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jamal posted:The line you have for the push type clutch is longer than the pull-type 6-speed line. You should be able to use it, but might have to put an extra loop in it or something so that it's in the right place. The goodridge line for that is like $26 or you could probably get one at technafit in torrance. Good call on technafit, I always forget that they're in my backyard. 
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Jun 7, 2014 12:36
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I nearly fit my matress in the back of my impreza wagon, it was 10cm too long. I also managed to fit an entire Silvia s13 (240sx in America) front end. Subarus are good for hauling your poo poo. I don't know which model you have, but I made sure the '15s do before I considered buying it.
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Jun 7, 2014 14:27
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I moved a 36" Sony Trinitron in the trunk of a 98 Impreza coupe once. That was an interesting 8 miles.
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Jun 7, 2014 15:32
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rcman50166 posted:I don't know which model you have, but I made sure the '15s do before I considered buying it. 2005
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Jun 7, 2014 17:51
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Alright, more head gasket chat. I've got two problems. Basically hardware accessibility issues. This one is the EGR return line to the intake manifold. Obviously I can't use a socket to get it off but a crescent doesn't fit in there, either.   This one is a head cover bolt. It's all the way in the back, inaccessible from underneath and impossible to reach from the front.   Any suggestions on how to get these off would be really appreciated.
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Jun 7, 2014 18:12
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For the EGR:My Son bought a Edit So it would look like this:  For the Head Cover bolt I use something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96781.html Swivel head, 1/4 drive. daslog fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jun 7, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 18:28
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Anyone going to the Wicked Big Meet tomorrow? I just moved nearby so I'm going to check it out.
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Jun 8, 2014 01:57
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http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/cto/4502975896.html I'm looking at this car tomorrow, anything I should be looking out for or running away from? The biggest concern I have is that the "throwout bearing" is really a transmission or viscous coupling problem. Should I try to knock the price down enough to mitigate a worst case scenario or just stay away completely?
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Jun 8, 2014 06:07
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Sex Weirdo posted:http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/cto/4502975896.html Newer clutch and "throw out bearing issues" is a red flag. Could be the trans snout, could be something in the trans, could actually be the throw out bearing. I'd have to hear it to make a judgement.
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Jun 8, 2014 13:26
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$4200 seems like an ok deal to me if the car itself is solid. Maybe bargain down on the trans if you can. I'd be more worried about the ricer tail lights, and the lack of power steering (probably is a pump, but could be something even more annoying). Curious about where the old engine went and what maintenance habits allowed that to happen. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 8, 2014 15:40
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Slow is Fast posted:Newer clutch and "throw out bearing issues" is a red flag. Could be the trans snout, could be something in the trans, could actually be the throw out bearing. I'd have to hear it to make a judgement. Well it's definitely making a noise. It happens in all gears under light load, meaning it seems to go away while coasting and at more than 1/3 throttle. Seems to be in the trans to me. Clutch in or out doesn't seem to matter, it's only on acceleration. The noise itself definitely sounds like a bad bearing to me, like a growl/howl. My guess without really knowing subarus would be center diff bearings? It ran and drove really nice otherwise though. No rust that I could see, looked to be pretty well taken care of. Ended up buying it anyway. We shook on $3800, hopefully I didn't gently caress myself too badly.
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Jun 9, 2014 00:39
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Sounds like youre right. TOB will only make noise when its pusing on the pressure plate in my experience.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I am absurdly jealous of your rust-free free Outback. Sadly this is not the case. There are two fist sized rust spots at the top of the windshield, one on each side under the rear doors and one on the hatch. Free is free.
