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I'm trying to select a gift for my parents and I know some knives are a good idea. They've been using my victorinox 8" chef's knife and discovered just how horrible their knives truly are in comparison. They must have bought a 10 piece set like 10 years ago and have never had them sharpened. I need to pick out a chef's, paring, and possibly a utility knife. My parents would definitely want western knives that look nicer than victorinox. That said, they definitely need to be ergonomic and functional. I know they like the feel of the victorinox handle but I have a feeling that anything much thinner would be a problem. I guess I'm looking at Henckels on Amazon and their prices seem to be all over the place. They have so many different lines (Twin Professional vs Twin Four Star II) and it's hard to get a sense of how they are different and if they're worth it. I'm not looking to spend a fortune, but it is important that they at least look nicer than the fibrox line (so like, full tang, functional western handle) and can hold an edge for a long time.
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May 4, 2014 15:32
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God I fucking love Diablo 3 gold, it even paid for this shitty title
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Jarmak posted:Anyone have much experience with the Wusthof Classic Ikons? Was thinking of getting this: http://www.chefsarsenal.com/wusthof...k-set-9595.html to replace my lovely old beater knives, mostly to be used as at-the-ready utility knives and for things I might consider to be a bit too abusive for the more brittle/expensive gyuto. Was aiming to not spend too much cause the goal is to eventually have a full set of the Konosuke knives over the years, so I don't want to spend a lot of money on knives that will eventually be replaced. Cross posting this because I missed that there was a dedicated knife thread, currently own a Konosuke HD2 24cm wa-Gyuto, along with a bunch of cheap knives, looking to bring my poo poo knife quality up as a backstop and build a fell set of Konosukes to be my primary knives (at some point the Wusthofs will be solely for guests or when I'm doing something particularly abusive to the knife).
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May 4, 2014 16:20
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Jarmak posted:Cross posting this because I missed that there was a dedicated knife thread, currently own a Konosuke HD2 24cm wa-Gyuto, along with a bunch of cheap knives, looking to bring my poo poo knife quality up as a backstop and build a fell set of Konosukes to be my primary knives (at some point the Wusthofs will be solely for guests or when I'm doing something particularly abusive to the knife).
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May 4, 2014 18:13
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pogothemonkey0 posted:I'm trying to select a gift for my parents and I know some knives are a good idea. They've been using my victorinox 8" chef's knife and discovered just how horrible their knives truly are in comparison. They must have bought a 10 piece set like 10 years ago and have never had them sharpened.
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May 4, 2014 18:16
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i like nice words
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pogothemonkey0 posted:I'm trying to select a gift for my parents and I know some knives are a good idea. They've been using my victorinox 8" chef's knife and discovered just how horrible their knives truly are in comparison. They must have bought a 10 piece set like 10 years ago and have never had them sharpened. The standard german knives won't hold an edge as long.
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May 4, 2014 19:09
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pogothemonkey0 posted:I'm trying to select a gift for my parents and I know some knives are a good idea. They've been using my victorinox 8" chef's knife and discovered just how horrible their knives truly are in comparison. They must have bought a 10 piece set like 10 years ago and have never had them sharpened. I dunno about your parents views i/r/t Knife Aesthetics, but I use my Henckels 7" Santoku every goddamned day and its my gay lover. No "pro" no "S" or other alphanumeric nonsense and if you can't find it for under $50 you aren't looking. It is absolutely no match whatsoever for Hanzo Steel. No Wave is totally right about the matchup of Tojiro v. Henckels and the blade will absolutely feather out faster than a Tojiro or perhaps a repurposed Kusanagi. but here's the thing; it sounds like your parents don't know how to take care of knives. I suggest instead of fretting about the purchase of a set of legendary blades with which to dice tomatoes and/or singlehandedly fight the Sengoku Jidai for the honor of Ieyasu, you instead purchase a low-to-mid grade tier of knives that is reliable and within your price range like Henckels or Tojiro or Wusthof or whatever and then roll a fraction of the money you save into a modest honing rod and wetstone and then then you, yourself, teach your parents literally the first thing about knife maintenance as corollary to the gift which personalizes it even more! "Give a mom a knife and she'll cut things for a day. Teach a mom to sharpen, hone and strop a knife and you best not forget another Mother's Day again young man are your cuffs askew i thought i told you about white shoes and black socks you should add a fish oil supplement for liver support and" --The Gift of the Magi
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May 4, 2014 21:27
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Is there an advantage to carbon steel over stainless besides hardness? With Konosuke's HD semi-stainless line raiting a 61 HRC which is in line with the low end of White #2 knives I'm struggling to find a reason to get anything else besides maybe a carbon steel super laser for a slicer. Also in regards to the CCK small cleaver, is it objectively really good or just really good for $60? My next knife splurge was likely going to be a one of the Konosuke nakiris or a nakiri of similiar quality, if the CCK small cleaver is really that amazing I might consider picking one up in the short term and moving the nakiri to the back of the wish list.
