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jhcain posted:Rolled it out of the shop and drove it for the first time since the middle of January. Went in with tired suspension and 4 wheel drum brakes, came out refreshed. Washed the shop dust off. That's a loving awesome looking car. Everything just works together - body style, wheels, tires, paint, and what looks to be a bit of lowering.
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May 7, 2014 22:32
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Not today, but recently: -twin 12v accessory port in the glove box for Dash cam/GPS/ also has a somewhat ricey but definitely useful blue LED that now lights up the glovebox well at night. -Fixed ABS. it had been broken for years and its always been suggested it was one thing or the other. It wasnt the stainless steel turbo manifold that was too close the the ABS and cooking the unit, it wasnt the senders or the ABS sensor rings, it was a god drat $2 relay that broke. The one thing I suck at, soldering, was the only way to fix it. Took me two goes but now I can jump on the brakes and feel the car have a seizure as it comes to a stop. Also surprising how hard I can stand on the brakes in the dry before the ABS comes on, but decent tires does that I suppose. -New headlight globes. 6 years without replacing the globes, then one finally blew. Turns out that they were 80W Japanese H4s, I replaced them with Australian standard 60W, and they are about twice as bright without the weird looking blue 'iris' that the globes caused from having super blue tint. -Spent 2-3 nights correctly aiming my lovely headlights (to change the globe you must remove the headlight entirely, thus resetting the aim.) the screws for adjustment were all rusty and the heads stripped, and the metal EDIT: Also replaced my door strikers, which now require about 1/100th the effort to make the door close correctly. these $20 items were replaced after I spend $100 on new hinges, pushes and pins and $300 having them installed by a body shop. I am dumb. This weekend: -upgrade turbo from T25 to T28 -swear a lot at the entire process as the last time I attempted this it was a pain in the rear end. but I want more boost. Laserface fucked around with this message at 09:29 on May 9, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 06:02
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Changed all the locks on my 2 week old MGF, because I locked my keys in the boot last weekend and had to smash the lock open with a screwdriver. Don't like having 2 different keys, so had to do the lot. Also tightened the alternator belt up, and am slowly replacing broken/missing trim. Still throw the hood down at every opportunity!
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May 8, 2014 22:54
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Mounted my new Valentine1 (physically): Next up is the wiring. Edit: And, (mostly) done:  I still want to velcro that line into some sort of orderly fashion, but at least it's not sticking up through the middle of the car now. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:55 on May 9, 2014 |
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May 9, 2014 18:03
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I didn't do poo poo to my car today. In fact it's been standing in the basement, undriven, while I drive some cars for work research. But I did add one cylinder and 1.3-horsepower to my couch, today.
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May 9, 2014 23:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:a bit of lowering. It's only lowered a bit from the previous (probably sagged) stock setup, but I think it works pretty well. I had to run the coilovers up a bit today, as things are settling in - it was getting a little too low. Also on today's list was dealing with a cooling issue (crappy electric fans, then a duff mechanical fan clutch when I went back to that setup), and waiting for the delivery (arrived!) of the new ECU, since the previous one was acting a little odd.
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May 10, 2014 00:36
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Today I ended up doing my turbo swap. We begin!  Some intake stuff out  More stuff out, a glimpse of the old turbo (garrett T25)  Exhaust manifold, Turbo, Dump pipe and lines out!  Old Turbo and stuff. not pictured: Coolant all the gently caress over the floor.  Old turbo vs new turbo! (Garrett T28)  New turbo dressed with all the fixin's  Everything back in!  Back to how it was (minus a pressure nipple on the cold pipe that I snapped off and 2 high-tensile bolts that I had to cut off to get the dump pipe off the old turbo)  I was parked in 3 deep by other cars so I decided to wait until morning to test drive it and dial in the boost again. I was running about 10PSI previously, now I will be up to around 14. All in all, this was my least favorite way to spend 15 hours of my Saturday, but I predict it will be fun for a while getting used to all the new power. I took care of some other things too, such as properly securing the pod filter and the black cover to stop it vibrating (and improve its resistance to the prying eyes of law enforcement) and tidying up some overly long vacuum lines i had installed in a rush last time the filter was out.
