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Am I too late in saying ScienceAndMusic should get a Grom if he wants a small and light bike? 
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Jun 13, 2014 09:32
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I'd clean the carbs and replace the intake boot O-rings. They are known to cause air leaks when they get old and shrunken. After that sync them and you should be golden. I daily (nearly) the same bike with almost 70k on it and it's a trooper. No idea on piston ring manufacturers. Maybe see if you can find some NOS ones on eBay?
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Jun 13, 2014 19:30
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Mmm GS's. Bikes I know about.red19fire posted:RISE FROM YOUR GRAVE Your pilot circuits are plugged. You have BS30SS's IIRC. Pull your float bowls, and remove the pilot jets, throw those in carb cleaner while you address the rest of the carbs. on the top of hte carbs, there will either be screws down some holes, or metal plugs. On the engine side. Those are the pilot screws, those need to be removed, the passages cleaned (with spray carb cleaner) and reset, to 2.5 turns out. The choke keeps the bike running ,because the choke circuit is separate, but stops flowing fuel as soon as you open the throttle plate much past idle. ChewedFood posted:Hey I'm working on a project 83 gs750es! What makes you think you need rings? Generally speaking, go with OEM. They are usually the best engineered parts out there, and aren't all that expensive. If the bike has less than 60,000 miles on it, the rings are probably still just fine. Engines are engines. :-) Air cooled, water cooled, oil cooled (which yours is...) it's all the same poo poo.
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Jun 13, 2014 20:00
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Nerobro posted:Mmm GS's. Bikes I know about. Thanks, I figured as much. Can I do this without removing the carbs from the engine? I hate that  What would you recommend for a 90 degree screwdriver to get the 2 and 3 bowls off?
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Jun 13, 2014 21:04
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I doubt you could get them apart with them installed. You may be able to get the outer ones apart but not the inners. I'd also grab a set of the little rubber plugs that go under the pilot jets (you can get them on eBay for around $10). They disintegrate after millions of years of soaking in fuel and will make it a bitch to get them back together. Also, I would definitely replace those intake boot o-rings. My idle got quite a bit better when I did mine.
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Jun 13, 2014 21:18
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Collateral Damage posted:Am I too late in saying ScienceAndMusic should get a Grom if he wants a small and light bike? I knew it to be something good when I skip town for a few days and a thread racks up 250 new posts
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Jun 13, 2014 23:11
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Collateral Damage posted:Am I too late in saying ScienceAndMusic should get a Grom if he wants a small and light bike? I unironically think the grom is rad! 
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Jun 13, 2014 23:16
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The dude who sold me my CBR left work right after he'd handed me the keys. Hopped on his Grom and wheelied off into the sunset. It was weird to be sitting on a brand new 600 and feel a little jealous of the guy on the 125. The Grom is extremely cool.
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Jun 13, 2014 23:37
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red19fire posted:Thanks, I figured as much. Can I do this without removing the carbs from the engine? I hate that Check your idle adjuster first. It's possible it's just backed out all the way and when you take it off choke it closes entirely.
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Jun 14, 2014 01:52
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Changing both my brake pads (and front line) this weekend for the first time. Should I change just one, ride it through the bed-in period, and then change the other? Cause the packaging is like  REDUCED BRAKE PERFORMANCE DURING BED-IN, YOU GONNA DIE p.s. I know you should only change one at a time and then test it. Bed-in is like 250 miles according to the packaging.
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Jun 14, 2014 02:07
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That seems like a lot of extra hassle. Change your pads and ride conservatively for a little bit.
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Jun 14, 2014 02:23
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Sounds good, just wanted to make sure.
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Jun 14, 2014 02:30
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I'd play it safe and change one at a time while riding it to the full bed in procedure. You also might want to revert back to your engine break in procedure while you do it, just to be safe.
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Jun 14, 2014 02:48
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nsaP posted:I'd play it safe and change one at a time while riding it to the full bed in procedure. You also might want to revert back to your engine break in procedure while you do it, just to be safe. I like to put my bike on a front stand and spin the wheel really hard and slam on the brakes just to be safe. I feel it helps with the bed in procedure. For the rear, you can just use the engine to spin the wheel while you mash the rear brake pedal which is a lotttt easier.
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Jun 14, 2014 02:51
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M42 posted:Changing both my brake pads (and front line) this weekend for the first time. Should I change just one, ride it through the bed-in period, and then change the other? Cause the packaging is like Get some scotchbride pads or 400 grit sand paper and scrub your rotors using brake cleaner from your nearest Autozone equivalent. Then go do some slow, long drawn out stops and avoid any hard braking. You need to remove the old pad and put the new grains in your rotors. What kind did you get? edit: do all the pads at the same time. xaarman fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jun 14, 2014 |
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Jun 14, 2014 02:54
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I know a guy who replaced both pads at the same time, RIP homie.
