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Your logic is sound, but you'd be surprised. Used car sales are crazy these days, especially on the smaller fuel efficient vehicles. They probably think they can get 18K for it.
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May 29, 2014 18:37
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skipdogg posted:Your logic is sound, but you'd be surprised. Used car sales are crazy these days, especially on the smaller fuel efficient vehicles. They probably think they can get 18K for it. I'm sad to find used cars still holding such high prices. I keep reading that the used market should be back to normal, but I'm not seeing a huge reason to buy non-luxury cars used when I actually search.
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May 29, 2014 20:01
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I have a X-plan discount on Fords through my company. Is it better to just use the X-Plan or should I try to work out a better deal by haggling the price down? They have a 2013 Ford F150 FX2 listed for $51k but the dealer said they might be able to work it down to low 30's since they are dying to get rid of it. Or I can get like an XTS with the X-Plan for probably 28k without any hassle.
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May 29, 2014 20:13
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On cars where there can be big discounts, like Ford's F-150 you can always do better than the X-Plan price by negotiating yourself. As for the FX2 vs. XTS, get the FX2 if you can swing it... really nice truck.
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May 29, 2014 20:38
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Proposed Budget: $18,500 New or Used: New Body Style: 4 door sedan, compact How will you be using the car?: Single urban driver in Florida with a <2 mile daily work commute. Occasional road trips to visit family/friends. What aspects are most important to you?: Automatic transmission, Comfort (interior noise, smooth ride), Fuel Economy, Reliability, Gizmos (see below for aftermarket questions) I've spent some time glancing over many of the previous pages of this massive thread, and often see the Ford Focus and Mazda 3 as the default choice for this price range. The Toyota Prius would be perfect but it's out of my range, and I've heard bad things about the comfort, interior noise and tech for both the Focus and Mazda 3 in this thread and elsewhere online when compared to their competitors. Based on my criteria, it seems that the Dodge Dart, Hyundai Elantra and the Honda Civic would rank pretty high at a glance. But I was wondering if there were any nagging reasons why these models should be avoided or why the Ford or Mazda models are more highly recommended over the competition. I've been leaning toward the base model 2014 Honda Civic LX since TrueCar price has them around $17200 in my area. Seems to offer the most bang for my buck, and the CVT transmission should be perfect since I'll mostly be driving in urban areas. The high resale value plus having a rear-view camera included standard is also really appealing. So with that said, are there any competitors that can meet the price/feature ration that the Civic offers, or are there other models that are superior at this price point based on my criteria. Aftermarket Infotainment / Speakers I don't recall seeing any mention in this thread about people adding aftermarket stereo parts to their cars. The high tech options found in modern cars look pretty awesome, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with 3rd party products in comparison to the factory options. After browsing on Crutchfield, it looks like there are a number of different aftermarket stereos that offer all of the stuff the factory models do but for a much cheaper price. Would it be wise to cut corners by getting a base model and then upgrading the components over time?
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May 30, 2014 00:36
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Twerk from Home posted:Thanks. I want it, but I'm shocked at how much the dealer is offering him for it. The car is a 2011 Prius 3, with cloth and no backup camera or any options, even the steel wheels. All of the TMV and truecar estimations say it should be worth $16,500-ish private party and $14k trade in, but he's got a dealer offer for $16k so maybe I'm missing something. I posted a little earlier about how dealers combine trade-in and the cost on a new car to hide things. It's entirely possible that they negotiated a high trade-in on his Prius because they are loving him on the price of whatever new car he's buying.
