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Ken- I've been keeping an eye on CL for 8.25s and got ahold of a jeep parts place. They've got a 29spline open diff for $200 and a 29spline LSD with new brakes/wheel cylinders/hardware for $300. I can grab the rear driveshaft at the same time. While I'd like to go do the junkyard thing to save a few bucks I'm super swamped with work etc, and I'm not confident I have the time/tools/knowhow yet. Getting something pre-pulled will allow me to get my hands dirty on my own time (and start gathering all the right tools). Is the limited slip worth the extra $100? My rear brakes are fine afaik so I don't factor those in.
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May 20, 2014 19:27
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Are you doing this ASAP? Because I'm going to do an 8.8 swap on my jeep in the next 2-3 months and if you're willing to wait, I'll give you a pre-pulled, known good 8.25 (29/open) for ... $150? (I think you said you're in SoCal, this would be in the Ventura area, if that helps. I could probably arrange to drop it off but it would be much much better if you picked it up.) \/\/ for what it's worth, this one is out of a 2000 XJ auto/4x4 and I *think* I won't need the driveshaft, but I'm not 100% sure yet. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:42 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 19:29
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Ken- I already forgot what year the jeep you have is, unfortunately. There are some specifics about what year driveshaft you need if it's going in various other years. I have never paid over $150 for an axle in my life (even very desirable dana 60s that I typically sell for 500 or more), but I'm spoiled by rustbelt junkyarding. $200 is a decent price I guess - I would honestly suggest going to the Ecology yards on half-off day if you don't pick one up from Krakkles. As for limited slip... eh. I can get a limited slip diff carrier for 50 bucks from a 90s Durango with the proper rearend (they came with 8.25s and 9.25s, mostly) and slap it in in a few hours of screwing around, so I am not sure I'd say it's worth the extra 100. Up to you, hassle/time vs money, etc.
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May 20, 2014 19:36
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Krakkles posted:Are you doing this ASAP? No, I'm in no real hurry - I might take you up on that. I'm in LA but I'd be willing to swing up your way or find a day when you're in the area to meet up. Thanks for the offer - I'll maintain a casual eye on CL, but keep me updated on your swap!
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May 20, 2014 19:40
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:No, I'm in no real hurry - I might take you up on that. I'm in LA but I'd be willing to swing up your way or find a day when you're in the area to meet up.
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May 20, 2014 19:43
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kastein posted:I already forgot what year the jeep you have is, unfortunately. There are some specifics about what year driveshaft you need if it's going in various other years. Its a 1988 4x4 auto with a d35 rear and what I assume to be a d30 front? I was excited because the ecology near me has a 50% day this Saturday but I have to be at work to supervise. drat you boss, for taking that day off. I'm anxious to get junkyarding but time is the issue currently. I'll probably wait on Krakkles and see what else surfaces in the meantime. Thanks! The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 19:52 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 19:49
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Alright, you need a rear driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4x4 auto with the same engine (I assume 4.0) and a d44 rear (87-90) or 8.25 (91/92-95.) The 96 and later 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25 driveshaft will be several inches too long due to the design change in the rear slip yoke output housing on the transfer case, unfortunately.
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May 20, 2014 23:58
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kastein posted:Alright, you need a rear driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4x4 auto with the same engine (I assume 4.0) and a d44 rear (87-90) or 8.25 (91/92-95.) The 96 and later 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25 driveshaft will be several inches too long due to the design change in the rear slip yoke output housing on the transfer case, unfortunately. Have you considered writing all of this down somewhere so that when you are inevitably consumed by carpenter ants we will have all of this valuable compatibility data?
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May 21, 2014 20:02
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It's all out there, just not in the same place. I've considered putting together a giant gantt chart type thing that shows year changeovers for every part I'm aware of on various vehicles, but I haven't found software that works well enough for me to get more than 5 minutes into it and give up in frustration. Oh, I got the exhaust fixed up on the crapcan XJ last night. A real thrush glasspack muffler is significantly quieter than the lovely $25 swapmeet knockoff I had before, and also built a lot better, so here's hoping it doesn't break in half like the last one did. If I hadn't procrastinated till 10pm before starting (I HATE working on rusty nasty mud covered exhausts) I probably would have gotten a full nights sleep, too.  If the inspection station gives me poo poo about it, I'll grab another tailpipe and a stock spamcan muffler. Every time I have to fix my exhaust I add a flange wherever it broke, so I can now unbolt the exhaust from the back of the cat and swap the muffler/tailpipe out in a matter of minutes. I'd be running a stock muffler but they aren't really durable enough to handle what I throw at them and tend to get peeled open or rip the inlet/outlet tubes out of the endplates in a matter of months, so I switched to glasspacks.