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Jun 9, 2014 16:38
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Oh my god this thread is so long and I haven't clicked on it (or even AI really) is so long, so apologies if this has been discussed recently or whatever. My wife's 04 Forester developed a bit of rod knock last fall, and after having it sit in the alley all winter, I'm finally now getting around to taking the engine out. I'm basically to the point where I'm unbolting the engine from the transmission...  And it seems like the bolts on the driver's side are basically impossible to get at?? Like, between the starter motor and the AC hard lines, there's not enough room to move a breaker bar to get the lower starter nut loose. I've got a little 110psi/3 gallon compressor, so I was thinking of trying a cheap HF air impact gun? I dunno. How the hell do you get at this poo poo? Also, I'm trying to decide between getting the existing engine (with 160k miles on it) rebuilt, dropping in a junkyard engine, or buying a new shortblock. What's the compatibility of these blocks? Like, I thought I read that basically all EJ25 blocks are interchangeable, and you just have to change the intake and/or heads depending on the year, but I also might have just made that up.
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Jun 9, 2014 16:58
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Pop the starter off and you'll kinda mostly be able to hit those last bolts from underneath.
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Jun 9, 2014 17:24
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Ozmiander posted:Pop the starter off and you'll kinda mostly be able to hit those last bolts from underneath. Yeah, easier said than done. Granted, I was sore and tired when I got to it, but I just couldn't get at the bottom starter nut from above. Dunno if it's easier to get at from the bottom, I gave up for the day at that point.
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Jun 9, 2014 17:53
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From below the car it is easier. When I'm pulling an engine I'll try to get everything on the bottom all at once and then not have to lift the car back up. So engine mounts, trans mount, lower rad hose, fan harnesses, exhaust, all the engine to trans bolts/nuts except the top two and the lower starter mount. Impact gun + extension + wobbley socket.
jamal fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jun 9, 2014 |
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Jun 9, 2014 17:58
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jamal posted:From below the car it is easier. When I'm pulling an engine I'll try to get everything on the bottom all at once and then not have to lift the car back up. So engine mounts, trans mount, lower rad hose, exhaust, all the engine to trans bolts/nuts except the top two and the lower starter mount. Impact gun + extension + wobbley socket. Ok, cool. That's what I'll do when I get back to it on Saturday, I guess.
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Jun 9, 2014 19:48
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Changed my own oil, started tightening my drain plug, eventually it got loose as I was tightening it. Thought nothing of it like an idiot, found a puddle outside the car 30 min later. Luckily I was at ECS performance for a pre WBM event and they took a look at the car today and found I had stripped the drain plug. I liked it too  
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Jun 10, 2014 03:29
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Yakattak posted:Changed my own oil, started tightening my drain plug, eventually it got loose as I was tightening it. Thought nothing of it like an idiot, found a puddle outside the car 30 min later. Luckily I was at ECS performance for a pre WBM event and they took a look at the car today and found I had stripped the drain plug. I liked it too Be glad you didn't strip the pan!
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Jun 10, 2014 09:40
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VelociBacon posted:Be glad you didn't strip the pan! They were shocked the pan didn't strip. They were thinking the pan was stronger metal than the plug.
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Jun 10, 2014 11:39
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Ah ha, I've finally found the gorilla who always torques down my oil filter and drain plug! That plug doesn't need any significant torque, it's like 30ft/lb. You can use a 1/4" ratchet and if you're putting your arm into it, it's too much.
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Jun 10, 2014 14:45
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si posted:Ah ha, I've finally found the gorilla who always torques down my oil filter and drain plug! I honestly did not use much torque at all. I did it the way I usually did it. I have no idea what the real cause is but whatever. Could be gorilla arms.
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Jun 10, 2014 16:19
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Yakattak posted:I honestly did not use much torque at all. I did it the way I usually did it. I have no idea what the real cause is but whatever. Could be gorilla arms. Probably just a softer metal in the aftermarket plug.
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Jun 10, 2014 16:25
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Got my catted DP on Friday so a friend of mine and I got to work on Saturday.  It did not change the sound as much as I had thought, but I didn't really want a loud exhaust anyway. I can hear the intake just enough and the motor rumble just enough. Running the COBB OTS S2+AEM map right now and logging away to see how it is going. Car feels extremely strong, third gear crazy. I honestly am done with power mods at this point. It seems like plenty for the street and the occasional trip to a track day if I get the time. I haven't decided about the heat shield. I was going to cut mine and then just decided to look at an aftermarket one or a turbo blanket. I'm not one for putting logos and poo poo on my car so the turbo blanket seems functional and preferable to me. I have heard people say it will shorten the life of the turbo, and then others say not at all. Any thoughts? I need to pick up a wideband for that bung as well. Innovate has two options now, and then there is the AEM as well. Is there any real preference to these, maybe one not mentioned?
