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Slavvy posted:Since when do you need to throttle off? I like push/pull. I've also had a carb spring break on me, so I may be biased.
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May 12, 2014 10:47
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HotCanadianChick posted:Also removed the seized up choke cable and tried starting it with the choke linkage held open with my finger and it fired right up first try on a completely cold engine... beginning to think I won't have to tear the carbs apart just yet, it was idling smooth and easy as long as I held the choke open, not nearly as bad as it was before when I was trying to get it going with no choke. Sounds suspiciously like you're compensating for clogged pilot jets. Try seafoam, but you might not be out of the carb woods yet.
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May 12, 2014 13:42
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Safety Dance posted:Sounds suspiciously like you're compensating for clogged pilot jets. Try seafoam, but you might not be out of the carb woods yet. Considering the night and day difference between holding the choke linkage open with my finger and not having any choke at all, and the fact that it idles fine with no choke once warm, maybe, maybe not. This was on a completely cold engine (more than 24 hrs since last ran); you have to give it some choke at startup before it warms up (I did not run it long enough for it to get warm, but previous times starting and running it it has smoothed out once warm)- fuel does not atomize well in cold air (it tends to form big droplets instead of a fine mist), so you need to add more fuel to provide sufficient surface area for enough vapor evaporation to occur so that the spark can set off the fuel. Even EFI engines use a cold duty cycle when freshly started to dump additional fuel, some do it with a cold start injector, some do it with a longer duty cycle on the main injectors. The choke is the cold start cycle for a carbureted engine.
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May 12, 2014 18:38
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Oh, ok. I misunderstood you. I thought you meant that idling was smooth with the choke open and bad with it closed.
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May 12, 2014 18:47
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Today while doing my first wheel removal my dad taught me that in the event you don't have 12mm allens, welding bolts to 12mm combo wrenches works just as well.
Oglogoth fucked around with this message at 01:37 on May 13, 2014 |
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May 13, 2014 01:33
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Traded it in. Goodnight sweet prince.
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May 13, 2014 01:45
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Digital_Jesus posted:Traded it in. Goodnight sweet prince. Traded up? Down? For guns? First and last are the only acceptable answers
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May 13, 2014 03:41
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OSU_Matthew posted:Traded up? Down? For guns? Crosspost from the Show your Bike thread: 
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May 13, 2014 03:45
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To be fair, an EBR toaster wouldn't have knobs that randomly fall off and doesn't need an oil change after every slice of toast. However, it does use specially designed heating filaments that completely surround the outside of the slice and can only be ordered NOS from shady third party Internet dealers.
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May 13, 2014 03:50
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Nah duder, ZTL toaster filaments are coming back. There's the $eleventyhundred racing toaster that's out now, and in a few short months the $reasonably priced adventure touring toaster that's going to show everyone who ever made fun of us! e. Also, the toast goes in the crumb tray and the power cord attaches on top.
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May 13, 2014 04:35
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Sunday: Backed my car out Wheeled the bike out Reparked my car Tried to start the bike No power (it kicked right over back in March) Swore Tried to bumpstart it in the parking garage Succeeded only in skidding the rear wheel Swore Backed my car out Turned the car off Got the jumper cables Took the seat off Hooked up the cables Nothing Hooked up the cables correctly Boosted the bike Took the cables off started the car parked the car put the seat on put my gear on got on the bike Left the garage Rode down street It's blocked for construction Rode down street the other way Noticed my mirror was jacked up from when I let it off the centerstand last time and it tapped the wall Fixed mirror Nudged killswitch while fixing mirror Tried to start bike No power Swore Walked bike across intersection and onto sidewalk Start walking it home Downhill Sit on bike and waddle it downhill Try bumpstarting it CHUG Chug chug pop Try it again but faster CHUG CHUG CHUG chug pop Third time's the fuckin' charm CHUG CHUG CHUG CHUG CHUGCHUGCHUGCHUG VROOM Get off the sidewalk Baby it home Turn off the bike Pull the car out Park the bike Throw my gear in the car Go run errands I had planned to run on the bike Pull battery that evening Trickle charge it overnight Waiting til Thursday to see if I need a new battery
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May 13, 2014 15:21
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haha
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May 13, 2014 15:55
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What I've found is if you think you might need a new battery, you need a new battery
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May 13, 2014 16:08
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slidebite posted:haha Yeah, I know. There's no plugins in the garage but I should have just yanked it earlier this winter. *mopes, kicks stone*
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May 13, 2014 16:22
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Scrubbed the wax off the chain (yuck), put on some teflon lube, adjusted the suspension, got some road tar off, went zoooooooooom.
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May 14, 2014 02:04
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Changed the engine and primary oil. Lifters are much quieter, clutch engages smoother, like magic. The bike started to pop and spit a little lately so I reset the tps too, but I must have messed something up because now it does it more and runs like it's lean; surging and abrupt throttle transitions.
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May 14, 2014 06:10
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Well it took a month, but. 1964 Honda S90 (now a S90 Benly) - Engine rebuild - Carb rebuild - Coil rebuild - Repaint - New tank panels - Revert to stock headlight assembly with new headlight and speedo. - Rechromed fenders - New exhaust - Repaint - Fixed gas cap leak - General rechrome and polish       Total damage: $600 Backov fucked around with this message at 06:46 on May 14, 2014 |
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May 14, 2014 06:39
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Nice.
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May 14, 2014 07:01
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clutchpuck posted:Changed the engine and primary oil. Lifters are much quieter, clutch engages smoother, like magic. Buell.txt I'msorrydon'thurtme.
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May 14, 2014 07:47
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My friend's '07 has a collapsed lifter or bad pushrod or mangled cam or something. I'll take a re-do on my TPS over any of that.