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May 10, 2014 15:26
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Wash, claybar, Sonax Polymer Netshield. Was going to wax on top of that, but the sun just came out and its hotter than July out there. Might wax it tonight if it doesn't thunderstorm, or maybe in the morning tomorrow, or maybe next week. This Sonax stuff is supposed to last 6 months - it definitely makes the paint darker and shinier, but doesn't cover up the fine marks on the clearcoat like wax does. Also the finish isn't glass smooth like wax, but more "grippy," I don't know how to explain it. And the pollen is in full effect right now, I'm pretty sure I have pollen molecularly bonded to my paint for the next 6 months. Oh and before that changed the oil, air filter, and cabin filter. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 16:20
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Laserface posted:Today I ended up doing my turbo swap. Very nice! I'm planning on doing the exact same swap on my MSP down the road once I get the motor built to handle it. I like your setup better, though; my turbo doesn't have bolt-on compressor flanges, just slip fittings, with plastic pipes held on by screw clamps. With a bigger compressor regardless, it'll be a good excuse to redo the entire intake, including dropping the dinky SMIC for a FMIC. And V-band flanges everywhere.  I finally solved the rattle that popped up after replacing my dry-rotted exhaust hangars with Corksport urethane pieces. Heat shield by the shifter was rattling on the pipe, and I'd tried bending it up to no avail. The other day I unbolted it, and (re)discovered that the holes in the shield are a fair bit larger than the bolts holding it on. Pushed both sides towards the center and tightened back down, it lifted the middle up just enough to clear the pipe. The rear pipe does still rattle on sharp left turns where it passes through the subframe, but I've got a solution for that, probably do it later today. 
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May 10, 2014 17:17
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FogHelmut posted:Wash, claybar, Sonax Polymer Netshield. Was going to wax on top of that, but the sun just came out and its hotter than July out there. Might wax it tonight if it doesn't thunderstorm, or maybe in the morning tomorrow, or maybe next week. This Sonax stuff is supposed to last 6 months - it definitely makes the paint darker and shinier, but doesn't cover up the fine marks on the clearcoat like wax does. Also the finish isn't glass smooth like wax, but more "grippy," I don't know how to explain it. And the pollen is in full effect right now, I'm pretty sure I have pollen molecularly bonded to my paint for the next 6 months. I did the netshield on my white car, and missed a few places to polish off. It makes a nice base for the grime to stick to. Not sure what to do about that, probably just leave it until the netshield washes off. I didn't really like it, its like rain-x for your paint. Maybe I was putting it on wrong? I also got overspray all over my windows, so now they are rain-xed too. It looks funny on the black sections. It looks really good on the plastic parts. Would do well on a pontiac I guess.
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May 10, 2014 18:49
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Autozone has the Mothers headlight polishing kit on sale for $10 right now so I thought I'd give it a try. After doing one severely clouded and yellowed light it seems to provide better results than the 3M kits that is so popular. Its a little bit more work but the difference is pretty dramatic. Can anybody suggest a good UV sealant type product that can help prevent or at least slow the clouding process a little? I'm sick of having to do this every year and I would really hate replacing otherwise perfectly good headlight assemblies for what amounts to cosmetic reasons.
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May 10, 2014 19:10
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Can anybody suggest a good UV sealant type product that can help prevent or at least slow the clouding process a little? I'm sick of having to do this every year and I would really hate replacing otherwise perfectly good headlight assemblies for what amounts to cosmetic reasons. I always suggest lamin-x for this application. It's a protective film that also protects the lenses from physical damage in addition to UV.
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May 10, 2014 19:24
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blindjoe posted:I did the netshield on my white car, and missed a few places to polish off. It makes a nice base for the grime to stick to. I was doing it in small sections and buffing it out with a microfiber immediately after application. It buffed clear, but I've read if you let it dry it will be impossible to buff out without reapplying. My car is black, it made the black deeper, similar to waxing.
