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So commuting on the 650s wore the rear tire down quicker than expected and its time for a new one. I had Pirelli Sport Demon's on my 250 and liked them a lot, turns out they don't make them in 160/60/17. Any suggestions for a commuting/weekend fun stuff tire, preferably something I can pick up from Revzilla since I work down the road from their warehouse. edit: Pirelli Angel GT's seem like they would be nice for what I plan on using them for, What is the 69w/70w after the sizes though? http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pirelli-angel-gt-tire tbb9 fucked around with this message at 00:18 on May 14, 2014 |
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May 14, 2014 00:00
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Angel GTs or Pilot Roads.
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May 14, 2014 00:26
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Z3n posted:Angel GTs or Pilot Roads. Sounds good to me, with the Pilot Roads Michelin seems to be pitching how the front and rear tires are designed to work together. My front tire still has a bit of life left on it, should I just go ahead and replace both anyway? I'm all for spending the money if it will keep my from dying.
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May 14, 2014 00:35
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If it's nearly done, I'd probably just replace it now regardless.
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May 14, 2014 00:59
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I really enjoyed Pilot Power 2CTs for commuting/weekend twisties.
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May 14, 2014 01:08
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How about going from a 120/60 to a 120/70 on the front, other forums seem to think its a good idea but suggest moving the forks up through the triples. I don't feel like messing with the forks, if that's the case should I just stay 120/60?
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May 14, 2014 13:25
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Just run the 120/70, you'll probably like the handling better.
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May 14, 2014 18:27
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Has anyone found a decent single-round headlight for the SFV650/Gladius? I've dug through this thread, but can't seem to find anything. I'm not a huge fan of the change in styling post-2009, and wanted to change it around.
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May 20, 2014 15:18
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So when I was taking apart my forks, one of tiny springs that goes in the oil lock turned out to be smooshed. I tried to order a replacement, but stupidly just ordered a damper rod spring. I'm seeing some people online say that the springs aren't necessary. Is that true, and therefore can I leave them out, or, if they are necessary, can I just get a similarly sized one at a hardware store?Rectovagitron posted:Has anyone found a decent single-round headlight for the SFV650/Gladius? I've dug through this thread, but can't seem to find anything. I'm not a huge fan of the change in styling post-2009, and wanted to change it around. They have the same fork diameter as SVs, so you could probably just pick up a naked SV headlight with the mounts that slide over the forks. Maybe. edit: More posting Does anyone have a spare thrust adjuster and the corresponding locknut for the main engine mounting through-bolt for a first gen? I was going to put my engine back in today, but mine is hecka corroded. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 01:05 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 16:19
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Any recommendations on trickle chargers? The last one I had blew in 2 months 
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May 26, 2014 19:00
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djfooboo posted:Any recommendations on trickle chargers? The last one I had blew in 2 months I've had good luck with "Battery tenders". I like that they come with a harness you can leave on the bike and just plug in and when not charging use it for other devices on the bike.
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May 28, 2014 04:02
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kenny powerzzz posted:I've had good luck with "Battery tenders". I like that they come with a harness you can leave on the bike and just plug in and when not charging use it for other devices on the bike.
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May 28, 2014 06:08
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Hello SV biekers. I just moved and I'm ready to buy my motorcycle. This one really caught my eye. Single owner, old man, low miles never dropped and has the original manual and tool kit as well as maintenance records. I feel the price is a bit high though, how much do you think I could offer him in stacks of hundred dollar bills?
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May 29, 2014 01:21
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I would try offering him 80% of the number of stacks of $100 bills he desires, with a couple hundred wiggle room.
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May 29, 2014 02:10
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Oh yeah, that looks really pretty and clean. Go for it, but defer to others on pricing value. You'll love the naked version, too. Very comfortable and capable and good looking. Just don't buy that for your first bike, if that's what this is. EDIT: Just looked back and this is going to be your first bike and you just took the MSF? You are gonna be really sorry to see all that value and pretty fly out the window when you put it down in four months. Get a ratty but solid second gen for much less (like mine  ). Or get your thing if you think you can stay out of trouble, it's certainly pretty. Put sliders on EVERYTHING.
Coydog fucked around with this message at 02:49 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 02:46
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Agreed, Naked SV's are one of the best rounded bikes, great at no one thing, but good at almost everything. And as long as you have sliders to protect the frame and swingarm it shouldn't get too badly rashed up in a drop. Also, not everyone is destined to lowside into a mailbox the first time they ride a bike on the street.
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May 29, 2014 03:12
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I bought a naked SV with 4k miles on it for my first bike a week after I took the MSF. It hasn't magically forced me to throw it into a ditch yet. That was two years ago. It's a perfectly fine first bike.
