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I have these, which would fit your bike. They are the longer post version (silver part of that kit) so that it protects more sticky-outy components of your bike. I have pucks and everything needed, still in their box. It's no pressure. If you don't pick them up, I'll keep them for the future or post em up. But if you like them, I can save you some coin (40+). They are really well designed. I especially like that you don't have to cut the slider pucks off after they are "used" to replace them. If you knew how hard it was to cut thrashed motosliders off to access the bolt, you'd think twice about using them. http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=50-0224
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Jun 3, 2014 07:12
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Much appreciated. I'm trying to locate photos of someone using those on the full faired SV. It was my understanding that the only ones that could be run without cutting the fairing were the Motosliders or R&G's sliders. Both of which are silly expensive. I'm gonna do some more research. Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2014 07:30
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T-Rex has a set of no cut sliders that I got. http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=252 This is the best pic I have at the moment.  I'll get a closer pic after I get off work.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:20
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Gatla posted:T-Rex has a set of no cut sliders that I got. Man, Motosliders must have some good SEO. I never found these when I was searching for sliders on google. These look nice! And they're reasonably priced and located in Texas. I'm thinking about ordering these along with their trailer restraints and some spools. Thanks! Edit: I spoke too soon. Looks like you can't use their restraint system with just swingarm spools. You need axel block spools which no one makes for the SV. Looks like I would have to buy the Pitbull TRS. 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 22:28
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Those trex sliders look good. If they protect the whole fairing as much as others and mine, you should consider getting that instead of my thing. Don't be afraid to mix and match. Most sliders are similar in some way, and your bike wont end up looking ugly. Post what swing arm sliders you go with. I need one eventually, and am still unsure what I should get. For now my yoshimura was nice enough to take one for the team on the last down. Speaking of, if you ever decide to switch out your exhaust, yoshi has just about the best sound around. It's more refined and "tuned" than the rest, which seem to just be about being very loud and messy. This is a personal opinion, though, so shop around for sounds. Either way, I never tire of it.
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Jun 4, 2014 16:16
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Coydog posted:Those trex sliders look good. If they protect the whole fairing as much as others and mine, you should consider getting that instead of my thing. I'm trying to keep a budget and still do a few track days so the exhaust will have to wait. I'd like to avoid being obnoxiously loud. Does the Yosh have a silencer or baffle that you installed? Also is there any benefit to a "full" exhaust since our bikes don't have cats? Do you have a Power Commander? I see a lot of fanboys praising the m4 slip on. What's the deal with that? While we're at it, can someone direct me to a good write up for the r6/GSXR/whatever throttle tube for the 08 model? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 20:36
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How much should I pay for a clean first gen? I'm looking at a 2000 with 30k miles, they've got it listed for $2700. I'm thinking $2200 max.