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Jun 14, 2014 02:54
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drat, gonna have to keep a tally of both/one at a time votes now.xaarman posted:What kind did you get? Sintered HH front, organic kevlar rear. Packaging says the bed-in period is the same for both new and used/grooved rotors, so wrt sandpaper
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Jun 14, 2014 03:12
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With the blistering power of a Ninja 250 you can never be too careful, until you fully bed those new pads in I wouldn't go past 30 MPH, I'd carry an emergency parachute with me just to be safe though. or just ride conservatively until you get a feel for your new pads, whatever's easier
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Jun 14, 2014 03:19
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Pretty sure the guys at the dealer told me a brake job would take four days so they could change the pads one at a time and give them a break in period between. Something about playing some smooth jazz and giving them a candlelight bath so they're feeling relaxed and at maximum power when I got my bike back.
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Jun 14, 2014 03:25
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So like if all this long time interval stuff when bedding the pads in is true, why can you take your car to the mechanic and get the brakes done in two hours and drive it home pretty much normally that day? Are motorcycle pads different? Or is it just that, like all other motorcycle work, you need to be extra careful because the consequences of failure are that much greater?
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Jun 14, 2014 03:47
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No, all of this is retarded. Put the pads in your bike. Ride off up the road to like 100km/h and repeatedly just jump on the brakes until they come right. Sage the reason you can just drive home from the mechanic's is because the mechanic does that part for you.
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Jun 14, 2014 04:07
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Slavvy posted:No, all of this is retarded. Put the pads in your bike. Ride off up the road to like 100km/h and repeatedly just jump on the brakes until they come right. Sage the reason you can just drive home from the mechanic's is because the mechanic does that part for you. This. Car mechanics do it for you. Just do all your pads at once, go give it the beans and jump on the brakes a few times and it'll be sweet.
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Jun 14, 2014 05:12
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She's got HH pads going in too... The magic of them doesn't come alive until you're getting the brakes track hot. Lever feel changes dramatically when up to temp and they gain a shitload of grip. poo poo feels wooden on the street.
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Jun 14, 2014 05:19
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I've used them on the road before. They got stronger when hot but I didn't feel that they were wooden. They were in my old 919 and they were a sight better than the ferodo sintered pads in my current 919, which I need to get rid of ASAP.
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Jun 14, 2014 07:01
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I must be some kind of psycho because I changed my front and rear tires and brake pads all at the same time and then went on an all day ride. I've never heard of replacing pads one at a time but I guess never really researched it either.
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Jun 14, 2014 08:24
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Oglogoth posted:I must be some kind of psycho because I changed my front and rear tires and brake pads all at the same time and then went on an all day ride. I've never heard of replacing pads one at a time but I guess never really researched it either. This is what everyone who isn't a dealer that can get more $$ out of you does.
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Jun 14, 2014 08:32
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What does everyone like to use to clean stainless headers and pipes? I had good results today with wet sanding with 400 grit working my way up to 1500. I would have had even better results withs 2000 grit. Afterwards I used mother's mag and aluminum polish with great results. But if there's something better I'd like to know cuz the midpipe is going tno be a bitch. This took me the better part of 3 hours.
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Jun 14, 2014 09:13
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Shimrod posted:This is what everyone who isn't a dealer that can get more $$ out of you does. Yeah, I just got new pads a while back and while the brakes did suck serious rear end at first it wasn't an issue at all. It was like stopping in a car. Just go easy for the first 1-10mi and you won't kill yourself? Try not to treat city streets like a drag strip?
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Jun 14, 2014 09:37
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Sagebrush posted:So like if all this long time interval stuff when bedding the pads in is true, why can you take your car to the mechanic and get the brakes done in two hours and drive it home pretty much normally that day? Are motorcycle pads different? Or is it just that, like all other motorcycle work, you need to be extra careful because the consequences of failure are that much greater? Oglogoth posted:I must be some kind of psycho because I changed my front and rear tires and brake pads all at the same time and then went on an all day ride. I've never heard of replacing pads one at a time but I guess never really researched it either. Slavvy posted:No, all of this is retarded. Put the pads in your bike. Ride off up the road to like 100km/h and repeatedly just jump on the brakes until they come right. Sage the reason you can just drive home from the mechanic's is because the mechanic does that part for you. LOL
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Jun 14, 2014 11:41
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Yeah apparently this wasn't blindingly obvious but everyone saying to change 1 pad at a time was messing around. Change all your pads at the same time then ride conservatively until you've been able to do some hard braking from 60 or so. Cripes.