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May 21, 2014 20:10
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kastein posted:It's all out there, just not in the same place. I've considered putting together a giant gantt chart type thing that shows year changeovers for every part I'm aware of on various vehicles, but I haven't found software that works well enough for me to get more than 5 minutes into it and give up in frustration. Sit down with GraphViz. Once you learn it's bizarre domain specific space language, you could make a whole bunch of this-connects-to-this graphs.
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May 21, 2014 20:21
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Beach Bum posted:Have you considered writing all of this down somewhere so that when you are inevitably consumed by carpenter ants we will have all of this valuable compatibility data?
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May 21, 2014 22:10
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walk into the club like "what up? I got a big stick!"  I am not used to input shafts this large.  Or ujoints this large.  Eaton Fuller RTO14615, 12.20:1 first-low gear, 0.78:1 fifth-high gear. With the 46s on and a 6BT first-low-low at idle will mean 55 feet per minute (0.63mph, geriatric walking speed) and fifth-high-high redline will be... 82mph. It has a clutch brake, too  All I need is an 8 bolt SAE PTO blockoff plate (neither I nor the scrapyard owner realized it had a hydro PTO on it when he quoted me a price, so I had to pull it off, he sells those for $1500 alone. Kinda wish he hadn't seen it, but oh well. Also need an SAE #2 bellhousing and to determine how to make the engine I'm going to use work with a pull-type clutch if it doesn't already have one, since a pull-type seems like it would be required to have a working clutch brake. Or I can get an SAE #1 trans to #2 engine adapter plate, but I think that will cost me just as much as a #2 bellhousing. Glad I got this one, it looks like it's in pretty good shape internally and came with a chunk of the driveshaft, so if the ujoints aren't the same style or the trans isn't the same length as what my truck needs, I can use them plus part of my stock trans to tcase jackshaft to make a new jackshaft.
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May 24, 2014 21:20
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Yessss, cant wait to see the 5 ton get some love. When work slows down a little pretty soon I want to come help with that.
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May 24, 2014 23:04
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I'd absolutely love some help with it, once I source a new valve spring for it, I gotta set the valve lash and I can't find my drat feeler gauges plus it's a two person job unless I want to climb under/over the truck like 90 million times. It looks like this transmission is a fun one to shift... it's a 15 speed RTO, so it has a low-low range on the transmission that I can basically ignore unless I'm tooling around in a parking lot or need to win a slowest-car race. Low-Low ratio set: 12.2 9.35 7.22 5.56 4.37 R12.04 Low ratio set: 7.83 6.00 4.63 3.57 2.80 R7.73 High ratio set: 2.19 1.68 1.30 1.00 0.78 R2.16 So basically it looks like I start in low 1st, shift all the way through 5th gear, preselect high range, shift back to first (sixth), then keep going till 10th gear, which is overdrive.  (dogleg box... except 5th and 4th are swapped, because Reasons. That's gonna throw me for a while. This is why I wanted an RTX box, because they have a normal shift pattern, but oh well, I'll get used to it. Anyone who has driven a deuce and a half is already familiar with this goofy pattern, the Spicer gearbox in those uses the same setup.)
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May 25, 2014 02:03
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kastein posted:
4th and 5th are swapped because when you're unloaded you're going to be shifting (maybe 1)-2-4-7-9-10. It's basically for convenience. LL is basically like putting your transfer case in 4-lo, and it's sometimes a bitch to get in and out of. It's definitely not something you just pop in and out of like the low-high range selector. edit: You probably already know this, but you're going to need air in (and back out) of the cab going to the shift knob for the range selectors. And I'm pretty sure you're supposed to have a clutch switch for the range selection, but I'm also pretty sure it works just fine without (it will go into the selected range the next time it is taken out of gear, meaning you just preselect the range.....so like you're in 4th getting ready to shift to 7th, you can just flip the range selector whenever - just make sure you're really ready, or you'll end up doing stupid poo poo like changing you mine to downshift into 2nd and end up in 7th instead - with lots of horrible "I don't drive so good" noises). Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:02 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 15:50
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Fortunately, it came with the shifter lever and all the hoses are still connected! I was worried about that because there are a lot of them. There are 4 hoses on the side of the trans that just go to other spots on the trans, the 4 hoses to the shifter, an air line I need to feed, the speedo takeoff, the clutch lever, and the reverse light switch. I can't find an air outlet. Thanks for the tips on how to drive it - I've got no idea what I am doing, so it should be interesting.
