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Inspector_666 posted:If it's going into an AV rack I assume there will generally be other things making noise around it. I had a Cisco Catalyst 1U switch in my desk back home that I couldn't hear over the fans I my computer, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Err by AV rack I meant 'quieter than a server rack'. I thought people referred to AV racks as racks that live outside of closets and should have minimal noise impact because some multimedia operator will be close to it.
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May 30, 2014 20:18
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Shaocaholica posted:Its going into a AV rack so its not going to be masked by any real rackmount servers. I think I might just go with one of those sub $100 switches without active cooling. The 1810-24g is fanless.
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May 30, 2014 22:54
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I just flashed a new version of Tomato firmware onto my Asus WL520GU router and notice it has a menu for the ethernet ports. It looks like my WAN port is listed as 10M half duplex while the one for my HTPC is 100M full duplex. Is this a problem? I ran a speed test and noticed my download speeds are only hitting 8mb now, whereas I'm supposed to have 20mb (it was testing at that speed a couple months ago). 
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May 31, 2014 18:54
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UncleGuito posted:I just flashed a new version of Tomato firmware onto my Asus WL520GU router and notice it has a menu for the ethernet ports. It looks like my WAN port is listed as 10M half duplex while the one for my HTPC is 100M full duplex. Is this a problem? I ran a speed test and noticed my download speeds are only hitting 8mb now, whereas I'm supposed to have 20mb (it was testing at that speed a couple months ago).
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May 31, 2014 20:13
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beepsandboops posted:If your WAN port is only at 10M half duplex, then that's going to really limit your bandwidth out to the internet. See if you can force that port to 100M full, as it might just be set to autonegotiate and for some dumb reason thinking that 10M half is the best it can do. I tried to disable auto negotiation but that didn't work so I just reflashed to an older version and got my normal speeds back. Thanks!
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May 31, 2014 20:39
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I'm sure this is super basic, but I can't access my server by its name any more. I can still log in by the IP address, and I can play music through Plex / DLNA, but when I click on the server name to access the shared folders I get this: Server is a N40L running WHS2011, the router is the virgin media one that came with my net connection, though the main network is a Ubiquiti toughswitch and AP. I get this error whether I'm connecting through wired or wireless. The server used previously to be on a static IP but is on DHCP now, would that make a difference? I have an Edge Router that's sitting on the side because I can't really configure it and it gets corrupted if you just pull out the power. Might try that, worked well before.
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Jun 1, 2014 13:02
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My ISP allows me to use my iphone to view my TV Channels on my local network. Can't I use a VPN to tunnel home while I'm away and watch my home TV on my phone that way? What would be the easiest way to do this? Setup a VPN using my router or try using Hamachi/OpenVPN. It has been a while since I've created a VPN.
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Jun 1, 2014 16:58
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UncleGuito posted:I tried to disable auto negotiation but that didn't work so I just reflashed to an older version and got my normal speeds back. Thanks! When I flashed Tomato I had to clear the NVRAM first thing or else I had weird stuff happening like you describe. It's usually in the instructions but I got excited that it flashed I didn't finish the last two steps.
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Jun 1, 2014 18:26
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The OP seems a bit out of date and I read a few pages back trying to see. Are AC routers still a bad buy? Ive been eyeing the Asus RT-AC66R or U as the case may be. They seem to go on sale for $90 pretty regularly. Is there a better value out there I should look at?
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Jun 2, 2014 19:28
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So something killed the LAN ports on my pfSense box and took one of the ports on my switch with it. It was a dual core 1.8ghz atom box, ran pfSense pretty nice. Was able to push 55mbps through IPSec VPN with 256bit encryption. Anyhow, in looking for a replacement I came across this little gem: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Built-In-Celeron-Motherboard-GA-J1900N-D3V/dp/B00J0P042U It will be here on Wednesday, I'm hoping it turns out to be as good as it sounds on paper.
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Jun 2, 2014 22:50
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Very similar to this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MS9OI2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2PVRL8L272Y0I&coliid=I1B7R2E97OO0JY I've been debating replacing my current P3-667/512MB pfSense machine that I cobbled together years ago with something like this, just so it's a bit smaller, more powerful, and newer, but it runs so flawlessly that I can't be bothered to spend the money. That Gigabyte board looks like a good, cheaper alternative though. How well-supported are the Realtek NICs versus Intel under pfSense?
