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690 has had a trellis for ages and the engine hasn't changed, except for bore/stroke in the latest 690CC variant. Whats wrong with a trellis? They make skid plates just like they do for every dirt bike/motard. I've watched Gullous jump his 690 and case it, wheelie it into trees, crash at hilarious speeds off road... they are tough. KTM used that chassis to win the Dakar how many times? Theyre up to 11 or 12 wins in a row now. Until Dakar banned it, the 690 engine was running.
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# ? May 12, 2014 20:06 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 00:47 |
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/4464296793.html Hrm maybe I should buy that. 08 SMC for 5.2k with 11k miles.
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# ? May 12, 2014 20:26 |
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Spiffness posted:690 has had a trellis for ages and the engine hasn't changed, except for bore/stroke in the latest 690CC variant. Whats wrong with a trellis? You're right, I'm just being stupid. TBH I'm just jealous and can't afford a 690 until I get a real engineering job.
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# ? May 12, 2014 20:42 |
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Yerok posted:You're right, I'm just being stupid. TBH I'm just jealous and can't afford a 690 until I get a real engineering job. I don't know your being sarcastic but I really wasn't insulting your intelligence. I had some questions about its durability until I saw how Gullous rides his. I came to the same conclusion that trellis doesn't mean scary myself.
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# ? May 12, 2014 21:16 |
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Z3n posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/4464296793.html
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# ? May 12, 2014 23:12 |
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Seriously, people just don't look hard enough. Even with 500 bucks to ship it anywhere in the US via UShip, that's still a good deal.
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# ? May 12, 2014 23:43 |
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Aaaand, its gone! Its a KTM 690 though, so expect it back on CL within the day.
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# ? May 13, 2014 04:23 |
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The hardest part of 690 ownership is getting into the resale ecosystem.
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# ? May 13, 2014 04:35 |
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Z3n posted:Seriously, people just don't look hard enough. Even with 500 bucks to ship it anywhere in the US via UShip, that's still a good deal. Yeah but then you have the sketchiness and hassle of buying a bike you've never even looked at from someone 1kmi away that you never met.
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# ? May 13, 2014 04:54 |
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Yeah so like I figured the 690 SMC is the best bet if you have the cash. DRZ is more ideal for pure city riding. My 690 SM was real smooth on the highway. Apparently the seating position and suspension isn't as aggressive as the SMC so it's a better highway ride all around. About a year or two ago I'd see 690 SMCs for 5-6k with high miles. But now that KTM stopped selling them it seems the price has jumped 7-8k+ is the minimum around here. That 5.2k one you linked is ridiculously cheap! (post deleted, haha) No one seems to care about the duke at all. I don't think I've ever seen one on the road. Seems like a pretty fun bike. Sometimes they show up on craigslist with really good deals. I know the 2007+ KTMs improved reliability quite a bit. I really doubt that'd be a concern these days. That LC4 is loving bulletproof. I think I'll eventually get a 690 SMC in the future.
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# ? May 13, 2014 05:59 |
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Spiffness posted:I don't know your being sarcastic but I really wasn't insulting your intelligence. I had some questions about its durability until I saw how Gullous rides his. I'm 100% serious. It is also nice to hear testimonials about the ability of the 690 to slam into a tree.
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# ? May 13, 2014 08:22 |
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The frame is actually a good deal more expensive to replace than the engine casings on the SMC, labour notwithstanding. A damaged frame would pretty much mean an automatic write-off here so I'm glad it's not hanging out there. Additionally If you have a solid metal bash plate on it will throw all the force into the (easily replaced) alloy engine hangers. It's a seriously well engineered bike.
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# ? May 13, 2014 12:50 |
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I'm never sure I have the right chain slack after buying a sumo. The swingarm flexes so much that, when I'm off, it looks loose, and when I'm on, it looks tight. I generally try to find a spot in the middle but
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# ? May 13, 2014 22:02 |
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epalm posted:I'm never sure I have the right chain slack after buying a sumo. The swingarm flexes so much that, when I'm off, it looks loose, and when I'm on, it looks tight. I generally try to find a spot in the middle but I just had to adjust mine almost a week ago. I think the spec for a DRZ was 1.5-2" without anyone on it, if that helps.
