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Blistex posted:First year of University I rented a basement apartment with water pressure that was abysmal at best. It was like someone was slowly pouring out a mug of hot water, but wanted to make it last a full 1/2 minute. The water pressure was so bad that water only came out of the bottom 1/3rd of the shower head. It took 15 seconds to get your hair wet enough to put shampoo in, and once you wanted to rinse it out, you knew what you were going to be doing for the next 5 minutes (not an exaggeration). Or he just didn't bathe.
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Jun 9, 2014 16:42
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't really understand the hate for low-pressure shower heads. A proper shower scours you clean with the sheer force of the water 
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Jun 9, 2014 16:53
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Blistex posted:Crazy thing was he lived upstairs, so he had to deal with the exact same problems and seemed to be more than happy to make do. People are willing to put up with an astonishing amount of crap if it means they can avoid doing things they think are stressful. This is the essence of procrastination.
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Jun 9, 2014 17:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:People are willing to put up with an astonishing amount of crap if it means they can avoid doing things they think are stressful. This is the essence of procrastination. I'm always astonished by this. I can understand the lovely lazy heartless landlord but when people are too lazy to fix poo poo in their own homes that directly effect them? Not because they don't have the money or time but jsut out of sheer procrastination. I had a friend who's parents water tank leaked so they had to get rid of it. They had someone in to get rid of it but didn't bother getting a new one because they had "a friend" that had a spare tank and would "come over and help". Months and months went by when this house had no hot water. I noticed they started smelling worse. This was in the summer, but finally when things started to cool off they finally got a new tank installed but only after their kids started to pressure them every day. I think if it wasn't for their kids they would have just bathed less and less, perpetually putting it off until their friend with the spare tank showed up. And no they never went after that friend or told them beyond the moment their tank leaked because "he's giving us a free tank and installing it so we don't want to pressure him".
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Jun 9, 2014 18:01
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MrYenko posted:Low flow toilets have come a long way, and they aren't absolutely default terrible anymore. That said, toilets have a primary function: flush my giant, log-like turds away and out of my life quickly, and without splashing poo poo-water out of the bowl. If I have to flush twice, the toilet has failed. If so much as a single drop of water reaches escape velocity at any point during the flush cycle, the toilet has failed. If some inane, arbitrary per-flush water restriction causes the toilet to clog, rather than dispose of my leavings, then that toilet has failed. 
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jun 9, 2014 |
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Jun 9, 2014 23:05
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Zhentar posted:A proper shower scours you clean with the sheer force of the water I have been saving this showerhead for when money is no object and I have a 100-gallon water heater.  Weighing in at a gooseneck-bending 3.5-pounds: The solid brass Speakman shower head. From the days before water saving! I set it up once; it emptied my 40-gal heater in about fifteen glorious minutes.  when America made Great Things. 
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Jun 10, 2014 02:12
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I like two things about my apartment building: no central air so I can't smell my lovely neighbors and the boiler. The building is 70 years old so the water's got almost enough iron to make it magnetic, but it's hot and I get as much as I want.
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Jun 10, 2014 02:29
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PainterofCrap posted:I have been saving this showerhead for when money is no object and I have a 100-gallon water heater. Pre barcode era. Glorious.
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Jun 10, 2014 02:51
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SocketSeven posted:Pre barcode era. Glorious. I swear to God I was living on a military facility that used these once. It was wonderful, I'd swear you could strip paint with the "needle" setting. I've been in $400/night hotels whose showers sucked in comparison.
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Jun 10, 2014 03:30
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SocketSeven posted:Pre barcode era. Glorious. The best shower I ever had was, ironically enough, in Yellowstone. Man, that high pressure needle showerhead was awesome after a day of hiking.
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Jun 10, 2014 03:57
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PainterofCrap posted:I have been saving this showerhead for when money is no object and I have a 100-gallon water heater. Just add more cheap tanks in series with the first one, until it lasts long enough. Or just slap a tankless on-demand heater in behind it. 
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Jun 10, 2014 05:55
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Splizwarf posted:Or just slap a tankless on-demand heater in behind it. With a drainline heat exchanger to preheat the water heading into the tankless water heater. 
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Jun 10, 2014 08:50
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kastein posted:Yup. We just bought one of these chains for our MS660 at work (although ours is specifically because we use that saw to cut down burning trees on the fire ground and burnt timber is absolutely BRUTAL on chainsaw chains. On Fire timber isnt much better- Your bar isnt meant to be glowing when you pull it out of a log!) http://www.stihl.com/the-Rapid-Duro-3-carbide-tipped-saw-chain.aspx They are pricey and you need to send em away to someone with a diamond wheel to sharpen them, but they dont give a poo poo about ANYTHING
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Jun 10, 2014 13:45
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kastein posted:Curious, how do you ground PVC? It doesn't conduct electricity. I know WHY you want to ground it (static buildup, because it doesn't conduct) but not how. Some sort of conductive spray? A bleeder wire along it that drains the static charge as it builds up? Both? I've never used PVC and i've never built or willingly installed flex hose into a shop. Good DC is so so important. I've seen copper along the outside tied into what I'm guessing are just screws sunk into the pipe. I hate "mobile" dust collection aka a bunch of poo poo in the way. I've never seen fires or explosions from DC but I think it's usually idiot knife makers collecting sparks/metal chips with their wood chips
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Jun 10, 2014 16:11
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Not an Anthem posted:I've never used PVC and i've never built or willingly installed flex hose into a shop. So what would you recommend to use for setting up dust collection ports? And how would it be grounded? Use metal conduit? That could get expensive fast at 7" diameter...