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May 14, 2014 15:24
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I sold my Cobra Cycle R6 and bought a 2014 Yamaha FZ1 because screw ABS/Traction control and I am a Yamaha whore 
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May 15, 2014 02:31
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Fixed my lovely tps job. Took off the intake so I could see it zero. Bike's never felt better (I say this every time). Lots of miles discovery: the push cable is fraying... time to give Al at American sport bike a call. Might as well get a new clutch cable too.
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May 15, 2014 03:55
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Crayvex posted:I sold my Cobra Cycle R6 and bought a 2014 Yamaha FZ1 because screw ABS/Traction control and I am a Yamaha whore That can looks so...monolithic.
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May 15, 2014 06:38
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Slavvy posted:That can looks so...monolithic. It's surprisingly loud for a stock can too. Mine's louder than the Yoshi slipon my coworker's VFR800 has. Also, this makes, what, 3? 4? FZ1 riders here now? Goongrats on the new bike, Crayvex.
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May 15, 2014 09:04
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HotCanadianChick posted:It's surprisingly loud for a stock can too. Mine's louder than the Yoshi slipon my coworker's VFR800 has. I absolutely love it. This was the bike that I both wanted and needed. What's the Goon consensus on hard luggage for these things?
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May 15, 2014 17:49
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Crayvex posted:I absolutely love it. This was the bike that I both wanted and needed. What's the Goon consensus on hard luggage for these things? $$$$ Givi makes racks and cases, and SW-Motech makes racks to mount a bunch of other brands (including Pelican), but either way you're spending around $800-1000 for racks plus side and tail cases. Post pics when you get them, it's the dirty little secret that the FZ1 is one of the best small touring bikes out there for the money. They'll eat thousands and thousands of highway miles like nothing.
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May 15, 2014 17:55
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Yeah it's going to cost some cash. The Happy-Trail rack and Pelican (Caribou) boxes I got for the Uly cost me about $600 in the end.
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May 15, 2014 17:57
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Money is no object. I have read that in Canada/Europe you can order from Yamaha a bracket that allows you to mount the FJR bags. Bah, maybe Givi is the way to go. Will saddle bags interfere with riding with a passenger?
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May 15, 2014 18:29
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Crayvex posted:Money is no object. I am very excited to be able to say this some time soon maybe.
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May 15, 2014 19:11
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Crayvex posted:Money is no object. I have read that in Canada/Europe you can order from Yamaha a bracket that allows you to mount the FJR bags. They shouldn't, though with larger bags your pillion might be touching the bags with their thighs/calves, and maybe have some difficulty swinging a leg over.
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May 15, 2014 19:58
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Swapped out the clutch plates & springs, which also means I did an oil change. Installed my new grips, too.
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May 16, 2014 03:53
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I replaced the chain on my '80 Honda CM400 today. I'm doubting in its 34 year life time it has ever gotten replaced... or even cleaned.  It only has 7500 miles so that's how it has gone so long but seriously, I don't think my hands have ever been so dirty before.Also I got my safety inspection, registration, and insurance for the year. My bike is legal again! 
NorskHotDog fucked around with this message at 04:57 on May 16, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 04:54
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My license plate broke and was flapping around by a single zip tie. It turns out that all you need to fix it is a nail, 3 beers, a flat head drill bit, and another zip tie. I hope modifying a license plate isn't illegal in Texas 
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May 16, 2014 15:17
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Marxalot posted:My license plate broke and was flapping around by a single zip tie. I'm gonna be drilling holes in my plates to remove the retarded looking mounting bracket that KTM gives you. NY doesn't require you to turn in your plates for motorcycles though.
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May 16, 2014 17:04
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Finally sand blasted my frame, swingarm, and some miscellaneous parts. I used copper slag so it has a little ~shine~ 
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May 17, 2014 02:06
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I bolted a handlebar ram mount on this afternoon. It didn't take long for me to miss my steering stem ram mount from my old R6.
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May 17, 2014 20:36
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We replaced the (rubber) engine mounts on my dad's Sportster; the swingarm is attached to the engine and he felt the rear was handling squirrely. We already had the rear wheel out so it wasn't that bad a job, just removing a lot of random BS and then supporting the engine on two bottle jacks and tilting it and wiggling the mounts juuuust right to let them slip out, and the new ones in. Can't complain though, not a single stripped bolt or anything rusted, everything on those bikes is stainless. The old mounts were pretty saggy, he's thinking of just jacking up the engine when he's letting the bike sit in the future  Also topped up my oil, probably for naught, as many Buells have the issue of it running to the 'fill' mark and staying there.
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May 17, 2014 20:43
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Yeah mine throws it out the breather until it gets down to about 2mm above the fill line and sits there. I think the deal is it expands a lot due to how hot it gets, and the additional hot "over-filled" volume gets vented. I try not to fill it past about 1/4 between fill and full. I sort of wish the dipstick had a cold line and a hot line.
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May 17, 2014 20:55
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Yeah and I get pretty inconsistent levels checking it as well, really depends on the temperature it seems, and how long it's been run. Also you no doubt already know this but it drains back really really quickly, if I intend to check the level I put some TP in my jacket pocket before I go riding and then afterwards hop off and immediately check it. Going inside, opening up the garage, getting a rag and checking it then yields a much lower level. There wasn't a lot of oil in the air filter housing though, everything was just slightly coated in a thin film.
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May 17, 2014 21:01
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Doesn't it drain back into the swing arm though? That's the low point in the system. It shouldn't settle in the crank case on a dry sump system as far as I know. I figure as long as you're consistent with how you check and fill, that's what's important.
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May 17, 2014 21:47
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