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Jun 3, 2014 01:13
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Sadi posted:The OP seems a bit out of date and I read a few pages back trying to see. Are AC routers still a bad buy? Ive been eyeing the Asus RT-AC66R or U as the case may be. They seem to go on sale for $90 pretty regularly. Is there a better value out there I should look at? Where does the AC66U/A66R go on sale regularly for $90? New or refurbs? If those are new, at that price I probably would have taken the chance on that instead of getting the N66U.
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Jun 3, 2014 03:04
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Scott808 posted:Where does the AC66U/A66R go on sale regularly for $90? New or refurbs? Newegg regularly has the refurbs for $105 and intermittently for about $95 I think. I haven't seen the new ones for less than $120-130ish I think. I'm not certain about that last one.
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Jun 3, 2014 05:02
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PitViper posted:Very similar to this My old board with the Atom D2550 chip had Realtek nics that worked great until a power spike or whatever happened killed them. e: this is the kit I had http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=56-205-007 I guess they were Broadcom nics 
e.pilot fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 05:37
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sincx fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2014 19:44
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Im trying to expand my Wifi out into the garden cause summer is coming and nothing beats sitting by the pond in the sun and browsing stupid poo poo. Problem is: My router sits at the other end of the house on the first floor and cant be moved. Wifi inside the house is great but it cant really penetrate the walls. I bought an extender but my laptop is throwing a fit and wont connect to the Wifi if the repeater is present. So i thought i'll use the Gigabit LAN port thats close to the garden anyway and put in an Access Point. But i cant use up that port because i'm using it for my TV. Are there decent Access Points which feature a sort of pass through for the LAN? Or a tiny integrated switch? If not, whats a cheap router that has great Wifi? It doesnt really need to do anything else, the big router deals with all that other network crap.
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Jun 3, 2014 20:13
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Just buy another router and use it as an AP/switch. Don't use the WAN port (unless you do something like flash it with DD-WRT so that you can reassign it to the LAN), assign it an IP that's in the same network as your existing network (i.e. if your current router is 192.168.1.1, assign this one 192.168.1.2) and disable DHCP on it. Congrats, it will now act solely as an AP with a built-in four-port switch.
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Jun 3, 2014 20:23
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sincx fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2014 05:16
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My internet connection is apparently supposed to be close to 9mb (according to the initial reports from the ISP) and it's currently running at 3.6. I've phoned the ISP no less than 800 (eight hundred) times, had technicians out (both line techs and broadband techs) and still they say that the best I can hope for is around 5mb given the distance I live from the telephone exchange. Which is still faster than my current speed (tested this morning at 3.6) Will using CAT6 cables to connect my devices and getting a 'fancy' shielded RJ11 modem cable help anything in any way at all? Is there such a thing as a 'better' network/phone cable or are they generally all the same? Basically the cables i'm using at the moment came with my lovely Sky (I live in the UK) access point/router and i'm very skeptical to the quality of them. People on Amazon are saying "YES BUYING THIS GOLD CABLE IT GAVE ME AN EXTRA 3MB!!!!!" which I don't believe but im curious if cable quality is a factor and if anyone can confirm/deny?
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Jun 4, 2014 11:25
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To troubleshoot, I'd try hooking something up to your modem directly. Also use as short of a cable as possible from your modem to the wall. Try to take out as many variables as possible. How old is the phone wiring in your house?
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Jun 4, 2014 12:31
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e.pilot posted:To troubleshoot, I'd try hooking something up to your modem directly. Sorry I forgot to mention all of those things. House is new, less than 5 years old. I've tried a cable that was about 3 inches long (took it out of a microfilter) it's an all in one router/modem/access point so I can't isolate the modem unfortunately. I've even tried another box entirely (Sky sent me 2 by accident for some reason) and they both generate the same results.
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Jun 4, 2014 12:41
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Hey networking gurus! How many devices can you connect to a wireless router while still maintaining a reliable connection? I am currently using a ASUS Wireless Router (RT-N10P), Motorola SURFboard SB6141, and using Comcast's Xfinity 30/10 plan while having 11 wireless devices + 2 computers hooked up without any noticeable hit in performance. Is it possible to expand to run 20-30 wireless devices using up around 100mb/hr? I already realize I probably need to upgrade at least my router, if so what would I need to get to support that many devices? And how can I optimize my router for such a request?