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May 5, 2014 06:07
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Jarmak posted:Also in regards to the CCK small cleaver, is it objectively really good or just really good for $60? My next knife splurge was likely going to be a one of the Konosuke nakiris or a nakiri of similiar quality, if the CCK small cleaver is really that amazing I might consider picking one up in the short term and moving the nakiri to the back of the wish list. To borrow from SubG: SubG posted:Tojiros are really good bang for the buck, yeah. They used to be even better before the prices started to creep up and, apparently, they started having quality control problems. If it was me I'd probably spend the extra for a Moritaka, which is going to be substantially more than a Tojiro but is a hell of a deal for a handmade kitchen knife. (not sure if his is CCK, but mine is)
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May 5, 2014 06:15
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deimos posted:To borrow from SubG: That doesn't really answer my question though because a nakiri is essentially the Japanese version of the same thing (vegetable cleaver)
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May 5, 2014 06:22
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Jarmak posted:That doesn't really answer my question though because a nakiri is essentially the Japanese version of the same thing (vegetable cleaver) I don't think you understand a CCK, it's a chef's knife replacement, a workhorse, a butcher of chickens, a testament of flexibility of duty, a Deus Ex knife, not some namby pamby knife you use to dice your baby boy choi and take to Sunday school dressed in pretty outfits.
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May 5, 2014 06:26
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Jarmak posted:Is there an advantage to carbon steel over stainless besides hardness? When you're looking at very high hardness steels, most of the stainless variants will be ones with a lot of carbides. This, as a general matter, will improve wear resistance but produce a less smooth edge surface than a comparable carbon steel. Carbon steels also generally have better toughness than stainless steels of the same hardness. But again, asterisk asterisk blah blah blah holy war on bladeforums commences. In purely practical terms you're better off worrying about how comfortable a kitchen knife is in your hand than any bullshit involving the theoretical performance of the steel. Because unless you're the loving samurai chef or some poo poo you're never going to find yourself in any situation where the corner case special circumstances argument for one blade steel over another is more important than how comfortable you are using it. Which you'll be noticing all the loving time. Jarmak posted:Also in regards to the CCK small cleaver, is it objectively really good or just really good for $60? That said, the CCK #1 small slicer is a hell of a good Chinese cleaver. If you're in the market for a Chinese cleaver, that's what I'd get. The US$60 price tells me you're probably looking at chefknivestogo (who apparently just raised their prices, since they were, what US$35 or US$45 for a long time). They've always sold the #3 small slicer, which is a little smaller than the #1. I'd always go with the bigger one, but whatevs. As far as a Chinese cleaver versus a nakiri goes, you get a lot more depth with the cleaver, and most nakiris I've seen are shortish too---like 180mm or less. I'll pretty much always prefer a general-purpose kitchen knife that's 8"-10" over one that's only 6"-7", but that's personal preference. I generally prefer the deeper blade, for better control as well as being a better transport for veg or whatever from cutting board to pan. But again, it's a personal preference thing. If you're rockin a nakiri and aren't comfortable with a bigger cleaver, gently caress the philosophy and go with what works for you.