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May 30, 2014 01:22
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The Big L posted:Proposed Budget: $18,500 For that price new look at Ford Fiestas or Focii. You don't want a Mazda 3, there is interior noise and the ride is sporty, not smooth. I guess the Versa is usually that cheap too? But it kind of sucks. I can't even imagine a new Civic for 17k unless it has no seats or something. I guess Florida must be super cheap or something. But I mean, yeah, go for that if you can afford it and if it really is new and not "new" from Big Jeffrey's Alligator Park and Car Emporiu Hyundais and Dodges are not as recommended because they are Hyundais and Dodges (Chrysler). Japanese manufacturers and Ford post-US automaker implosion have good reputations for a reason. IRQ fucked around with this message at 01:53 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 01:48
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Buy the Civic. The rest of them aren't bad cars but given your criteria there's no reason to choose them over the Civic. Usually you can get the Corolla for slightly cheaper than a Civic in most places and the Corolla has marginally better fuel economy, but it also gets notably worse crash test ratings. The Jetta with the 1.8T is somwhat power powerful, and the turbo engine is zippy, but gets worse fuel economy and doesn't ride as well, plus I think you have to step up significantly in the trim levels to get a backup camera. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 02:23 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 02:17
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Leperflesh posted:I posted a little earlier about how dealers combine trade-in and the cost on a new car to hide things. It's entirely possible that they negotiated a high trade-in on his Prius because they are loving him on the price of whatever new car he's buying. He's not, which makes me think it's a crazy high trade in price. The seller and his wife are trying to get rid of both their cars before moving to NYC, and apparently are getting $16k for a 2011 Prius and $11k for a 2009 Civic from this dealer without buying anything from them. They said something about USAA car buying service having them get several offers from dealers. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 04:42 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 04:10
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Are you sure he's not just lying to get a better price out of you? USAA's car buying service is just TrueCar.
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May 30, 2014 07:32
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Don't fixate on a 2011 Prius, Toyota made literally a hundred thousand of them.
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May 30, 2014 14:38
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Don't fixate on a 2011 Prius, Toyota made literally a hundred thousand of them. I know its a common car and I'm looking at others locally, it just seems hard to find a deal on them. I'm having a hard time evaluating how much mileage influences depreciation and I seem to have in the same price range ($17k) a choice between 25k or less mile 2011 Prius Twos and Threes, or 2012 Fours with 50k+ miles. Am I right that the newer car with twice the mileage is probably a better deal? Edit: OK, I'll do this right. What else should we look at? Proposed Budget: $19k New or Used: Either Body Style: Hatchback. We've had hatches before, and it really is far more flexible than a sedan. How will you be using the car?: Commuter car for wife, road trip car for two of us. Assume back seat will be in use 20% of the time with friends & family. What aspects are most important to you?: Automatic transmission, low total cost of ownership, new-ish and safe because we are replacing a totaled 2014 Focus and my wife is extremely nervous about safety now, even though I was driving and not found at fault. What have we looked at?Another identical 2014 Focus SE hatch we can get new for about $15k. My wife wants a Prius, and I'm pretty sure a used Prius would be cheaper to own in the long term. $18k seems to get us 2011 low-spec ones or higher mileage higher-spec ones. I want a 2014 Focus Titanium, and it looks like we can swing one new for $18.5k. When I saw "new-ish" it doesn't need to be brand new, but we'd definitely prefer something refreshed since 2008-ish because I'm pretty sure safety standards improved around then. Comedy option: $18k Chevy Volt: http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=370240182 Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 15:49 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 15:31
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Twerk from Home posted:I know its a common car and I'm looking at others locally, it just seems hard to find a deal on them. I'm having a hard time evaluating how much mileage influences depreciation and I seem to have in the same price range ($17k) a choice between 25k or less mile 2011 Prius Twos and Threes, or 2012 Fours with 50k+ miles. If you want a hatchback, don't get a volt. They have zero trunk space because of the charging system and fuel tank. I would also look at new mazda 3's (or older) since they tend to be good. You could look at impreza's as well. I think the Mazda3 and Impreza were in the top 3 (Impreza was 1 and Mazda 3 was 3) for car safety for compacts.
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May 30, 2014 16:03
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The Impreza will be out of his price range new if he wants the bells and whistles (based of wanting a focus titanium I think he does). Probably could get one a few years old though.
