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LordOfThePants posted:Whats the best way to remove the crank pully on a DOHC engine? Read a couple instances where the P0021 code I am getting could be caused by the timing belt skipping a tooth on one of the pulleys so I want to check it before I completely give up on the car. 2 3/8ths extensions will fit in two of the 4 holes nicely. I stick a long prybar between then to hold the pulley still.
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May 22, 2014 11:26
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TheFargate posted:I am currently contemplating replacing my oem HU in my 2013 wrx sedan. Im trying to find some install/compatability info but nasioc is not cooperating with my cell atm. Heres what Im trying figure out: There is a difference in sound quality from just replacing the HU, but it's more of an incremental improvement, not a night and day change in sound quality. I'm by no means an audiphile, but that's my impression after I swapped my navi HU for an Appradio 3 on my 2013 STi. Mind you I swapped my HU primarily for the phone mirroring option of the Appradio 3, the slight boost in sound quality was a nice side effect. Here's a lovely dark picture of my HU:  If you root your phone and it's capable of HDMI out in some form (Slimport or MHL usb to HDMI), then after a lot of loving around your HU becomes your phone's touch screen with the appradio. Without rooting your HU simply displays your phone's screen. As far as adapters, it really depends on what HU you have. My car came with the factory navigation option and my HU was made by Fujitsu Ten and actually uses a Toyota 10 + 6 connector, so I needed a Toyota Harness instead of one of the several Subaru harnesses. I think there's some Pioneer variants out there with other connectors. I used ae64.com to get all the adapters I needed: - 10 + 6 Pin Toyota Harness - ASWC-1 with a harness (if you don't want to solder your SWC directly to the factory wiring) - Antenna adapter - USB adapter (for the USB port in your center console) Additionally I ordered a JDM bezel because the stock HU is larger than the standard double-DIN size and there was a 1/2 inch gap on either side of my appradio with the stock bezel. Also I picked up a parking brake bypass relay, because the appradio locks out most of its features when the parking brake isn't engaged. I picked up the appradio 3 (Pioneer SPH-DA210) for $360 on amazon. It doesn't have all the audiophile features of some of the more expensive models, but it gets the job done. It does come with a mic for calls that I mounted on the steering wheel column and people seem to think I sound better than before, although the road noise from going 80+Mph overwhelms both this and the stock mic. After a couple weeks, even with the better sound quality with the new HU, I still wanted more low end so I threw in dual 10" JL audio subs in the hatch paired with an amp I mounted under the driver's seat. 
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May 22, 2014 14:17
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Simkin posted:What would be the best bang for my buck in terms of front rotors and pads for an 03 WRX. I'd also be looking at rear pads. The rear rotors are new brembo blanks, but the pads at all corners and the front rotors are pretty close to toast, and it's already up on jack stands to install konis. It'd be on a commuter that would see some spirited use, but no rally/autox. Centric premium rotors with stoptech pads.
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May 22, 2014 14:25
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I installed a Alpine KTP-445U amp with one of those harnesses that that harness guy (can't remember his name right now) makes. I have the low end head unit, and going into the secret menu and changing everything to passthrough + the amp have improved things quite a bit. Locally connected audio sounds a lot better, and I do notice that the tweeters seem to be more involved and there are better lows as well. FM radio sucks a lot though, and I blame the fact that we don't have real antennas, but rather the micro antenna with the antenna booster. FM is just washed out. Speakers are in my future, but I would recommend this as a cheaper solution if you don't want to do a whole audio install.
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May 22, 2014 14:32
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Ae64.com is the harness guy. Lots of useful information on his site too. When I switched headunits on my 2013 Crosstrek it made such a big difference I almost wished I'd skipped doing the rest of the speakers. My understanding is that, at some point, they started putting a factory EQ into the stock headunit that'd help keep you from blowing something, but also make it sound even worse than it would be normally.
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May 22, 2014 15:43
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Slow is Fast posted:Centric premium rotors with stoptech pads. Huh. Nothing fancy like drilled/slotted/engraved with pictures of Petter Soldberg? Is there a decent/reputable online source for centric rotors? I have a feeling that NAPA may stock them, but they aren't always willing to disclose who the manufacturers are of their in-house product.
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May 22, 2014 17:37
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Simkin posted:Huh. Nothing fancy like drilled/slotted/engraved with pictures of Petter Soldberg? Is there a decent/reputable online source for centric rotors? I have a feeling that NAPA may stock them, but they aren't always willing to disclose who the manufacturers are of their in-house product. It's really hard to beat Amazon's prices. Last time I ordered I went through KNS Brakes, they were willing to match Amazon's price & give free shipping. Don't know if they'll consistently do that though.
