|
astrollinthepork posted:I just dealt with this when I moved to bars that had an inner diameter of 14mm which is quite a bit smaller than usual. You can do what I did, which was go to fastenal and buy 4" long 1/4-20 socket screws, nuts, and 12mm thick fuel line. Thread the screw through the bar end, slide the fuel line over the screw, attach the nut to the end of the screw, and then insert it into the bar. Spinning the screw drives the nut against the fuel line, contracting it along the screw and expanding the diameter. This holds very solidly and cost me around $6 in material. I get the gist of this, but do you happen to have any pics? How does it hold everything on? Did you out the original weights back on the end of the screw?
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 06:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 04:33 |
|
Bottom Liner posted:I get the gist of this, but do you happen to have any pics? How does it hold everything on? Did you out the original weights back on the end of the screw? No pics of my own, but these things are the same idea:  When you insert them into the bar and turn the screw it tightens the nut down against the rubber. The rubber expands inside the bar to hold it in place with friction. Sounds like it wouldn't hold so well, but it really does. I used aftermarket bar ends that didn't come with hardware as it assumed I had the OEM hardware so I had to buy the screws, nuts, and rubber line myself. There are ready made products available for this like so http://www.twistedthrottle.com/barkbusters-bar-end-mounting-kit-14mm-with-alloy-insert But you can likely find something like that cheaper at a fastenal. Be sure to measure the inner diameter of your bars. I'm guessing it's 14mm but it may be smaller. This will determine the size of nut that can fit inside. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jun 7, 2014 |
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 06:12
|
|
|
*doublepost*
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 06:16
|
|
|
Yeah, I understand how they attach, but wouldn't that mean you can't put the vibration dampening weights on? My stock bars have huge 1 inch metal pieces on the end of the screws that weigh a hefty amount. They slide in on the end of the old bars and fit around the outer edge which holds everything on once screwing the bolt, but they don't fit in the new bars.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 06:37
|
|
Bottom Liner posted:Yeah, I understand how they attach, but wouldn't that mean you can't put the vibration dampening weights on? My stock bars have huge 1 inch metal pieces on the end of the screws that weigh a hefty amount. They slide in on the end of the old bars and fit around the outer edge which holds everything on once screwing the bolt, but they don't fit in the new bars. Well by bar ends I mean those weights. Just replace the word bar end with weight. They will still hold. I think I see the confusion here. Your weights have a portion of them that go inside the bar, like I've circled in red:  You can either get some new weights, or deal with that portion sticking outside of the bar and looking like rear end. I would look for weights that are flat on that side. Or just return the bars and find something with a larger inner diameter if you really want to use you OEM weights. A question of my own: What kind of brake pads do I want for street use? EBC Double H? astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Jun 7, 2014 |
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 06:52
|
|
|
astrollinthepork posted:A question of my own: What kind of brake pads do I want for street use? EBC Double H? It's a matter of personal taste and style. HH do give ferocious bite in the dry but seem to take a while to clear water off the discs so they feel really wooly in the wet. I personally prefer this because it helps protect from OH poo poo moments, but others feel it's the exact opposite, because they're used to a harsh bite and when they don't get it they grab a bigger handful and then lock up when it cleans the disc. Also sintered pads - and EBC in particular - do like to glaze if you don't use them hard all the time, so you may have to adjust your riding style. Lots of people prefer organic pads because they're much more consistent and easier to get along with, and ultimately both will be capable of locking your wheels albeit with different amounts of force. Find out what you've got on there at the moment and think if you particularly want to chaneg any aspect of them and work from there.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 12:18
|
|
|
hot sauce posted:Has anyone used Seal Mate on their fork seals? My left one has had a slow leak for a while now and I was thinking of giving that a shot before completely replacing it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 13:15
|
|
|
Just replace your Fork Seals, it's not a hard job, you could do it in a few hours even having never done it before.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 13:30
|
|
|
Shimrod posted:Just replace your Fork Seals, it's not a hard job, you could do it in a few hours even having never done it before. Unless you own an old bike that has seen rain. Then the guy you've brought the forks to will hate you forever.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 14:24
|
|
|
Shimrod posted:Just replace your Fork Seals, it's not a hard job, you could do it in a few hours even having never done it before. This is not the correct advice, often times a perfect good seal has a perfectly good chunk of dirt stuck in it. Seal mates/35mm film/plastic playing cards/etc are all good solutions in that case. Source: Used to ride DOONZ often and if I replaced the seals everytime I saw one get a little leaky I'd have replaced a lot of seals.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 16:32
|
|
|
I noticed a bit of metal embedded smack dab in the center of my rear tire. Right now it doesn't leak. Should I A. let it be, B. pull it out and if it still doesn't leak, keep riding, or C. replace the tire anyway. Tire is only like 3 months old, unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 17:04
|
|
|
High Protein posted:I noticed a bit of metal embedded smack dab in the center of my rear tire. Right now it doesn't leak. Should I A. let it be, B. pull it out and if it still doesn't leak, keep riding, or C. replace the tire anyway. Tire is only like 3 months old, unfortunately. Pull it out. If it's keeping air in the tyre and it comes out at speed it'll get ugly really loving quickly. If it's not keeping air in the tyre and the hole is small then just patch it with some rubber adhesive and get on with your life. If it's big get it patched professionally.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 17:39
|
|
|