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Jun 14, 2014 14:41
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astrollinthepork posted:What does everyone like to use to clean stainless headers and pipes? I had good results today with wet sanding with 400 grit working my way up to 1500. I would have had even better results withs 2000 grit. Afterwards I used mother's mag and aluminum polish with great results. But if there's something better I'd like to know cuz the midpipe is going tno be a bitch. This took me the better part of 3 hours. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNuecgpQOAk http://www.amazon.com/YOSHIMURA-Abrasive-stainless-Muffler-Cleaner/dp/B003SBW448 Thank me later. ** Oh whoops didn't realize this wasn't available domestically anymore, that $67 price tag is nuts. This is a cheaper alternative http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-F...+keepers+friend HNasty fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Jun 14, 2014 |
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Jun 14, 2014 15:32
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Nerobro posted:
Well i disassembled everything to check for rust because the oil was very emulsified and sitting for ten years like that. So obviously i removed the cylinder and according to every mechanic ever if you take the piston out of the cylinder you better be putting new stuff back in. The book would be very helpful to me. I learned my job in the navy (nuclear machinist) by reading obsessively detailed books that describe the purpose of every little piece of every little component and the mechanics behind how it accomplishes its purpose. So any Navy guys out there: know of a reactor-plant-manual-specific book about combustion engines?
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Jun 14, 2014 16:34
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Pretty sure your best bet is going to be getting a workshop manual for your bike. Also being a "Nuclear Machinist" sounds loving ballin'
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Jun 14, 2014 16:40
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ChewedFood posted:nuclear machinist Whoa! That would be an interesting ask/tell thread, although I'm sure it's mostly hush hush.
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Jun 14, 2014 17:38
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Is pulling in the cluch and coasting while at highway speeds going to damage anything? I do it from time to time to rest my throttle hand, just wondering.
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Jun 14, 2014 18:32
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Tanbo posted:Is pulling in the cluch and coasting while at highway speeds going to damage anything? I do it from time to time to rest my throttle hand, just wondering. Won't cause any mechanical problems but it's pretty bad form. TBH you're probably better off looking at why your throttle hand needs a rest - you're almost certainly gripping too hard and/or have your controls set up wrong. Basically if you're going along normally just the weight of your hand on top of the throttle should be more than enough to stop it closing (try it out with the bike standing still and turned off).
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Jun 14, 2014 18:42
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Did 150 miles over 3-4 hours, lot of it was twisties and scenic sweepers through the mountains. I've been concentrating on my posture and making sure my arms and grip are loose but I was still starting to feel it near the end. It's the downhill parts where I catch myself putting too much weight on my wrists, especially under braking.
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Jun 14, 2014 19:14
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Shimrod posted:Pretty sure your best bet is going to be getting a workshop manual for your bike. I was thinking an ASE course book maybe. I've learned a lot just reading various machinist literature on the internet so far. like did you know that cylinders will have to be honed to a different finish (using the Ra scale which is something we use at work) based on the material of the top ring (chrome, molybdenum, nitride)? Ola posted:Whoa! That would be an interesting ask/tell thread, although I'm sure it's mostly hush hush. Goons in platoons has a Navy nuclear propulsion thread that is basically that ChewedFood fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jun 14, 2014 |
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Jun 14, 2014 19:20
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I might be a bit screwed here. The mechanic has had my bike for 12 days, and I feel like I've placed myself in a weak position. I didn't get a quote from him and I don't know exactly what he is doing on the bike. All he has told me is that he needed to rebuild the carburetors because they were nasty and that the tank is full of rust. I'm afraid that he is going to charge me out the rear end for whatever he feels like doing to the bike, and is going to take his sweet motherfucking time to do so. What can I do? The guy working on the bike has been "with a customer" or "unable to talk" the last 4 times I've called, and won't call me back. The mechanic is 45 minutes away from where I live, so visiting in person just to talk to him again is a bit out of the question. I'm seriously considering trying to figure out how to get the bike to a different mechanic. mainks fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jun 14, 2014 |
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Jun 14, 2014 20:37
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I would be down there asking him for a detailed write up (with estimates of the cost) of what he is doing (as far as the carb rebuild and cleaning the tank), as well as leaving instructions that he is to call you and get authorization, before performing any additional work. You should never give a shop a "blank check", unless you have very deep pockets.
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Jun 14, 2014 20:50
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