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May 5, 2014 11:28
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SubG posted:I don't even know what an objectively good knife is. Fair enough, I was just trying to figure out if the main reason it gets rave reviews is because of its value and not necessarily because of its quality, if that makes sense. When you're looking at stuff in the $150-$300 range and the item suggested is in the $35-$60 range you wonder if things are getting compared on the same playing field. Regarding the steelchat, I'm asking because the Konsuke HD2 is the first "nice" knife I've acquired and they offer essentially the same knives in multiple material types, seeing as the HD2 is corrosion resistant it seems like there isn't much of a reason to get anything else if I'm getting one of their knives if potential advantages are nearly impossible to detect. edit: after doing a lot of nakiri research this morning currently I'm drooling over the stainless clad Takeda, for reference edit2: As much as the nakiri looks nice it is pretty much an extra wide gyuto with the end cut off, I think at this stage if I'm trying to ditch the rest of these poo poo department store knives from around when I got married and move on to better stuff I'd be better served taking the budget and getting a nice petty to go with the gyuto, a low end 6" Wusthof beater for "I don't need hanzo steel to cut my PB&J in half" duty, and a cheap but decent bread knife, and I'll have all my basic needs covered and won't feel pressure to cover a functionality gap with something that I'll end up wanting to replace. Jarmak fucked around with this message at 15:39 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 12:04
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Jarmak posted:Fair enough, I was just trying to figure out if the main reason it gets rave reviews is because of its value and not necessarily because of its quality, if that makes sense. When you're looking at stuff in the $150-$300 range and the item suggested is in the $35-$60 range you wonder if things are getting compared on the same playing field. Honestly with edit2 it sounds like you've got your bases covered. That said, if you've got an Asian supermarket nearby, go see if they sell a super cheap Chinese cleaver to play with. It's really quite a different experience vs other types of all-purpose knives. -Parent knife stuff: Get them this set: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/to2pcstset.html and this: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/to.html and maybe this: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/sharpeningrod.html Teach them what they need to do to minimally maintain the knives and call it a day. .Z. fucked around with this message at 16:02 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 15:58
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.Z. posted:Honestly with edit2 it sounds like you've got your bases covered. That said, if you've got an Asian supermarket nearby, go see if they sell a super cheap Chinese cleaver to play with. It's really quite a different experience vs other types of all-purpose knives. When I get home to Boston I'll check it out edit: Anyone got an off the cuff recommendation for an inexpensive but functional bread knife? I know Victorinox is probably the best idea but they're just so drat ugly, maybe a cheapo henckals? edit2: I take that back, somehow I missed the wooden handled Victorinox stuff, might go that way for the bread knife and the 6" beater Jarmak fucked around with this message at 18:01 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 16:08
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Jarmak posted:
Any properly sharpened gyuto can cut bread just fine, but a lot of people like the Tojiro ITK serrated, and the richmond artifex serrated.
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May 5, 2014 16:32
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SubG posted:This is actually a complex question, as steel composition is just one part of the overall equation. Two edges made of the same steel but given different heat treatments might perform more differently than two edges made from similar but different steels. Anyway.
