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Except for size and weight, would there any point in getting the 40 2.8 when I already own the Sigma 35 1.4 Art?
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Jun 15, 2014 15:16
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bolind posted:Except for size and weight, would there any point in getting the 40 2.8 when I already own the Sigma 35 1.4 Art? Size, weight, price and quality for the price and size are the real deals. You're already equipped with a great lens, might not need the 40 in this case. Go peep some pictures with it and see if you like them enough to give it a try.
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Jun 15, 2014 15:37
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Nope, but don't underestimate just how small and light the 40 is. I have both, there's really no reason not to toss the 40 in my bag if I'm carrying a bunch of other gear and I don't want to pack the Sigma.
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Jun 15, 2014 16:16
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bolind posted:Except for size and weight, would there any point in getting the 40 2.8 when I already own the Sigma 35 1.4 Art?
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Jun 15, 2014 16:17
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Whirlwind Jones posted:The Sigma ART lenses are freaking bricks. I mean it's a great all around lens, but the 40 is something like 6x lighter. For a walk around that's a pretty big difference. This is exactly my feeling in the matter. I've the standard 30 1.4 and the 40 2.8 and the 40 is so much lighter for just walk around stuff.
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Jun 15, 2014 23:00
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Quantum of Phallus posted:This is exactly my feeling in the matter. I've the standard 30 1.4 and the 40 2.8 and the 40 is so much lighter for just walk around stuff.
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Jun 16, 2014 01:23
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I have the sigma 50mm f1.4(not art but still hefty,) and the 40mm f2.8. I love the 40mm f2.8 for touristing around and couple it with my 10-22 on a canon 7d. As others have said its great when bulk and weight is a concern. I feel the quality of the 40mm is every bit as good as the 50mm, if not better, especially considering the weight and space savings the 40mm gives you. I guess the question other than do you want the weight savings, is do you think losing the 2 stops will matter to you and how comfortable you are bumping the ISO on your particular rig?
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Jun 16, 2014 14:06
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So I've noticed that my refurb 6D drains my battery even when turned off. Is this normal? I'll charge a battery to full, shoot maybe 200-300 pictures with it, then leave it a few days and the battery's done. Is the GPS always on or something? Or is there a defect in my refurb?
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Jun 16, 2014 20:16
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Drewski posted:So I've noticed that my refurb 6D drains my battery even when turned off. Is this normal? I'll charge a battery to full, shoot maybe 200-300 pictures with it, then leave it a few days and the battery's done. Is the GPS always on or something? Or is there a defect in my refurb? Back when I had my 6D it never did this. On another note .. why can't people do a full functionality test on stuff before they sell it? 50D arrives, none of the I/O ports work. Most important of the things to not work is the remote shutter port. Ugh.
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Jun 16, 2014 20:18
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Drewski posted:Is the GPS always on or something? This. Make sure to turn it off manually as switching the camera off does not actually affect it. If I recall correctly, you should be able to tell if the GPS is on even when the camera is off by the display on top.
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Jun 16, 2014 22:01
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edit:wrong button
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Jun 16, 2014 23:11
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I picked up a nearly brand new 60D on a craigslist firesale. Looking to get a small, fast, prime for street shoots in low light and other general purpose stuff. Is the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 still considered the best option? I've read that the quality control is questionable. I also wanna grab a Tokina 11-16 F2.8 for wide angle shots. Anybody here have experience with this lens?
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Jun 17, 2014 06:00
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BULBASAUR posted:I picked up a nearly brand new 60D on a craigslist firesale. Looking to get a small, fast, prime for street shoots in low light and other general purpose stuff. Is the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 still considered the best option? I've read that the quality control is questionable. There's a newer Sigma 30, and while it's really good it's hardly "small" or "light." The hotness for THOSE traits is the pancake Canon 40 mm f/2.8. Small, light, sharp, good colors, able to be found under $150 if you look.
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Jun 17, 2014 06:03
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Drewski posted:So I've noticed that my refurb 6D drains my battery even when turned off. Is this normal? I'll charge a battery to full, shoot maybe 200-300 pictures with it, then leave it a few days and the battery's done. Is the GPS always on or something? Or is there a defect in my refurb? It seems like it does when GPS is on. I have been using my 6D since February and it hasn't been draining while leaving it dormant (with the switch on or off). I just turned it on for the first time about 4 days ago. When I last left it 2 days ago, the battery was 3/4 full. I just took a look at it and now I'm at 1 bar. The manual on off switch was set to off. I also just noticed that with the manual switch set to off, the GPS icon is lit up on the top LCD. That makes me think that yes, it has to be the GPS draining it. This makes sense, since I assume that takes time to acquire the satellites and the camera wants to be locked on and ready to go for the next photo.
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Jun 17, 2014 06:25
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Yeah it totes makes sense to keep your GPS lock for days on end, in the even you might want a GPS tag 20 hours after shutting it off. Instead of you know, taking pictures 20 hours after that.