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May 22, 2014 17:38
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Tirerack also sells centric rotors. They ship insanely fast too.
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May 22, 2014 18:02
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RockAuto has Centrics for stupid cheap, even cheaper than Amazon. If you have Prime, though, Amazon will be the same price with faster shipping.
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May 22, 2014 18:06
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I do too but probably can't match amazon or rockauto.
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May 22, 2014 18:06
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Adding to what others have said- I recently ordered pads and rotors from rockauto. They were much cheaper than everywhere else, and it took about a week for them to arrive. Usually I'm not in a hurry when ordering car parts so that suits me just fine.
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May 22, 2014 19:56
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Simkin posted:Huh. Nothing fancy like drilled/slotted/engraved with pictures of Petter Soldberg? No. I have yet to outrun them on dirt and have to be running pretty flat out to nuke them on tar at night. Anything more and jamal will be recommending track setups. I get mine from rock auto, but amazon and KNS are also good. I order from rock auto on mondays and usually have my parts by the weekend to install.
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May 22, 2014 19:58
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Goons I'm about to join your respected coterie, for I have come upon a meticulously maintained 2002 Legacy L wagon. Girlfriend saw it and called it a "lovely grandpa station wagon". I'll be laughing all the way to work in the snow in a few months.
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May 23, 2014 00:09
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You've made a good decision.nm posted:About the car, not the girlfriend. Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 01:53 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 00:11
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Decision time. I know this is a mostly enthusiast crowd but my wife and I are expecting our first child and I'm shopping between a lightly used 2011 Legacy CVT with 35k (asking price 13.8k) and a new Outback wagon (can be had in the 6speed flavor for 22.5k). Subaru is offering 0% financing so the only other differences in cost will be excise and insurance. Pro/Cons: Legacy Pros
Legacy Cons
The outback pros/cons are pretty much the inverse. The 0% financing is really attractive, and the payments will be affordable even with a 60 month loan. I'm just wondering if any additional benefits/drawbacks of either option might jump out at you guys.
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May 23, 2014 01:19
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:You've made a good decision. About the car, not the girlfriend.
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May 23, 2014 01:32
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dayman posted:Decision time. I know this is a mostly enthusiast crowd but my wife and I are expecting our first child and I'm shopping between a lightly used 2011 Legacy CVT with 35k (asking price 13.8k) and a new Outback wagon (can be had in the 6speed flavor for 22.5k). Subaru is offering 0% financing so the only other differences in cost will be excise and insurance. Since you mentioned financing why not get an 08 lightly used and buy it cash? Just as safe and good in the snow etc and if you have to buy a people mover it would make sense to save as much money doing it as possible? E: I guess I'm saying go with the legacy.
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May 23, 2014 01:37
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daslog posted:2 3/8ths extensions will fit in two of the 4 holes nicely. I stick a long prybar between then to hold the pulley still. Timing looks good, so thats not my problem. I've got about 70k on this timing belt, will be due in about 2-3 years. Trying to decide if I should just do the replacement now and sink $150 into a car I may just end up trading in if it turns out it is the turbo failing and I've damaged the engine.
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May 23, 2014 02:10
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VelociBacon posted:Since you mentioned financing why not get an 08 lightly used and buy it cash? Just as safe and good in the snow etc and if you have to buy a people mover it would make sense to save as much money doing it as possible? While the 08 looks better and drives better, it is quite a bit smaller and fuel economy is quite a bit worse than on the CVT models.
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May 23, 2014 04:51
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Slow is Fast posted:No. My car shows a manufacturing date of 08/02, so I guess I need to be extra careful not to get the wrong shape pads?
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May 23, 2014 05:25
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Simkin posted:My car shows a manufacturing date of 08/02, so I guess I need to be extra careful not to get the wrong shape pads? Oof, yeah. 06/02 until 09/02 was a shitshow wrt brake pads. Maybe you can call a dealership with your VIN# and try to figure out which pads you need from the part numbers they give you.