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May 29, 2014 03:29
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I concede that the rider is a huge part of keeping the SV off the ground and that it's not a death warrant in of itself. I just think that's a pristine example and if it were crashed even once, even mildly, it would lose a lot of what makes it so pricy and pristine. By all means, go for it for a first bike, it's an SV not a hawkGT or ducati. The naked really holds up well to light downs if it has proper sliders. It's no sumo, but it does tend more towards picking it back up and getting on with your day with only a few exterior bits needing to be replaced. I really like having no fairings to break up the wind, esp in the summer, and it is a very comfortable bike with upright handlebars and lowered pegs. Handles like a dream. Just be mindful that it can still go deceptively fast for a first bike.
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May 29, 2014 03:56
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Hell, my S did just fine falling over on motosliders. New signal and bar end, and you can't tell anything happened.
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May 29, 2014 04:04
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The SV is not a slow bike, especially once you learn how to ride it and get an R6 throttle tube for more power on command. It's just tractable enough that a beginner can get comfortable.
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May 29, 2014 04:12
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That is a good way of putting it. The torque is just even and predictable enough to prevent any nasty surprises and encourage learning, but definitely gives you a lot of it all over. My N handles like I always thought bikes would handle, after I put new (and properly sized) tires on. This is huge, because before it felt broken and I always wished for a sumo/250r. What I mean to say is that while I started out outright hating the SV, I've come to love it so much. I never get any "when are you gonna get a REAAAAL bike" comments either. Just compliments and respect from riders and non riders alike. Since I read all the talk here about the r6 tube, the stock tube I was perfectly happy with has begun to annoy me. Thanks a lot. :| Thing is, I sat on a DRZ with an R6 throttle tube just last week and it didn't seem like much of an improvement over mine, if any. In fact, it felt kind of identical. Granted I didn't ride it, but I imagined a night and day difference. My SV seems to have all of the typical SV mods already done, and I'm wondering if that was done too. Coydog fucked around with this message at 06:05 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 06:03
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Do you have to regrip to hit full throttle? If not, it's already been done.
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May 29, 2014 06:46
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I recently put the R6 tube on mine and it's not a subtle difference. But with the bigger tube, it finally feels right, like it was always supposed to be that way, so I wonder if that would make it harder to detect for someone who didn't know what the stock setup felt like. The bike feels perkier now and rev matching downshifts is a lot easier. The front end gets light on me more often too. Do the grips match, left to right? Are the cable slack adjusters all the way out? I had to loosen mine to the max at both ends to get the R6 tube to fit. Those are other clues. FWIW, I never dropped my first bike, but the SV is my second. It slipped away from me in the garage once when the kickstand wasn't all the way down. I don't think dropping your first (or second) bike is an event that is guaranteed to happen, but I agree that it's at least pretty likely. Spanky, I bought mine from an old man in Cleburne and it had all the same stuff included, but it also had a lot of miles on it, didn't run and only cost $1200. Another $1000* and it was like new again.  You never know what you'll find if you're patient, even around DFW.* I should clarify that I did 100% of the work myself Alceste fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 20:44
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Alceste posted:I recently put the R6 tube on mine and it's not a subtle difference. But with the bigger tube, it finally feels right, like it was always supposed to be that way, so I wonder if that would make it harder to detect for someone who didn't know what the stock setup felt like. The bike feels perkier now and rev matching downshifts is a lot easier. The front end gets light on me more often too. Do you have a first or second gen sv? Did you have to do any cutting on the throttle tube if it was a second gen? I read a review that said something to that effect.
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May 29, 2014 21:45
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I have a first gen, and I didn't have to do anything to the tube itself. I read the same thing about second gens though.
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May 29, 2014 21:58
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Can you guys give me some advice on pricing for this 08 SV I am thinking about buying? I've emailed the owner a little. He says the bike is sprung for a 175 lbs rider, and that it's got some scratches and minor damage in the plastics and a dent in the muffler from "a few driveway tip overs". I prefer the styling of the naked bikes, but based on the suspension upgrades he's done and he being the original owner and fairly low miles it seems like it wouldn't be a bad bike. But what's a fair price to offer him? quote:2008 SV 650 SF. 8300Mi. 6 oil changes w/Motul 5100 & K&N filter
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May 30, 2014 04:48
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I have an 08 naked that I'm in the process of selling. Listed it for blue book which is 4100 (it's the ABS model). New owner is picking it up tonight with fresh new tires installed for 3900. I think 4400 is a bit high. Average retail according to NADA on a standard model full faired 2008 SV is 4000. http://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/2008/Suzuki/SV650K8-645cc/Values I'd take that with you. Mods do not add value.