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May 30, 2014 18:05
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spwrozek posted:The Impreza will be out of his price range new if he wants the bells and whistles (based of wanting a focus titanium I think he does). Probably could get one a few years old though. I should have listed that. The only must have bell or whistle is bluetooth, but a backup camera and leather would be very nice to have and certainly can be had in a Focus for the price. Edit: We're going to check out a 2012 Prius 4 with nav and 53,000 miles asking $17,700. That feels like a much better deal than the 2011 Prius 3 with half the mileage for the same price. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 22:46 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 19:22
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IRQ posted:Hyundais and Dodges are not as recommended because they are Hyundais and Dodges (Chrysler). Japanese manufacturers and Ford post-US automaker implosion have good reputations for a reason. Honda has had poo poo cars, and Chrysler has had good ones. If you compare cars as company vs. company or badge vs. badge, you're doing better than if you know nothing, but it doesn't protect you entirely. Platform vs. platform and powertrain vs. powertrain is the way to go, even if it is more difficult. But hey, people thinking NEVER BUY GM OMG is what means people can get Impalas for cheap. And it's "Foci" not "Focii."
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May 31, 2014 08:16
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Can someone aware me where I would should be looking if I'd want to snag a used car for under $1500? Basically I've come to a point where my sister won't let me borrow her car (she's 19 and something about her poor driving has her insured, not the car, blah blah blah) and since I need/want to get to places I figure it's time I pony up. I figure a 4 door sedan will do the job. Any advice on what I can read to learn a thing or two about buying a very used car? I'm not entirely clueless but then again I kinda am. Also any idea how much I will be paying for insurance? I'm a 20 year old guy living in Illinois, have been driving for 3 years with no accidents/tickets/violations/fines/etc, and this car will be for "pleasure".
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Jun 1, 2014 01:31
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VideoTapir posted:Honda has had poo poo cars, and Chrysler has had good ones. If you compare cars as company vs. company or badge vs. badge, you're doing better than if you know nothing, but it doesn't protect you entirely. Platform vs. platform and powertrain vs. powertrain is the way to go, even if it is more difficult. It's "Focuses" since it's a proper noun.
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Jun 1, 2014 01:43
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:BFC questions for this thread: Carmax will always offer the lowest "fair" valuation as possible, as others mentioned. If you have space for the old car to keep it around for a few months put it for sale on Cars.com with a Craigslist ad pointing to the Cars.com ad. Expect some tire kicking and trolling but usually a nice person will find your car. In some cases it's easier to meet at the buyers bank who handles all the paperwork for both of you and either pays off your creditor directly or cuts you a check. Remember, in a lot of cases the dealers are making more money from undervaluing your trade-in and dumping it off on auction or selling it themselves so there are dollars for you to capture back with patience. People are lazy and almost always trade-in now it seems, so dealers are taking advantage of that. Once you've gone around to a few dealers for test drives and targeted the type of vehicle and options you want - you can handle everything else via emails and maybe a phone call the day of pickup. You can also apply for a super low rate loan from places like Pentagon Federal that will overnight you a check to go buy whatever car you want. Even if you pay it off in full shortly after, it won't cost you but a few bucks in interest. Credit Unions have car buying services, Costco has car buying services, there are things like Carsdirect or even brokers that charge a grand or so to handle finding the car for you. If you do end negotiating directly with a dealer, which you should do via email, always be armed with information and always go into negotiations with an "invoice up" approach over "msrp down" and be prepared to move on if they are a dick. There is very little reason to do anything at dealers nowadays except show up, sign some paperwork, ignore all the undercoating requests and drive the gently caress off with your car. Hell you can even buy brand new cars from hundreds/thousands miles away and have them deliver it to your house on a flatbed now. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 02:18
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Dangerous Mind posted:Can someone aware me where I would should be looking if I'd want to snag a used car for under $1500? Basically I've come to a point where my sister won't let me borrow her car (she's 19 and something about her poor driving has her insured, not the car, blah blah blah) and since I need/want to get to places I figure it's time I pony up. I figure a 4 door sedan will do the job. Any advice on what I can read to learn a thing or two about buying a very used car? I'm not entirely clueless but then again I kinda am. Craigslist for the hulk, and the pick n pull for all the parts you'll need to make it safe. In the price range you are going for, you're looking for the broken down hulk that is easiest to repair.