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Jun 10, 2014 16:34
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Aflicted posted:Got my catted DP on Friday so a friend of mine and I got to work on Saturday. The shop that does all my tuning uses only AEM when it's them installing it.
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Jun 10, 2014 17:06
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AEM is really the recommended wide band around where I hang too. When I turbo my RS I'm going to cheap out on nearly everything except the wideband.
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Jun 10, 2014 18:02
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I've always just cut the edge off the back of the stock heat shield.
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Jun 10, 2014 18:08
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Something like this http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-interior/180674-stealth-zeitronix-gauge-install-phase-2-complete.html is exactly what I'm looking for from a gauge mount perspective. I don't know much about Zeitronix though so any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm trying to find out the dimensions of the screen so I can look at other solutions as well, otherwise I'll probably pick up a VBG1. I know that it and ATR will talk to the innovate setup, I'll have to check on the AEM one but I would be shocked if it wasn't the same story. At the point that I started modding the car, I made a conscious decision that being cheap about it was not a sustainable long term practice. Part of the pay to play aspect. That said, I probably will dremel off the back of my stock heat shield and be done with that for the time being.
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Jun 10, 2014 18:14
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Zeitronix makes some pretty top notch gear, with features (realtime and post data logging, etc) on par with your options from AEM and Innovate. I haven't used their VFD screen, I've had some weird issues with their cup gauges, and not being able to view them with certain polarized lenses. I don't know if it's an anti-reflective coating that interferes with it or what; I didn't really look into it, as it wasn't my vehicle. Their real-time e85 analyzer is neat though.  Also, 'nthing the heat shield trimming - you'll lose a bracket mounting point, but it's not a big deal. Unless you start to heatwrap/goldtape/ceramic coat everything, I wouldn't bother with trying to min/max with a blanket.
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Jun 10, 2014 19:05
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Got a new toy. 
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Jun 11, 2014 03:03
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Congratulations. Someone on facebook just pointed out to me that the new WRX front looks like a 20 year newer redesign of a GC8, and i can definitely see it.   There's definitely a resemblance, unlike the last generation,
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Jun 11, 2014 03:27
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Interesting. I see an angrier legacy. My parents have a darker colored one so if I'm not paying attention, sometimes I think it's my car upon first glance.
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Jun 11, 2014 03:37
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Excellent color choice!
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Jun 11, 2014 04:16
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The front of the 2015 is gorgeous, but the profile is pretty boring...just like the 93-01 WRX. I'm just sad they didn't dial in more fender flare.
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Jun 11, 2014 13:18
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rcman let me drive it with less than 50 miles on it. I really understand the Motor Trend WRX vs Focus ST review now. The Focus, while still a good and fun car, just doesn't feel as nice overall plus I could actually heel toe the WRX. The WRX also feels lighter than the Focus despite being a bit heavier. I'm happy I didn't rush to buy a Fiesta ST now. I still very well may get the Fiesta but I'm going to think hard about the WRX. If they were available with in a hatch back it wouldn't be much of a competition.
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Jun 11, 2014 14:13
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Gas smell in the cabin of a 2005 WRX when pulling away from a stop. Internet crystal ball says I need to tighten the screws on the fuel line fittings? What say you o wise SA Subaru thread?
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Jun 11, 2014 15:54
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Yeah, you need to tighten the screws on the fuel line fittings. Mine only stink when it's very very cold, so if it's currently hot, you might want to tighten those screws and then start looking around the fuel tank area for things that have gone wrong.
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Jun 11, 2014 15:59
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Like SSS said. Fuel smell is only when cold, tighten all your fuel line clamps in the engine bay anyway. If that doesn't do it, you need to start looking around to locate the origin.
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Jun 11, 2014 17:02
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Check for Leaky Fuel Injectors too.
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Jun 11, 2014 17:09
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