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May 10, 2014 20:16
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Continued my hellish wiring of my CJ7's dash. Figured out the cooling sender wont work with the new gauge and the old one is in a REALLY tough spot to get a wrench on, this is gonna suck. also realized that the illumination dimmer circuit's ground is different than the rest of the grounds on the harness, made it fun when i fired up the jeep with the dash half in, just to realize when i tested the lights that the tach and temp gauges went haywire, no damage thankfully.
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May 10, 2014 20:27
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Dipped my wheels. Bodys next.  Yay doing stuff to the ride is fun.
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May 10, 2014 21:12
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Well I'm pissed off. Had the wife take the Mazda5 to the dealer last week for an oil change. We have it done there cause I don't want to gently caress with that weird plastic cartridge thing and I really don't trust a goofy lube to do it right. Anyway, they try up-selling my wife on all sorts of poo poo which I sort out and they tell me the car will be ready for pickup when she comes to get it later that night. One of the upsells was a transmission flush. I'm not a fan of flushes and they want $250 for it, so I tell em I'll do a drain/fill this weekend. So it's the weekend. I hop under the car to discover the windage tray is loving gone. All the screws are missing, and I was under the car just the weekend prior to inspect the annoying sway bar end links that won't shut the hell up and know it was there. On the upside, draining the trans fluid was a lot easier cause I didn't have to remove the tray.
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May 11, 2014 00:16
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SOP for lube shops when the plastic splash shield is being an rear end in a top hat and you're already pissed off from getting the thing off.
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May 11, 2014 00:28
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BlackMK4 posted:SOP for lube shops when the plastic splash shield is being an rear end in a top hat and you're already pissed off from getting the thing off. I need new ones, no idea how to attach them or where to get replacements. Mine are cracked to hell and I assume let a lot of mud and crud get into the engine bay from the front wheels.
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May 11, 2014 00:59
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BlackMK4 posted:SOP for lube shops when the plastic splash shield is being an rear end in a top hat and you're already pissed off from getting the thing off. Well, mine was in great shape and not cracked out at all. Every fastener was correct and in place and it wasn't even caked up with crud or nothing either because I strive to take care of my poo poo. So I'm pissed.
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May 11, 2014 01:23
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One of our city parks has a solar farm, and an EV station. I used it for the first time while I ran a 5k. Pretty nifty!
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May 11, 2014 01:58
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trouser chili posted:Well, mine was in great shape and not cracked out at all. Every fastener was correct and in place and it wasn't even caked up with crud or nothing either because I strive to take care of my poo poo. So I'm pissed. Have you called them yet to have them correct this?
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May 11, 2014 02:00
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Took care of a nasty bit of oil dripping onto the headers, and drove the thing. Went to a local cruise-in, and drove home in the rain. Whee!
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May 11, 2014 02:12
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I think that's the smallest image I've seen on the Internet that wasn't a smiley or avatar since 2006.
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May 11, 2014 02:15
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Michael Scott posted:I think that's the smallest image I've seen on the Internet that wasn't a smiley or avatar since 2006. And it should contain the best part of the car, too. Those has the neatest dashes.
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May 11, 2014 04:30
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trouser chili posted:Well, mine was in great shape and not cracked out at all. Every fastener was correct and in place and it wasn't even caked up with crud or nothing either because I strive to take care of my poo poo. So I'm pissed. Will one of those Corksport aluminum skidplates fit on a Mazda 5?
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May 11, 2014 04:48
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Michael Scott posted:I think that's the smallest image I've seen on the Internet that wasn't a smiley or avatar since 2006. Install imagus or hoverzoom, if you're on Chrome.
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May 11, 2014 04:54
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Geirskogul posted:Install imagus or hoverzoom, if you're on Chrome. It's not linked to a larger size or hosted on Imgur, though. However, it appears that this is the fullsize: 
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May 11, 2014 06:36
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trouser chili posted:
I never found that tray to be much of an issue, to be fair. Which makes even less sense as to why they'd manage to 'miss' a piece of plastic that loving big.
