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Uthor posted:Doing maintenance. I was going to order a bunch of parts/tools. I always bought from ECS Tuning. Any other store I should look at? I also have some (more) questions: Not sure if this is  , but oil filter? I always bought OEM. I see Xengst and Mann both being cheaper. Is OEM worth the ~30% price premium?Transmission oil. ECS has OEM, Red Line, Motul, Royal Purple, and Liqui Moly. I figure OEM here? Spark plugs. Same thing, have OEM, Bosch, and NGK available. I have no idea what I'm doing here. Also, is an ignition coil pack puller recommended?
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May 30, 2014 03:10
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I've always just used my hands to pull coil packs out and haven't had a problem
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May 30, 2014 03:12
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Uthor posted:I was going to order a bunch of parts/tools. I always bought from ECS Tuning. Any other store I should look at? Isn't Mann the manufacturer of the OEM filter? I'd run a Mann filter. I think the OEM plugs are Bosch. I'm currently running the NGKs and they've worked just fine. Keep in mind VW doesn't manufacture any of these parts themselves. They buy from a few OEMs and package the parts differently. ECS is pretty good at figuring out what the parts actually are and selling them as a cheaper alternative to OEM even though they're the exact same thing.
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May 30, 2014 15:19
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smax posted:Isn't Mann the manufacturer of the OEM filter? I'd run a Mann filter. Mann is the manufacturer of the OEM filter.
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May 31, 2014 00:54
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Prefect Six posted:Mann is the manufacturer of the OEM filter. Seems like! (This is a picture of the OEM filter on ECS Tuning's site.) 
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May 31, 2014 01:46
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After realizing that the E38 is too much of a disaster to own maintenance-wise, I started thinking about getting a late build first gen S8, preferably a 2002 with the updated braking electronics. Does anyone have any experience with those? Is the 4.2 in that the same ridiculous nightmare of timing chains and guides that like to fail with little or no warning?
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Jun 5, 2014 16:14
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Das Volk posted:After realizing that the E38 is too much of a disaster to own maintenance-wise, I started thinking about getting a late build first gen S8, preferably a 2002 with the updated braking electronics. Does anyone have any experience with those? Is the 4.2 in that the same ridiculous nightmare of timing chains and guides that like to fail with little or no warning? Are you going to be doing your own work? 'Cause if you were I'd be picking the one that's easier to work on. Based on my experience with lesser BMWs and Volkswagens, I'd wager that the S8 is about a billion times more of a pain in the rear end than a BMW.
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Jun 5, 2014 23:20
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Das Volk posted:After realizing that the E38 is too much of a disaster to own maintenance-wise, I started thinking about getting a late build first gen S8, preferably a 2002 with the updated braking electronics. Does anyone have any experience with those? Is the 4.2 in that the same ridiculous nightmare of timing chains and guides that like to fail with little or no warning? You're probably better off going to a little bit newer year. That said, I would not go any newer than 2006 unless you want a timing chain. The D2 A8/S8 timing belt is about a 6 hour job, the D3 is about 8 hours. The D2 5 speed automatics don't last much beyond 12 year/150,000 miles. The D3 6 speed auto generally much longer. D3 platform also has a dynamic air suspension which can be expensive to fix. Regardless the D3 platform is nicer and doesn't show its age like the D2 (especially the interior). I forgot to add that the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and all of the extra parts generally cost about $1500 to $2000 and it needs to be done about every 10 years or 100,000 miles. That price is just parts, assuming you'll do the work. No. 6 fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 23:27
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I was trying to do the math in my head the other day in regards to clutches. I've been a manual purist forever and will continue to be when I pick up the new R when it comes out, but for some reason I was trying to figure out how much I save in the long run by not getting the DSG. Adding the dsg is 1100 if I recall correctly and roughly 250-400 every 40000 miles depending on if you do the service yourself or not. So getting a manual you are saving the 1100 right up front and at least a couple extra hundred every 40k. What is the average amount of miles you can put on a clutch before smoking it, especially if chipped. I'm assuming 80-100k? Now my question is, how much does replacing the clutch on a new VW cost?
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Jun 6, 2014 22:01
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ECS has the stock Mk6 clutch for $550, then I imagine you're looking at $200-$300+ for labor, depending on where you go. I don't know how long it would last you, I've seen stock clutches even on mild tunes not slip post 100k, but others slipping early on. It wouldn't be the end of the world though unless it got really bad or bothered you enough.