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Jun 4, 2014 14:35
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Thirteenth Step posted:My internet connection is apparently supposed to be close to 9mb (according to the initial reports from the ISP) and it's currently running at 3.6. Are you on DSL? DSL degrades with distance from the ISP's point of presence near your neighborhood. It starts with a high maximum speed at short distances, and then reduces down to about 1.5 megabits at very long distances. If you are using DSL what the techs are telling you is that the distance between the company's equipment and your house is far enough that the signal has degraded quite a bit by the time it reaches you. If that's the case, nothing you do inside the house will help. Do you have the option to switch to Cable or a different DSL provider?
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Jun 4, 2014 17:44
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Rakthar posted:Are you on DSL? DSL degrades with distance from the ISP's point of presence near your neighborhood. It starts with a high maximum speed at short distances, and then reduces down to about 1.5 megabits at very long distances. I'm about 1.5 miles from the exchange but the website I found that info from also told me that fibre is due to be installed on the 30th so it looks like that's what I'll be buying anyway.
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Jun 4, 2014 18:14
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We're looking at redoing our wireless setup at home, but it doesn't look like the main thread post has been edited in a while. I remember 802.11n had a wobbly start at first but got better after a fashion; is 802.11ac still something to wait on, or is it pretty much prime time? I know it would require updating NICs, but we're okay with that if it means fast, reliable connections. I know the latest Apple router supports ac, but I don't know if it's one of the best options if we're not wanting to overpay. That said, we're also not afraid of plopping down $200 if it's good. And I have an iPod Touch, so I could run the config app. This thread has a nice list of routers, but I think it's probably a bit outdated now. If 802.11ac is the way to go, do y'all know of a trustworthy site with benchmarks/reviews of different models?
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Jun 4, 2014 18:51
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It works well. The AirPort Extreme or Netgear Nighthawk are both decent ac choices. I think the Asus ac models seem to have a lot of problems, although their dual band N models are frequently recommended.
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Jun 4, 2014 19:57
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My wife and I just moved into a new house, so I thought I'd upgrade our home network. Here's a quick diagram showing how everything will be connected (dotted lines = wifi): Fairly standard setup. My office sits above our living room, which is the entry point for our internet connection. The owners actually ran some cable into the wall in the back corner for an easy hookup upstairs. I'd like to take advantage of that, buy a new wireless router, and put a small gigabit switch upstairs in my office. The media server will just be an old laptop for now. Eventually I'm going to build a new desktop gaming PC, and my old one will become the media server. For the wireless router, I was looking at something along these lines (preferably with ac since that is coming down the pipe now): TRENDnet TEW-818DRU AC1900 Dual Band Wireless Router Seems it's fairly new and it's DD-WRT compatible but not stable with it yet. However the reviews I've read so far say the stock firmware is just fine. I'm not sure what to pick up for the extra gigabit switch upstairs. I just need something that will quickly and easily extend the wired network with a few more ports.
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Jun 4, 2014 20:24
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Anyone have any idea why an RT-AC66U would decide to factory reset itself when clicking the "Reboot" button on the web interface? I had lost internet connectivity on my laptop (wireless) while my wired connection was still working fine. I rebooted it and it decided to reset to the factory settings. I was running the latest firmware at the time.
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Jun 4, 2014 21:48
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DizzyBum posted:My wife and I just moved into a new house, so I thought I'd upgrade our home network. Here's a quick diagram showing how everything will be connected (dotted lines = wifi): There are ZERO reasons to buy that TrendNet router. It's terrible compared to the other options, and its not even that much cheaper. Spend a few more dollars and get the Netgear Nighthawk if you want AC1900. MisterAlex posted:We're looking at redoing our wireless setup at home, but it doesn't look like the main thread post has been edited in a while. I remember 802.11n had a wobbly start at first but got better after a fashion; is 802.11ac still something to wait on, or is it pretty much prime time? I know it would require updating NICs, but we're okay with that if it means fast, reliable connections. I am a huge fan of the Apple routers if you can live with their limitations. I've had mine 5 months now and aside from a firmware update I have not thought about it at all. It just works in my house. As for AC, if you have AC clients or plan to shortly get some go for it, if not get a quality N750 or N900 router instead.