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May 23, 2014 11:56
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VelociBacon posted:Since you mentioned financing why not get an 08 lightly used and buy it cash? Just as safe and good in the snow etc and if you have to buy a people mover it would make sense to save as much money doing it as possible? I was looking into 09 and earlier and they are actually quite a bit smaller in the back. My cousin has a 3 year old and he sold his 08 to get 2010 because it's just so much easier to wrestle in the rear facing car seat. I'm just wondering if there are any issues with either model years/trims that I'm unaware of that might sway me between one or the other. As for payments versus cash. It's just a comfort thing. It's actually better to spread out the cost of a car if you don't have to pay interest because the dollar is worth less in the future, but your payments remain the same. I just have the normal anxiety of taking on an extra monthly expense, despite the fact that we're a two income household and can totally afford it. My poor college student mentality still holds sway somewhat.
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May 23, 2014 13:11
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dayman posted:I was looking into 09 and earlier and they are actually quite a bit smaller in the back. My cousin has a 3 year old and he sold his 08 to get 2010 because it's just so much easier to wrestle in the rear facing car seat. Yes, the 4th gen Legacy is still a compact car in size, the 5th gen stepped it up to a mid-size. It's a big difference in the rear seating area for sure. Downside is that it's a much bigger car, but it doesn't sound like that's a downside for you. There ARE quite a few complaints with the 5th gen, but most of them come from the "performance" aspect. The suspension was made to be more in line with the competing mid-size cars, so if you compare a 4th gen to a 5th gen, you'll feel like all of your connections are joined with tennis balls. There were issues with the bushings being so soft they would tear almost immediately if you drove the car "hard" in any sort of suspension sense, but I believe this was fixed around 2012 as there was finally a TSB put out on the control arm bushings tearing and to replace them with a newer revision. There were also a lot of complaints about straight-line tracking and tire wear, and the control arm bushings didn't address it for a lot of people. LegacyGT.com forums are a really good resource, you can browse through all the stickies/etc on the 5th gen forum. Just curious, have you cross-shopped the XV or looked at a 1 or 2 year old Outback instead of a brand new one? If I were in your shoes with how you describe your wants, I would definitely do so. I'm a bit jaded on buying brand new Subarus at this point, instead of 2-4 year old ones, but I couldn't exactly say why.
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May 23, 2014 15:06
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si posted:Yes, the 4th gen Legacy is still a compact car in size, the 5th gen stepped it up to a mid-size. It's a big difference in the rear seating area for sure. Downside is that it's a much bigger car, but it doesn't sound like that's a downside for you. Good info, exactly the kind I'm looking for. I'll hop over to the forums and see if I can find anything else that might constitute a dealbreaker. The car will be primarily for my wife. I'll still have my WRX for fun times. My wife is not a spirited driver so performance complaints aren't really a problem, but it's definitely nice to be aware of. I've sat in my buddy's 2013 Impreza Sport and it's basically the same size as the 08-09 Outback in the back, I'm assuming the XV is similar. I'm not really enthused about the Outback's higher ride height, personally I think it's a shame they no longer produce a Legacy wagon. As for slightly used 5th gens, it's insane how they hold their value around here. For one they're super rare to find private sale, I'm guessing because the folks that tend to buy outbacks also tend to keep them for longer than 3-4 years. The ones you do find are outrageous. They average around 18-19k asking for a 2012 with 30k miles! I'd have to secure private financing to buy one and you can bet I'm paying more than 0%. Right now I'm leaning towards new. We can trade in her jalopy Elantra so I don't have the hassle of selling it privately. We keep our savings intact, and the pressure shifts to us holding our budgets more rigidly. I just wanted to make sure the 2014's aren't grenading or absolute POS's compared to earlier gens before I buy one. This will be my first ever new car. I normally buy super used. My last 3 cars prior to the one I'm driving now cumulatively cost less than 5k. Your perspective changes though when you have a kid on the way. My focus is going to be on my kid, and if I can afford to remove one distraction to better maintain that focus, I'm going to take it. dayman fucked around with this message at 15:40 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 15:34
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si posted:There were issues with the bushings being so soft they would tear almost immediately if you drove the car "hard" in any sort of suspension sense, but I believe this was fixed around 2012 as there was finally a TSB put out on the control arm bushings tearing and to replace them with a newer revision.  This was an issue in 05-09 Legacies too. They never even gave us a TSB. I had to replace my LCA bushings after 1 autocross while stock with <50k mi.