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Jun 1, 2014 02:43
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Keyser S0ze posted:Carmax will always offer the lowest "fair" valuation as possible, as others mentioned. If you have space for the old car to keep it around for a few months put it for sale on Cars.com with a Craigslist ad pointing to the Cars.com ad. Expect some tire kicking and trolling but usually a nice person will find your car. In some cases it's easier to meet at the buyers bank who handles all the paperwork for both of you and either pays off your creditor directly or cuts you a check. Remember, in a lot of cases the dealers are making more money from undervaluing your trade-in and dumping it off on auction or selling it themselves so there are dollars for you to capture back with patience. People are lazy and almost always trade-in now it seems, so dealers are taking advantage of that. The interior of the car is pretty lovely and it's a fairly common car (Hyundai Tucson) so selling it privately for higher than what Carmax would give us would be tough I think. If the interior wasn't covered in mystery stains (I have no clue what they are. There are even stains on the headliner. They don't come out either, even with professional detailing) I wouldn't have a problem selling it privately, but I feel like if someone's looking at our Tucson vs another equivalent Tucson with a less lovely interior they're going to pick the other one every time and we'll probably get stuck with it for a while. Also my husband just wants to get rid of the drat thing and I'll have a hard time convincing him otherwise. I'll do some dealer research and shoot out a few emails tomorrow I think. I want to go test drive the cars we're looking at but having to interact with car salesmen is putting me off the whole idea. The salespeople around here are exceptionally sexist and refuse to answer my questions about the mechanical parts because I don't have a penis therefore I can't understand such things so let's wait for your husband to show up, now look at this car over here isn't it a pretty color? It's infuriating. To settle a dispute: there's no "break-in" period for your standard modern car, especially automatics, correct? My husband has been told by his father that you shouldn't drive a new car over 55 mph for extended periods of time for the first 1000 miles or it'll mess up the transmission.  Is this a thing? I don't think it is. I feel like it was probably true something like 50 years ago, but is no longer the case. We're weighing the pros and cons of buying the car before or after a 12 hour road trip which is why this came up, his father is convinced it'll end up with us stranded on the side of the road with a busted transmission because we drove it over 55 mph during the break-in period if we buy it before the trip. We're leaning towards buying it after the trip, but for more practical reasons.
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Jun 1, 2014 03:42
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:
Some cars have specific instruction regarding oil changes -- some says don't change until X miles, some say change early. Follow that. Note that this almost certainly doesn't matter at all unless you're owning the car for hundreds of thousands of miles, we're talking a tiny amount of extra wear.
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Jun 1, 2014 05:24
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Why are all you people buying years old cars with 50k+ miles on them for $18,000? You can get a brand new car for that with better warranty and maintenance you track yourself.
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Jun 1, 2014 16:04
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:To settle a dispute: there's no "break-in" period for your standard modern car, especially automatics, correct? My husband has been told by his father that you shouldn't drive a new car over 55 mph for extended periods of time for the first 1000 miles or it'll mess up the transmission. It's not true at all, and even when it was true 50 years ago it had nothing to do with the transmission. Modern engines are built to such exact tolerances there is no longer any need to break them in. Mostly the "break in period" was to get the rings and valves seated and sealing properly. This is still a thing when you build/rebuild a motor by hand but that's about the only time. Besides - do you think fleet vehicles and rentals get "broken in" properly? Of course not. And they're fine. This is a "thing" that is so pervasive some car companies have actually put break-in procedures in the owner's manuals because it was easier than taking calls from clueless know-it-all-type old men freaking out asking what they should do and why isn't it in the manual.
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Jun 1, 2014 17:06
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thelightguy posted:Craigslist for the hulk, and the pick n pull for all the parts you'll need to make it safe. In the price range you are going for, you're looking for the broken down hulk that is easiest to repair. Also, ask family and friends if they know anybody who's selling a car, too. You might just win the lotto and get first crack at some older car that's been carefully maintained but needs to go away.