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Jun 5, 2014 03:02
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MetaJew- Look here for the r6 throttle tube info. http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/bike/r6-throttle.php Aftermarket exhausts for the SV. Let me preface this by saying that I know other people have delk or M4 and like them and there are those in this thread who have them. I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings if you have one (and sorry if you have one), and hope we can still be bros. This is just my own (strong) opinion. The SV in stock form is nice and quiet. In fact, the engine is louder than the exhaust. Because of this, unless you are wringing the life out of it over 9k (which sounds glorious), it sounds like a lawn mower. You know, the kind your dad had that you pushed and just made one EEEEHHHHHH noise. It's serviceable for stock on the SV, certainly many people keep it stock and there is nothing wrong with that. If the only options were stock, and M4/Delk/whatever, I'd say stick with stock. At least you wouldn't go deaf with your bad sounding bike. Like I said, stock is ok, it's just choosing stock mundane or choosing the ride of your life with sounds akin to an exotic italian sportscar. For ages I was ok with stock, but got a little tired of the boring drone. Sound is so important on a vehicle. It's a huge part of the experience and one of your five senses. When I would go to meets and people would be all "LOOK I have an M4! Listen to it!" Then they would idle and rev and all that looking at me expectantly like "yeah!? yeah!? what did I tell you?" and I would smile and nod and tell them their bike sounded great. What it really sounded like is a broken bag of discarded motorcycle sounds. Like at the motorcycle sound factory they had these defect sounds from a hundred bikes and they scrapped them to the defect bin to be destroyed so the public never had to hear that. Then jim bob assembly line guy thought "naw these still work! its still a sound right?" and M4/delk/2bros every cheap exhaust was born. Yeah, I get it, it cost less than 200! HINT, that's why your bike sounds awful. It costs money to have someone care about tuning the sound in an exhaust. You can't just go to home depot and add some carbon fiber and call it a day. All those exhausts are SO LOUD. It's like they make up for their badness in volume. Or maybe so many riders just don't care HOW it sounds as long as it's loud. Works for the harley guys. So for the longest time I thought that the v-twin was the problem. All these exhausts, including stock, sounded bad. Clearly the problem was the v-twin. Then I heard a yoshi and it was one of the best exhaust notes I'd ever heard. Here, listen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PQFyO6grh0 That's a full exhaust, but trust me my slipon sounds the same, and in person it's twice as refined and amazing. That's what a bike should sound like. Not just one sound over and over, but a symphony of sounds. Throughout my rides I'm always treated to an entirely new and entirely incredible chill inducing sound. I've had my slipon for several months, and I never tire of it. I look forward to it. At every rpm, at every load, at idle, everything is amazing. Even my buddy with a C63 AMG confirms it's insane, and he is an exhaust enthusiast. Best of all, it's not very loud. I like that most. Mine didn't come with the silencer plug ($20) and it's still not obnoxious. I mean it's obnoxious under load, but you can still throttle it so it's very very quiet too. But it's not brazen, just refined and good. I've spoken with my neighbors (because I care) to see if it wakes them or bothers them, and they can't hear it at all. These same neighbors complain about people driving by with loud music. The silencer plug is optional, so if its too loud just put it in. My earplugs which I wear anyway are perfect, and I have no ear strain from it, yet can still hear it in it's glory. Without plugs it's a little loud, but only because the tones are so pronounced and you are right on top of it. Still, wind noise is far worse. Wear your earplugs. Yeah they are pricy, but I got mine brand new on craigslist for 150. Look around and something will turn up. If not, get one anyway because no joke it's amazing. Also, it looks beautiful.   And no, you don't need a power commander if you are just doing the slip on. If you do an intake, too, you'll need it. As is, I get great performance, reliability, and burbles/pops. It's like a drug in audio form. Coydog fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 05:12
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Dutymode posted:How much should I pay for a clean first gen? I'm looking at a 2000 with 30k miles, they've got it listed for $2700. I'm thinking $2200 max. 2000 max, maybe less. I paid 2700 for my 2nd gen with 25k, and it was upgraded to hell and back with all the right stuff (yeah I know that doesn't add value). Do you have a link to the listing?
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Jun 5, 2014 05:46
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Coydog posted:2000 max, maybe less. Seconding this. I bought my 2000 with 27K miles, single owner, old man ridden, no mods, dealer maintained, full service manual and Corbin seat for $1200. Of course it wasn't running at the time, it needed tires, battery, fluids and a carb cleaning, but I was riding it within a week. If the bike had been running at the time with decent tires I'd have given $2K for it tops.