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Jun 7, 2014 00:34
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8ender posted:
I'm going to be attacking the spark plugs and air filter tomorrow. Seems like a good time to do this. Can you explain more about this part? What does the cam follower follow the cam for? What does a "bad" one look like?
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Jun 7, 2014 00:50
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Uthor posted:I'm going to be attacking the spark plugs and air filter tomorrow. Seems like a good time to do this. I'll illustrate with pictures of my horrible experience: This is the fuel pump. It sits on one end of the engine and has this long plunger. The cam pushes this plunger up and down and then magic and high pressure fuel comes out. The fuel is actually low pressure up until it hits this guy. This is different than most cars that have the pump in the tank. My fuel pump was hosed and the plunger should have been about 3cm longer.  The camshaft has an extension cam that the fuel pump sits on. Mine is scored all to gently caress because the plunger pictured above was riding on it.  This stupid little thing is the cam follower. Its essentially a metal bucket coated in teflon that the fuel pump plunger sits inside. The bucket rides on top of the cam. This one has failed catastrophically.  When your car looks like mine does then its time to beg Audi/VW for warranty coverage or spend $$$$. In my case Audi covered everything including a loaner for a week. New camshaft, new high pressure fuel pump, cam follower, oil pan dropped and cleaned, oil pickup cleaned, sealants, belts, the list goes on. However, at this point I have 20k kms left on the extended warranty on this part, so the key thing going forward is to NEVER LET IT FAIL EVER AGAIN. I'm checking it at every oil change and trying not to think about what all that metal might have done to important engine parts.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:55
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More importantly it takes all of 15 minutes to do once you get the procedure down, so it doesn't add much time to an oil change anyways so you have no excuse for not doing it. I have a spare follower ready to go to slap in the moment I see any sort of wear on the wife's 2.0t passat.
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Jun 7, 2014 02:49
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devmd01 posted:I have a spare follower ready to go to slap in the moment I see any sort of wear on the wife's 2.0t passat. My next question was to ask what the solution is, so... Thanks for the info, people! I'll see what is in there this weekend.
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Jun 7, 2014 03:17
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Also be careful reinstalling the fuel pump and don't sever the o-ring; that's an annoying $5 to spend if you do!
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Jun 7, 2014 03:41
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Just to be sure (the cam follower chat is scaring me): Do TSI engines have cam follower issues as well? I'm coming up on 40,000 miles and am starting to gather parts for the 40,000 mile maintenance.
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Jun 7, 2014 04:04
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Ugh, seems like poo poo is piling up with my car. Just noticed this happening with my hatch strut (pretty rusty and definitely bulging). How big of a PITA is this going to be to replace?   EDIT: This is for the pop kit, but seems pretty simple either way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RgZTIMsJLc But, $60 for OEM struts?! Uthor fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jun 7, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 05:17
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smax posted:Just to be sure (the cam follower chat is scaring me): Do TSI engines have cam follower issues as well? I'm coming up on 40,000 miles and am starting to gather parts for the 40,000 mile maintenance. I forgot to post this super awesome PDF explaining the differences between the FSI and TSI as well as how to identify if you have a flat cam follower: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/FSIvTSI.pdf
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Jun 7, 2014 05:21
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8ender posted:I forgot to post this super awesome PDF explaining the differences between the FSI and TSI as well as how to identify if you have a flat cam follower: Thanks for that, I will check mine out (05 FSI GTI). Would this be something a VAG specialist mechanic would check? I had my timing belt/water pump etc done at 130k not too long ago and basically said fix anything else you find and this didn't come up. These instructions seem good/helpful: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/FSI_Cam_Follower_Install.pdf from: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/Volsk...2010_2011_2012/ BurgerQuest fucked around with this message at 11:46 on Jun 7, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 11:42
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Uthor posted:Ugh, seems like poo poo is piling up with my car. Just noticed this happening with my hatch strut (pretty rusty and definitely bulging). How big of a PITA is this going to be to replace? It's super easy to replace them just have something to prop the hatch open while you do it that suckers heavy. Rockauto has the struts for about half that price.
