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polyfractal posted:Hello woodworking thread! I haven't been here in a while, since my last project burnt me out for a good month or two. My last project was an engagement ring and box for my now-fiancée: Wow, that's awesome! Is that ring pretty durable? I'd be scared to death it would break and then my fiance would break up with me.
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May 27, 2014 15:18
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jvick posted:Wow, that's awesome! Is that ring pretty durable? I'd be scared to death it would break and then my fiance would break up with me. It feels rather fragile, a good twist would probably snap it in half. It might last a year, but definitely not ~60 years. We went ring shopping and purchased a traditional metal engagement ring after I proposed, so she has something more durable to wear. She's currently wearing the wooden one on her other hand, and might convert it into a necklace/pendant to keep it safe 
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May 27, 2014 15:29
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His Divine Shadow posted:EDIT: Now I also found this Got this one, finally. It pretty much kicked the rear end of the sheppach in all specs and the build in boom-arm is real nice safety feature. Also a 12" saw this, but takes a 10" blade just fine, found some specs and they seem promising. A woodworker I talked to had looked at this model of saw and said they where incredible machines in their weight class. http://www.rapid-maschinenbau.de/downloads/prospekte/Prospekt%20PK100_EN.pdf So hopefully the last table saw I'll ever buy,
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May 29, 2014 17:37
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German model, 1976, Rapid PK-100, 1100 euros, might offer 900 euros:
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Picked up a Rigid r4511 for $350 CAN yesterday. Wondering if I got a good deal. It came with about 10 blades as well, used but seem sharp and well cared for. The granite countertop seems like an insane feature. I had no idea the thing would be so heavy when I went to pick it up (452 lbs). But man it sure does look nice. I imagine stock slides like a dream on it. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, I need to replace the power cord. I somehow ripped it out at the button end transporting the heavy beast. Was definitely more than a 2 person job moving this thing. In retrospect I should have taken it completely apart, but I only had the truck rented for 90 minutes. I googled it and seems there was a recall in 2009 because of issues using a dado stack. Not sure if this was repaired or not, but I might call them and see if the repairs are still available. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 19:12
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That's pretty damned cool I think. Like the built in castors.
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May 30, 2014 12:50
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The castors are pretty nice. The peddle you see raises and lowers them, so you can convert to proper legs for stability if need be.
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May 30, 2014 14:49
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Congrats on the new saws. Turned box, rocket ship I made for that 2x4 contest and the video to go with it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgEWtjx2ohk
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May 30, 2014 16:40
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Picked up a Rigid r4511 for $350 CAN yesterday. Wondering if I got a good deal. It came with about 10 blades as well, used but seem sharp and well cared for. This saw had an absolutely horrific failure mode if it was one of the recalled ones, so the first thing you should do is run, not walk, to the phone and call Ridgid to see if it was affected. We're talking "spinning dado blades detaching from arbor at speed and flying at user" horrific. I forget whether that was the case for single blades, but I'm a big fan of not having a real life version of Unreal's Ripper pointed at me in my shop.
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May 30, 2014 17:47
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Tim Thomas posted:This saw had an absolutely horrific failure mode if it was one of the recalled ones, so the first thing you should do is run, not walk, to the phone and call Ridgid to see if it was affected. We're talking "spinning dado blades detaching from arbor at speed and flying at user" horrific. I forget whether that was the case for single blades, but I'm a big fan of not having a real life version of Unreal's Ripper pointed at me in my shop. I found the recall notice and it only mentions dado blades, but I plan to call them anyways to be safe. https://www.ridgid.com/Media/Default/documents/safetynotices/R4511_PR.pdf The original owner passed away so I don't have any info on when it was bought or if it was repaired. Hopefully it won't be a huge hassle. Edit: Looks like I'm in the clear. "The recalled saws have manufacturing date codes between CD0829 and CD0837." Mine is CD0948 13118. Phew! I can't imagine I'll be getting a dado stack anytime soon anyways. I'll probably go the cheap route if I ever need one and just make a bunch of cuts with a single blade. At least until I start on a project that needs a lot. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 18:26 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 18:22
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Edit: Looks like I'm in the clear. "The recalled saws have manufacturing date codes between CD0829 and CD0837." You should also check to see if it has the alignment problem that has plagued Ridgid saws, I believe they finally have a replacement part to fix it.
