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I would never rallycross a new car. It beats the hell out of it
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May 15, 2014 23:25
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I'm about to buy a 2003 outback, 4 cylinder, 2.5L engine. Can a timing belt replacement be done by aligning everything off of TDC, or will I need a timing light?
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May 16, 2014 06:21
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There are marks on the belt, crank, and cam pulleys. You do not use TDC (the arrow on the crank pulley) or a timing light.
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May 16, 2014 06:28
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A picture of my car in last week's RallyX in Vermont. My best run happened when I had to replace a debeaded tire with a summer radial I guess I need to dial it back a bit. 
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May 16, 2014 16:19
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Some oval office threw a rock at my car tonight and shattered the rear windshield. According to the cops they have had a lot of reports of it happening in that exact spot. For fucks sake I've had it like 2 weeks.
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May 16, 2014 16:32
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Some oval office threw a rock at my car tonight and shattered the rear windshield. According to the cops they have had a lot of reports of it happening in that exact spot. Wow, that blows. Do you have glass coverage on your insurance?
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May 16, 2014 17:55
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BoyBlunder posted:Wow, that blows. Do you have glass coverage on your insurance? I don't know. I have comprehensive but not paid for, I just called the insurance company my mum used to work for and got insurance with them. They do a 14 day free thing that hasn't expired yet (I didn't ring up until last week), and they send you a bill at the end of that which you either pay to continue cover or let lapse. I got that so I was covered while I shopped around for the best deal. I don't know if the cost to fix it will be more or less than the excess, and I don't know if I'll have to pay the insurance company or not for the policy. I don't want to go with that company, they are expensive as gently caress and won't cover mods without making it a shitton more expensive. I still don't know how it happened, I was doing 70kmh(44mph) at the time. It would have had to be a slingshot, I really doubt it was thrown. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 18:06 on May 16, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 18:03
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2005 blobeye, is the antenna still on the rear windshield? I drove home with the radio on last night so I dont think it is, but I need to know to replace it.
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May 17, 2014 00:45
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Any suggestions for a used TD04 turbo outside of the usual places? Doesn't seem to be a huge supply of them like there was a few years ago.
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May 17, 2014 01:00
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LordOfThePants posted:Any suggestions for a used TD04 turbo outside of the usual places? Doesn't seem to be a huge supply of them like there was a few years ago. Unfortunately I don't have any useful advice but I was just curious why you're sticking with the TD04? I'm still with the TD04 on my 06 but i'm curious if there are any other turbos one could use with the stock injectors and fuel pump that are any better.
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May 17, 2014 01:06
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Hollis Brown posted:Unfortunately I don't have any useful advice but I was just curious why you're sticking with the TD04? I'm still with the TD04 on my 06 but i'm curious if there are any other turbos one could use with the stock injectors and fuel pump that are any better. In about a week my Forester is going from "fun daily driver" to "reliable transportation" as I'm taking delivery of a considerably higher performance car that I will drive for half of the year. The Forester will be for winter driving and for driving to the airport. So not really trying to get more performance out of the Forester. From what I've read, most larger turbos require switching to a larger intercooler. I suspect my turbo is failing and just want to swap it out for something with lower miles. This will be turbo #3 for this car, I have no idea why I'm killing them. I have no banjo bolt oil filters and I change my oil every 3000 miles.
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May 17, 2014 01:25
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jamal posted:There are marks on the belt, crank, and cam pulleys. You do not use TDC (the arrow on the crank pulley) or a timing light. Awesome, even easier. And what's the part number for the MLS gasket on a 2003 Outback?
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May 17, 2014 01:34
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11044AA642
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May 17, 2014 03:20
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Thanks!
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May 17, 2014 04:16
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I know America and Australia have very different pricing but what would be a fair price for the windshield in America? It's Saturday so a lot of places are closed but I was quoted 618 from one place without labour for an antennaless windshield (the wrong one) which they instantly lowered to 525 when I said no. Another company said 283 installed + 35-90 if they can't reuse the rubbers, the guy on the phone wasn't sure. Subaru said 1500.
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May 17, 2014 04:58
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You're looking at around $500 for OEM. If you have upsidedown junkyards over there, you might have some luck, if AU's anything like I imagine it is.