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Jun 7, 2014 16:38
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8ender posted:I forgot to post this super awesome PDF explaining the differences between the FSI and TSI as well as how to identify if you have a flat cam follower: Right click, save-as, thanks!
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Jun 7, 2014 19:17
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BurgerQuest posted:Thanks for that, I will check mine out (05 FSI GTI). Would this be something a VAG specialist mechanic would check? I had my timing belt/water pump etc done at 130k not too long ago and basically said fix anything else you find and this didn't come up. I just did this and that was a good PDF, but I also cross referenced this thread: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102858 They're similar except that the guy on GolfMKV uses the test port to drain some of the gas out of the system in a controlled manner and gives a procedure on priming the pump before you restart your car (not sure if this is something you need to do or voodoo, but my car started right up after doing it). I think mine's okay for now. 
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Jun 8, 2014 00:00
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Oh, me again. Sorry. Last post for a while (I hope!). I asked about getting a coil pack extractorat the top of this page. I saw a random post on the Internet when looking up spark plug DIYs where the person made two loops out of zip ties, slipped them around the coil pack, and pulled. I tried that and it worked brilliantly until the last one when I kept breaking the zip ties. It lets you put pretty even pressure right at the centerline of the coil pack and it's super easy to pull straight up instead of prying to one side of the other. Going to have to remember that for next time!
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Jun 8, 2014 03:45
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I heard something about Audi extending engine warranties to 75K miles on certain model years (something like 08-12). Anyone know anything about that?
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Jun 8, 2014 21:38
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I hope it's not too frowned upon to ask a general "what about this weird little car" question. Later this week I'll be looking at a 2005 Audi A2 1.2 TDI. Opinions about this car on the Internet are pretty polarised, to say the least. Some say it's a poo poo tin can that flips on a mild curve, drives like a sloth, and sacrifices safety for nonexistent fuel savings (e.g. undersized tyres). Some say it's a resilient, dependable car that got screwed over by a high retail price and poor marketing. (Here's a typical A2 thread.) Does any goon have some experience with it? I would use it for a daily ~50m commute through narrow but relatively trafficked roads. The one thing that everybody seems to agree upon is that the aluminium chassis makes it expensive as gently caress to fix any bump. Since this is mostly a maintenance/repair thread, does anyone know how expensive we're talking about? And of course, what sorts of components should I give an extra careful look to (or, rather, get the mechanic to)?
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Jun 9, 2014 16:01
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actionjackson posted:I heard something about Audi extending engine warranties to 75K miles on certain model years (something like 08-12). Anyone know anything about that? Yeah I got something in the mail about it Saturday or yesterday ('11 A4). Don't have it in front of me but I vaguely recall it might have been something to do with the turbo? I'll see if I can find the doc and share it when I get home. edit: here ya go - to summarize: Audi of America posted:Warranty Extension of Turbocharger   
sticksy fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 20:45
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Thanks, I just got the letter a couple days ago. In other news, sad picture: http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1092678_duval-unhurt-after-crashing-audi-r18-e-tron-quattro-at-167-mph-in-le-mans-practice
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Jun 12, 2014 16:01
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NihilCredo posted:I hope it's not too frowned upon to ask a general "what about this weird little car" question. The ASF is the frame of the vehicle and would only be costly in a fairly eventful wreck beyond your standard fender-bender. Given the cost of the car, any damage to the frame would almost certainly total it out. Other than that, I don't know much about this oddball although I do think they're kinda neat. Question for you, why not get a diesel Golf? They're pretty reliable and can easily obtain the same fuel economy. I was averaging about 50mpg in my MkVI Golf.
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Jun 12, 2014 16:28
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No. 6 posted:The ASF is the frame of the vehicle and would only be costly in a fairly eventful wreck beyond your standard fender-bender. Given the cost of the car, any damage to the frame would almost certainly total it out. Other than that, I don't know much about this oddball although I do think they're kinda neat. Like you said, it was kinda neat and interesting, and it also came at a lower price than what I could find for same-age same-mileage Golfs and the like. Long-term resiliency wasn't a problem either - I expect I'll want a new car within 3-4 years tops - as long as it wasn't a total nightmare. Sadly, I've since contacted the dealer and discovered the real reason for the price: apparently that "3L" version of the A2 doesn't even have air conditioning. Oh well. Maybe some Norwegian will love it...