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May 30, 2014 12:46
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Mods sadly do not add value. Sometimes it can be really good for you to have the mods, but don't pay more for them. I've been checking my throttle to see if it is indeed the r6. Seems like it has a long turn to me, but I can go from stop to stop without regripping. That said, It's the full range of my motion. So if I'm gripping the bar like normal, pretty upright on my N, I can go to full throttle but my wrist cannot bend back more at this point. When I go into a partial or full crouch, as I do sometimes on hard accel, it's perfect. My arm/wrist stays bent fairly normally. But I do regrip the throttle occasionally going from cruising to high rpm, just so my wrist isnt bent awkwardly. The rubber of the grip on the right side is different from the left. Different color and pattern. Been meaning to replace them forever as they are pretty worn. So I guess it could go either way. I really do need to find a stock sv and try it, or have my sv friend tell me what she thinks of my bike (finally). This is the blessing and curse of a modded out SV. Last night I was at a bar and some cool dudes on blacked out full fairing sportbikes rolled up. They were out riding to see and be seen. All crazy and pristine/clean and expensive looking. One of them was a flat black ducati and the others were cbr or maybe yamaha I really couldn't tell. Full or most gear all around, even on passengers, so that's cool. When I mentioned that my bike was "just an SV, not on this level" the instant reply all around was "UH. NO. The SV is more than just. That's a really quick and great bike!". Felt really good to hear that (even though that's what I personally think of it).
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May 31, 2014 01:48
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ADINSX posted:Do you have a first or second gen sv? Did you have to do any cutting on the throttle tube if it was a second gen? I read a review that said something to that effect. I did my second gen SV a while ago, and after noticing I couldn't get the front end to lighten up at all on a launch I figured I wasn't getting all the way to WoT. Checked today and that was the case so I had to dremel it down, wasn't a big deal though I just kinda eyeballed and now everything works perfectly as far as I can tell.
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May 31, 2014 04:31
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Can I join the club guys? 08 SV650 SF, 81xx Miles, Ohlins rear shock and Racetech gold emulators. The front brake lever is soft so I need to sort that out. And I need to buy frame sliders for it. I might just go ahead and order some SS brake lines. Is there anything I should check? Edit: Didn't realize that I posted the full res photo on my phone. Resized. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 20:06
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Yes... yes you can. I'm always blown away by how good the sv looks with the full fairing, and that color is best. Get some moto sliders, steel lines an a mop to wipe up the drool from everyone who sees that bike.
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May 31, 2014 21:06
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The good news is that I replaced the spark plugs today. The bad news is that I am still having the same problem: the bike turns over, idles at under 1000rpm for a couple seconds, then dies. Putting the choke on or revving it seems to make it die faster. I am totally lost, as this is my first bike. Is it a fuel problem? What could I try next? It is a first gen sv650 (2001).
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May 31, 2014 21:22
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MetaJew posted:Can I join the club guys? Nice. That's my favorite color on SVs.
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May 31, 2014 21:25
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vs Dinosaurs posted:The good news is that I replaced the spark plugs today. The bad news is that I am still having the same problem: the bike turns over, idles at under 1000rpm for a couple seconds, then dies. Putting the choke on or revving it seems to make it die faster. Are you getting gas to the carbs?