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Jun 4, 2014 22:27
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DizzyBum posted:
For the extra switch just about anything will do, they're all fairly decent these days. I've had good experiences with TrendNet, Netgear and TP-Link. A 5 port is gonna be 10-20 bucks and an 8 port will be 20-30 depending on sales. When you count up how many devices you're adding, subtract a port for the link to the router. Newegg has this one on sale today: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-33416007-L020B I haven't used it but it's got 5 egg reviews so it'd probably be fine if you need something that small. I own 3 or 4 of this model which is a bit more expensive but has a metal case (if it matters to you): http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S50g/dp/B001QUA6R0/
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Jun 5, 2014 01:13
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My experience with consumer grade switches is that they're likely to just up and die randomly for no apparent reason, but they're cheap enough that you can just buy an extra one to keep around to swap out if you can't afford for it to be down for more than 5 minutes.
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Jun 5, 2014 01:40
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skipdogg posted:There are ZERO reasons to buy that TrendNet router. It's terrible compared to the other options, and its not even that much cheaper. Spend a few more dollars and get the Netgear Nighthawk if you want AC1900. Thanks, that Nighthawk does look pretty awesome. I'd like a router to last me a while, so I think I'll pick one up soon. I know AC is still fairly new but I'd like to take advantage of it while it's starting to pick up steam. I didn't get an 802.11n capable router until just last year.  Rexxed posted:For the extra switch just about anything will do, they're all fairly decent these days. I've had good experiences with TrendNet, Netgear and TP-Link. A 5 port is gonna be 10-20 bucks and an 8 port will be 20-30 depending on sales. When you count up how many devices you're adding, subtract a port for the link to the router. Nice, an 8-port would be perfect for me. These are some good options, thanks!
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Jun 5, 2014 02:35
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AC isn't really comparable to N. It's a lot more fully fledged compared to where N was at this point post-release and even offers some advantage to clients that don't support it (better signal).
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Jun 5, 2014 03:14
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@skipdogg: Thanks for the advice/info. I definitely appreciate the feedback. I think we will go with the Apple. It's got one less Ethernet port than our current router, but we never use our TV's online features, so it's no biggie.
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Jun 5, 2014 03:24
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Plus you can always get a cheap switch later to add more ports if need be.
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Jun 5, 2014 03:27
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PitViper posted:Very similar to this Got it up and running today. Had to disable ACPI for some reason, which wasn't a big deal to do and it seems to be working fine so far. Just had to add hint.acpi.0.disabled="1" to the end of /boot/device.hints for it to boot up with it disabled by default. Also found out my Linksys SRW2008 apparently got knocked out in whatever power spike killed my firewall NICs as well. Only one port was completely dead, but the switch as a whole just wasn't working right.  Ended up getting one of these to replace it. I'll see how it works out when it gets here on Friday I suppose. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABLU2I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 e: Passive cooling runs a good bit hotter than I am used to seeing, I think I might stick the 40mm fan from the old board on there. 
e.pilot fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 06:28
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e.pilot posted:Got it up and running today. Had to disable ACPI for some reason, which wasn't a big deal to do and it seems to be working fine so far. Just had to add hint.acpi.0.disabled="1" to the end of /boot/device.hints for it to boot up with it disabled by default. While that seems a bit warm (and improving the cooling is never a bad idea), apparently that Celeron J1900 has a max thermal limit of 105C so you've still got a bit of leeway: http://ark.intel.com/products/78867/Intel-Celeron-Processor-J1900-2M-Cache-up-to-2_42-GHz
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Jun 5, 2014 07:28
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Dont buy a nighthawk right now. Bad investment.
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Jun 5, 2014 08:14
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Etrips posted:Hey networking gurus! So after doing some digging around it looks like my best option is to get a beefier router and make my current router an access point. Would the ASUS RT-N66U be overkill and stick to a RT-N16?
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Jun 5, 2014 14:59
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Etrips posted:So after doing some digging around it looks like my best option is to get a beefier router and make my current router an access point. Would the ASUS RT-N66U be overkill and stick to a RT-N16? This is only my own pricing perspective, but the RT-N16 is around $83 and the N66U is about $125, so about $42 (edit: $10 rebate right now on the N16, so make that $52) difference. For me, $42 is not insignificant, but $83 is not inexpensive, so I'd rather spend the extra and go with the N66U. With the N66U you get concurrent 2.4 and 5GHz (in theory, each can operate at up to 450Mbps), the N16 is 2.4GHz only (in theory up to 300Mbps). If you read Toastman's Tomato page, he talks about supporting a shitload of clients on a home router (currently RT-N16s, according to his page) using his variation of Tomato.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:28
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