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May 30, 2014 20:19
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wormil posted:You should also check to see if it has the alignment problem that has plagued Ridgid saws, I believe they finally have a replacement part to fix it. Ah thanks, I will check into that. I'm a newbie that knows nothing about this. I'm used to low end master craft stuff, but now that I finally have a garage Im trying to make a proper shop.
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May 30, 2014 20:39
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Ah thanks, I will check into that. I'm a newbie that knows nothing about this. I'm used to low end master craft stuff, but now that I finally have a garage Im trying to make a proper shop. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the MasterForce, Ridgid, and Craftsman are all the same table saw.
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May 30, 2014 20:50
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Stultus Maximus posted:Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the MasterForce, Ridgid, and Craftsman are all the same table saw. Mastercraft is a cheap Canadian Tire brand. I have a few of their tools I got from my parents and they are all really low quality. The table saw is frequently on sale for $100, and its rickety as all hell. I do not recommend them. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-15a-table-saw-0556755p.html#.U4jjuvldWSo Though the belt sander I have from them is great, but I guess its hard to screw that up.
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May 30, 2014 21:01
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Mastercraft is a cheap Canadian Tire brand. I have a few of their tools I got from my parents and they are all really low quality. The table saw is frequently on saw for $100, and its rickety as all hell. I do not recommend them. Ah, I was thinking of Masterforce, which is the Menard's brand. You crazy Candians and your tire shop tools.
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May 30, 2014 21:02
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:
Someone has never had a belt sander with bad tracking!
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May 31, 2014 05:35
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Last weekend I had the honor of officiating the wedding for my best friend and his now wife. I made this mini whiskey cabinet as a gift for them. It was a lot of fun. African mahogany and black and white ebony.     
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May 31, 2014 17:53
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Very nice, love the grain pattern on that mahogany. I decided to build a mobile base for my new (to me) bandsaw. Ended up a lot better than the cheap metal one I have for my table saw, and it was cheaper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTmLx8W_jyg Next time I'll remember to put the wheels on the long side of the frame spread out farther to increase stability. I'll be making another one for my drill press this week, though that will be a pretty different design.
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Jun 1, 2014 15:11
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bimmian posted:I decided to build a mobile base for my new (to me) bandsaw. Ended up a lot better than the cheap metal one I have for my table saw, and it was cheaper. Neat! That's a clever design. Did you come up with it yourself? I might just have to steal it...
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Jun 1, 2014 15:19
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Not totally my design, I just looked at a bunch of other designs and took elements that worked for me and the tool. I made up my own plans for it though. I'm re-designing the latching mechanism now actually to make it a bit easier to control when releasing it, it is a little awkward now unless you just let it go and crash down.
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Jun 1, 2014 15:25
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I picked up an Ikea Numerar butchers block counter top for cheaps but I might have to cut it to size and I figured while I'm at it I should run it through the planer to get out all the previous owners scratches and stains. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40057853/ Just wondering how I should refinish it after planering. I'm going to use it as a work table/computer desk. Light work, mostly taking apart gadgets but I would expect small tools flying about. Rubbing alcohol might drip here and there. The wife might even make me stain it to match the rest of the furniture which is dark brown.
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Jun 2, 2014 03:48
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I used that countertop in my kitchen and then again to make a workbench. I used Minwax tung oil in the kitchen, and polyurethane on the workbench. Several coats of the tung oil (it's not just tung oil, there's probably polyurethane or something similar in there that gives it a really hard glossy finish) on that looks really nice. The oil finish brought out some nice features in the grain.
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Jun 2, 2014 04:11
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Cool. And if I used that kind of ting oil mix, how should I go about staining? What kind of stain will play nice with it?