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Jun 10, 2014 16:29
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PainterofCrap posted:I have been saving this showerhead for when money is no object and I have a 100-gallon water heater. They still do! Speakman still makes shower heads, I have one. In fact, the S-2251 is still available.
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Jun 11, 2014 00:21
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I live in the middle of the desert, and feel a moral duty to conserve water. I can still agree that lots of water really fast feels good, man.
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Jun 11, 2014 01:02
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A grey water tank to run the toilet is a good way to reuse shower water, if you can rig it.
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Jun 11, 2014 01:08
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Javid posted:A grey water tank to run the toilet is a good way to reuse shower water, if you can rig it. Wouldn't your toilet get all... sudsy... when you flush?
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Jun 11, 2014 01:32
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Wouldn't your toilet get all... sudsy... when you flush? ...Scrubbing bubbles?
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Jun 11, 2014 01:47
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MisterOblivious posted:With a drainline heat exchanger to preheat the water heading into the tankless water heater. Seems like that thing would clog up in a heartbeat. Javid posted:A grey water tank to run the toilet is a good way to reuse shower water, if you can rig it. You'd need somewhere to store that water until you need it and a way to pump that water into the toilet tank. I'd guess that it would be more expensive to use recycled water than to use regular water.
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Jun 11, 2014 02:28
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SkunkDuster posted:Seems like that thing would clog up in a heartbeat. I think the spiral part is for the fresh water, the big pipe down the middle is the drain. Not as efficient as it could be, but you don't want to have to unclog a tight spiral constantly.
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Jun 11, 2014 02:33
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Ahh, right. That make a hell of a lot more sense.
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Jun 11, 2014 02:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So what would you recommend to use for setting up dust collection ports? And how would it be grounded? Use metal conduit? That could get expensive fast at 7" diameter... Even regular tin dryer duct/gas appliance flue would work well now that I think about it, as long as you sealed it well and had the splices all facing downhill so they don't get packed with dust. Not sure you could cast that into cement, however.
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Jun 11, 2014 03:49
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SkunkDuster posted:You'd need somewhere to store that water until you need it and a way to pump that water into the toilet tank. I'd guess that it would be more expensive to use recycled water than to use regular water. Expensive, yeah. From a standpoint of minimizing water consumption it's a net gain, though.
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Jun 11, 2014 14:32
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kastein posted:Even regular tin dryer duct/gas appliance flue would work well now that I think about it, as long as you sealed it well and had the splices all facing downhill so they don't get packed with dust. Not sure you could cast that into cement, however. What would you think of PVC with a (reasonably thick) copper wire running down the inside? Strip off the shielding from the wire at regular intervals, then at the end of the pipe tie it to one of the anchor bolts (and put a label on it so whoever inherits the place from me knows what it's doing).
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Jun 11, 2014 14:54
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I'm sure you can find some sort of static dissipating tubing that is suitable for under slab. A quick search revealed this flex hose that would be great for above ground: http://www.cat-vacuum-collectors.com/vacuum-hose-and-tools/spec1100.html e: Here is some inspiration: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?72140-Under-concrete-floor-dust-collection-system-%28pics%29 The tubing you're looking for is called PVS (Polyvinyl Steel) or PCD (Polyvinyl Coated Ductwork). CopperHound fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 11, 2014 18:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Strip off the shielding from the wire at regular intervals I don't know about the rest of it, but, uh, wouldn't it just be easier/better to use unshielded wire? Like, you know, grounding wire, since you're trying to ground and all? 
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Jun 11, 2014 18:10
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Bad Munki posted:I don't know about the rest of it, but, uh, wouldn't it just be easier/better to use unshielded wire? Like, you know, grounding wire, since you're trying to ground and all? I guess I was just thinking of how to transition from inside the pipe (where you don't want shielding) to outside (where it has to go from the pipe to the anchor bolt). But you could just use conduit there, or tie the unshielded wire to a shielded one, or just use that static-dissipating tubing that CopperHound linked, so  One good reason for this thread and others like it is the tendency people have to overlook obvious, simple solutions. Thanks guys! (Current status on the workshop project: I need to get some input from an engineer to show that my planned roof won't fall down, then the plans can go back to the city for hopefully-final inspection)
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Jun 11, 2014 18:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:workshop project I hope your workshop doesn't end up in this thread. Some of the dust collection system dealers look like they will design the system if you buy from them.