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Jun 17, 2014 10:26
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I have GPS off on my 6D; I can leave the camera in the "on" position for weeks, and still have battery left.
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Jun 17, 2014 11:04
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BULBASAUR posted:I picked up a nearly brand new 60D on a craigslist firesale. Looking to get a small, fast, prime for street shoots in low light and other general purpose stuff. Is the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 still considered the best option? I've read that the quality control is questionable. I borrowed my friends a77 with the tokina 11-16 as a backup body for a downhill skateboarding competition. I was incredibly impressed by it. It is fast, crisp, and really affordable. If you're running a crop sensor, it's really the best option.
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Jun 17, 2014 16:41
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So on Friday I'm going some shooting at a bike polo event. It's my first time shooting some action stuff, along with some portraits. I don't have a ton of gear, here's what I have right now: t3i w/ 18-55 kit lens 5d mk1 w/ 50mm & 40mm lenses What's my best bet for this? Does the t3i have better AF for action, or the 5D classic?
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Jun 17, 2014 17:11
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You're in a tight spot. For now, I'd say the T3i with the 40mm... Really though, neither of those bodies has particularly excellent AF or burst rate and worse yet you aren't using any USM lenses so even if you had faster AF from the body you wouldn't be able to make the most of it. Honestly, try to find a used 28-135mm IS USM or Tamron 70-300mm on the cheap off craigslist or something. You'd be able to use them on both bodies and the extra reach can't hurt.
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Jun 17, 2014 18:11
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Thanks! Yeah, shooting action isn't necessarily something I want to make a career out of, it just happens that someone needs some help this one time. Wouldn't hurt to get a solid action lens, but for now my interest is in portraits so that's what I've been sticking with.
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Jun 17, 2014 18:45
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Since we're on the subject, which lens would be best suited for portaits out of 24-105L, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 (or 400/5.6L  ).I could probably test, but I'd like to see some opinions  I may be able to borrow one of the 70-200s, too; I think 4L IS dorkanoid fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 19:52
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dorkanoid posted:Since we're on the subject, which lens would be best suited for portaits out of 24-105L, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 (or 400/5.6L If you're talking strictly portraits, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 and the 70-200 are perfectly fine. On crop, a 50 would be about the equivalent of the 85. The 24-105L is more of an all-purpose zoom, but you can still get pretty good portraits at 105 albeit the 85 and 100 would be better.
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Jun 17, 2014 20:02
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theloafingone posted:If you're talking strictly portraits, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 and the 70-200 are perfectly fine. On crop, a 50 would be about the equivalent of the 85. I own/can borrow those lenses, hence the rather specific question - this is on the 6D, so it's full frame, though as I take it, the main reason to use a longer lens is to give the subject more pleasing proportions.
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Jun 17, 2014 20:09
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So I'm wondering, with this talk of portraits and crop sensors: the sensor size has no effect on the compression effect of a longer focal length, right? When people say that a 'On crop, a 50 would be about the equivalent of the 85." they're only meaning in terms of how wide of a field of view you will get on the sensor itself, right?
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Jun 17, 2014 20:21
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Exactly. It's called crop factor: you basically crop whatever sensor you have out of the image circle.
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Jun 17, 2014 20:28
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evil_bunnY posted:Exactly. It's called crop factor: you basically crop whatever sensor you have out of the image circle. Ok, thanks. I don't understand much about optics or light physics, which lead me to think I might have a misconception about it.
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Jun 17, 2014 21:42
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Seamonster posted:You're in a tight spot. For now, I'd say the T3i with the 40mm... I found the Canon EF 70-300MM F4-5.6 IS USM for $200 off. Just curious, is there much difference between it and the Tamron?
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Jun 17, 2014 21:46
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:So I'm wondering, with this talk of portraits and crop sensors: the sensor size has no effect on the compression effect of a longer focal length, right? When people say that a 'On crop, a 50 would be about the equivalent of the 85." they're only meaning in terms of how wide of a field of view you will get on the sensor itself, right? Sensor size and focal length determine field of view (assuming the lens covers). Yeah, all people are talking about when they're comparing crop/FF is field of view, unless otherwise specified. If people are talking about depth-of-field equivalence, they'll say so. Smaller sensors will have deeper depth of field (for a given focal length), but compression is a function of distance from your subject, not the lens itself. What narrower field of view buys you is the ability to stand further away from your subject and fill the frame, if you take a picture from a certain distance with a 70-200 and a 24mm you will have the same compression effect, the person is just going to be much smaller in the picture with the 24mm. If you cropped it back down to the same FoV the subject would look the same (ignoring distortion, etc). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 22:02
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triplexpac posted:I found the Canon EF 70-300MM F4-5.6 IS USM for $200 off. Just curious, is there much difference between it and the Tamron? According to TDP: Tamron +: -Proper USM (albeit not as fast as proper Canon USM) -Full Time Manual -Front element doesn't rotate during focus -Less Flare -Less distortion at both ends of the zoom -Comes with hood -6 Year Warranty Canon +: -Lighter (24.2oz vs 28.8oz assuming hood) -Better AF Accuracy (I personally did not have AF accuracy issues with my copy, but I didn't exactly have both to compare) -Less vignetting -Less pincushion distortion through 200mm The Tamron had a really nice build quality to it but, as mentioned above, I've never owned the Canon version.