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Jun 2, 2014 04:40
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For actual cutting boards (and for a few other projects I've done), I've always used Salad Bowl finish and been super happy with the results. It generates a clear hard surface coating. You really have to ladle it on there though; the vertical grain sucks up huge amounts of finish. I wouldn't be surprised if the same holds true for urethane finishes. Minwax "tung oil" isn't really worthy of the name; as far as I can tell it's basically just an oil-based urethane finish. Actual, pure tung oil is way more expensive. I used the pure stuff for some building blocks I made for my nephews and nieces, since it's food-safe. Standard wood stains should work just fine. The color will be different than what you'd get from staining sidegrain, so if you do some test batches to nail down your color choice, be aware of that. Dunno if the endgrain will do that whole sucking-up-vast-amounts-of-liquid thing it does with finishes, but it might!
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Jun 2, 2014 04:51
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Minwax isn't unusual in that regard. Anything labeled "tung oil finish" is basically unrelated to actual tung oil.
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Jun 2, 2014 13:43
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So how do you go about staining and finishing a big counter too on both sides? Do the top and sides first, wait for it to set and flip over. Or maybe do the bottom first so any handling marks are at least hidden after you flip over? Edit: also anyone know where I can rent woodshop time in Los Angeles? Other than at community woodshop.
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Jun 2, 2014 15:45
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Shaocaholica posted:So how do you go about staining and finishing a big counter too on both sides? Do the top and sides first, wait for it to set and flip over. Or maybe do the bottom first so any handling marks are at least hidden after you flip over? I've always done top and sides first, so that any drippage that you don't take care of gets hidden. Don't use painter's pyramids for this, use your cauls or any other scrapwood as riser/supports. This is actually a pretty good chance to make use of planed construction lumber, as the softness means that the lumber will probably dent before the tabletop.
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Jun 2, 2014 15:58
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Shaocaholica posted:So how do you go about staining and finishing a big counter too on both sides? Do the top and sides first, wait for it to set and flip over. Or maybe do the bottom first so any handling marks are at least hidden after you flip over? Do you know any friends with a garage that would let you use it for the weekend? TechShop has't opened their LA facility yet. I also second the recommendation of stain the tops and sides first. I usually put the piece on top of a couple pieces of scrap, wait a half day or overnight and then flip and repeat.
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Jun 2, 2014 16:20
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jvick posted:Do you know any friends with a garage that would let you use it for the weekend? TechShop has't opened their LA facility yet. Not really. You gotta be pretty baller in LA to have a real garage. like >$1mil house :/ I've pinged my company's misc email list. The fallback is community woodshop which just opened but their rates are kind of high and scheduling for their mandatory safety training is far out.
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Jun 2, 2014 16:46
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Yeah I don't think that there's much if any real tung oil in the "Minwax tung oil finish" - it's more of their attempt to make a product that gives you a similar looking finish. Like I said though I think it did a very nice job. Using light coats will help minimize running and dripping.
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Jun 2, 2014 17:50
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So back to putting my butcher block through the planer... 1)Should I even put a butcher block through a planer? Is it safe? ~70x26x1.5" 2)How shallow/deep can most non portable planers cut on a single pass? 3)Is there an optimal finishing cut depth for something like my birch butchers block?
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Jun 3, 2014 18:36
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Is it end grain? If it's end grain, or if any of the grain runs perpendicular to the direction the cutters are moving, you'd be much better served by running it through a thickness sander. Otherwise, you risk major blowout.
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Jun 3, 2014 18:43
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Bad Munki posted:Is it end grain? If it's end grain, or if any of the grain runs perpendicular to the direction the cutters are moving, you'd be much better served by running it through a thickness sander. Otherwise, you risk major blowout. I'm pretty sure the grain is all parallel to the long side/feed direction but I'll double check. I'm not sure if the woodshop I'm going to use has a thickness sander and I'll check that too. Might even use it for finishing vs by hand.
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Jun 3, 2014 18:45
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Also, you may find you get a bit of sniping running it through a planer, which is a hassle. There are ways to prevent that, but it'll require making a sled to run it through on.