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Jun 1, 2014 17:40
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anne frank fanfic posted:Why are all you people buying years old cars with 50k+ miles on them for $18,000? You can get a brand new car for that with better warranty and maintenance you track yourself. Because the only brand new cars you can get for 18k are basic economy cars. Some people want or need more than that.
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Jun 1, 2014 18:33
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Proposed Budget: CA$25,000 New or Used: New preferred Body Style: compact or midsize 4-door sedan or hatchback How will you be using the car?: Mostly for my commute (50km round trip, even mix of highway and urban driving); also a lesser amount of in-city driving. What aspects are most important to you? Efficiency, reliability, comfort, MP3-from-USB support Location: Ontario, Canada At the moment I've got a 2008 Yaris, which is alright (replacing a 2005 Corolla that served me well for many years until a light-running rear end in a top hat totaled it). We need a second car (since my wife increasingly needs the Yaris during the day, and while I can take the bus into work this takes the commute from 30-40 minutes each way to 90+). I'm going to be driving this back and forth for years to come, so ideally I'd like something a bit roomier and comfier and with more features than the Yaris, which is extremely spartan; all of my cars, going back to the VW Golf I originally learned on, have been fairly utilitarian used vehicles, and I'd like something a bit nicer now that I can afford it. At the moment I'm looking mostly at the Nissan Leaf (the $8500 government rebate brings the Leaf S down to $25k, and I get a small discount on Nissans on top of that), or a fully upgraded Toyota Matrix or Corolla, both of which look about equivalent in comfort and gadgetry to the Leaf S. At the moment I think I've leaning towards the Leaf, and I have a co-worker who bought one last year for pretty much the same reason and loves it. Annoyingly, at least in Canada, it looks like you can't customize the Leaf at all beyond choosing the trim; there's some features from the SV and SL trim that I'd be willing to go slightly over budget for, but stuff like the satnav and CarWings I give zero shits about and I'm not willing to go seven thousand dollars over budget to get LED headlights and an improved cabin heater. The Toyotas are more customizeable, but it looks like I could take all the optional features for those and still come in under budget. Mostly I'm looking for (a) a check that I'm not completely insane in shortlisting these cars and/or (b) alternate suggestions that would fit my needs better (or fit them as well but cost less). E: the emergency backup plan if we can't settle on something is to buy another used Yaris for cheap, use that for a year, and then revisit car purchasing next spring ToxicFrog fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 22:44
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ToxicFrog, any reason you aren't looking at the Honda Accord or Mazda3? Also, what does everyone think of the new 2015 Honda Fit that's coming out? Looks like it's been improved nicely, and comes with lots of features for the price point, especially the EX trim.
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Jun 2, 2014 03:45
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APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT posted:ToxicFrog, any reason you aren't looking at the Honda Accord or Mazda3? Mostly because the selection of cars is goddamn overwhelming so I pretty much stick to makes that I have good personal experience with (Toyota) or have had specifically recommended to me (Nissan). I also haven't been paying much attention to hybrids, although I'm not sure I could tell you why. I'll give them a look.
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Jun 2, 2014 04:08
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Keep in mind with the Leaf - especially in warm climates, which may not really apply to you - has some very well documented issues with battery performance long term. Nissan will warranty at least 70% capacity on it which may be fine for your needs. For me, I came very close to getting one but the real-world highway range on a brand spanking new Leaf, as tested by Leaf owners on AZ freeways, is maybe 7 miles longer than my round trip commute, and that's with no HVAC or radio running. Any degradation beyond a perfectly fresh battery for me would put me into running on reserve every night coming home, and there's literally nowhere to charge at work (I tried). Ultimately my biggest reservation with the Leaf is that it's early technology, and I don't think I'd want to deal with trying to sell it outright in a few years. It's a car where leasing looks really good, because the tax credits are essentially taken off the up front purchase price (at least in the US) instead of when you file next year. That, and they're giving it a really high residual that the car most likely won't hit in reality. As far as the car itself beyond that? It drives like you'd expect a car to. Nothing particularly unusual about it, at least on the ~5mi test drive I took.