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May 5, 2014 17:02
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http://www.chefknivestogo.com/moritaka12.html http://www.chefknivestogo.com/shunpremier2.html I'm so torn between knowing the Moritaka is probably a higher quality knife with the Shun being overpriced and the fact that 130mm seems to long for a pairing knife and the Shun has more of a European pairing knife shape (also its stainless which seems like it would be especially useful for a pairing knife which tends to see more abuse). Still researching though, doesn't seem to be that much in the 3.5"-4" range with the traditional handles that I like. Right now I think i'll be going with the Victorinox 6" Chef with wooden handle, Richmond Artifex (kind of like the gimmick of having an American made knife) serrated and an as of yet undecided pairing/petty knife with a $150 budget edit: Am I crazy for thinking that a cheap Tojiro petty would make a better steak knife then any of the actual steak knife options? Jarmak fucked around with this message at 19:12 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 18:29
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Jarmak posted:Fair enough, I was just trying to figure out if the main reason it gets rave reviews is because of its value and not necessarily because of its quality, if that makes sense. Anyone know where the price increase on the CCKs from chefknivestogo came from? I find it kinda difficult to imagine that CCK themselves have doubled the price of their cleavers over the past few years since I bought my first one. Jarmak posted:edit: after doing a lot of nakiri research this morning currently I'm drooling over the stainless clad Takeda, for reference Jarmak posted:I'm so torn between knowing the Moritaka is probably a higher quality knife with the Shun being overpriced and the fact that 130mm seems to long for a pairing knife and the Shun has more of a European pairing knife shape (also its stainless which seems like it would be especially useful for a pairing knife which tends to see more abuse). SubG fucked around with this message at 21:16 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 21:14
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SubG posted:The CCK small slicers aren't pretty, gussied-up knives like you normally expect at the US$100+ price level. So if elaborate fit and finish are a big thing for you, that's something to consider. I'm pretty much the exact same way with my Moritaka cleaver >< I think I'm going to sell it soon and just stick with the cck. What do you like about the Dojo? I wasn't a fan of the blade design, much happier with how the Tojiro DP pairing knife's design.
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May 5, 2014 21:47
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.Z. posted:What do you like about the Dojo? I wasn't a fan of the blade design, much happier with how the Tojiro DP pairing knife's design. Like I said, it's a pain in the rear end to describe, but with the Dojo the angle just works out the way I want it to when I'm holding the knife the way I want to hold it. I also much prefer the nearly triangular tip geometry over the spear point of most Western-style paring knives (e.g. the Victorinox) or the gyuto-ish modified sheepsfoot of most Japanese paring knives. Mostly because I'm pretty much never slicing/cutting with a paring knife like I am with a chef's knife, but I am frequently puncturing, poking, digging out seeds or pits or whatever. Basically most paring knives feel like they're just scaled down versions of larger knives, which is absolutely not what I want in a paring knife, because I just don't use paring knife for the same things as a bigger blade. The Dojo also has admirable fit and finish and I like the steel. But really it's just really well suited to the kind of tasks I want to do with a paring knife and how I do them.
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May 5, 2014 22:16
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Brilliant thread. Thank you. My knife knowledge has increased by 9000% !!! Seriously awesome thread. Now gonna spend some time looking for some knives ... what i have is not adequate any more. 
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May 7, 2014 03:25
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From the product recommendation thread: Guitarchitect posted:considering there isn't even a mention of K-Sabatier (or french knives in general) the last time I checked, I don't actually believe the Goon Hivemind knows its poo poo when it comes to knives I got a carbon steel K-Sabatier because I'm an rear end in a top hat. Seriously. I'm a giant pedantic dick, and among the reasons I got the Sabatier is that because to me it just seemed Correct. I have a giant soft spot for anything that claims to be The Original, and when I decided to learn how to cook I learned how to make French food thanks to a French guy. So it makes me happy to have what is at least allegedly an approximation of the classic French knife. I know that the Japanese knives have better stats, and I respect that. I also like that they mostly follow the traditional French blade profile (especially when precedent dictates that the Japanese tend to skew German). Some of those RC scores are just bonkers; I won't speak ill of Japanese knives. If you prefer them, I don't have an objective argument against it. I just like my Sabatier better. I've been a Knife Jerk since forever, and I don't mind that it's down a few Rockwell points, or that the steel has been described as "1080-ish?". It doesn't take very long to touch up the edge. I don't even have to do it as frequently as I thought I would. I just love the feel, the balance, the blade profile - my only regret is that I couldn't find a super old vintage one from a reliable place. Anyway, that's why nobody mentions Sabatiers. The only things going for them are the traditional French blade profile (which the Japanese do), and that some people insist that GENERIC CARBON STEEL is better than GENERIC STAINLESS STEEL (which the Japanese do better than anybody (both kinds of steel, seriously they're pretty on point)).  But that doesn't mean you shouldn't get one and use it forever and love it, because they're the greatest.
