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f_c_ posted:Whats wrong with coming up from underneath when your taking the drain plug out? For me that's a long way up at an awkward angle; it's hard for me to get torque on the filter. It also puts you right in the line of fire when the oil comes dripping down.
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May 23, 2014 21:14
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 13:39 |
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I always did my NB from up top (even had a not-quite-scar from it on my left arm) but the one time I changed the oil on my sister in law's NA, I couldn't get it that way. No problem working through the passenger wheel.
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May 23, 2014 21:58
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Having an issue with the rear pads (99, NB). It appears that with the pad locating hardware installed (the brass bits that go into the caliper bracket that you then put the pads on) it's too tight for the pad. The inner pad is fine, but the outer one basically won't move once the pad is installed. Not sure why the hell it's happening. Took it apart, cleaned everything, and still having the same issue. I'm going to replace the brass bits that the pad sits on, but I think this is a recurring problem. Noticed it because after I replaced the front pads and bedded the brakes last night the one rear wheel was hotter than the rest. When I popped it off, the outside pad actually separated from the backing plate. Thankfully I have a spare set of take offs that still have lots of meat left, but this is the second pad in the same location I've had the issue with, and I replaced the brass bits last time too. The caliper is fine, the pad just won't move once it's installed. Anyone have thoughts / advice? Next step is to replace the caliper mounting bracket I guess. I'm going to take a wire wheel to it to see if I can get the brass bits to seat any better.
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May 23, 2014 23:05
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They only don't want to release? Not releasing is commonly the caliper (Or if you haven't gone to SS lines yet, possibly the lines) failing, it's a fairly common problem with Miata rear calipers.
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May 23, 2014 23:14
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Yeah I know about that. That's not the issue here. With the caliper removed it takes a very significant amount of force (I had to use a rubber sledge) to actually get the pad out of the bracket. It's a friction fit to push the pad into the bracket, and once it actually goes in the rubber mallet has to come out to remove it. The pad isn't the issue as both pads move freely on the inside of the bracket, and both pads (and the set of old OEM ones I tried) bind on the outside slot.
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May 24, 2014 00:33
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Have you replaced the old hardware and lubed it up real good? You gotta use copious amounts of brake grease on the hardware, the tabs of the pads, and where the tabs contact the caliper slots. Do that and the pads should slide right in. Also take the caliper pins out, clean and lube those up real good too.
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 00:41 on May 24, 2014 |
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May 24, 2014 00:39
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It's entirely possible I just wasn't using enough grease. I'll try that tomorrow.
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May 24, 2014 03:03
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Hit the ears with a file, I've had to do that on non-miata pads before.
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May 24, 2014 03:51
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A combination of lots of grease, a wire wheel to the brass bits and the caliper bracket itself, and a bit of filing on the ears and it's good to go. Woo.
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May 24, 2014 16:19
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FatCow posted:Hit the ears with a file, I've had to do that on non-miata pads before. Never had to do this on any car, ever. Even buying cheap rear end brake pads. Either way, it isn't going to hurt anything if you file it down and have working brakes. 
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May 24, 2014 22:20
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It's all just floating around anyway.
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May 25, 2014 01:12
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Harmburger posted:Not too much louder, noticeable, but not excessive. My wife has no complaints. It changes the tone, but doesn't overdo it on the volume. Man, I am glad to hear another goon loving that muffler. It makes me wish I still had my NC. 
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May 25, 2014 02:52
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Okay, drain holes have remain clear and I have every bit of water cleaned out of the car, carpeting is dry but has a very feint musty smell. Throwing it in the washing machine just won't work, is there a go-to auto fabric and carpet cleaner I don't know about?
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May 25, 2014 21:02
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I've previously cleaned carpets with simple green and a hot spotter, but a shop vac might do in a pinch. Spray it down with a simple green/hot water mix, and suck as much moisture out with a shop vac as you can. Let it finish drying and reinstall.
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May 25, 2014 23:09
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Harmburger posted:I've previously cleaned carpets with simple green and a hot spotter, but a shop vac might do in a pinch. Spray it down with a simple green/hot water mix, and suck as much moisture out with a shop vac as you can. Let it finish drying and reinstall. I used some Bissel carpet cleaning solution last time but it left a weird odor. I'll pick up some SG later tonight.
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May 25, 2014 23:12
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Fingers crossed, knock on wood and all that but I put at least a hundred miles on the Miata today with nary a hiccup, so it looks like my infuriatingly intermittent misfire was indeed a lovely ground.
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May 26, 2014 02:53
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4487932283.html Thoughts on this as a drive-to-the-track car? It's unclear what was done to the "built" motor besides a mild cam. Smog is going to be an issue. quote:After 4 years I am selling my miata. She's treated me very well, but I don't have the time or space to continue working on her the way I want to, so it's time to find her a new home. I did almost all the work on the car, except for the engine build which was done by Mike Haag at Haag Performance in Martinez.
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May 26, 2014 19:37
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He didn't go into specifics as to what's been done engine wise, but $4k wouldn't be too bad. However, you're in California and there are a million of them there and you have to deal with CARB. I wouldn't drive to the track on the suspension, I'd swap it out with the Xidas ASAP.