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May 25, 2014 20:17
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Harbor freight chinesium bandsaw is a loving champ: That's 6x1 hotroll plate, went through it easily. The stock chinese blade is even still sharp after two cutoffs, I am surprised. (These are recovery points for the bumper for sandbagger)
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May 26, 2014 00:18
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Finally set up my Snapon YA212 230 amp MIG welder I bought, oh, 3 freakin years ago. Holy gently caress! Why did I wait so long? This poo poo is awesome. Last time I welded 1" plate recovery points to a 1/4" box tube bumper, I had to fight to get any penetration and my welder hated me. This time, welded 3/8" plate to 1" plate on heat setting 8/10, drat near burned through the 3/8" once, and the welder didn't even notice. e: my praise of the HF bandsaw was slightly premature. It doesn't cut quite vertical, need to figure out if that's adjustable. Fortunately, we have a plasma cutter at work that can sever 1" so it should do a nice clean cut on the 2x6 1/4 wall box tube for the actual bumper beam. Bumper to be completed later... kastein fucked around with this message at 03:36 on May 27, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 02:21
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Fun fact: Slung Blade actually won a slowest tractor race, destroying a guy who had the last few years of wins under his belt. That transmission is absurd and will go perfectly with the five ton. Like washing down an entire cow worth of steak with a keg.
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May 27, 2014 14:02
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I want to see you attach the 5 ton to a stump and then inch away in Low-Low-1 at idle.
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May 29, 2014 06:59
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Opensourcepirate posted:I want to see you attach the 5 ton to a stump and then inch away in Low-Low-1 at idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wnh2xcflKAk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqIrR6sBiUs
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May 29, 2014 14:35
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With the tires I have right now, I'd probably just somewhat polish 10 spots on the dirt. Not sure they'd even dig in much. Either that or I'd turn the transfer case into a large pile of metal fragments. Apparently they're delicate (for certain meanings of delicate...) and you're not supposed to punch it in first or reverse with the wheels bound up if you want the cast iron housing to stay in one piece. And that's with the stock 7.something first gear, I can't imagine it'd be any better with a 12.2 first-low gear.
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May 29, 2014 14:59
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New PTO port blockoff plate arrived via USPS just now. It's a genuine Eaton part  Of course, now looking it up by their part number (Eaton 4302809, if anyone else needs an 8 bolt SAE standard PTO port blockoff plate  ) I could have bought it for about half as much elsewhere, but oh well. Ten bucks isn't the end of the world when I just blew a grand on the transmission itself.I guess I'll bolt it on when I get home from work tonight.
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May 29, 2014 18:29
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No PTO? What if you want to run a snow cone machine?
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May 29, 2014 20:17
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The PTO would have cost me another $1500 (and it's worth that) so I passed on it. I think I know where I can get one for cheaper than that... not sure I want to bother, but if it comes with the engine donor parts, I might toss it on. Either way, $800 more and I have an engine. Then a max of $425 and I can bolt the two together. Hoping to have this all lined up in another few months. Still paying down student loans and property taxes or I'd just throw money at it right now.
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May 29, 2014 23:33
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Safety Dance posted:Sit down with GraphViz. Once you learn it's bizarre domain specific space language, you could make a whole bunch of this-connects-to-this graphs. Completely not Jeep or AI related, but thanks for this. It makes killer network diagrams - much easier than fighting with Visio for hours.
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May 30, 2014 16:05
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Threw a new power steering pressure hose on (it has been leaking fluid from a crack in the side for a while... apparently I got to it just in time, the outer casing was cracked and the woven pressure hose was starting to fray.) Tossed a new air filter and coolant temp sensor in too. Hopefully I get a bit better fuel economy now, it's been in the shitter for a while.
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Jun 1, 2014 01:09
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Went to the yard today. Got a matched paint drivers door for the toiletjeep and a matched paint almost immaculate hatch! With a working latch! Going to swap that on sometime. Also got a cd deck (that doesn't work, just like the last one I bought  ) a black righthand 97-01 XJ kick panel for a friend and a 99-01 gm cable-throttle for my friend with the LQ4/nv4500 (previously sm465)/doubler/d60/14bolt/40" tired J10 that I posted pics of from when its flywheel exploded and almost took his right foot with it. It destroyed the drive by wire pedal module, transmission, engine, harness, etc so he took the opportunity to switch to cable throttle when rebuilding it.(Sadly not mine) 
kastein fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 21:33
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Freakin' finally, found a source for a new valve spring for the stock engine! They wanted $7.50 for the inner valve spring I felt silly paying shipping for that, and making them spend 20 minutes pulling it off the parts engine, so I'm buying a valve spring seat, both springs (inner and outer), valve spring retainer, and two keepers for a whopping $28 plus shipping. Having spare parts around for that cheap when I can't get them at all locally is well worth the time/money. Memphis Equipment rocks.