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Jun 17, 2014 22:06
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I've seen some goons post here recently that they've jumped from a crop-sensor Canon to the 6D. Do any of you have issues the max shutter speed or the flash sync speed on the 6D? I'd be coming from a 60D. I'm not sure how often I hit 1/8000sec, but I wonder about e.g. shooting macro with a flash and not being able to stop motion if the wind blows and the flower/bug starts moving around. Most of my lenses are EF already.
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Jun 18, 2014 05:28
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Just got a 70-300L, why doesn't it come with a tripod ring, and why the hell does the ring itself cost like $200?
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Jun 18, 2014 14:20
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I've seen some goons post here recently that they've jumped from a crop-sensor Canon to the 6D. Do any of you have issues the max shutter speed or the flash sync speed on the 6D? I'd be coming from a 60D. I'm not sure how often I hit 1/8000sec, but I wonder about e.g. shooting macro with a flash and not being able to stop motion if the wind blows and the flower/bug starts moving around. 1/4000 will still stop motion pretty well, but it won't stop a sunny day shooting at f/1.2. ND filter fixes that. I'm a focus-and-recompose sort of photographer. The 6D's center cross point is more light sensitive (-3ev) than the 5D3's center point (-2ev). For me price didn't matter - the 6D is a better camera to me. It's smaller and lighter. The largest consideration for me was the lower megapixels and hence less noise in low light. Add the GPS and Wifi and I think the 6D is a better camera. The one thing the 5D3 can do that I wish the 6D could is the dual card slots. The 6D has a faster SD card read/write speed though. The 5D3's SD card slot is a low speed one, great for a backup though.
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Jun 18, 2014 14:33
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I've seen some goons post here recently that they've jumped from a crop-sensor Canon to the 6D. Do any of you have issues the max shutter speed or the flash sync speed on the 6D? I'd be coming from a 60D. I'm not sure how often I hit 1/8000sec, but I wonder about e.g. shooting macro with a flash and not being able to stop motion if the wind blows and the flower/bug starts moving around. Are you thinking about max x-sync speed on full frames using wireless triggers(1/200th), or high speed sync using E-TTL (almost any shutter speed) or a combination of the two?
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Jun 18, 2014 14:49
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mrlego posted:Are you thinking about max x-sync speed on full frames using wireless triggers(1/200th), or high speed sync using E-TTL (almost any shutter speed) or a combination of the two? I guess the wireless trigger? Specs show 1/180 for the 6D, which seems significantly lower than the 1/250 on the 60D. Probably not a big deal but I just wondered if it was actually something to worry about. The AF on the 5d3 would be nice since I shoot a lot of wildlife, but I'm used to using the center point so it's not a necessity. Plus I'll probably want to shell out for something longer than 300mm...
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Jun 18, 2014 16:40
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Seamonster posted:You're in a tight spot. For now, I'd say the T3i with the 40mm... OK last question I promise. I just want to be sure I'm buying the right Tamron 70-300. Is this one the one to get? https://www.downtowncamera.com/zoom-lenses/tamron-sp-70-300mm-f4-56-di-vc-usd-canon-eos
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Jun 18, 2014 16:42
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I guess the wireless trigger? Specs show 1/180 for the 6D, which seems significantly lower than the 1/250 on the 60D. Probably not a big deal but I just wondered if it was actually something to worry about. The AF on the 5d3 would be nice since I shoot a lot of wildlife, but I'm used to using the center point so it's not a necessity. Plus I'll probably want to shell out for something longer than 300mm... Max sync is really only relevant for what you can do vis a vis daylight fill flash. If you are taking indoor photos and using the flash to light the scene primarily, you could shoot at 1/20th and not have an issue with stopping motion - the flash pop itself is thousandths of a second, so it will stop motion for you if it's your only/vastly dominant light. Having a higher sync speed just means when you use daylight fill, you'll have further to go before having to activate HSS. In this case, 2/3 stop more headroom.
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Jun 18, 2014 17:12
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triplexpac posted:OK last question I promise. I just want to be sure I'm buying the right Tamron 70-300. Is this one the one to get? Yes, that is the correct one.
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Jun 18, 2014 17:58
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It's surprising how little of a difference there is from 200-300mm, but I guess field of view as a function of focal length goes as an arc tangent.
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Jun 21, 2014 02:49
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Just bought a 70D and need to get some spare batteries for it. I had 4 Sterlingtek ones for my 450D that I was happy with but they now fulfil through Amazon and won't ship to Canada. What are my other options?
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Jun 21, 2014 17:56
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If you were looking for either a 40mm f/2.8 or 50mm f/1.4, I'm selling them in the BST thread! (Below KEH prices!)
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Jun 21, 2014 21:29
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