Dumb question time: What does metal shavings in your gas tank mean? I saw a couple inside while I was filling up today and was kinda freaked out. I didn't do anything super terrible (I think) besides stall a couple times at an intersection. The bike is brand new if that makes any difference.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 18:41
|
|
|
When you stall at an intersection, the brief compression wave that comes out the intake ports can occasionally shred little pieces of metal off the inside of the intake tract, and if it's really bad they'll actually be forced backward through the carburetors or injection system and end up in your gas tank. It's probably fine as long as they're silver, because that means it's just flashing from the aluminum castings. If they're gold or brown in color, they're probably brass pieces from the carburetors themselves, and that's a big problem.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 18:54
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:When you stall at an intersection, the brief compression wave that comes out the intake ports can occasionally shred little pieces of metal off the inside of the intake tract, and if it's really bad they'll actually be forced backward through the carburetors or injection system and end up in your gas tank. It's probably fine as long as they're silver, because that means it's just flashing from the aluminum castings. If they're gold or brown in color, they're probably brass pieces from the carburetors themselves, and that's a big problem. Ok, they were a dark grey/silver color so I guess I dodged a bullet there. I'll take better care to remember to go ALL the way down to one next time I stop at an intersection 
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 18:56
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:When you stall at an intersection, the brief compression wave that comes out the intake ports can occasionally shred little pieces of metal off the inside of the intake tract, and if it's really bad they'll actually be forced backward through the carburetors or injection system and end up in your gas tank. It's probably fine as long as they're silver, because that means it's just flashing from the aluminum castings. If they're gold or brown in color, they're probably brass pieces from the carburetors themselves, and that's a big problem.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 19:49
|
|
|
No, I made it up entirely to make fun of Razzled for thinking that stalling his bike at an intersection could cause metal flakes to appear in his gas tank, but I guess I wasn't ridiculous enough. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 19:56
|
|
|
Nah I thought it was funny, Rev is broken. How the hell would they go up the fuel lines?
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 19:58
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:No, I made it up entirely to make fun of Razzled for thinking that stalling his bike at an intersection could cause metal flakes to appear in his gas tank, but I guess I wasn't ridiculous enough. God damnit. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
Shimrod posted:Just replace your Fork Seals, it's not a hard job, you could do it in a few hours even having never done it before. Unless you have multi-adjustable USD forks in which case it's torture and not worth struggling through yourself. Sagebrush posted:When you stall at an intersection, the brief compression wave that comes out the intake ports can occasionally shred little pieces of metal off the inside of the intake tract, and if it's really bad they'll actually be forced backward through the carburetors or injection system and end up in your gas tank. It's probably fine as long as they're silver, because that means it's just flashing from the aluminum castings. If they're gold or brown in color, they're probably brass pieces from the carburetors themselves, and that's a big problem. Razzled posted:Ok, they were a dark grey/silver color so I guess I dodged a bullet there. I'll take better care to remember to go ALL the way down to one next time I stop at an intersection Holy poo poo 
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 01:27
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:
Haha holy poo poo I'm dumb
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 01:32
|
|
|
Razzled posted:Wait it gets even better. I got a telescoping magnet rod and my led flashlight and went to have a look inside the tank more thoroughly.... There are no shavings in there. I was staring at the part of the tank that bends around the frame which had line scratches from contact with the steel fuel nozzle and is submerged by maybe an inch of gas. I was wondering how the hell you even found metal shavings in your gas to begin with. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 02:29
|
|
|
Razzled is better entertainment value than even Sir Mootington.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 02:39
|
|
|
Shimrod posted:Razzled is better entertainment value than even Sir Mootington. He's a good sport about it which makes it a lot more fun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
Shimrod posted:Razzled is better entertainment value than even Sir Mootington. I guess I should put some spikes on my drz
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
2007 Weestrom. Old battery was fried, bike wouldn't start, put the battery on a charger, it didn't hold a charge. Junked it. New battery: Bought it from a dealer, new. Put a charger on it overnight. Ran beautifully. Haven't had much time to ride, the last time I was out was last week. Tried to take my fiancee for a ride tonight, the fuel pump cycle sounded funny (like it does when low charge) but the bike started ok. Got four minutes up the road and stopped to fill the tank. Bike wouldn't start. I got it bump-started and we rode home, I've pulled the battery. Other information: I revved the poo poo out of it on the way home and when we got back, the starter would at least turn a little, unlike after my several failed attempts in the gas station parking lot. There is a cigarette lighter socket directly wired to my battery posts with ring terminals, could there be corrosion in there shorting and draining the battery? What should my next step be? I'm leaving for work tomorrow and won't be home until Wednesday next.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 03:55
|
|
|
Sounds like a hosed R/R if it's draining after you rode it badly enough to not crank over. Get a cheap multimeter and measure charging voltage I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 04:31
|
|
|