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Jun 3, 2014 22:46
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 Have I mentioned how much I hate exhaust welding? Well, yeah, I do. Boogered that pile of poo poo together in record time. The door handle makes a great spot to hang the exhaust system to dry, at least. Used high temp silicone/ceramic paint, even though most of it burned off last time I used it, it's better than nothing. I've had a number of discussions with a number of fine upstanding officers of the law concerning my exhaust (cherry bomb, was tired of ripping spamcan OEM mufflers off in the woods) and while the same exact exhaust with LESS tailpipe passed inspection at my local station a year ago, I am sick and tired of wasting 15 minutes speaking with the police about it on my way home from work. So I bought another tailpipe, grabbed a brand new stock muffler off the stockpile of OE parts I never got around to using, cut the old 4-bolt flange off a random smashed up downpipe in the scrapmetal pile, and booger welded it all together to fit. So now I can unbolt it, pull the hangars out of two rubber mounts, slap the cherry bomb (with its welded on tailpipe and flange) back on instead, go beat the hell out of the thing in the woods, come back, and swap my stock exhaust back on in another 5 minutes instead of worrying about getting a fixit ticket *again* on my way to work Monday morning after a weekend of fun. And I just realized that literally every single bolt in the exhaust system, all the way from the cylinder head to the flange for the muffler, is now 9/16" head, 3/8" UNC thread. I think I need two or three tools to conveniently work on any portion of my exhaust at any time, accidental ease-of-maintenance feature right there
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Jun 5, 2014 05:49
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You know I'm not a huge fan of LEOs generally, but compared to the horror stories I hear coming out of the NE, and Massachusetts in particular, our cops here are loving angels. Also I am very happy to work within biking distance of home, which makes vehicles of questionable legality that much easier to own.
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Jun 5, 2014 06:35
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 Any opinions on this 79 CJ5? I need something with no top for this summer, and this thing looks to be in better shape than the 1st gen broncos I've been looking at.
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Jun 5, 2014 07:48
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kastein posted:Thanks for the tips on how to drive it - I've got no idea what I am doing, so it should be interesting. Unless the entire bed is full of gravel and you are messing round in the snow chances are you wont use the low 5 gears. One of the container trucks at work has a 15 speed (Blue selector), I messed around with the low low box and in low 5 I could do 15 kph at just below redline 2300. And when shifting out of low low into low range you go from 5 ll to 3 then otherwise the speed difference is too great and you end up slowing down. They are genuinely crawler gears. As for preselect its easy on this box as there is no half gears to worry about. If I was speeding up and soon as I get into 4th or 5th I'd flick the range selector up to then change into hi range. If I'm slowing down to a compulsory stop, since I'm lazy (I'm often only 16 ton heavy) I leave it high range until almost stopped where I then flick it down and select my gear to take off in.