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May 26, 2014 20:31
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Find out the details on what EMS it's running, and you really need the details on what was done to the engine to help tune it well. Even 4,000 seems like a lot for a car that's not tuned well, there might be a more serious issue why it needs to run rich. Normally you run a bit lean to get more power out of a N/A engine, but if it's running massive compression then he'd probably have to run it rich. His "running rich to get more power" is suspicious.
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May 26, 2014 20:51
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I wonder if I should buy this, pull the LSD and swap the wheels (my rears are a little untrue and not perfectly righted with counterweighting) and resell the car. http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4488873525.html
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May 26, 2014 23:37
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I'd just buy it. A clean NA w/ a hardtop and LSD? Sounds like a good deal.
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May 26, 2014 23:53
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blk posted:I wonder if I should buy this, pull the LSD and swap the wheels (my rears are a little untrue and not perfectly righted with counterweighting) and resell the car. http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4488873525.html Solid idea.
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May 27, 2014 01:16
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I'm still trying to get the VIN but as far as I can tell Cruise Control on a non-leather 96 = Popular Equipment Package = Torsen, right?
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May 27, 2014 02:27
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Yeah http://www.miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf I like to use power mirrors as a guide because you can always see them in the pictures (they're bulkier than the manual mirrors). On 94-96 power mirrors implies Torsen (but not the other way 'round because of the R-package obviously)
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May 27, 2014 03:04
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Edit: drat, ad was taken down even though I was supposedly going to be the first person to see it tomorrow.
blk fucked around with this message at 06:13 on May 27, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 05:49
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Hog Obituary posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4487932283.html This one already sold too. Seller didn't say how much .
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May 27, 2014 16:08
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blk posted:Edit: drat, ad was taken down even though I was supposedly going to be the first person to see it tomorrow. Rule number 1 of craigslist -- have cash, be there right away. Anything else will result in you losing out on deals.
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May 27, 2014 17:30
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Yeah especially with Miatas, any true good deal is gone within hours around here. You gotta have cash READY at home, not in a bank, and be ready to check it out immediately. I've missed out on deals because I had to work 
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May 27, 2014 22:29
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which is why I feel like the prices this thread finds acceptable are all actually below market value. The "great deals" go quickly because the seller has clearly underpriced them. The market seems to say a clean NA2 with 100k miles and completed t/b and w/p will easily sell at $4000. And if that's what the market will bear, then that's what they're worth, right? To expect to be able to easily pickup a nice car for $2500 is unreasonable unless you're willing to wait and wait and be ready at a moments notice for that one uninformed or otherwise in-a-hurry seller.
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May 27, 2014 23:11
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leica posted:Yeah especially with Miatas, any true good deal is gone within hours around here. You gotta have cash READY at home, not in a bank, and be ready to check it out immediately. I've missed out on deals because I had to work When I bought my Miata I went to the ATM to get the cash. $3500 in twenties takes up a lot of room in your pockets. I had to call my credit union first to up the daily withdrawal limit, but I wasn't letting this car get away.
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May 27, 2014 23:13
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My miata appears to have oil on the front of the oil pan. I dont like the idea of taking the engine out to fix that gasket 
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May 27, 2014 23:52
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meatpimp posted:Rule number 1 of craigslist -- have cash, be there right away. Anything else will result in you losing out on deals. He refused to meet any time sooner than the time we arranged - he said "Soonest I can show it is 7.30 tomorrow"; so I said "OK, I'll see you then." I met the PO of my current Miata 20 min after the ad went up.
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May 28, 2014 00:08
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Nocheez posted:When I bought my Miata I went to the ATM to get the cash. $3500 in twenties takes up a lot of room in your pockets. People here don't have coffee cans filled to the brim with 20s? No wonder why you can't get a sick Miata deal. (i don't, I was being facetious. Pls don't hurt me)
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May 28, 2014 00:47
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Hog Obituary posted:To expect to be able to easily pickup a nice car for $2500 is unreasonable unless you're willing to wait and wait and be ready at a moments notice for that one uninformed or otherwise in-a-hurry seller. Exactly, I've never been lucky enough to get a Miata this way and have always paid around market price, but I've gotten other cars very cheap because I had the cash on hand and was able to meet the seller right away. I have also missed out on deals because I was too slow getting the cash and/or setting up a time to meet the seller. You snooze you lose. I once picked up a Geo tracker for $500, cleaned it up and flipped it for 3k. You just have to be ready to jump on a deal if one pops up. Phone posted:People here don't have coffee cans filled to the brim with 20s? No wonder why you can't get a sick Miata deal. When I'm looking I always have cash stashed at home ready to go just in case. I don't even want to gently caress with an ATM, grab my cash and out the door I go 
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May 28, 2014 01:42
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Ahh, fantastic. Now if you can just provide me a home address and a work schedule?
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May 29, 2014 03:15
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 Sigh, at least they left a note with insurance info.
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May 29, 2014 04:03
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8th-snype posted:
And that's a fairly easily replaceable panel.
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May 30, 2014 11:14
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Beach Bum posted:And that's a fairly easily replaceable panel. I hope that makes progressive happy.
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May 30, 2014 15:34
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God damnit, if I wasn't feeling lazy today... https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4496074062.html
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May 30, 2014 21:43
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 13:39 |
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meatpimp posted:God damnit, if I wasn't feeling lazy today... https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4496074062.html How good of a deal is that? I live quite nearby...
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May 30, 2014 22:10
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