How far did you ride it? Running total-loss you should still be able to get a couple of hours riding, if it was less than that then maybe a short or something somewhere draining way more power than it should be. While you've got the multimeter out, compare the voltages: - at halfway up the rev range - idling - while starting - with ignition on, engine not running - with ignition off - across the battery terminals with the earth terminal off - across the terminals with both terminals off - across the terminals after charging for 24 hours - across the terminals 24 hours after that (it's unlikely but not impossible you just bought a bad new battery, so it's worth checking for that before ripping into your electrical system)
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 10:10
|
|
|
Not even sure if this is a problem or not, but thought I'd run it past the hivemind to see what you all think. My front brakes were making a fairly loud clicking sound, once per rotation, if I had very light pressure on the lever (like just enough to be aware of braking even happening). Couldn't replicate it with the bike on the stand because obviously the brake just stopped the wheel turning, so to be on the safe side I gave the discs and buttons a drat good cleaning (in particular freeing up the buttons which were getting a bit sticky). This seems to have cured the problem. However, coming back from my ride today, I thought I'd put some heat cycles through the brakes just to be on the safe side (I'm paranoid about glazing them, and the ride had been pretty gentle) and I noticed under very heavy braking there's a new, much quieter noise - something like a ratchet but softer, and happening at a higher frequency than the old clicking (maybe 4 or 5 times a rotation). There's also a noticeable vibration through the bars as I load up the front (it disappears once the brakes are on full/the suspension is properly compressed, and doesn't appear under light-medium braking). Anything to be worried about? I *think* the vibration was there before and I'm willing to blame it on my aging suspension (which is probably getting replaced soon) and I'm thinking the noise was always there and I just didn't notice it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 17:35
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:How far did you ride it? Running total-loss you should still be able to get a couple of hours riding, if it was less than that then maybe a short or something somewhere draining way more power than it should be. Isn't the v-strom efi? In that case he wouldn't get very far at all running total loss.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 21:04
|
|
|
It's almost time for the first oil change on my brand new 2014 FZ1. Is there any reason to have the dealership do the first oil change or should I just do it myself? (I've always done my own oil changes)
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 01:05
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:It's almost time for the first oil change on my brand new 2014 FZ1. Is there any reason to have the dealership do the first oil change or should I just do it myself? (I've always done my own oil changes) Unless you got some kind of warranty that depends on it or have a really good relationship with your dealer I wouldn't.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 02:07
|
|
|
Phy posted:2007 Weestrom. Old battery was fried, bike wouldn't start, put the battery on a charger, it didn't hold a charge. Junked it. If it has the same design as my Suzuki's, the wiring from the R/R should tap in to the battery via the top of the starter solenoid (4 wires, 2 from the R/R, two are control power for the relay) I've had problems with water getting into here and corroding out the terminals, causing intermittent "ghost" electrical problems. So I'd look there, also for loose connections on the relay.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 02:37
|
|
|
Phy posted:2007 Weestrom. Old battery was fried, bike wouldn't start, put the battery on a charger, it didn't hold a charge. Junked it. Might be a good idea to check the starter switch and headlight relay, both of which are known problem points. Check this out for starter issues: http://blacklabadventures.com/2012/02/19/start-switch-maintenance/
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 02:54
|
|
Crayvex posted:It's almost time for the first oil change on my brand new 2014 FZ1. Is there any reason to have the dealership do the first oil change or should I just do it myself? (I've always done my own oil changes) I think you should take it to the dealer. I'd think that if you have any problems in the next couple thousand miles and you take it in they'll probably give you a huge lecture about how they can't POSSIBLY cover that bad battery because you neglected your first service.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:It's almost time for the first oil change on my brand new 2014 FZ1. Is there any reason to have the dealership do the first oil change or should I just do it myself? (I've always done my own oil changes) For my first service, they mentioned they're going to be doing stuff like valve checks and all that so I don't know if it's the same for an FZ1 but I'm sure there's other stuff besides oil that they'll look at for the first service.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 16:37
|
|
|
hot sauce posted:Has anyone used Seal Mate on their fork seals? My left one has had a slow leak for a while now and I was thinking of giving that a shot before completely replacing it. I make my own from plastic bubble packaging. Yes, they work. You probally have the materials on hand to do it. Z3n uses feeler guages to do it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 16:55
|
|
|
Razzled posted:For my first service, they mentioned they're going to be doing stuff like valve checks and all that so I don't know if it's the same for an FZ1 but I'm sure there's other stuff besides oil that they'll look at for the first service. That's what they told me in the stealership as well, but I doubt they do anything other than change the oil and check the chain tension. I'll let them do the first one...
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 17:06
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:That's what they told me in the stealership as well, but I doubt they do anything other than change the oil and check the chain tension. I'll let them do the first one... I figure even if they're kinda bullshitting it's worth having a rock solid guarantee (or the reasonable assumption of one) for the break-in period and then deciding later if it warrants a visit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 17:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 04:33 |
|
|
Is it safe to assume that if a chain has a missing o-ring and some that looked damaged it should probably be replaced? If so, is it easy to do myself? Looks like you just would need a chain breaker tool
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2014 23:51
|
|