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May 24, 2014 00:58
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I know it's such a small thing and nobody probably cares, but I hung my invidia Q300 CBE on my car today (Thanks Jamal!)  I never get to do things to my car, and I've never done much beyond regular maintenance stuff, so it was a first time doing anything of this sort for me. It was backed onto some ramps, and christ it was terrifying crawling under to reach the downpipe springbolts. Everything hooked up clean though. The muffler-to-midpipe flanges had to be kinda held flush to one another while I bolted it in. even playing with how they were hung it was skewed a few mm. It looks sooo much better than the default unfinished steel pipes: 
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May 24, 2014 05:48
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Linux Nazi posted:I know it's such a small thing and nobody probably cares, but I hung my invidia Q300 CBE on my car today (Thanks Jamal!) This is how is all starts. One day you are hanging a new muffler, the next you are doing a JDM tranny swap.
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May 24, 2014 12:28
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I'm trying to find (preferably illustrated) instructions on how to remove/replace the weatherstripping running under the door itself on a pre-08 Impreza and coming up short. Can anyone help? I don't want to blindly yank stuff and break clips.
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May 24, 2014 17:18
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A lady in a minivan pulled out in front of me to make a left turn across my lane without looking. Subarus stop well.
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May 24, 2014 17:29
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My hood latch has seized on my 06 wrx the last few times I've tried closed the hood, meaning it just bangs on the mechanism without locking. A spray of wd40 gets it working but I'd like for it to close without it. What's a good plan to attack this?
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May 24, 2014 17:50
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I have a weird noise problem, and for once, it's not on my car, but my dad's '10 Impreza. On a cold start, there's a loud vibration noise coming from somewhere around the engine at about 1800 rpm. After warming up, it occurs around 2900 rpm. It seems to intensify under heavier engine load, but take that with a grain of salt. For some weird reason, my dad likes to shift up way early, to the point where he'll be trying to get up a hill in 4th while only doing 25 or 30 mph. I am boggled by this noise. With all the noises bouncing around up front, I can't seem to pinpoint it beyond "maybe somewhere toward the front of the engine bay", and I can't really feel anything vibrating oddly. Has anyone else experienced something similar?
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May 24, 2014 17:56
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Hollis Brown posted:My hood latch has seized on my 06 wrx the last few times I've tried closed the hood, meaning it just bangs on the mechanism without locking. A spray of wd40 gets it working but I'd like for it to close without it. What's a good plan to attack this? I had this problem with my '00 Impreza, I just used some grease on the latch, anything heavier than WD40. Work the latch when you're applying it, on mine the spring was binding IIRC and I needed to get the grease spread nice and good.
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May 24, 2014 18:04
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:I have a weird noise problem, and for once, it's not on my car, but my dad's '10 Impreza. On a cold start, there's a loud vibration noise coming from somewhere around the engine at about 1800 rpm. After warming up, it occurs around 2900 rpm. It seems to intensify under heavier engine load, but take that with a grain of salt. For some weird reason, my dad likes to shift up way early, to the point where he'll be trying to get up a hill in 4th while only doing 25 or 30 mph. Sounds like a heat shield to me.
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May 24, 2014 18:30
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daslog posted:Sounds like a heat shield to me. I've had two cars make similar noises and end up just having a loose heat shield.
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May 24, 2014 18:35
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Of course it would be something that simple.  A hose clamp fixed it. Thanks!
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May 24, 2014 21:15
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So apparently at 8000ft you make lot less vacuum than at sea level. For some reason, i expected the loss of boost, but not the vacuum.
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May 25, 2014 02:46
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Just think about it this way: a vacuum cleaner is just making a space of low pressure that allows the atmosphere to push air through the carpet fibers and into the canister. If you're higher up, there's less atmosphere to push through. The same concept applies to cars. (I know there's a few fallacies with my statement, but it helps visualize the "other side of the coin" of vacuum/pressure)
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May 25, 2014 02:53
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Oh, it makes sense, but I'm just glad I got to sea level before hunting for a leak. I kind of suspected that was what was going on, but I still wasn't happy until I got home.
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May 25, 2014 04:24
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New calipers are finally on, ugh. Found a JDM pair on eBay for $330, sprayed 'em red to match and hand-painted the lettering. I hosed up the bleeding apparently so the pedal feels squishy and inconsistent but the stopping part is very consistent. That puppy stops hard. I'm happy about that. No more pulsating and braking is super quiet, would buy again.
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May 25, 2014 06:00
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Hey, so i have a chance to buy a Miltek turbo back (this one.. http://www.mann-engineering.com/products/milltek-sport-hi-power-turboback-exhaust-2002-2007-impreza-wrxsti) for very, very cheap. Used of course. Does anyone here have any experience with Miltek? Im also wondering how loud this would be..
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May 25, 2014 23:50
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