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# ? May 14, 2014 06:09 |
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Got the MCCT for my DRZ in the mail. I've seen a tutorial here and a video there. 1) Do I really need to knock the top off and rotate to TDC? 2) Do I really need to remove the exhaust pipe? I'll do it if it needs doing, but does it need doing?
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# ? May 16, 2014 01:30 |
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Hey in case y'all are interested--and who isn't--there's a rather nice 690 SMC in Cali and not only is it a 2009, but it also has only 4,200 miles. AND it's just under 7 large. If I had a spare 8 grand I would be so on top of this fly and ride. Cycle Trader e: does not have the boss orange wheels, sorry
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# ? May 16, 2014 01:49 |
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epalm posted:Got the MCCT for my DRZ in the mail. I've seen a tutorial here and a video there. 1: yes. You want the piston and valves to be at the top of the compression stroke so the valve springs are fully extended ideally, otherwise you want the cam gears in a known position so if the chain jumps a tooth while you have the tensioner off you notice before piston meets valves. You might be able to get away with using an inspection camera through the spark plug hole. 2: probably not. I think that's just an ease of access thing.
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# ? May 16, 2014 02:19 |
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captainOrbital posted:Hey in case y'all are interested--and who isn't--there's a rather nice 690 SMC in Cali and not only is it a 2009, but it also has only 4,200 miles. AND it's just under 7 large. If I had a spare 8 grand I would be so on top of this fly and ride. I dig the paint scheme
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# ? May 16, 2014 03:25 |
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Yeah, it looks good with more black and less orange
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# ? May 16, 2014 04:01 |
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epalm posted:Got the MCCT for my DRZ in the mail. I've seen a tutorial here and a video there. When is the last time you checked your valve clearances? I waited until I checked the valves to install mine (your valves probably won't need adjustment but you should check them)
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:01 |
epalm posted:Got the MCCT for my DRZ in the mail. I've seen a tutorial here and a video there. Just leave the bike in gear, don't move it and then swap them out. I've done it on at least four separate bikes before without making sure it's at TDC and it's always been fine. It's way more important in my opinion to make sure you don't over tighten it. Tighten it til the noise goes away and then back it off just a tad to make sure you're not putting undue pressure and strain on the guides. I don't recall if I had to take the header off to do it but it's only a few bolts if that's the case.
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:10 |
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^ I can vouch for this nerd being able to install a MCCT without making bikes implode. That said all of the things you said only involve a few bolts anyways so it's not like any of that is a huge deal. I should really get around to that whole valve checking thing, but it's kind of hard when you're working 60-80hr weeks. Thankfully it's just a DRZ and even at 11kmi it's probably just fine.
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:10 |
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The Rally Raid MCCT for the 690 said to drop the loving engine to put it in just because it's slightly obscured by the frame. On top of putting the bike at TDC, taking off the alternator cover and locking the crank with a bolt. I'm 100% sure all manufacturers of MCCTs say this poo poo just to cover their asses in case. I just did it with a low profile socket on a universal joint and short extension bar EDIT: BTW I wouldn't put the bike in gear, you're only going to gently caress it up if the crank rotates and somehow hops a tooth on the sprocket at either end while the chain is slack. If the bike is in neutral there is nothing to move the crank if you nudge the bike. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:45 on May 16, 2014 |
# ? May 16, 2014 15:40 |
I don't see where it's going to go if it's in gear? This is honestly one of the simplest things you can do to a bike.. it's 5 seconds of unbolting and bolting in the new one. There's no need to move the bike at any point during this process. Obviously I'm not advocating being a fool and jabbing at the starter while the CCT is out or rolling it all around your garage but just leave the bike sit there and change it and you'll have no problems.
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:54 |
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I just pulled the old ACCT out, put the new MCCT in and set the tension per ThumperTalks recommendations. No TDC, no valve cover off, no bike in gear, nothing. Its not that big of a deal, just dont hit the starter while the tensioner is out.