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May 7, 2014 23:51
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Stalizard posted:From the product recommendation thread: No Wave fucked around with this message at 02:27 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 23:56
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Stalizard posted:
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May 8, 2014 00:05
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SubG posted:The thing I hate about ye olde schoole French knife designs is gently caress a finger guard bolster. I'm honestly curious as to why you don't like it? It's just that you're usually right about things, and I went from a Henckels without any bolster to this one and I never really noticed that much of difference between bolster and not-bolster. edit: specifically this Henckels knife, which noticeably eschews the whole finger guard bolster paradigm: 
Stalizard fucked around with this message at 00:23 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 00:19
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Stalizard posted:I'm honestly curious as to why you don't like it? They don't actually buy you anything safetywise unless you're holding your knife like Norman Bates or maybe if it's a really loving narrow blade (like a fillet knife). They also tend to show up on knifes that are designed to be `hefty' or whatever, which is something I used to favour but now find very undesirable in a kitchen knife, but that's personal preference. So they don't actually contribute anything, and there are several ways in which they can be a problem. Edit: yeah, that Henckles has a bolster, just not one of the finger guard kinds. You can still see that it's going to be a loving brick because of the extra weight, but at least it isn't going to interfere with the operation of the knife. SubG fucked around with this message at 00:33 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 00:31
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I was an idiot and meant to say that the Henckels didn't have a finger bolster - it obviously has a bolster, sorry about that. Anyway, thanks! Everything you just said is valid! But you knew that already! Also for what it's worth, the bolster on my Sab turns pretty sharply away from the edge of the blade, almost a 45 degree angle. When I bought it the edge was pretty lovely up to about a cm away from the bolster, but I fixed that on a sharpmaker of all things. You can definitely put together a workable edge right up to the bolster, but some people might not have the skills or the stones to do that. Which is understandable. Even if you have both, it can be a pain in the rear end (ask me how I know!) I definitely agree that finger bolsters don't do anything for you for safety. And that they're a pain to sharpen - I like this one because it dramatically curves up out of the way. But if you like a lighter knife, obviously such a bolster will totally get in the way. You know what you like; more power to you! If any of you are reading this and aren't a forums superstar, I still got to recommend you at least try a Sabatier. If you like it, only ever buy a K-Sabatier or a Four Star/Elephant; the rest are garbage. If you don't, try a Japanese knife! If you don't like that one either, gently caress off!
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May 8, 2014 01:13
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Thanks everyone for such an informative thread. I think I'm still confused about something; what exactly do you guys mean by saying "harder steels are more brittle"? What's the real world scenario in which a hard carbon knife would ever break? I know the consensus seems to be to go stainless for babby's first knife, but is caring for a carbon knife that much different than cast iron? Some of you have said something to the effect of "just wipe it down as soon as possible and you're fine" while others keep saying how quickly it might rust. Obviously I wouldn't soak it in a sink full of water, but is it to the point that doing something mundane like putting it under the faucet to rinse it off for 5 seconds really going to cause immediate rust? Or start to chop some food and then walk away for 30 minutes? I don't feel I have to baby my cast iron stuff to that degree so I'm curious what's different about knife care. Lastly, there hasn't been much linking of places to buy knives to shop around for best prices or brand/style options if you aren't already certain what you want. Chef's Knives to Go and Knifewear seem to be pretty reasonable; any other recommendations? I am leaning towards Moritaka for my first chef/pairing knives, and ordering direct from them looks to be the cheapest solution; is that the case for other brands?