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Jun 2, 2014 05:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Keep in mind with the Leaf - especially in warm climates, which may not really apply to you - has some very well documented issues with battery performance long term. Nissan will warranty at least 70% capacity on it which may be fine for your needs. For me, I came very close to getting one but the real-world highway range on a brand spanking new Leaf, as tested by Leaf owners on AZ freeways, is maybe 7 miles longer than my round trip commute, and that's with no HVAC or radio running. Any degradation beyond a perfectly fresh battery for me would put me into running on reserve every night coming home, and there's literally nowhere to charge at work (I tried).
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Jun 2, 2014 05:38
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ToxicFrog posted:Mostly because the selection of cars is goddamn overwhelming so I pretty much stick to makes that I have good personal experience with (Toyota) or have had specifically recommended to me (Nissan). I also haven't been paying much attention to hybrids, although I'm not sure I could tell you why. I'll give them a look. The most recent redesign made the Accord better, an excellent all around midsize. The Mazda3 is more fun to drive, but not quite as reliable. Heck, if you were driving a Yaris, most new cars are going to feel quite luxurious in comparison. If you feel most comfortable sticking with Toyota, the Camry (or Camry Hybrid) and Prius might be good choices, too. I haven't driven one, but a Ford Fusion might be worth a test drive, as well.
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Jun 2, 2014 06:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:Keep in mind with the Leaf - especially in warm climates, which may not really apply to you - has some very well documented issues with battery performance long term. Nissan will warranty at least 70% capacity on it which may be fine for your needs. For me, I came very close to getting one but the real-world highway range on a brand spanking new Leaf, as tested by Leaf owners on AZ freeways, is maybe 7 miles longer than my round trip commute, and that's with no HVAC or radio running. Any degradation beyond a perfectly fresh battery for me would put me into running on reserve every night coming home, and there's literally nowhere to charge at work (I tried). AZ is kind of a torture test for EVs; I'm in Ontario, so while it does get stupid hot in the summer, that's stupid hot by Canadian standards - a few days of 40º+ and weeks of 30-35º. And we have a lot more winter than summer. My commute is also relatively short; real-world reports seem to give it a range of at least 100km in all but the most sadistic conditions, and my round-trip commute is half that. quote:Ultimately my biggest reservation with the Leaf is that it's early technology, and I don't think I'd want to deal with trying to sell it outright in a few years. It's a car where leasing looks really good, because the tax credits are essentially taken off the up front purchase price (at least in the US) instead of when you file next year. That, and they're giving it a really high residual that the car most likely won't hit in reality. nm posted:Yeah, there's a few cars I'd only lease. Basically all the electrics, D-class sedan with subsidies, and loving fiats. I'm not super fond of leasing. At least here, the overage limits tend to be pretty low and the savings compared to buying it outright underwhelming. For the Leaf specifically, I think the used car market may be overinflated because no-one is selling them (a two-year-old Leaf SL costs the same as a brand new Leaf S post-rebate), but it's probably not so inflated that leasing is a clear win. Also, I like to actually own the stuff I use, especially if I'm going to be on the hook for maintenance and upkeep anyways. Maybe that's irrational. 
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Jun 2, 2014 13:11
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Lease rates on electrics are extremely favorable, you're basically out of your mind not to do it if you're trying to get one. It's pretty irrational, especially if you plan to finance - you don't own your poo poo in that case either.
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Jun 2, 2014 13:37
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Lease rates on electrics are extremely favorable, you're basically out of your mind not to do it if you're trying to get one. Maybe I don't understand how leasing works? The difference between leasing and buying outright over three years is about $8k for a Leaf S. Three year old Leafs are selling for $22k here. It seems like even if I planned to replace the car in a few years (which I don't unless I end up hating it), I'd come out well ahead buying it unless the second hand market collapses really dramatically. Am I missing something here? quote:It's pretty irrational, especially if you plan to finance - you don't own your poo poo in that case either. We don't.