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Jun 5, 2014 15:05
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Here's what I was looking at, I'm trying not to get my hopes up too much about talking them down since it's a dealer. http://dreampowersports.com/import/2000-suzuki-sv-650-485/ And here's the CL ad where I first saw it. Since it's still there, I doubt they're taking "any reasonable offer." http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcd/4460686298.html
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Jun 5, 2014 15:44
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Honestly I'd just hang around and wait for a much newer one to pop up. Some kid will inevitably discover that his SV is boring and want to trade up. I'd at least go for second gen - especially if you can find one with GSXR mods done. E: Maybe something like this? It was posted a while ago but I just ran a quick SearchTempest query for SV650's. If it's still available I bet you can get it for 3k. http://ksu.craigslist.org/mcy/4472279687.html Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 16:25
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Honestly I'd just hang around and wait for a much newer one to pop up. Some kid will inevitably discover that his SV is boring and want to trade up. I'd at least go for second gen - especially if you can find one with GSXR mods done. That one looked nice, but I'm hoping to keep the cost around $2500 max and I prefer the naked look/seating position. Is a second gen really that much better? Actually, I would almost be more interested in the fz6 there. I may be really bad at shopping for motorcycles.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:45
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I don't really have a strong opinion about exhaust brands or anything, but you make it sound like M4 is some kind of budget brand compared to Yoshi. The difference in MSRP on a race full stainless system is $70 between the two brands... The slip-ons are like a $30 difference brand new.
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Jun 5, 2014 19:36
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Fair enough, I had been looking at them being 350-500, so I stand corrected. This is, however, more reason to just choose yoshi. It's a personal preference.
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Jun 5, 2014 22:09
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Dutymode posted:That one looked nice, but I'm hoping to keep the cost around $2500 max and I prefer the naked look/seating position. Is a second gen really that much better? Idk, FI is pretty bitchin and worth some extra dough plus I just think Gen 2's look better all around. I think FZ6's and SV650's are two different beasts. Putting clip-ons on an SV will make it feel much sportier than an FZ. Also I4 vs. V-twin. I think you can probably find a comparatively better deal on an FZ - they seem to be consistently priced cheap for their age.
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Jun 5, 2014 23:28
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I agree they'd be very different and I'm sticking to an SV for my next bike, but an FZ-6 would still be fun. What exactly will FI do for me?
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Jun 6, 2014 00:08
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Coydog posted:Fair enough, I had been looking at them being 350-500, so I stand corrected. This is, however, more reason to just choose yoshi. It's a personal preference. Entirely fair. I haven't had the opportunity to hear either one on an SV in person. I should probably look and see exactly what aftermarket exhaust the PO stuck on my '04... Also the only reason I really knew that is because M4 is THE high-end exhaust of choice for the NT650, probably due to a general lack of market, but I lusted after a full M4 system for my '88 Hawk GT for a long time.
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Jun 6, 2014 00:15
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Dutymode posted:I agree they'd be very different and I'm sticking to an SV for my next bike, but an FZ-6 would still be fun. Make you not have to sit there for 5 minutes every time you cold start it to let the engine warm up (from what I can tell of my dad's FI bike vs my carb'd thumper)
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Jun 6, 2014 01:12
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Razzled posted:Make you not have to sit there for 5 minutes every time you cold start it to let the engine warm up (from what I can tell of my dad's FI bike vs my carb'd thumper) Exactly. You can start the bike and then immediately ride off. It may have slightly less power until it warms up (my SV seems to do this), but you won't have to sit in the driveway feathering the throttle for five minutes, like I have to do on my scooter.
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Jun 6, 2014 01:23
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Plus generally FI isn't going to be as fussy about cold mornings, high altitudes, etc
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Jun 6, 2014 01:31
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Dutymode posted:What exactly will FI do for me? Do you like tuning carbs? Carbs suck.
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Jun 6, 2014 02:22
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Oh yeah, FI is really great. Having the bike start first time every time with no fuss is so nice. As others have said, you can just start and go. Just don't hoon on it until the temp is up and you are good. Oh yeah 2nd gen has a digital temp readout, which I really enjoy. I know exactly how soon and how much I can play, as well as monitor temps on hot days/stoplights. The digital speedo is completely bitchin, and you retain the ultra cool huge analog tach. Not having to ever mess with (or worry about) carbs was a huge factor for me, too. Baller Witness Bro posted:Putting clip-ons on an SV will make it feel much sportier than an FZ. Why do you say this? I'm genuinely curious, and they seem like they have similar size/suspension. Wouldn't i4 be punchier than Vtwin?