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Jun 5, 2014 11:39
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Vim, I have literally no idea about CJ stuff. Sorry  Anphear, good to know. I mostly just wanted the OD and it was in my budget range and strong enough, so I jumped on it. e: well whoever got that title was pretty much spot on 
kastein fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 16:51
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Vim Fuego posted:
Check for rust/cracks in the frame, and rust in the tub if it's original and cracks if it's fiberglass. The drive train is rock solid and stone age tech, so unless something is obviously wrong, it'll run forever. No special issues to really look for on that year.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:29
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Took my inaugural trip to the junkyard today, armed with too many goddamned tools. Found three XJs - I was mainly looking for 8.25 swap stuff, a fullsize spare steel rim and a rear taillight assembly because mine is cracked. Found two D35s, one good steelie and two other busted left taillights. Third XJ was a 4.0/1995/4x4/auto with a 8.25. Someone had opened the diff and pulled the gears (politely leaving the cover in the car so I could tell what it was), but the rear driveshaft was still there. I fumbled haplessly in gloved hands at my sheafs of printed Kastein posts: kastein posted:Alright, you need a rear driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4x4 auto with the same engine (I assume 4.0) and a d44 rear (87-90) or 8.25 (91/92-95.) The 96 and later 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25 driveshaft will be several inches too long due to the design change in the rear slip yoke output housing on the transfer case, unfortunately. I pulled it out and bought it along with the rim and a few spare hoses. Assuming I buy Krakkles' 2000 8.25 29spl (and assuming he needs to keep the driveshaft, otherwise it's a spare) that should fit together right? I was unable to get the differential pinion yoke off, as I lacked a 1 1/4" socket. Right as I was removing the driveshaft, someone in a mechanics uniform stuck their head under the car and inquired if I needed the other yoke He then asked me questions about it matching 2wd Toyota transmissions. I muttered something about a Jeep Whisperer on the internet, and he left.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:05
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 His driveshaft unfortunately won't fit yours, since the 96 and up use a different style tailcone and seal on the transfer case rear output that are a different length. That's why I was careful to specify a 95 and down donor for the driveshaft for your swap. Yes, his axle, the driveshaft you got, and your jeep will combine well. The one remaining thing you need is a set of U-bolts for a 3" round axle tube, assuming you didn't get the ones from the driveshaft donor vehicle and can't get the ones from Krakkles. I honestly usually suggest buying new U-bolts anyways, they stretch somewhat when installed and you should retorque after roughly 100 miles when you install the axle. Another thing you might consider getting (it's somewhat optional, but I usually do) is a new set of ujoint straps and bolts. They're dana/spicer part number 2-70-18x, like $5 on northerndrivetrain.com. Pick up a spare 5-153x driveshaft ujoint at the same time, they're $12 or so. The threaded holes in the pinion yoke on the axle for the straps/bolts are 1/4-28 UNF thread. I always run a tap through them before installing the new stuff, you probably won't need to, being outside the rust belt, but it's best to have no dirt in the threads because they jam up easily, being so small. Oh yeah. Here are some pictures of a loving BULLSHIT WIRING HARNESS REPAIR I HAD TO DO BECAUSE CHRYSLER SUCKS All spliced back together. MIL-22759/16-12 wire for the defrost grid, MIL-22759/32-20 for all the other circuits, except the wiper motor circuit which got doubled-up MIL-22759/32-20 because a single #20 wire didn't "feel" heavy enough for that purpose.  And all wrapped back up in dry vinyl, with a gap and a piece of braided loom over the flex section and a rubber flex boot over that:  Here's hoping I don't have to gently caress with that again because I might burn it to the ground instead.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:21
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kastein posted:
 rightkastein posted:Yes, his axle, the driveshaft you got, and your jeep will combine well. The one remaining thing you need is a set of U-bolts for a 3" round axle tube, assuming you didn't get the ones from the driveshaft donor vehicle and can't get the ones from Krakkles. I honestly usually suggest buying new U-bolts anyways, they stretch somewhat when installed and you should retorque after roughly 100 miles when you install the axle. Fantastic. Yeah, I was planning on buying new UBolts/joints/etc. I'd rather have brand new ones. Quick question: should I go back with a bigger socket and pull out the differential yoke? Will Krakkles yoke interchange with mine (assuming, again, that he doesn't need it for his 8.8?) kastein posted:The threaded holes in the pinion yoke on the axle for the straps/bolts are 1/4-28 UNF thread. I always run a tap through them before installing the new stuff, you probably won't need to, being outside the rust belt, but it's best to have no dirt in the threads because they jam up easily, being so small. Good tip. Speaking of rust: let me know if there's any west-coast unobtanium rust-free stuff you need. I'd be glad to send you anything I am able to pull as thanks for your help. You pay shipping if it's heavy poo poo
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Jun 7, 2014 02:04
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haha, thanks! I can't think of anything at the moment, but might. His yoke won't fit the 8.8 at all, so it'll probably come with the axle unless he keeps it for some other reason. The Ford axle uses a Ford companion flange and a dana/spicer 2-2-1379 adapter flange to connect to a Jeep 5-153x/"1310 series" ujoint. If you pull the yoke as a spare, you'll need a big rear end socket (iirc it's 1.125" or 1.25" for an 8.25) and a breaker bar... plus a pipe wrench that will fit across the yoke, I think my 2 or 3 inch pipe wrench is what I usually use.
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Jun 7, 2014 02:17
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Eastwood order came in! Internal frame coating, two tubes of high solids seam sealer, a bag of panel welding clamps, and rust converter. Guess what I get to repair? Rotted XJ rockers 
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Jun 9, 2014 16:34
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