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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Hey BMW people. I'm thinking about giving up on my S60R given the need to replace the transmission, and possibly moving on to a BMW. I want a sports sedan whatever I do, and everyone says the M3 and M5 are the best. My question is, can I get one in the $18-22k range which is likely to cost me less than $2000/yr in repairs? I am not counting consumables (tires, brakes, fluids, maintenance) in that number, but I do mean as an average number. I want something that isn't very likely to throw a $5k repair bill at me like my R is fixing to do. Note that I would most likely be taking the car to an independent mechanic for most repairs, not doing it myself. Sounds like a top range non-M car might be better for you. M cars have an M tax which can easily blow your $2k/yr maintenance budget. M cars have M-specific parts (eg brakes) and require M-specific maintenance procedures (eg valve adjustment). When you try to buy said parts and services, you can quite literally hear a cash register ding in the background and the mechanic/parts store guy blinks and you see little $ signs in his eyes, because if you're buying M- parts, you must be loaded. I'm sure you can get the costs down if you're able to do your own maintenance though. Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 02:22
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If you are worried about maintenance costs, don't pay 20K for a car that once sold for over three times that.
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Jun 10, 2014 02:35
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Hey BMW people. I'm thinking about giving up on my S60R given the need to replace the transmission, and possibly moving on to a BMW. I want a sports sedan whatever I do, and everyone says the M3 and M5 are the best. My question is, can I get one in the $18-22k range which is likely to cost me less than $2000/yr in repairs? I am not counting consumables (tires, brakes, fluids, maintenance) in that number, but I do mean as an average number. I want something that isn't very likely to throw a $5k repair bill at me like my R is fixing to do. Note that I would most likely be taking the car to an independent mechanic for most repairs, not doing it myself. The car you wan't doesn't exist. M-cars, especially those in your price range, will nickel and dime you to death...if nickels and dimes were worth a thousand bucks each. Seriously, an E46 M3 or (especially) an E39 M5 will cost way more than your S60R to keep running. Now if I was you, with your budget, I would consider looking at an E90 335. Fuel pump aside, it pretty much fits your budget and what you seem to want from a car. Plus you're a chip away from 400 bhp as well 
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Jun 10, 2014 02:47
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Hey fair enough, I'm not set on an M car and I had a feeling that the repair costs might go higher than I could stomach. I was actually cross shopping the 335 when I got the R, but was lead to believe that the R was the better handling car. I guess I'll have to track down a decent 335 and make up my own mind on that count. So do you think the 335 would be cheaper from a repairs standpoint than the R, since it doesn't have the "M tax"? I'll do some research on common issues, but a rough idea of what to expect would be nice.
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Jun 10, 2014 02:54
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Hey fair enough, I'm not set on an M car and I had a feeling that the repair costs might go higher than I could stomach. I was actually cross shopping the 335 when I got the R, but was lead to believe that the R was the better handling car. I guess I'll have to track down a decent 335 and make up my own mind on that count. So do you think the 335 would be cheaper from a repairs standpoint than the R, since it doesn't have the "M tax"? I'll do some research on common issues, but a rough idea of what to expect would be nice. BMW have their particular foibles in addition to standard "poo poo happens" mechanical problems. The main issues to research would be the cooling system, HPFP and the turbo. Cooling system replacement is basically scheduled maintenance with any BMW, HPFP is specific to 335i/535i and pretty much all year models have to worry about it, and the turbo is also specific to 335i/535i, but I believe it's only a sometimes issue and then only in the first or second year of production. If you consider the risk/cost of these brand/model specific problems, then add in the costs associated with any euro car, you should get a baseline to compare with the R. You would have a better understanding than anyone here of what the specific issues associated with your current car are to say which would overall be cheaper. But to actually answer your question, $2k/yr is absolutely do-able for a good condition, naturally aspirated 3/5 series with an I4 or I6, and if you do your own work, you could possibly halve that. Turbos and V8's will cost more and have their own, often completely different foibles. Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 04:24
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Hey fair enough, I'm not set on an M car and I had a feeling that the repair costs might go higher than I could stomach. I was actually cross shopping the 335 when I got the R, but was lead to believe that the R was the better handling car. I guess I'll have to track down a decent 335 and make up my own mind on that count. So do you think the 335 would be cheaper from a repairs standpoint than the R, since it doesn't have the "M tax"? I'll do some research on common issues, but a rough idea of what to expect would be nice. If you can just focus on the top of your budget at $22k you should be able to find some well sorted 2008-2009 335's out there, maybe even a stray 2010. Don't sell the much simpler and less powerful 328's out either unless you are absolutely focused on cracking 5 second 0-60 mph. E90 M3's still carry a nearly $20k premium at this point and are not as well a refined daily driver and may actually be too nasty a jump up for you at this point. Of course in another 2 years go for it once they drop in price more. I recently let my 2011 335 sport with 22k miles go for right under $30k so if you are patient you should be able to find something a bit older that hits your budget. Just pay for a proper PPI and set aside or have a credit line ready for at least $2k worth of maintenance within a year or two. E90 335 is an angry little car and a proper BMW. Even the sport automatic is a fantastic compromise so don't rule those out either without test driving one first. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 04:40
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Thanks guys, you've definitely given me some things to think about. I was looking at 335's and it seems most of those available in the northeast are x-drive models. I know that somewhat goes against the point of a BMW, but we have no shortage of weather up here. How is x-drive compared to the RWD models? Obviously worse fuel economy, but how much does it impact the performance and handling?
