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SomethingLiz posted:Can anyone identify these pipes? They came with the bike when I bought it, and I haven't seen any like them in my quest for less obnoxious exhaust. I'm looking for either the manufacturer, or even what this style is called. Around here we call those "open headers" and lol you weren't kidding when you said your bike was ridiculously loud. You probably won't find a manufacturer because those aren't something that is manufactured as an exhaust system -- it's just the pipes that would normally lead to a muffler but with the muffler and everything south of it lopped off. It's a resonant open-ended tube connected directly to the exhaust port. It is impossible to make a louder exhaust. What state are you in? In any state with a noise limit that's going to be illegal.
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May 23, 2014 19:07
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I ended up buying a Nighthawk 750 with dry rotted tires. I want to order new tires ASAP. I was thinking of getting radial Michelin Pilot tires for it. Is it okay to get radial front and back tires for the bike when they had OEM Bias tires? I prefer the feel of radial tires and I don't mind spending the extra money on them.
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May 23, 2014 19:11
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They're some variant of straight shots / 'big-radius'. Sagebrush is wrong, there are a -lot- of manufactured versions, just GIS 'harley short pipes' or something similar. Not only are they going to be noisy as poo poo but inadequate exhaust length = inadequate scavenging means you're losing a lot of power, especially on the low end. Lord only knows if it's jetted and mapped for them.
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May 23, 2014 19:13
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Also, what's the going rate for new condition stock pipes off Craigslist? I may have found a seller but I'm not even sure how much to offer.
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May 23, 2014 19:14
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Ah yeah, short pipes seems to be the keyword for these. I'm sure they are illegal, but I though most aftermarket exhaust was technically illegal, either because of noise or emissions. Either way, these are coming off asap.
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May 23, 2014 19:21
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Snowdens Secret posted:They're some variant of straight shots / 'big-radius'. Sagebrush is wrong, there are a -lot- of manufactured versions, just GIS 'harley short pipes' or something similar. People seriously manufacture open headers and sell them as anything other than headers?? When if you want the same effect you can, you know, just leave the headers open, or hacksaw off your muffler in 10 minutes? I guess I'm not surprised, in retrospect. SomethingLiz posted:I'm sure they are illegal, but I though most aftermarket exhaust was technically illegal, either because of noise or emissions. A lot of them are, but it's usually not quite as blatant as those things. It's completely possible to make an aftermarket exhaust that's nearly as quiet as the stock one at idle and still meets the noise regulations at other speeds but flows more gas. The legal problems come more from a "this is an unapproved part of the emissions system, only approved parts are allowed" regulation than anything else. I dunno about emissions. I don't think the US standards even require bikes to have catalytic converters yet -- even in California, the most restrictive state in the country, you don't have to have the emissions tested. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:35 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 19:30
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Rabid Snake posted:I ended up buying a Nighthawk 750 with dry rotted tires. I want to order new tires ASAP. I was thinking of getting radial Michelin Pilot tires for it. Is it okay to get radial front and back tires for the bike when they had OEM Bias tires? Get ya some Pilot e. According to this, your tire sizes are: Front: 110/ 80-18 Rear: 140/ 70-17 http://www.nighthawk750.com/specs/specs1.html Pilot Road 3: http://www.revzilla.com/product/michelin-pilot-road-3-front-tires Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 19:51 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 19:47
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Safety Dance posted:Get ya some Pilot Thanks man! I just ordered these! Edit: Ordered the Road 3 for the front and the Pilot Street for the rear Rabid Snake fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 20:28
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Rabid Snake posted:I ended up buying a Nighthawk 750 with dry rotted tires. I want to order new tires ASAP. I was thinking of getting radial Michelin Pilot tires for it. Is it okay to get radial front and back tires for the bike when they had OEM Bias tires? I put Pilot Road 2s on my 91 Nighthawk and they were great. The 3s and 4s are also pretty great I hear. Recommend.
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May 24, 2014 03:23
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I'm thinking I want to hunt around for a gauge cluster from a late model 919 solely for the clock functionality. I don't even give a gently caress. I want that clock. Is it possible for a dealer to say, verify the mileage as represented by my current odometer, and then reset the replacement to reflect the same? It's nearly 2 AM and I just want to know if this is even a thing.