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May 17, 2014 11:10
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So my 2001 Forester Automatic is making strange noises when I shift from Park to Drive. Or from Drive to reverse. It's one clunk, and that's it. Then it drives pretty normal. Any ideas?
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May 17, 2014 16:59
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Tossed my ej251 into the back of my jeep to start doing the HGs. Get to torquing the last bolt in sequence to 51ftlbs and....it spins. I was too disgusted to check to see if it was the bolt or block that failed, so i just closed the tailgate and hatch and went inside.
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May 17, 2014 18:33
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I am changing the pads and rotors on my '07 WRX and one piston on each wheel absolutely will not compress. I've used a C clamp, penetrating oil, bled the brakes a little, I have no idea what else to do.
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May 17, 2014 23:04
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Fifty Three posted:I am changing the pads and rotors on my '07 WRX and one piston on each wheel absolutely will not compress. I've used a C clamp, penetrating oil, bled the brakes a little, I have no idea what else to do. Get some reman calipers? Sounds like they are seized up
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May 17, 2014 23:13
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Maybe it needs to be rotated as it's pressed in. You can rent the proper kits from a lot of parts stores.
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May 17, 2014 23:28
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I've gotten the P0021 code a couple of times in the last month on my 2005 Forester XT. The first time, I changed the oil (was within 500 miles of needing it anyway) and cleaned the drivers side oil control valve solenoid. No codes for 1500 miles but it definitely felt like the car would occasionally be running rough. Most recently, it's getting worse. Threw the code again, this time after shaking pretty strongly at idle. RPMs were steady, but the whole car was shaking like the engine was out of balance. Cleaned the solenoid valve again, and cleared the code. Drove around some more and it threw the code again, exactly as before. After some time, it seemed to clear itself up and didn't act up the rest of the day. Got home and had the P0021 code set as well as pending misfire codes on cylinder 1 and 4. After the first code, I sent an oil sample to Blackstone who found only a slightly higher amount of fuel in the oil compared to normal. Everything else looked fine. From what I've read, this is one of two things. 1) The oil control solenoid is bad and in need of replacement 2) Turbo has poo poo itself and is sending metal throughout my engine, soon to grenade it. Generally what I've read is that it's usually #2. I have no banjo bolt screens, so it's unlikely that's what killed the turbo. Guys replace those valves and later on something more catastrophic happens. I've pretty much made up my mind that I'm going to trade it in on something else. I just finished swapping everything back to stock (I was at Stage 2 with a catted downpipe and an AP tune). Couldn't really inspect the turbo with the downpipe off, although it spins freely and doesn't appear to have shaft play. Seemed to boost OK when I was datalogging a few weeks ago. Before I totally throw in the towel, wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts of what else to try? I don't want to throw a ton of money at this right now unless it will fix it. My big fear is I drop a few hundred bucks on parts and then blow the engine a couple months down the road.
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May 19, 2014 01:33
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I was looking at getting an aem intake for my 2014, and I found one locally used. The guy says he ran it for 10k miles on his STI and took it off because he was trading it in and put it back to stock. It comes with the inlet sock as well, and I could get it for around half the price a new one would be. Should I do it, or bite the bullet and get a new one?
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May 19, 2014 02:17
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Thorpe posted:I was looking at getting an aem intake for my 2014, and I found one locally used. The guy says he ran it for 10k miles on his STI and took it off because he was trading it in and put it back to stock. It comes with the inlet sock as well, and I could get it for around half the price a new one would be. Should I do it, or bite the bullet and get a new one? Buying used intakes isn't really a bad idea. However on that year you will need a tune for it.
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May 19, 2014 06:05
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They aren't expensive to begin with, so take a look at the condition for any flaws before biting down. What other parts do you have on the vehicle?
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May 19, 2014 06:06
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Thorpe posted:I've done a few things to my car in the past week and would like to catalog them here, mostly for shits and giggles. Also because forums like NASIOC scare me. Is the sound quality of calls improved at all?
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May 19, 2014 22:30
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Ezrem posted:Is the sound quality of calls improved at all? My side of things do sound a bit better, but I do get complaints that I'm hard to hear on the other end unless I'm shouting pretty loud. And that's with stock exhaust and windows up. So, I'd rare it usable but not ideal.