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Jun 10, 2014 13:11
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My E30 is doing this thing again where it stalls out after the first time I stop at a light or something, about a mile down the road the night after it rains. It stalled out in the middle of an intersection on me this time and I'm pretty sure I just tweaked my back again pushing it out of traffic and into a parking lot so it's something I need to fix before it murders me. I've smelt fuel when it's done this before so I'm thinking it's spark related? Could condensation under the distributor cap or moisture in the spark plug boots cause something like this? I can get it to start right after it stalls out but if I give it any gas it starts chugging and dies. From there it slowly gets better where it will start chugging around 1k rpm and then 1500-2k until the problem disappears entirely.
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Jun 10, 2014 15:01
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Possibly a leaky injector, that's what my mechanic said the last time I asked him about hard starts on a hot engine.
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Jun 10, 2014 15:45
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So it only happens when it is raining? Get a spray bottle, wait til it is dark, and spray it around the spark plug wires, cap, etc while it's running. Look for arcing. How long does it take until it runs right? It could also be water ingress at the ecu. Check for corrosion at the connector.
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Jun 10, 2014 16:38
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Thanks guys, you've definitely given me some things to think about. I was looking at 335's and it seems most of those available in the northeast are x-drive models. I know that somewhat goes against the point of a BMW, but we have no shortage of weather up here. How is x-drive compared to the RWD models? Obviously worse fuel economy, but how much does it impact the performance and handling? Most of my knowledge stops at the e46, so maybe someone with an e9x can chime in here and correct me if they improved it/I'm horribly wrong. Generally though (at least for the e46) xDrive is thought of negatively. It adds a lot of weight, is a locked 60/40 ratio, and generally just doesn't compare well to other modern AWD systems. Honestly, if I'm getting a BMW, it's going to be manual and RWD because those are the two selling points they have over other makes. (Also, if you live in the northeast you should be used to running a set of snow tires in winter anyway, which is what really makes the difference in traction and control, rather than AWD.)
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Jun 10, 2014 17:55
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The E90 AWD system is massively more sophisticated than the E46 system. That said, my RWD E46 does well in the snow with real snow tires.
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Jun 10, 2014 18:25
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Lightbulb Out posted:I think that is correct. I would just check if any are blown.  I think I found the problem. Replaced with a spare 30A and the blower motor works again. It didn't pop instantly so I don't know exactly what happened to pop it in the first place. rscott fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 18:45
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rscott posted:
I think blowers tend to draw more current if they're on their way out. You might be lucky and it was a fluke. EDIT: Speaking of flukes, if I use cruise control on my E36 before the engine's warmed up I blow the CC fuse.
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Jun 10, 2014 18:53
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Viper_3000 posted:Most of my knowledge stops at the e46, so maybe someone with an e9x can chime in here and correct me if they improved it/I'm horribly wrong. Generally though (at least for the e46) xDrive is thought of negatively. It adds a lot of weight, is a locked 60/40 ratio, and generally just doesn't compare well to other modern AWD systems. Honestly, if I'm getting a BMW, it's going to be manual and RWD because those are the two selling points they have over other makes. (Also, if you live in the northeast you should be used to running a set of snow tires in winter anyway, which is what really makes the difference in traction and control, rather than AWD.) Yeah if I were to buy one I'd definitely prefer RWD and manual. As you said, why get a BMW otherwise? I test drove a 2008 335 today. Unfortunately it was an xi because they didn't have a regular 335i available. The dealer said it's extremely uncommon to find one in the northeast (unsurprising). I liked it, it compares favorably to my S60R especially in the area of suspension and steering feel, like you'd expect. Overall though the difference was not massive enough to make me want to go through the headache and expense of selling my car for it, and there were definitely things I didn't like as much. It wasn't nearly as comfortable, it didn't feel as fast, though I didn't have a good place to really open it up, and it surprisingly didn't sound as good. I think I "get" the BMW thing now, but for the time being I think I'll probably just fix my car, as the expense of going to the BMW would be about double what I'm looking at, and at least with mine I know what its problems are and have fixed most of them at this point.