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May 24, 2014 06:38
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I have a semi-related question. My 919 has honda's H.I.S.S. immobiliser key system. I want another key because the bike only came with one and it's so knackered that every time I open the fuel flap or seat lock I feel like I'm going to break the thing. Is there some way of getting around the immobiliser system so I can just use a plain normal key, or something? This issue is important enough for me to complain about and look for a fix for, but not important enough to lay down $300 for another HISS key.
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May 24, 2014 06:55
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Slavvy posted:I have a semi-related question. My 919 has honda's H.I.S.S. immobiliser key system. I want another key because the bike only came with one and it's so knackered that every time I open the fuel flap or seat lock I feel like I'm going to break the thing. Is there some way of getting around the immobiliser system so I can just use a plain normal key, or something? This issue is important enough for me to complain about and look for a fix for, but not important enough to lay down $300 for another HISS key. Can you remove the immobilizer, or is it far too ingrained into the bike to even consider doing that?
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May 24, 2014 07:04
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astrollinthepork posted:I'm thinking I want to hunt around for a gauge cluster from a late model 919 solely for the clock functionality. I don't even give a gently caress. I want that clock. If you don't give a gently caress, get a waterproof Casio watch and strap it to the bars.
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May 24, 2014 07:15
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Odette posted:Can you remove the immobilizer, or is it far too ingrained into the bike to even consider doing that? From what I can tell it works like a car immo. Transponder in the key triggers an antenna around the ignition barrel. This sends the key code signal to either an immo unit, which signals the ecu, or to the ecu itself. I'm not sure which it is but the immo unit and ecu will both be coded to the key so just bypassing the immo module wouldn't make a difference, I don't think. I'm kind of hoping that there's some kind of factory disabling system or something.
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May 24, 2014 07:39
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Slavvy posted:I have a semi-related question. My 919 has honda's H.I.S.S. immobiliser key system. I want another key because the bike only came with one and it's so knackered that every time I open the fuel flap or seat lock I feel like I'm going to break the thing. Is there some way of getting around the immobiliser system so I can just use a plain normal key, or something? This issue is important enough for me to complain about and look for a fix for, but not important enough to lay down $300 for another HISS key. After 8 years my Honda 599 exhibited the standard poo poo Honda key problem where I found both of my OE keys twisted to poo poo due to the gas cap gumming up from fuel vapor. My solution was this: http://tinyurl.com/qy28vl9 Slingshot racing gas cap. No lock, hope you trust your neighborhood.
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May 24, 2014 07:54
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Safety Dance posted:If you don't give a gently caress, get a waterproof Casio watch and strap it to the bars. I was meaning more like "This is tremendously expensive and a lot of effort, but I do not care" Also are throttle tubes universal? Can I throw that much ballyhooed R6 tube on my 919?
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May 24, 2014 08:08
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Terminus Est posted:After 8 years my Honda 599 exhibited the standard poo poo Honda key problem where I found both of my OE keys twisted to poo poo due to the gas cap gumming up from fuel vapor. My solution was this: http://tinyurl.com/qy28vl9 Slingshot racing gas cap. No lock, hope you trust your neighborhood. My bike lives inside, so that's no biggie and I've looked into something like that. I guess I just don't want an immobiliser on my bike and want to be able to use normal keys 
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May 24, 2014 08:15
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I have a sport bike question. I am not a knee-dragger by any means. I may have a slight need for speed, but I'm old and kind of a chicken, so I'm not looking to do corners at 100mph. However, I'm wondering if there's something I can do to improve my posture/position on my bike. I've seen people ride where their toes are pointed at the ground, and I don't know if that's just a personal preference thing, or a legit real thing that's done for a good reason. When I'm sitting in a tuck, the balls of my feet are on the pegs, my knees are up around the tank somewhat high, and my crotch is not pushed right up against the tank. I find that I have a lot better "suspension" that way by using my knees and back to post very slightly. On the other hand, my knees get sore pretty quick like that, and I feel like maybe I could adjust my pegs in such a way as to make it easier/more comfortable. The other thing I notice is that I have to move my legs a little if I want to shift or brake, if I've been crusing in a tuck for a while. Is that pretty normal, or should I look into moving my pegs? Someone suggested I look into rearsets, but then someone else said that was for knee-draggers only. Help me, moto-friends.