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Jun 11, 2014 18:45
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I hope it doesn't too! I'm doing my best to read up on design and techniques, but this is the first time I've tried to tackle a project even remotely this size, and I'll be doing most of the work on my own*. Part of the reason I'm going through the permitting process is simply to get extra, more experienced eyeballs looking at what I'm doing. For the DC, I'm starting to wonder if maybe I shouldn't just skip embedding it in concrete after all. It adds significant complexity to the foundation pour, the static-dissipating tubing would probably need to be enclosed in something more rigid, and of course it indelibly marks this structure as being a carpentry workshop. That's not a bad thing, but it does make it a bit harder to repurpose down the road when I sell the house. An alternative would be to mount some flexible tubing on a boom arm that swings out over the mid-floor tool stations. They're only 4-6 feet from one of the walls, after all. I'd probably still want to run power to the middle of the floor, but having a few power outlets, even 220V ones, in the middle of the floor is not as difficult/special-purpose as having DC ducting. * Still trying to figure out the best way to raise walls. Wall jacks would be ideal, but they need a stop to be secured to so the base of the jack doesn't slide around, and I'll be working directly on concrete (everything I've read assumes a wooden underfloor that you can nail your stop to). I might be able to run some boards out to the opposite wall and rely on the anchor bolts as a secure basis for making a stop of some kind...
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Jun 11, 2014 19:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What would you think of PVC with a (reasonably thick) copper wire running down the inside? Strip off the shielding from the wire at regular intervals, then at the end of the pipe tie it to one of the anchor bolts (and put a label on it so whoever inherits the place from me knows what it's doing). I'm still dubious about the effectiveness of this. PVC is a really good insulator, so charge should stay fairly localized on the surface of the pipe. There will be some leakage current, but IDK how effective it would be... I just skimmed this now, and it doesn't long wrong at first glance, so take a look if you want a more technical discussion: https://home.comcast.net/~rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html
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Jun 11, 2014 19:55
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Just dust-collect a bunch of powdered aluminum and high-solvent adhesive to coat the inside of the pipes. don't do this
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Jun 11, 2014 20:49
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31 floor apartment building built in eight months, in Chile? At least the roof was strong enough to stop the elevator. Makes you wonder what else is wrong with that building.
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Jun 11, 2014 21:30
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MH Knights posted:31 floor apartment building built in eight months, in Chile? At least the roof was strong enough to stop the elevator. Makes you wonder what else is wrong with that building. That moment you go from thinking "huh, this elevator is acting odd" to "this elevator is completely out of control" must be helpless and terrifying.
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Jun 11, 2014 21:55
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MH Knights posted:31 floor apartment building built in eight months, in Chile? At least the roof was strong enough to stop the elevator. Makes you wonder what else is wrong with that building. This is amazing. He's really booking it by the time it hits the roof.
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Jun 11, 2014 22:04
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Well, I just hit the motherlode of terrifying construction. Here's a list of only ONE of this guy's property's issues. - exposed electrical leads - switches that trip the breaker panel - pipes to nowhere - hot electrical switch boxes (found this out the hard way) - warped floors - Basement made for midgets - Walls aren't plumb or square - mystery water leaks - lovely insulation and wood panelling - paint job from hell - rear end backwards interior layouts - caulk on loving everything - appliances from the last century - recently removed brown recluse nest Now let me give you an example of why this came to be. Jim (the property owner) is a cheap rear end motherfucker who thinks that putting USED particle board cabinets and a dishwasher from 1990 in his brand new $200,000 house is a good idea, and then he installs granite countertops. What the gently caress. He puts windows at car height next to a parking lot and doesn't put in any bushes or fencing. To top it all off, he is a Mormon missionary on the side and brings back African workers who can't speak English, quit within weeks and install the windows backwards. I will post some pictures later. Oh, and the worst part? He's my new boss.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:17
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Eeep. That certainly makes me feel better about mine... I finally found one truly wrong thing in my house, though it's trivial compared to everything else in this thread. My septic pump is, according to the panel labels, on one single pole breaker. My septic pump is 230v. So the guy working on it found out the hard way that still leaves one phase hot... On the bright side, the original installer that would have been responsible for that didn't return my phone calls, so I didn't have to pay him for a service call to learn never to hire him.
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Jun 12, 2014 01:09
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MH Knights posted:31 floor apartment building built in eight months, in Chile? At least the roof was strong enough to stop the elevator. Makes you wonder what else is wrong with that building. Never hire Oompa Loompa contractors, man. 
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Jun 12, 2014 01:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So what would you recommend to use for setting up dust collection ports? And how would it be grounded? Use metal conduit? That could get expensive fast at 7" diameter... Metal is always what is recommended. You can save money by buying used runs off craigslist or offering to gut unused runs but yes it's expensive like everything else. Totally worth it I recommend not sinking the run. You probably don't have the room to make a sub floor which would be best so you can run electrical as well as DC under it and get under there to change it which you will. Make rigid runs and just have them running over the shop Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 01:58
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