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Jun 11, 2014 01:45
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mafoose posted:So it only happens when it is raining? Get a spray bottle, wait til it is dark, and spray it around the spark plug wires, cap, etc while it's running. Look for arcing. After it stalls out it takes maybe 5-10 minutes of starting it, feeling the engine lug when I touch the throttle before it runs like it normally does through the rev range. ECU seems possible. It runs fine when I first start it up, it's after I brake and stop for a light, when it's been running for 3-4 minutes and let off the throttle that it stalls out.
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Jun 11, 2014 02:35
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rscott posted:After it stalls out it takes maybe 5-10 minutes of starting it, feeling the engine lug when I touch the throttle before it runs like it normally does through the rev range. ECU seems possible. It runs fine when I first start it up, it's after I brake and stop for a light, when it's been running for 3-4 minutes and let off the throttle that it stalls out. Pretty classic vacuum leak symptoms, no?
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Jun 11, 2014 02:38
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But why only the morning after it rains overnight? poo poo it poured all day yesterday and I drove it home without a problem
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Jun 11, 2014 02:40
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rscott posted:But why only the morning after it rains overnight? poo poo it poured all day yesterday and I drove it home without a problem
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Jun 11, 2014 15:51
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Yeah if I were to buy one I'd definitely prefer RWD and manual. As you said, why get a BMW otherwise? A turbo AWD BMW is a lot of fun for exactly the same reasons other turbo AWD cars are typically a lot of fun. Only not a trashy,  looking box like a WRX or Evo. E: I sort of wish I still owned my trashy 06 WRX. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 11, 2014 17:40
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sean10mm posted:A turbo AWD BMW is a lot of fun for exactly the same reasons other turbo AWD cars are typically a lot of fun. Only not a trashy, Those reasons being "it's harder to play elevensies" and "it's harder to make the tail slide out"? I think you meant  , RWD supremacy 4-ever.
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Jun 11, 2014 19:12
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I had the front of the 530i up today doing an intensive clean of the front wheels. While I was there, I saw the driver's side sway bar bushing was super easy to get to, so I changed it, since I had new OEM bushings on the shelf. Then I went to the passenger side and cried. 6 Cylinder E39s have a completely different front sway bar setup than the V8s and the passenger side mount is underneath/inside the fender liner and a couple heat shields. A little maneuvering and it wasn't as bad as it first looked... still took 30 minutes versus the driver's side 10 minutes, though.
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Jun 11, 2014 19:17
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:I had the front of the 530i up today doing an intensive clean of the front wheels. While I was there, I saw the driver's side sway bar bushing was super easy to get to, so I changed it, since I had new OEM bushings on the shelf. Then I went to the passenger side and cried. 6 Cylinder E39s have a completely different front sway bar setup than the V8s and the passenger side mount is underneath/inside the fender liner and a couple heat shields. A little maneuvering and it wasn't as bad as it first looked... still took 30 minutes versus the driver's side 10 minutes, though. Why wouldn't you just do it when you do thrust arm bushings?
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Jun 11, 2014 19:32
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Powershift posted:Why wouldn't you just do it when you do thrust arm bushings? Really I just did it because I had the parts on the shelf. The rubber on the car is in stupid fresh shape, the sway bar bushings were virtually identical to the new ones... I don't see a front end refresh coming for a while.
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Jun 11, 2014 19:38
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HotCanadianChick posted:Those reasons being "it's harder to play elevensies" and "it's harder to make the tail slide out"? With the open rear diff in most BMWs you're just making onesies. 
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Jun 11, 2014 20:58
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meatpimp posted:Really I just did it because I had the parts on the shelf. The rubber on the car is in stupid fresh shape, the sway bar bushings were virtually identical to the new ones... I don't see a front end refresh coming for a while. They do love to chew thrust arms though. 60k miles for replacement isn't unusual. How you liking the ride? There's an 02 530i 5spd for sale near me pretty cheap but its no where near as pristine as yours. Unless I make a trip to visit the meatpimp house for paint work.
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Jun 11, 2014 21:07
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Cooling system and valve cover gasket replacements today on my 530i, which makes a great way to celebrate not being hospitalized from cellulitis. 