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May 24, 2014 08:16
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Lynza posted:I have a sport bike question. You are doing the right things. Don't let weight onto your wrists, especially under braking. Also get some grippy things on the sides of your tank, it makes riding a sportbike properly a million times easier because your legs actually grip the tank instead of sliding forward uselessly. Another good tip is to try keep your torso parallel to the bike, instead of having just your shoulders or just your arse dangling off awkwardly. If your bike allows it, hooking your outermost elbow on the tank is helpful, sometimes. I try to keep most of my weight on my feet/legs instead of my arse when I'm going around corners. In a similar vein, I've found that deliberately moving my inner foot so that the toe is pointing downward at the tip of the peg, and my ankle/heel are up by the heel guard is helpful for posture. Along with this, I move my outer foot forward so my heel is hooked on the peg, this seems to help drive my outer knee hard into the tank and lets me hang a good part of my weight off that leg, with the inner leg supporting the rest. A lot of this stuff is personal and subjective and altered/limited by the shape of the bike, the riding gear, the proportions of the rider and so on. Most people can't ride for poo poo so don't take your cues from random cunts you see in the street, chances are they are utterly useless and having a literbike does not make them a good rider, or even an average rider. Rearsets will help you if you find you're having to lift your knees too much to grip the tank effectively. Your feet to shins angle should be roughly 90 degrees. You can customise a bike to the nth degree to fit you perfectly but you need to master fundamentals first before any of it really matters. I say all of this as someone who thinks of themselves as having only moderate ability.
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May 24, 2014 08:29
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Slavvy posted:My bike lives inside, so that's no biggie and I've looked into something like that. I guess I just don't want an immobiliser on my bike and want to be able to use normal keys Cut a key up and tape the chip to the cylinder? Tape the chip to your burly key? I honestly have no clue. These things can't be too terribly smart. My experience was that the key was fine until my gas cap hosed me. Then came pliers, hammers, and blocks of wood so I could get a blank cut to replace my OE keys as those poor bastards had been work hardened from constant bending.
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May 24, 2014 08:43
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astrollinthepork posted:I was meaning more like "This is tremendously expensive and a lot of effort, but I do not care" Mostly. Most sport bikes have a bar diameter of 7/8", including the R1/R6. You may need to modify inside the throttle housing (grinding off random plastic bits) if the cam is significantly bigger than the stock one. Also there are 2 variations of the R6 throttle tube. Up to 05 was 1/5 turn (36.9 mm), 06 and up are 1/6 (40.76mm).
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May 24, 2014 13:09
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Slavvy posted:My bike lives inside, so that's no biggie and I've looked into something like that. I guess I just don't want an immobiliser on my bike and want to be able to use normal keys
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May 24, 2014 15:49
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slidebite posted:I'm in the same boat as you but if the Honda system is anything like my C14, no way. It's so imbedded there is no taking it out. In their defence, an immobiliser system that's easily bypassed/removed is not a particularly useful immobiliser system.
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May 24, 2014 16:08
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Slavvy posted:From what I can tell it works like a car immo. Transponder in the key triggers an antenna around the ignition barrel. This sends the key code signal to either an immo unit, which signals the ecu, or to the ecu itself. I'm not sure which it is but the immo unit and ecu will both be coded to the key so just bypassing the immo module wouldn't make a difference, I don't think. I'm kind of hoping that there's some kind of factory disabling system or something. I've seen remote start setups (on cars) where they will take a spare key and hide it near the immobilizer antenna, usually under the steering column cover. If there is a good place to hide your old key then you should be able to do the same thing. Shove it in the hiding spot, get a regular key cut and see what happens.
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May 24, 2014 19:06
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Bugdrvr posted:I've seen remote start setups (on cars) where they will take a spare key and hide it near the immobilizer antenna, usually under the steering column cover. If there is a good place to hide your old key then you should be able to do the same thing. Shove it in the hiding spot, get a regular key cut and see what happens. This is an idea that's worth investigating. I've also considered just carrying two keys and using the plain one to open the gas cap and seat.