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Jun 6, 2014 02:36
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Coydog posted:Oh yeah, FI is really great. Having the bike start first time every time with no fuss is so nice. As others have said, you can just start and go. Just don't hoon on it until the temp is up and you are good. Oh yeah 2nd gen has a digital temp readout, which I really enjoy. I know exactly how soon and how much I can play, as well as monitor temps on hot days/stoplights. The digital speedo is completely bitchin, and you retain the ultra cool huge analog tach. Have you sat on both? FZ6's are very upright with their bars - I think they have a few inches of rise in them from where they bolt to the clamps. SV's with clip-ons will feel pretty much like a sportbike - at least it did to me. I've never seen anyone try to put clip-ons on an FZ but I imagine it wouldn't work out that great. E: You can use http://cycle-ergo.com to compare. Decrease the bar height of the SV to get a good comparison between a stock FZ6 and an SV with clip-ons. Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 16:19
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I was looking for second gens when I bought my curvy, but dealing with the choke and carbs has never bothered me. I give it a little choke on cooler days and let it run while I put in my earplugs and get my helmet and gloves on, and that's it. I ride with the choke on for a little while until it idles normally and then I give it hell. I don't tend to ride in less than about 45 degrees, though, mainly because I don't have to. I had to work a lot on the carbs when I was restoring the bike (cleaning, replacing gaskets, synching, etc.) and my life probably would have been equally fulfilling if I hadn't had to do that, but I never thought it was a big deal. I've worked with quite a few carbs over the years on old VW's and lawn mowers, though, so maybe it's a comfort level thing. Maybe I'm just old.
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Jun 6, 2014 16:27
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Alceste, to each their own. Carbs worked for years, and are still put on modern bikes. I just enjoy driving/riding and don't enjoy turning a wrench or having one extra level of troubleshoot complexity. For this reason, I stayed away and recommend against when someone has the choice. Baller Witness Bro- I have not sat one one, and it was so late when I looked up a picture that I thought the side view was showing me it had clipons. Looking today I see what you mean, and it looks like the front fairing covers where you could even put clipons. I really like the upright handlebars on my n, but clipons are so cheap I've been tempted to grab some and see how the other side lives. Maybe when I'm a better rider. Really cool that yet again the SV is better for me. Thing is, I'd have to remove the top of the triples to get it on and forget that. It looks like I'd need to hang the bike from something first, or something might spring out and hurt me. I don't know how that area goes together.
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Jun 6, 2014 17:20
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You can remove the top triple clamp any time you'd like. Just leave the bottom clamp tightened on. Nothing will fall off or spring apart or anything. You'll have to loosen the clamps on your old bars potentially to loosen the nut holding the steering stem to the top triple but that's easy as well. Then you can take off the top clamp, place clip-ons onto the fork tubes and replace the triple. You may be able to unbolt the stock bar clamps from the triple tree depending on how they're set up - that should cut down on clutter and look a lot better. Keep in mind if switching to clip-ons you'll need to transfer over your levers and switches and such to the clip-ons and buy some new grips. It should be a very straight forward change but may require a bit of routing changes or slack in the cables.
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Jun 6, 2014 17:38
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Thank you for teaching me that. I didn't know it was so easy. Now I really want to try the clip-ons when I can. I have gsxr triples, so I guess I need gsxr clip-ons. Why new grips? Won't my old rubber work? For the handlebar part, my LSL topper lets you take everything off so you are just left with four clean and not noticeable holes. I love it.
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Jun 6, 2014 19:27
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I'd stick with clip-ons made for your fork diameter if you have the stock ones still. You'll likely need new grips because the clutch side is probably glued on there and would require cutting to remove it. Your throttle grip comes off with the whole assembly so while it won't technically need replaced you'd have a mismatch set if you don't.