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Jun 11, 2014 21:17
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BrokenKnucklez posted:They do love to chew thrust arms though. 60k miles for replacement isn't unusual. I love the car. Only downside is the lack of power. I don't think a 5 speed would be much better in that regard, it's pretty much gutless. The M5 rear sway and M-parallel wheels with sticky rubber transformed the handling, though. Cloverleafs can be taken at stupid speed now. It's actually quite fun. I continue to be amazed at its condition. I was able to remove the 7mm bolt that holds the heat shield for the cats on with absolutely no drama. This is a heat shield bolt that is literally in a horizontal recess and sits in whatever water/moisture is there. I'm in Ohio, any other car that I've seen would have had this bolt seized and corroded all to hell. Not fighting corrosion makes any job so much nicer.
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Jun 11, 2014 22:13
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I took my peasantmobile in for service because of a CEL last saturday. So far they have replaced the valvetronic motor, ignition coils and are replacing the ECU now. Go go gadget CPO. The past week and a half has renewed my hatred for crossovers. I've been driving a 2014 X3. If they told me they would 1 for 1 swap my 135i for this X3. I would contemplate saying no before saying yes, selling the X3 and then buying another 135i.
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Jun 11, 2014 22:31
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Anything powered by the M54 is not a fast car by BMW standards, but it's a great engine that gets good gas mileage and can even sound good with a little work. Here's my old car (my first BMW) with a CAI installed for a little more induction sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lv7HigXdM0 I remember getting 28 MPG averaging 80 MPH for ages in that thing.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:10
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Also discovered that one of the 4 headlight adjusters isn't broken.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:38
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Does anyone have any comments about the auto transmissions in the E90/92 cars? Specifically, would someone be satisfied with it if they were used to driving a manual and wanted to do the occasional autox or track day? Looking at some 2006 330i's and it's very difficult to find them in 6 speed, certainly seems to raise the selling price quite a bit also. I've seen some auto late model 3 series at track days that seem to do just fine but would like to hear from goons about it.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:51
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I don't know about spirited driving but they seem pretty nice to drive daily.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:53
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I like the auto in mine a lot, but in your shoes I'd hold out for a manual if you plan on doing more than a handful of events ever.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:59
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My 335i has the sport 6 speed with the paddles and I drove it, then drove a manual, then went and bought the auto. I actually like the auto better, as sad as it is to say that. It's a lovely autobox. Responsive, quick and it does what you tell it. I don't track it but for spirited driving it's great.
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Jun 12, 2014 00:23
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VelociBacon posted:Does anyone have any comments about the auto transmissions in the E90/92 cars? Specifically, would someone be satisfied with it if they were used to driving a manual and wanted to do the occasional autox or track day? Looking at some 2006 330i's and it's very difficult to find them in 6 speed, certainly seems to raise the selling price quite a bit also. I've seen some auto late model 3 series at track days that seem to do just fine but would like to hear from goons about it. I'm not sure if the 330 has the same auto transmission (the ZF one, not the GM one that the 328s get), but if it does, it is an extremely good one. It shifts very fast and smoothly and has never denied me a gear change that wouldn't have over-revved the engine. Unless you like the feel of rowing through gears, I would get the automatic. It's faster, gets better gas mileage, can be turned to full auto for heavy traffic, etc. It's really good.
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Jun 12, 2014 00:40
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That's why I don't feel bad about the DCT. I kind of wish I had got a manual so I could say I have a manual and be a cool bro. But it's nice to have the option of lazily driving around or using the paddles and left foot braking.
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Jun 12, 2014 00:41
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VelociBacon posted:Does anyone have any comments about the auto transmissions in the E90/92 cars? Specifically, would someone be satisfied with it if they were used to driving a manual and wanted to do the occasional autox or track day? Looking at some 2006 330i's and it's very difficult to find them in 6 speed, certainly seems to raise the selling price quite a bit also. I've seen some auto late model 3 series at track days that seem to do just fine but would like to hear from goons about it. I drove nothing but BMW manuals (along with an auto SUV from 2003-2007) over the last 12....errrrr 15+ years  .....but I really liked the 6 speed sport auto on the 2011 E90 I had. It takes a while to find the sweet spots on downshifts around turns so it will never naturally track like a MT or provide the connection of an MT - but for the other 99% of the time, it's a great compromise. The new 8 speed is even better and quicker.
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 01:08
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Guinness posted:The E90 AWD system is massively more sophisticated than the E46 system. Truth. I had to drive from Syracuse to Fulton during the Valentine's Day storm in 2006. RWD E46 with 4 snows handled it like a champ.
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Jun 12, 2014 03:24
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Dantu posted:Truth. I had to drive from Syracuse to Fulton during the Valentine's Day storm in 2006. RWD E46 with 4 snows handled it like a champ. Oh man, I remember that storm. I had my old Celica (1996) then, and still managed to get around Syracuse better than everyone else. Perks of learning to drive in Vermont, I guess. Buying an E90 AWD was like going to easy mode after that car.
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Jun 12, 2014 04:16
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