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# ? May 16, 2014 17:37 |
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So, uh, any bad things about just getting a new Duke 690? Cause I went and looked and sat on them today, and kinda fell in love.
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# ? May 16, 2014 22:04 |
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I've never ridden one but they seem highly underated. I don't think I've actually seen one on the streets. They look like tons of fun. Not to mention a lot cheaper than the SMC used
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# ? May 16, 2014 22:14 |
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iwentdoodie posted:So, uh, any bad things about just getting a new Duke 690? Cause I went and looked and sat on them today, and kinda fell in love. I did the same thing when I did the same thing. They're so compact and pretty and just feel right. There's a couple of KTM ride events near Chicago coming up. Not that it matters because my KTM/Duc dealer keeps offering me test-rides every time I walk in as if they were a car dealer.
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# ? May 16, 2014 22:14 |
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Who's your dealer? I can't go anywhere this weekend (I'm on call), but it might be fun to go ogle some bikes.
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# ? May 16, 2014 22:31 |
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iwentdoodie posted:So, uh, any bad things about just getting a new Duke 690? Cause I went and looked and sat on them today, and kinda fell in love. Its rad.
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# ? May 16, 2014 22:46 |
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Safety Dance posted:Who's your dealer? I can't go anywhere this weekend (I'm on call), but it might be fun to go ogle some bikes. It's called MCC Motor Cycle Center: They're in Lake Villa or Villa Park or something, which is just on the other side of O'Hare from me, and since I live on la loma del culo, it's relatively close to me. You could take the Ike north to St. Charles and go west from there. I like the place; they sell KTM and Ducati, of course, and also Triumphs and MVs. Oh, and EBRs and I think Nortons? Their used selection is really interesting too. This weekend might suck for weather, but I might head over there at some point as well. I usually talk to James. He's a cool guy, and has a short guy's perspective on bikes, which is nice to hear.
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# ? May 16, 2014 23:22 |
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captainOrbital posted:
When I was looking at the Duke today, the salesman was like 5'5, and I'm 6'-6'1. He was saying how tall it is, then looked sad when I drat near was flat foot with both feet.
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# ? May 17, 2014 00:56 |
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Well drat, I'm not a tall dude, but I was able to flatfoot the Duke, if you know what I mean. If it was a 1190 Adventure or something I could understand.
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# ? May 17, 2014 01:07 |
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captainOrbital posted:Well drat, I'm not a tall dude, but I was able to flatfoot the Duke, if you know what I mean. I can get balls of both feet down on the 1190. The Duke was flat and then all but my heels on the floor. With actual riding pants in instead of 501s it would've been flat.
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# ? May 17, 2014 01:44 |
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iwentdoodie posted:With actual riding pants in instead of 501s it would've been flat. iwentdoodie posted:501s Have we started calling Levis by their style number now?
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# ? May 17, 2014 09:14 |
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ChewedFood posted:Have we started calling Levis by their style number now? I'm not sure how everyone else calls them, but ever since we were kids we called them by whatever style number they were. Talking about stock Levi's regardless of style were always referred to as 501s as that was the most popular style. Unless I completely missed something during that exchange.
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# ? May 17, 2014 11:20 |
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ChewedFood posted:Have we started calling Levis by their style number now? Yes? It's how you describe the jeans, because there's like 90 kinds.
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# ? May 17, 2014 14:41 |
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Oh, well maybe I'm the weird one.
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# ? May 17, 2014 16:51 |
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What's the best way to make sure aftermarket DRZ levers have the extra bit that hits the brake switch? Make sure it says that it fits the 400S/SM? I just want some basic shorty levers. I have a set of Sunline ones but someone filed that nub off
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# ? May 18, 2014 02:50 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 00:47 |
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Deeters posted:What's the best way to make sure aftermarket DRZ levers have the extra bit that hits the brake switch? Make sure it says that it fits the 400S/SM? Not sure, but I bought some http://zeta-racing.com/lever/pivot_lever_cp/index.html off of Baller Witness Bro a week ago and they fit perfectly. Only thing I had to reuse was the spring on the brake lever.
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# ? May 18, 2014 03:09 |