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Jun 6, 2014 19:48
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I have gsxr forks on there, so that means I need gsxr clip-ons? I can get the grips off, but they are worn and I plan to replace them soon anyway. Thank you for explaining the purpose of the act, though. This is really cool. I love how with a little bit of effort, I can own a completely different bike/style of riding. Plus, I can switch back easily whenever I want.
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Jun 6, 2014 20:03
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Yes, you'll need GSX-R clipons - they're typically 50mm. Double check, though.
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Jun 6, 2014 20:04
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Coydog posted:MetaJew- Look here for the r6 throttle tube info. http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/bike/r6-throttle.php I'm on my phone so maybe I didn't see all the details, but are there better instructions on how to modify the R6 tube for a gen2? This article just seemed to say it wasn't as easy. Also, I take it you retain the stock throttle cables, right? I think I also read people saying that they adjusted something to do with when the FI kicks in and the throttle position sensor.
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Jun 6, 2014 20:15
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Yeah you keep the stock cables. Really all you need to do is shave down a portion of the tabs on the new throttle. This is the picture of what you need to cut. I did it with a dremel pretty easily, although slowly to make sure I didn't take too much. I need to cut down ever so slightly more, like maybe another 1/16th of an inch to get the idle lowered to normal, but it's an incredibly minor difference, so I haven't bothered yet. But yeah, that's all you need to do.
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Jun 6, 2014 23:00
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Nur_Neerg posted:Yeah you keep the stock cables. Really all you need to do is shave down a portion of the tabs on the new throttle. Cool! I think my brother actually had a 2006 R6 throttle tube lying around since he bought a MotionPro unit. From what I can tell, that model tube will work.
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Jun 6, 2014 23:05
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So I just replaced the old de-snorkeled air filter in my 2000 SV650 with a new, also de-snorkeled filter and the bike developed a flat spot from 6-8k rpm, as if the engine was struggling. I inspected the filters and they look to be exactly the same as each other (hole size etc). I then discovered to horror that my bike's oil was under the line - I had to lean the bike 65 degrees to the right to get oil to appear in the window. I changed the oil last summer, and had been riding it around frequently since, outside of winter, often hard but always between 4-6k RPM (no high rpm riding). It took about 1/2 - 3/4 of a quart to get the oil back into the window at a stand. So it appears the engine eats oil, now (it didn't do that before, in the past couple years). After I filled up the oil, I put in some seafoam as well and rode the bike around. It starts up fine, needing minimal choke, as usual, but the flat spot is there. The engine seems like it is struggles. Is my engine hosed, from the low oil? Do I need a carb cleaning? Is this an air-fuel issue?
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Jun 6, 2014 23:34
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Have you refilled the gas with fresh stuff yet?
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Jun 7, 2014 00:31
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Yeap, a full tank with that Seafoam. Still flatspots. I haven't ridden it much since, admittedly.
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Jun 7, 2014 15:24
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I installed my Galfer SS front brake lines today and did my best to bleed the system. I wish the BMC had a bleeder valve, but I think I did good enough. The lever feels much firmer than with the rubber lines. Hopefully, I will have some time to take it for a ride tomorrow.
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Jun 8, 2014 06:46
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MetaJew posted:I installed my Galfer SS front brake lines today and did my best to bleed the system. I wish the BMC had a bleeder valve, but I think I did good enough. The lever feels much firmer than with the rubber lines. Hopefully, I will have some time to take it for a ride tomorrow. Well I took it for a ride and the brakes are still spongy. I bled the front brakes with a mityvac and went back and forth several times. Should I try bleeding some fluid by cracking open the banjo bolt at the MC? I'm not sure how to firm them up.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:49
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Yep, go that route definitely. That's typically the last thing to check off the list for a brake bleeding.
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Jun 9, 2014 04:07
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