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May 24, 2014 18:09
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vacuity posted:Thanks everyone for such an informative thread. I think I'm still confused about something; what exactly do you guys mean by saying "harder steels are more brittle"? What's the real world scenario in which a hard carbon knife would ever break? It's not that a knife made of a harder steel will break, its that it will chip much more easily. Imagine you have someone who decides to get some baked-on gunk off a baking sheet by chipping at it with the tip of a knife. -If the knife was a cheapo, soft stainless steel knife they'll probably bend and/or blunt the tip. The steel has quite a bit of give to it, so you can also get the tip back bending it back into place with something. Steeling it or pliers, or whatever. -If the knife was a hard steel, be it carbon or stainless, the knife tip is going to chip off. The only ways to fix that, and still have a point on the knife, are grinding the entire edge down if you want to retain the same blade profile or reshaping the blade geometry towards the tip of the blade. Either scenario will make you want to cry. The properties that we like about harder steels (better edge retention and sharper edge angles) also mean the knife needs to be used properly and cared for properly. The standard abuse you find in most household (throwing knives into the dish washer, throwing all the knifes into a drawer with no edge protection, etc) will cause far more damage to harder steel knives. Anne Whateley posted:Frozen loving hot dogs are the worst for my parents' knives.  .Z. fucked around with this message at 19:16 on May 24, 2014 |
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May 24, 2014 19:09
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Frozen loving hot dogs are the worst for my parents' knives.
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May 24, 2014 19:11
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.Z. posted:Words which are good I see. So basically they're less resilient to doing something stupid, but I wouldn't have to worry about it chipping if, say, I was chopping a little harder than usual one day? That said, how do you deal with cutting harder/thicker foods (root veggies, maybe watermelon or something) if chipping is a concern? Is that where just using the proper knife would come into play? I currently use my lovely chef knife for everything, but I suppose a cleaver/nakiri would be best for this application?
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May 25, 2014 01:02
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vacuity posted:I see. So basically they're less resilient to doing something stupid, but I wouldn't have to worry about it chipping if, say, I was chopping a little harder than usual one day? Thicker/denser things won't be an issue. I've no issues cutting parsnips and watermelons with my knives. Just avoid things where, if you were to try and chop it, your knife would bounce off i.e. bones and frozen solid foods. Also if this is going to be your first set of really good knives, I'd suggest something cheaper. The Tojiro DP and Richmond Artifex lines are really good bang for your buck and in the ~$100 range. Other goons may have good suggestions as well. The more expensive knives really aren't that much better to most people. Plus, you won't feel the pressure of really having to baby your knife because it's not worth $200. I love my Moritaka chinese cleaver, but honestly I have more fun with my much cheaper CCK chinese cleaver. .Z. fucked around with this message at 01:39 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 01:36
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Yeah, don't worry about cutting a butternut squash and chipping your knife. Just know that if your knife hits the floor there goes the tip, and you're going to go crazy until you sharpen it again and redo the tip. Also don't let anyone use your knife because they won't understand. My chef hosed up my nakiri and my veg cleaver because because he didn't understand you can't just hack at poo poo. And know to wipe it off after cutting acidic things like lemons or limes because they will rust really quick.
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May 26, 2014 05:07
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I also would like to say gently caress finger guards. My first knife purchase was a Shun 8" chef, even though I had never used a Japanese blade. I like being able to move to different positions quickly, and being able to chop close to the handle.
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May 26, 2014 18:53
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Awesome, thanks guys! I realize the price/performance ratio drops significantly after a certain point, but I'm not above paying for aesthetics. Of the brands I have seen so far which I'd guess are a step up from Tojiro, the Moritaka's look the nicest without breaking the bank and seem to have an all around solid reputation. If I had money to burn I'd probably buy all Takeda all the time just because it's so drat pretty. Anyone have experience with a brand called Kochi? A local boutique place carries them: http://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/kitchen-knives-12/kitchen-knives/kochi.html
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May 26, 2014 22:05
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Just bought a barely used Global G2 for $4  in a Christian charity shop. Looks like a promotional gift from the danish engineering company 'Larsen & Laursen'.I felt pretty bad walking out the door of a charity shop with basically a 'free' expensive knife. But there are lots of fake Global knifes circulating in Denmark. Prior to the 2008 economic collapse, Global was THE knife brand to buy for every debt ridden middle class and above person. According to my "Internet research" it seems to be genuine. Sand in handle, good feel and grip dots seem correct. No registered trademark after Global though? And the Global text seems printed on? Fake or genuine? You be the judge. Heres some pix: http://i60.tinypic.com/dnyjgz.jpg http://i62.tinypic.com/f0dh6s.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/6s3rbq.jpg http://i59.tinypic.com/167v7lg.jpg Here with my same day second hand purchases: A chipped Arcos meat knife, A Giesser small profile chefs knife 8270-20. http://i58.tinypic.com/fkz61f.jpg something_clever fucked around with this message at 09:57 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 17:22
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I just went out today and I bought a sick knife that I totally love and want to take good care of. I'm afraid to tell you guys the knife I ended up getting because I don't want to be laughed out of here for essentially getting the Dre Beats of cutlery. Anyway, since I want to take good care of this thing I want to make sure I'm using the right cutting surface - I think that's pretty important. Right now I'm using a plastic board, the kind that gets fuzzy after you use it for ages. I heard that end-grain is the only way to go, and I've also heard that bamboo is the best surface. This has left me bamboozled (get it) and I was wondering what all y'all who seem to actually know what you're talking about would suggest.