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Jun 12, 2014 23:20
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Is the Shell V-power premium worth paying extra for? It's about 50c/gallon more here compared to regular premium. They gave me a spiel about it cleaning my tank and giving better mileage.
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Jun 13, 2014 06:41
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Ugh, likely time to replace the alternator or voltage regulator in my mkiv jetta. Replaced the battery back in January and haven't had problems since, but the charging system issue indicator came on yesterday. Time to dig out the multimeter and test voltages!
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Jun 13, 2014 17:12
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actionjackson posted:Is the Shell V-power premium worth paying extra for? It's about 50c/gallon more here compared to regular premium. They gave me a spiel about it cleaning my tank and giving better mileage. Run a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus every once in a while if you want to scratch that cleaning itch. It's a proven cleaner, you can dig up tons of info on it on Bob is the Oil Guy
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Jun 13, 2014 17:44
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AF posted:Run a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus every once in a while if you want to scratch that cleaning itch. It's a proven cleaner, you can dig up tons of info on it on Bob is the Oil Guy Cool, thanks. Should I get a fuel injector cleaner as well, or how about Seafoam? Also should I use a full 20 oz. bottle, even if my tank is less than 20 gallons? I think the A4 is 16.9 total. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Jun 13, 2014 |
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Jun 13, 2014 17:54
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Ugh. After finally getting the '97 C4 A6 (2.6 ABC) a head gasket replacement and thinking it would pass the periodical with ease, I need new shocks, bushings and other crap for the rear. Luckily that's cheap and easy. Worse is having to replace the windshield, that's a quick $1000. I'm more worried about a leak. It drips from somewhere around the (new) oil filter. But only when it's running. And when I was driving it to the garage, around six miles into the ride the oil temp light started flashing. The gauge was around 120 degrees C. And it stopped blinking for a few seconds, then came back on again. Could be the coolant pump? Or just air in the system? The coolant is (mostly) water just for a quick run or two. Perhaps flushing the system and topping up with proper coolant helps? There was indications of something having spurted from the driver's side, around the oil filter or fuel splitter or whatchamacallit. Anyone come across this before? I'm not much a mechanic, and my friend that's fixing it is so busy I'm thinking of outsourcing to a local shop and say "fix it". It's soon becoming a fix or run away decision, but I've sorta kinda bought it - my friend's just fronting the repairs until I get the finances... F4rt5 fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 13, 2014 |
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Jun 13, 2014 18:36
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I just purchased a 5 speed 2014 Jetta SE and was wondering if anyone has tried APR's tune for the 1.8 TSI. I looked online and haven't really seen any reviews so any insight would be welcome. I'll probably wait to see what Unitronic puts out, but I'd like to hear from someone who actually tried to the tune.
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Jun 13, 2014 23:57
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bruvs be4 luvs
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Yuuup, after testing the voltage differential between battery and ground on the alternator, dips to well below 12v with electrical load and the engine ran up to 3000rpm. Gonna take it to autozone in the am, anything else I should look at?
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Jun 14, 2014 00:13
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actionjackson posted:Cool, thanks. Should I get a fuel injector cleaner as well, or how about Seafoam? I'm unsure about Seafoam, haven't use it myself. From what I've gathered, it's pretty popular so there's lots is info about it out there. I've used a whole bottle for 18 gallons in the past. There's a measurement window on the side of the bottle so you can see how much you're doling out. Make sure it's Concentrate Plus. Chevron sells a few other cleaners that have a similar bottle but are not as potent AF fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Jun 14, 2014 |
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Jun 14, 2014 03:23
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devmd01 posted:Yuuup, after testing the voltage differential between battery and ground on the alternator, dips to well below 12v with electrical load and the engine ran up to 3000rpm. Gonna take it to autozone in the am, anything else I should look at? Is the belt reasonably tight and in good condition?
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Jun 14, 2014 21:21
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Yep, tensioner is solid. Ended up getting a new alternator altogether, I wasn't gonna pay dealership price for a voltage regulator or wait 3 days for one to get here from ecstuning. Might as well do the alternator, a reman was only $170.
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Jun 14, 2014 22:04
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Went in for an oil change on my '08 a4 avant. Left after getting both motor mounts replaced. Ouch.
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Jun 15, 2014 00:51
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