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May 24, 2014 21:44
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Getting a set of http://www.motocyclops.com/buymisc/versyskey.html was the best thing I did after I bought my versys, the stock key bent every single time you would try to open the gas cap and the bike did not come with a spare.
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May 24, 2014 21:46
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Does DOT4 brake fluid yellow when exposed to sunlight? Trying to figure out if my Rizoma Next reservoir has a leak, or if it's just crappy brake fluid.
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May 25, 2014 22:08
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In my experience all brake fluid hates sunlight (maybe not the DOT5 silicone stuff but I've never used it). I usually use one of those sweat band things over my reservoir to protect the fluid.
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May 25, 2014 22:23
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But they make bikes (BMWs, off the top of my head) with clear brake fluid reservoirs?
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May 25, 2014 22:40
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It's a pretty safe bet that enough UV can gently caress pretty much anything up. I'd guess that picking up water and letting air bubbles in degrades performance faster than letting some sun hit it though.
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May 25, 2014 22:44
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I've had those clear reservoirs get all chalky and start to disintegrate from being in the sun too. I'm guessing it wouldn't be too big of a deal for a bike that lives indoors or one that stays in the PNW where there is no sun but it's always sunny here and my bike is always in it so whatever is UV sensitive gets disintegrated quickly. I even have to change those sweat band things every year or so when they fade and the elastic fails.
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May 25, 2014 23:35
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So I got a used cbr250 a few months ago, only had 1800km on the clock. Pretty much every time on startup with a cold engine the clutch tends to be grabby and squeek a bit (when I'm letting go of the lever), but only in first gear. Once the engine warms up (literally 2-3 mins) the problem disappears completely. Is this anything I should be worried about? Might a general service/oil change help? The oil level and clearness seem ok to me.
Barnsy fucked around with this message at 00:06 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 00:04
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Barnsy posted:So I got a used cbr250 a few months ago, only had 1800km on the clock. Pretty much every time on startup with a cold engine the clutch tends to be grabby and squeek a bit (when I'm letting go of the lever), but only in first gear. Once the engine warms up (literally 2-3 mins) the problem disappears completely. Is this anything I should be worried about? Might a general service/oil change help? The oil level and clearness seem ok to me. Do you know the last time the oil was changed? I would change it out with some fresh motorcycle oil and go from there, sounds pretty normal to me.
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May 26, 2014 00:18
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Bugdrvr posted:I've had those clear reservoirs get all chalky and start to disintegrate from being in the sun too. I'm guessing it wouldn't be too big of a deal for a bike that lives indoors or one that stays in the PNW where there is no sun but it's always sunny here and my bike is always in it so whatever is UV sensitive gets disintegrated quickly. I even have to change those sweat band things every year or so when they fade and the elastic fails. Good call. I think I'll do a flush and then cover the reservoir with a sweatband.
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May 26, 2014 02:13
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velocross posted:Do you know the last time the oil was changed? I would change it out with some fresh motorcycle oil and go from there, sounds pretty normal to me. I'm guessing it was a few months ago. Might be the occasion to try out my first oil change!
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May 26, 2014 02:33
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Rule of thumb: if you have to guess when the oil was last changed, then you should change the oil. Tends to work out pretty well.
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May 26, 2014 07:22
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That's why I keep a spreadsheet.  Of course, I have no idea how many miles are on the bike right now.
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May 26, 2014 07:31
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My bike has -two- trip meters. One that I use for gas, another for oil. It works pretty great
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May 26, 2014 07:59
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How is the 85-86 Kawasaki ZL900 eliminators compared to it's type of bike? The reason I ask is that I see them pop up from time to time on the Norwegian bike market for pretty much dirt cheap. They're also really close to being 30 years old which means veteran status with real low insurance and year tax is right around the corner.
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May 26, 2014 09:20
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 20:52 |
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It was basically Kawis competition to a V-Max, which they accomplished by stuffing an I4 sport bike engine (lifted from a Ninja) in a cruiser frame when everyone else was doing Vs. The results were sort of weird. I think the bike is decent enough if a little buzzy. I've always sort of liked them but they're rarer this side of the pond.
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May 26, 2014 14:18
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