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Jun 1, 2014 00:13
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Z3n posted:Are you getting gas to the carbs? Currently figuring out where the carbs are and how to do this. Will report back. Side question: I was reading that normally you should need vacuum to get fuel to flow out of the petcock? For what it is worth fuel readily flowed out of mine with no hose connected when I took the tank off yesterday. Second side note: I would occasionally have days where I would get backfiring going, is there potentially a vacuum leak somewhere? vs Dinosaurs fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 18:55
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MetaJew posted:08 SV650 SF, 81xx Miles, Ohlins rear shock and Racetech gold emulators. RE: My front brake lever is mushy/spongy I need some advice before I go and drop a lot of  The PO put EBC HH pads in the front caliper not too long ago. Is it likely that the system just needs to be thoroughly bled, or is the SV's front BMC notorious for being hard to bleed or something? Since I was thinking about ordering a set of the Galfer SS front brake lines (part # for the curious: D543-2) I see that svracingparts sells some sort of banjo bolt that has a built in bleeding nipple, but it's . So I'm wondering if it's worth the money or if I should just do it the messy way, with a rag and cracking loose the bajo fitting and bleeding it that way.The other thing I'm unsure about is if I should go ahead and drop the $145 on the Motosliders no-cut frame sliders and and another $35 on swingarm sliders. I obviously don't want to drop the bike, and the plastics already have a crack and some scratches on the right hand side, but if I can avoid more damage I guess that's good. I plan to start learning how to really ride the bike at track days, and do some occasional hill country rides. So, what's the consensus on super expensive frame sliders? Edit: While we're at it, recommendations on what oil people run, and where to order oil filters would be great. I'd also like to flush the cooling system. Should I use any particular coolant, or is prestone or some equivalent good? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 02:20
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Your bike is really pretty. That silver color really is the best on second gens. It's probably the next best looking SV I've seen lately besides my own  although M. Night Skymall's is also very attractive in screaming yellow.About the mushy lever, I would definitely bleed it, preferably during the SS brake line replacement that you should probably just go ahead and do; it will also give you the chance to replace the brake fluid, which is a good idea for any used bike. I've used a Mityvac hand squeezy vacuum pump to do my brake bleeding for over a decade now, which makes it a one man job (I got it for cars) and catches all of the fluid. I find it's still a bit of a messy job no matter what, but the catch can on the pump really helps. I did the SS lines and EBC HH pads earlier this year and have been very happy with them since. The brakes themselves are no harder to bleed than any others I've ever done. Mine's a naked and I put TRex frame sliders on it (which are not as popular as Motosliders, but cheaper and TRex is based locally) so I can't comment on that part, but I feel a lot better having them on there vs. nothing. I have some generic-rear end spools on the back from Amazon or eBay or something but that was mostly about ease of use with a rear stand for chain maintenance. I have been running Rotella T 15W-40 oil in mine with a K & N filter, because I like the nut that's built into the end of it for easy removal. No issues with either so far. RE coolant, I just use 50/50 Prestone and distilled water, although I have thought about going with distilled water and Water Wetter next time I change it out since my bike never sees freezing temperatures. Alceste fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 16:06
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Going along with front brake chat, mine seem to be dragging excessively, I can still spin the wheel but it makes a pretty distinct grinding noise, at speed it makes a whirl or whistling noise. Anything I should look for outside of just taking them apart and cleaning them? If its helpful I can take a video of me spinning the wheel with the bike on the stand when I get home. Edit: Not sure if it matters but I originally thought this was a bad wheel bearing, I inspected the bearings when I replaced my tires and they looked ok, but after putting everything back together the noise is worse than it was before. tbb9 fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 16:41
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tbb9, could some grit have gotten under and embedded? That said, my front brake rotor makes a ZZZZZ sound on braking in some conditions, mostly over the winter, but the rotors have holes in them and I don't know if that means anything. On expensive frame sliders, yes they are worth every penny. Moto sliders are what people recommend, but woodcraft makes phenomenal sliders of all kinds. They are very well designed, and definitely a cut above motosliders. I like the way the motosliders frame sliders look on my naked sv, but want woodcraft everywhere else. Since your bike has a fairing, you may want to look into the woodcraft frame sliders. less/no cutting, and a bit more effective. They would also look better I think. If you like what you see, lemme know. I have a NIB pair I was thinking of putting up on the marketplace for 50 shipped. EDIT: I just confirmed I have the R6 throttle tube  Was no problem going lock to lock while on the highway and upright. What on my SV hasn't been upgraded?! (hint:it's me)
Coydog fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 02:04
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Alceste posted:Your bike is really pretty. That silver color really is the best on second gens. It's probably the next best looking SV I've seen lately besides my own Thanks for the input. My brother and I have one of those mityvacs, but we think some air might be getting into the system, or at least into the draining tub from a not very tight fit around the bleeder nipple. I'll bleed them, either way, I was just curious if bleeding at the banjo bolt was something people did, since the BMC doesn't have a bleeder nipple. I bought a ton of Rotella T6 5W-40 that I use in my Mazdaspeed3 and ran in my KTM Supermoto. I might just stick with that. I noticed that there was a rebate for 6 quarts of Mobil1 10w40 racing 4t on Amazon, but it looks like it expired on May 31st. Coydog posted:On expensive frame sliders, yes they are worth every penny. Moto sliders are what people recommend, but woodcraft makes phenomenal sliders of all kinds. They are very well designed, and definitely a cut above motosliders. I like the way the motosliders frame sliders look on my naked sv, but want woodcraft everywhere else. Since your bike has a fairing, you may want to look into the woodcraft frame sliders. less/no cutting, and a bit more effective. They would also look better I think. Which model sliders do you have? I found someone on SVRider who appears to be selling the Motoslider no cut model for a good price. Hopefully they'll respond to my PM. I didn't realize that SVRider had an annual fee to post in the for sale section, so I can't respond to their thread.
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Jun 3, 2014 05:21
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