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Jun 2, 2014 16:08
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Any advice on how to figure out fair prices for Honda S2000s? They're really coveted and tend to go for more than the KBB/TMV prices. Found a Honda S2000 on Craigslist with 63000 miles on it and the owner is asking for $16,000. As usual, he has the same angry disclaimer about "lowballers" as most CL ads tend to.
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Jun 2, 2014 19:53
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Specialty cars like that don't tend to play by the same generalized rules as more common cars. The car is worth what he can get someone to pay for it. If he wants to sit on it for 3 months until someone who really wants an S2K pays him 16 grand for it, that's what it's worth. FWIW a dealer near me is selling a 2007 with 67K on it for 20,995.... and examples with 100K+ miles are going for 14K... makes me think a well maintained car with 63K miles on it might be worth 16K.
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Jun 2, 2014 20:13
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I live in Aus, and I'm looking for a "nice" small/mid sized car which is well equipped. I currently have a 2001 BMW 318i w/ 170k km. Redbook value is ~4-5k trade-in. The car is under a limited used warranty, but needs about $1500-$2000 in work that isn't covered. The engine has some difficult to reach oil leaks (these ones are too hard for me to DIY), a door leak that has been "fixed" 3 times but still leaks, and a rear shock mount that is failing every 6 months. The warranty expires at the end of the year, and I'm nervous about hanging onto it beyond then. Was offered $3k for it today from a dealer who didn't spot the mechanical issues. (the privately listed cars of same age and mileage are $7-15k - but those are the ones that are still for sale and aren't moving well) My options as I see it are: 1) Pay the $2k to repair a $3k car, and keep driving it once the warranty expires 2) accept the $3k, buy something nice but newer (I'm looking at a '07 e60 with 100k km for ~$30k). This would come with a 5 year used car warranty. I figure a 7 year old car in 5 years time will have further depreciated by around a third to half. 3) accept the $3k, buy something Japanese/GM/Ford, no more than 3-4 years old and much less nice. I'm less enthusiastic about this idea because I can't find anything as nice as a luxury sedan in a small/Mid car size, but would consider it if I found something I like. (Where I am, a Lexus is slightly more than the equivalent european, but low end japanese/GM/Ford cars are much cheaper). This option would be something like a '11 focus or mondeo for around the same price as 2). Financially, I can pay cash for any of these options. What does the hive-mind think I need to factor in to my decision making that I haven't already considered? Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 05:23
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I posted a while ago for a nudge in the right direction in regards to buying a used starter car, with good gas mileage and reliability for 2500-3500. The suggestions were really helpful, and a few people said it would really depend on the particular car/owner based on that price range - and when I found one I liked to post it here. On my craigslist search a particular car keeps popping up - which seems way too good to be true - so I'd like you guys to tell me I'm an idiot and a fool for even considering it. 2001-2003 Jaguar X-types seem to be affordable in my area, ranging around 3,000-4,000. I might be crazy, but I've always had some childhood fascination with this particular car, and the thought of owning one for this (seemingly cheap?) price just seems too good to be true. I've heard reliability and cost of repair with Jaguars in particular is bad, but when I look up this particular model I don't see anything out of the ordinary. MSN Autos rates the reliability as good, and the only occasionally listed engine problem is a cheap (or so it says) fix. The gas mileage isn't fantastic, but it doesn't seem horrible either. I can't seem to find any Toyota Camrys, Honda Civics, or similar cars that are this new for a comparable price - what is it that makes Jaguar X -types so cheap? Am I an idiot for even considering a car like this on a budget?
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Jun 3, 2014 15:41
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bouruarofuto posted:2001-2003 Jaguar X-types bouruarofuto posted:MSN Autos rates the reliability as good, Hahaahahhahaha.
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Jun 3, 2014 15:47
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