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May 11, 2014 06:44
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Raluek posted:It's not linked to a larger size or hosted on Imgur, though. However, it appears that this is the fullsize: Imagus searches for a fullsize using standard naming formats and site-specific redirects, so hovering over the original's thumbnail gave me the big one. It's pretty cool and I forget what the Internet is like without it.
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May 11, 2014 07:05
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Got the dipstick and oil pan installed on the 5.3. Using the H3 Alpha pan from Current Performance. Now I'm shopping for a used 4L60e from a Silverado or Sierra that will match up to the 5.3. Waiting on a power washer to come in so I can clean up the garage floor and give the engine bay a bath before wire brushing and painting. Oh, and I put the old engine and trans in the back of the S10 for now. Hoist fell on me in the process (it's a folding one) but I got that bitch in there. I have jackstands under the frame to take the weight off the suspension. Don't want to lower the truck that way.
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May 11, 2014 13:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:I never found that tray to be much of an issue, to be fair. Which makes even less sense as to why they'd manage to 'miss' a piece of plastic that loving big. More tales of missing parts. 98 bmw. While having an alignment done my regular shop they pointed out that "there are oils leaks from an undetermined source" and offer to degrease my engine bay and throw some UV dye in the crankcase. I'm like no poo poo, it looks like the exxon valdez under there and you want to clean it up for $40 bucks? Sure. They call me and tell me it's ready. I get there and pop the hood; to degrease it looks like they sneezed on it with some brake cleaner, there are tools and bolts still under the hood, and the top cover is missing off of the engine. I walked back in and asked if they could put my car back together before I take it away. Then they quoted my $500 bucks to fix the 2 oil leaks at the valve cover gasket and the oil filter housing gasket. Not my regular shop anymore.
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May 11, 2014 13:19
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Geirskogul posted:Have you called them yet to have them correct this? No, they're closed till Monday so I get to steam about it all weekend. IOwnCalculus posted:I never found that tray to be much of an issue, to be fair. Which makes even less sense as to why they'd manage to 'miss' a piece of plastic that loving big. The tray is interesting. It has a large hole cast in it that seems to correspond with the oil filter, but they don't line up well enough. I don't remember if it interferes with the transmission drain hole or not, probably does. It's easy enough to remove though. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 13:57 on May 11, 2014 |
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May 11, 2014 13:51
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This explains why the big block was running rough.
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May 11, 2014 17:05
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wallaka posted:This explains why the big block was running rough.  I think you might have a headgasket leak.
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May 11, 2014 17:13
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I picked up a set of orange cab marker lights on clearance for $2. Now I have to get up the courage to drill into my truck's roof 
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May 11, 2014 18:32
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wallaka posted:This explains why the big block was running rough. That's a symptom, not an explanation.
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May 11, 2014 21:22
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Some of the valve seals are leaky. 46-year old rubber tends to develop cracks. It takes about a year to get this bad, so they're not too terrible. For as much as I drive the car, it's too much of a pain in the rear end to fix. It's a full-size car without tube headers so the spark plugs are easy to reach.
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May 11, 2014 23:30
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Turned 2 broken radios into 1 working radio. 
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May 12, 2014 03:27
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Geoj posted:I always suggest lamin-x for this application. It's a protective film that also protects the lenses from physical damage in addition to UV. Thanks! That looks like just the thing. It's a little pricey and they don't have the precut ones for my car but I'll still give it a try. There's not much that'll make a car look as lovely as cloudy lights so I try to keep on top of that.
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May 12, 2014 20:24
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QuarkMartial posted:I picked up a set of orange cab marker lights on clearance for $2. Now I have to get up the courage to drill into my truck's roof I've been looking for the 'right' set for my truck in the background as long as I've owned it. I know that once I get them though, I'll have the same cowardly reaction to drilling. I'm even afraid to ruin the headliner that's in 'such great shape'. edit: ok that's a lie, I know which ones I want I just am too cheap to buy all 5 knowing I'm afraid to drill them and I may never install. They're $20 each! Truck Lite 1319A. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 23:51 on May 12, 2014 |
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May 12, 2014 23:45
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