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Jun 2, 2014 02:50
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My understanding about cutting boards, which may not be right and I invite correction from smarter, more-informed people: Bamboo is popular because it's cheap and it is very hard. However, the hardness that gives the board a long lifespan might also dull your knife prematurely, meaning more maintenance, more sharpening, shorter lifespan for the knife. Lots of people use bamboo with fancy knives and notice no problems, though. Softer hardwoods like cherry, larch, or maple are the usual suspects when it comes to true wood cutting boards. End grain is preferred over edge grain because it's considered to have "self-healing" properties that extend the life of both the board and the knife. With end grain, your blade is supposedly sliding in between the fibers, which close back up fairly easily, so it'll take a long time before you need to resurface the board. With edge grain, your blade is cutting across and through the wood fibers, and it'll show its use more quickly and require sanding and treating more often. Plastic is fine as long as it's soft enough that your knife leaves marks in it, but be careful to ensure thorough cleaning because I'm told that those grooves can harbor bacteria more readily than wooden boards. I use plastic, and it works fine for me and will continue to do so until I'm able to afford a showpiece cutting board. Now show us your knife. Prove your love. (Seriously though. If you are truly happy with your knife, that is what matters. Nobody worth listening to is going to laugh at you just for the knife you have unless you're being a pompous rear end in a top hat about it.)
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Jun 2, 2014 05:27
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Totess posted:I just went out today and I bought a sick knife that I totally love and want to take good care of. I'm afraid to tell you guys the knife I ended up getting because I don't want to be laughed out of here for essentially getting the Dre Beats of cutlery. Ken Onion Shun is my guess. Anyone who's ever been embarrassed to talk about their trendy knife purchase seems to have bought one. http://www.amazon.com/Onion-Shun-DM0500-8-Inch-Chefs/dp/B0007IR2MO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401723718&sr=8-1&keywords=shun+ken+onion+knives And I'll echo the above, if you love it and aren't a douche about it, then have no worries.
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Jun 2, 2014 16:44
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:07 |
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Totess posted:I just went out today and I bought a sick knife that I totally love and want to take good care of. I'm afraid to tell you guys the knife I ended up getting because I don't want to be laughed out of here for essentially getting the Dre Beats of cutlery. like bombhand said, bamboo is good because it's cheap, sustainable, and durable. It is also generally harder on the knives than softer woods. They do make endgrain-esque bamboo which is a bit easier on the knives. In everyday, nonsperg use, they're probably fine. Stay away from teak. because of the nature of the wood and how it's grown, it has embedded in it dirt and sand particles which you can imagine are very bad for your knife. Sani-tuff boards are really good. They are made of a certain type of rubber and have the benefits of plastic (sanitizeable), and the benefits of wood (fast cutting surface, resurfaceable, cuts "heal"). They're not the prettiest though. Boardsmith makes the rollsroyce of cutting boards though if you're after something that works well and makes a beautiful kitchen piece as well.
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Jun 2, 2014 17:04
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