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Jun 3, 2014 18:48
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Also, how do I bevel the edges on a big piece like that? I know I can do it by hand using a sanding block but with the edges so long its not going to be very uniform doing it by hand. If I wanted add a substantial straight bevel I guess I'd have to use a table router?
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Jun 3, 2014 18:50
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On a large piece, a router table would be harder, imho. Just use a regular router with a bit that has the profile you want and a guide bearing.
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Jun 3, 2014 18:53
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Shaocaholica posted:So back to putting my butcher block through the planer... Any planer big enough to handle it isn't going to have any trouble. Been years since I've used a big planer but I always start with a skimming cut, maybe 1/32, then adjust from there. A big planer can easily take 1/8 or more at a time but I wouldn't start that way until you are familiar with the machine. Are you sure it's solid wood, no metal rods or anything? How much do you need to remove? Shaocaholica posted:Also, how do I bevel the edges on a big piece like that? I know I can do it by hand using a sanding block but with the edges so long its not going to be very uniform doing it by hand. If I wanted add a substantial straight bevel I guess I'd have to use a table router? Router or hand plane. To hand plane it just mark two lines equidistant from the corner and plane to them.
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Jun 3, 2014 18:55
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wormil posted:Any planer big enough to handle it isn't going to have any trouble. Been years since I've used a big planer but I always start with a skimming cut, maybe 1/32, then adjust from there. A big planer can easily take 1/8 or more at a time but I wouldn't start that way until you are familiar with the machine. Are you sure it's solid wood, no metal rods or anything? How much do you need to remove? I don't -need- to remove much but the board is super heavy. I kinda wanted to remove 1/2" just to get the weight down. I really only need maybe 1/8 to get rid of the scratches and stains from both sides. Plus some of the pieces aren't flush from the factory but they're all on the bottom side. Still might as well make it pretty if I'm already in the shop. Also hand planing seems like it would be really hard to keep uniform on an angled bevel :/
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Jun 3, 2014 19:00
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Have you called the shop and made sure they can handle a 26" wide pieces? If they do, the planner will eat through your butcher block. You can run 1/8" on each side twice switching sides between passes, and you'll be set to go. For the edging, just use a router with the profiled bit you want as was suggested. There are plenty of 45* bits out there.
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Jun 3, 2014 23:24
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For what it's worth, I've run end-grain cutting boards through my 13" thickness planer and not had any problems (both with the cutting board, and (thus far) with the blades on the planer). It makes a godawful racket compared to long-grain planing, and I get contiguous "chips" the width of the piece instead of sawdust. I make certain to stand well clear of the input and output of the planer -- I mean, you do that anyway, right? And I do very small depth increments -- a half-turn at most (which IIRC is either 1/32" or 1/64"). I don't have a thickness sander (didn't even know they were a thing, honestly) and gently caress trying to get a cutting board smoothed down by hand, especially when it contains end-grain maple. You could accomplish the same thing with a router jig to hold the router a fixed altitude, I suspect. I've kind of wanted to build a jig like that, but I don't have the workbench space to set one up.
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Jun 3, 2014 23:30
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Mastercraft is a cheap Canadian Tire brand. I have a few of their tools I got from my parents and they are all really low quality. The table saw is frequently on sale for $100, and its rickety as all hell. I do not recommend them. Mastercraft is really hit or miss. Their planers (10+12") are pretty garbage, and their large hammer drills burn out really fast. Their scroll saws are pretty uninspired, as are their sanders (the orbital ones don't rune true and apply more pressure at the corners), and their biscuit joiners are literally the worst I have ever used (that also includes King). The only power tool they have made that actually impresses me is the Mastercraft 12A Plunge Router with Digital Display. It has all the different fittings and slots for using the Porter Cable guide rings, and a host of other base attachments. Also it takes both 1/2 and 1/4" bits. It's probably the only router under $200 that does all of that. I've finally convinced my dad to stop picking up MasterCrap power tools and instead spend a few more bucks on brands that are actually good and last.
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Jun 4, 2014 05:25
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