that can climb, like ivy.
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May 10, 2014 22:22
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unprofessional posted:Phlox is pretty hardy. I'm sure if you replant, which will probably be easy since it doesn't sound well established, you'll do just fine. That is an awesome Senecio! I didn't realize there were caudiciform species!
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May 10, 2014 22:59
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I got my mom this blue spruce topiary for mother's day. Is there anything special we should know about it?
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May 11, 2014 01:56
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You have to slowly raise it to really show it, but it looks so nice once you do.
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May 11, 2014 01:56
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Tremors posted:I got my mom this blue spruce topiary for mother's day. Is there anything special we should know about it? Expect two to three inches of growth a year once it really kicks in. Make sure you take your time and really clean all the potting mix off the roots and spread them well. It looks a little overpotted, so it might take some work (soaking it in a bucket for a half hour can make it a lot easier). Plant it even with where it was planted in the pot and enjoy. Looks like a nice plant. It won't even need trimmed (or take well to it), as it's a spruce.
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May 11, 2014 02:00
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melon cat posted:Just saw something that caught my eye in this article. The part that says: I was wondering about this too. I'm certainly no expert, but I've done gardening in my own yard for a long time and helped my parents a lot when I was a kid, and I've never heard of getting rid of the potting soil the plant came in. I always loosen it up and spread the roots out, but never removing the soil. I've always had reasonably good results too. What's the rationale?
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May 11, 2014 02:09
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A lot of it has to do with what is used in the horticulture industry for potting mix. The article "Root Balls, Part 1" explains it pretty well: quote:A second problem with containerized materials can also If you're fixing the circling roots and spreading them horizontally, you're probably better off than 90% of gardeners, but what we really want is the fastest root establishment into your native soil.
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May 11, 2014 12:48
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unprofessional posted:Expect two to three inches of growth a year once it really kicks in. Make sure you take your time and really clean all the potting mix off the roots and spread them well. It looks a little overpotted, so it might take some work (soaking it in a bucket for a half hour can make it a lot easier). Plant it even with where it was planted in the pot and enjoy. Looks like a nice plant. It won't even need trimmed (or take well to it), as it's a spruce. Thanks for the tips. Since you seem to be a bit of an expert on all things coniferous, I'm hoping you can tell me what to do with a tree in my backyard. It seems like the past couple of winters have been harder and harder on it and it takes a while to green up. I'm thinking it's finally done for since every needle on it is half brown. Is it possible to save it? If not, would removing it damage the other pine tree next to it?  
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May 11, 2014 19:35
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I can't say anything about saving it (I'm not very good with conifers, in your place I'd just get rid of it), but it's not looking good, especially when you look at the two of them side by side. If you do want to get rid of it just cutting it down at the base should do the trick. Conifers usually don't regrow if you cut them close to the ground- they focus most of their growth buds in the top/ends of the trunk and branches, so there usually isn't anything for them to resprout from close to the base.
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May 11, 2014 20:20
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