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May 19, 2014 23:42
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Thorpe posted:My side of things do sound a bit better, but I do get complaints that I'm hard to hear on the other end unless I'm shouting pretty loud. And that's with stock exhaust and windows up. So, I'd rare it usable but not ideal. Even chances it's the mic killing you there; I'm not sure any car has good mic hardware and/or placement from the factory.
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May 20, 2014 01:11
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Looks like my friend is managing to snag one of the last remaining 5 door new WRX's in the country. His 2011 was totaled this weekend by a deer and he was freaking out because of the lack of hatch for 2015. His dealer managed to find a brand new 2014 5 door of even the same color and trim level as his old one. I know I did a search for a 500 mile radius and wasn't able to find one earlier today. He wasn't even sure what he would have gotten otherwise since the current model WRX is out of the running being sedan only and lacking the hard-points for the crossbars.
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May 20, 2014 22:45
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Finally picked up my 2015 WRX today, replacing my 2011 which was totalled back in March. Then it started to hail. 
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May 20, 2014 23:30
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bull3964 posted:one of the last remaining 5 door new WRX's in the country. 
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May 21, 2014 00:02
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I'm looking at buying a used Impreza hatchback soon... first post in the thread indicates that I should look for 2010 or newer ones to avoid the headgasket issues. I'd be looking for a five speed otherwise. Anything else interesting to know about these cars aside from the normal stuff?
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May 21, 2014 00:38
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At first glance I really like the new front end which means something is wrong with Subaru.
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May 21, 2014 02:48
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8ender posted:At first glance I really like the new front end which means something is wrong with Subaru. Nah, it's got kind of a FAS look to it, all's well. 
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May 21, 2014 02:50
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Fifty Three posted:This is incredibly We looked at BRZs for my wife when we were shopping her a new car a few weeks back. The Subaru dealership had a 2012 WRX 5-door on the lot with 22k miles and they were asking 27k for the thing. Not sure if it's due to the increasing scarcity or if it was just overpriced for the sake of being overpriced. They also had a white 2015 STi on display, and I have to say the new front-end has grown on me. Don't care for the new wheels though.
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May 21, 2014 02:56
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Linux Nazi posted:They also had a white 2015 STi on display, and I have to say the new front-end has grown on me. Don't care for the new wheels though. Agree about the front end and wheels. rear end end is underwhelming too - it just looks so boring.
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May 21, 2014 12:01
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I am currently contemplating replacing my oem HU in my 2013 wrx sedan. Im trying to find some install/compatability info but nasioc is not cooperating with my cell atm. Heres what Im trying figure out: Is there a worthwile difference in only replacing the headunit? What adapters will I need aside from the ascw-1 for the steering wheel controls? (Mostly concerned with retaining bluetooth use for calls/streaming) Any suggestions on a good unit that doesnt cost $rape? Preferrably a double din
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May 21, 2014 13:11
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TheFargate posted:I am currently contemplating replacing my oem HU in my 2013 wrx sedan. Im trying to find some install/compatability info but nasioc is not cooperating with my cell atm. Heres what Im trying figure out: I have this Alpine ICS-X7HD in my 2014 STi, and without changing the speakers yet the sound is already infinitely better on both music and podcasts. I purchased the required harness for the steering wheel controls, and everything works perfectly. The head unit was $599 US. edit: Here's a (bad) picture of it in dash at night. 
whoisjasonk fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 16:22
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Whats the best way to remove the crank pully on a DOHC engine? Read a couple instances where the P0021 code I am getting could be caused by the timing belt skipping a tooth on one of the pulleys so I want to check it before I completely give up on the car. I have the 4EAT transmission so I can't put it in fifth and have someone stand on the brake,which seems to be the standard advice online.
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May 22, 2014 03:25
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What would be the best bang for my buck in terms of front rotors and pads for an 03 WRX. I'd also be looking at rear pads. The rear rotors are new brembo blanks, but the pads at all corners and the front rotors are pretty close to toast, and it's already up on jack stands to install konis. It'd be on a commuter that would see some spirited use, but no rally/autox.
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May 22, 2014 05:48
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